Discovering Zambia - (Discovering: warm hospitality, and tsetse flies, and wilddogs, and 44-7degree temps, and leopards, and film crews)

[Scooter]

After chatting  with an on-line friend quite a bit,  (okay,  maybe it's not chatting,  so much as me grilling the poor gal with questions)  and then having a zoom call with Expert Africa,    I am quite convinced I might be in love with Zambia,  before even arriving there.     I have 20 camps I'd like to see.      (Okay,   THAT may not be practical.)           I'd like to walk.    And not short paddles around a little clearing.     I want to REALLY experience a walking safari.    5 days before my departure from Canada,   EA emails to tell me of the "heat wave" they are experiencing.    And perhaps it's an idea to take rehydrating salts.    (thank you EA,  that was an amazing save)

 

October/23

Calgary - Amsterdam - Joberg.        (overnight at JNB airport)

Joberg - Lusaka.       Lusaka - Mfuwe.         Evening drive to Tafika (just in time for dinner)

 

(3)nts Tafika

(1)nt Chikoko

(1)nt Big Lagoon

(2)nts Mwaleshi

(3)nts Takwela

(2)nts Nsefu

(2)nts Nkwali

 

Now.......this is not like me.    It is far too much bouncing around if it were in Botswana.     But for the walking camps,    I leave my main duffel with Tafika - and take only a backpack.    And we are walking between the SLNP camps.    7 different camps in 14 nights seems like insanity,    but it was fabulous.    

 

How exciting to be back on the African continent.     All flights go smoothly.    Luggage arrives.     Tours Africa has an air-conditioned "lounge" for me at LusakaAirport where I have wi-fi,  and can tell everyone back home that I made it safely.        At Mfuwe,   I am met by Bo,   and I am the only transfer to Tafika tonight.    I try hard to stay awake for the entire drive,  biting my lips,   and shaking my head.          We arrive in time,  for me to have a restroom break,   and head for dinner.   Nick will give me a short room tour at retirement.......a full "orientation" is more scheduled for the next day,   given the late hour.    Fabulous location - I am the closest to the common area.      Nick says:    "There may be one or two bats."     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 9 by Scooter

[Scooter]

Good Morning TAFIKA!!     Wow.    3 days to get here,   and the morning view is worth every minute.   

 

 

I am introduced to my guide for the next 5 nights.     Oh!   And I have his guiding and vehicle all to my self.    (EEK!!).   His name is Stephen Banda,   and he is to date,  the best guide I've had.     The Luangwa Valley,   is beautiful.    I am loving the personal attention,   and the camp,    and the food,    and the amazing surrounds.     (Oh......and there are about 30-50 bats at my place.    Good thing I am not squeamish)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am introduced to the resident dog pack.   (the Milyoti pack).    And it is quickly apparent,   that they have one "special" pup.     This pup is quite a bit smaller than the rest of the puppies.    And she keeps taking off.     At odd times.   By herself.   They try to assign a "baby-sitter" while the adults of the pack go hunting.     But she breaks free daily.     And gets lost daily.     And calls for the pack once she realizes she is vulnerable (daily).       I learn quite a bit about the dog pack in the next 2 nights I am there.     This little "special one" has a nickname....Chazingwa.     (the local name for "one with troubles").     One evening game drive......we are with the pack,    who are clearly missing her,   and calling.     Calling.     And calling.        The little pup,   is over a km away,   and cannot hear the calls.    She is calling too.        (We all piece this story together at dinner,    as Nick was with the puppy,   and Stephen and I were with the pack,    and we all had video to share with each other).         They eventually met up.     What an amazing reunion!!    I am elated.        But then,    I find out,    this is a daily thing.        How this little pup,    has made it to her age is impossible to guess.    She has thwarted the inevitable for many months.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Scooter]

I am just loving everything.      The camp.     The exclusivity.     The solo vehicle and amazing guide.    The owners,   the fellow safari-goers.       Just one little itty-bitty grievance..... the  tsetse fly.    Ouch!!   Little heathens!    They hurt!     But they are also blistering on my skin.    And that blister pops,   and congeals,    and then splits,   and then swells.    Certainly,   every little bite,   is not healing,    before a new bite emerges.    I've brought many creams,  and antihistamines though,    so I'm sure this is temporary.

 

There is a beautiful bull elephant who loves camp each day,   and the water by the hide.    He has a torn ear,   and semi-terrorizes the staff and guests alike.

 

 

\

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

That's a whole lot going on, based on your title.  Your photos actually convey a hot environment.  I think I need the rehydrating salts just looking at them.  Excellent item to pack and it may have saved the trip.  No fun being dehydrated and I speak/write from experience.  Looking forward to the report, even if it does not contain 20 camps.

 

I thought I had posted the above a few days ago.  Came back to comment again and there it was.  Oh well.

 

Such drama with the one little pup.  Did you encounter her again?

 

 

[Scooter]

14 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

That's a whole lot going on, based on your title.  Your photos actually convey a hot environment.  I think I need the rehydrating salts just looking at them.  Excellent item to pack and it may have saved the trip.  No fun being dehydrated and I speak/write from experience.  Looking forward to the report, even if it does not contain 20 camps.

 

Such drama with the one little pup.  Did you encounter her again?

 

 

It definitely became a crucial item!!   

 

Yes!!    I will get to that a bit later,   but the pack moved  further South during the time I was at walking camps - so I was able to follow them from Nsefu camp later on.

Edited October 2 by Scooter

[Scooter]

On my last evening,   prior to setting out to the walking camps (and I now learn Stephen will be my guide there too!),    we are looking for a good sundowner spot.      You know,    when baboons fight amongst themselves?    There is a lot of noise,   and turmoil.    And we had seen a lot of it.       But this was different.       Our spotter yells "leopard!!"      And indeed,    there is a leopard racing in front of us,  followed by an agitated baboon troop.    She dips into "her trench".     They do not follow,    but rather,   they stand and "scold" her relentlessly.     We creep closer to get a peek.     She is breathing heavily,   and has a bit of blood on her.    We try to piece together what we have just witnessed.

 

 

Well now I'm excited!!!!      There is a terribly injured baboon who is trying to get away.     The troop obviously came to her rescue,    but I don't think she can keep up now,   or climb a tree for the night.    But our leopardess.......is very winded from the ordeal.     She will need many minutes to recover.     Sundowner spot????    How about right here!!!!!     We tuck around a corner,   grab a G&T "to go" for me,   and head back to "watch the show".       Bonus:    we are the only truck for miles.     We have this all to ourselves.    And it has been tough,   getting exclusive great leopard sightings.     For the most part,   there are film crews who haven't let us in on the "good stuff".      So this rather feels like a "headline scoop".    

[Scooter]

 

 

Ummmmmmm............Stephen??      Look to the left.      How many buffalo do you figure are there??     (they keep coming,   and coming.     Directly toward us).    We are soon going  to be surrounded by the herd.     They aren't running by any means.......they are approaching slowly,   eating,  and walking.     But they just keep coming and coming.      We are trying to keep an eye on the injured baboon,    and Olimba,  who is still catching her breath.    But the buffalo are headed directly for the area of the injured baboon.     

[JimS]

This is great... I’m enjoying reading as I do my own reminiscing. In fact, I’d been thinking before my own trip how I’d not seen any trip reports including Big Lagoon yet. I’ll look forward to reading your views on that and Chikoko.

 

Already it appears you had some great encounters at Tafika. I remember the bats!

[Scooter]

Stephen says:    "  I am not nearly as concerned with the buffalo herd...........as I am with that agitated male elephant behind you.      Look,   but do so,   slowly".        

 

 

Stephen,.......he doesn't look that agitated to me!!    He is young!  And cute!!       Welllll.........he IS agitated.     We are on HIS road.      Everyone is silent.     We are too close to start the truck and try to leave.    We wait,   and see what he will do.      Currently,   we have Olimba in a trench at my 2:30.     An injured (but abandoned by her troop) baboon at 12:00.       A massive herd of buffalo (no one really knows how many) at my 11o'clock.      And an agigated elle at my 8o'clock.    

 

 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

The plot thickens, 'round the clock!

 

[wilddog]

I love the way you express your excitment/anxiety.....;  elements that are not always expressed in TR's,  but are so very real. 

 

You are carrying me along very nicely. Thank you.

[Peter Connan]

Wowee! What an experience!

 

Can't wait to hear how this panned out. And you had me at 14 days of walking. Not many people are up for that.

[Miss Biscuit]

Oh this is very exciting! The anticipation is building.

[Scooter]

My new boyfriend the elephant,    would pass astern,    we would breathe a sigh of relief..........but this ellie was very curious,     and he would circle  back,    all the while trying to catch our scent.     It was fascinating to me,    (though heart pounding.).      We would relax a bit,   and then,   "uh oh.....look who it is again".     

 

The "problem" of the elephant was fixed,    once the buffalo herd got much closer.       But,    it also scared Olimba out of her trench.    And the baboon was now somewhere hiding amongst many,   many hooves.      With the elephant on his way,   we were able to move the truck now,   to a better position.      Light was too dim for good photos,   but I took them anyhow,    because I just wanted to remember and reminisce.       It is too bad I couldn't have grabbed any kind of photo with everything in frame.    3 of the big 5 in one sighting,    and I was just elated!     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Early to bed tonight,    as I want to re-pack for Chikoko and Big Lagoon.    There is zero sense in taking my duffel for just 2 nights.    I can store the main duffel in the office with Vel,   and they will bring me my bag to the airstrip for the further trip to NLNP.         

 

Back pack,   set of clothes on. 2 other sets.    Minimal meds.   Toothbrush.    Water bottle & special sling with zip compartment for phone.  Book.  Binoculars.  Torch.  Camera kit.       

And then I wonder........WHY do I bring anything else,  really??    It was amazing what I could fit into a backpack.    I looked at the rest of the clothes in my duffel that I'd be leaving,   with a renewed vow to choose much less on the next trip.        (Please hold me to account this November)  

[Scooter]

We drive in the morning,   to the canoe crossing.     Not quite as "tippy" as a Canadian canoe,   but nonetheless daunting with the crocodiles and hippos about.      It was such a strange feeling to me,   and one I didn't expect,    to feel so vulnerable without a vehicle on the other side of the river.    We follow along the river on foot.    Again,   such a feeling of vulnerability.    I am the only safari-goer,   but I certainly feel "encapsulated.    I have Bright as a ranger in front,    followed by my guide Stephen,    then me,     then the porter for my luggage (he smiled and said,  "is this it???! - very glad),   and then our "tea bearer".    (which is a strange title,   being that he carried a lot more than tea.    He carried the fire making tools,   and kettle.    But he also carried litres and litres of water for us all,   and snacks,   and the first aid kit,    and bug sprays.    He was with me for 2 days as well,   and I learned so much from him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not 15 minutes walk,  and we  stop to check out a mixed herd of puku/impala on the "beaches" of the river with our binoculars.     And what do we see???     LIONS!!    STALKING!!!   This is fabulous!!   We are up on  an embankment,   and so I feel quite safe (maybe "quite" isn't the perfect word - but I am certainly not terrified).     This gets the heart pumping.    How amazing.      I am hoping we stay a bit,   and watch them hunt.        But,   they are on the move we see.......they are tracking around to approach them from behind.       Stephen says,    "Let's go and intercept them!"           

 

Umm.......whatt???   

 

We go a bit,   until Bright sees them.    We halt,   and I take very specific instructions.      Shoulder to shoulder.    If the line moves forward,   I'm to do so too.    If it moves back,   I'm to do so too.     Everything in slo-mo.      Stephen reminds me,     No Running!    Right??   

 

My heart is just pounding.     I have zero desire to run (thank goodness - I've read that book lol).     I am just transfixed on that lioness!    But I also know there are 5 others somewhere.    And they're hungry and hunting.      But I look over at my guide and the ranger.......and they are smiling,   and quite at ease.    And I take my cue from them.   They are behaving as though they've seen this pride many,   many times,  and know their behaviour.     (and later on at tea time,   I find this is true)

 

I do not have a good photo of this,   as all I had available was my iphone.    (I guess I could have asked my porter to take my camera sling off his back - but honestly,   it seemed irrelevant in the moment).       A bead of sweat starts at my shoulder blades and I can feel it.    It feels somewhere between an itch and a tickle as it finds its way slowly down my back - and I'm just too paralyzed to do anything about it.     And in this moment,    I think:    Experienced walking safari enthusiasts would be having a chuckle at my fear.    My boyfriend would be cranky I've put myself in this situation.     But my brother would smile,   and say "Atta Girl!!"           I'm with my brother on this one.    I give myself a pat on the back when the lions one by one file off.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrive at camp,   and I am shown my room.    Wow,   wow,   wow.    Lunch,   down-time,   tea,    another walk,   dinner.      Such a full and incredible day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Julian]

Great report and photos so far.
However not sure why it’s posted in Historical Reports, as you went in October 2023.
until fairly recently all the historical reports  were from 10 years ago or much longer. 

I would assume any reports from trips in the last 5 years would be considered as current and very relevant to anyone considering travelling to those locations / camps?
I now have 3 reports outstanding from 2022, 2023 and 2024, but I intand to post them all in the main country sections of trip reports as I feel they would be highly relevant now for anyone considering going to those places in the next couple of years.

Edited October 9 by Julian

[wilddog]

@ScooterI think @Julianhas a point. Your report is still helpful and relevant for potential visitors to Zambia. 

 

I can easily move it to the main Zambia TR forum as long as you are agreeable @Scooter. Just let me know.

 

Don't worry Julian.... you can do catch up when you are ready and, as you say, in the main country forums. 🙂

[Scooter]

@Julianand @wilddog,    perhaps the opening paragraph of this report needs some editing then too!    (I assumed my other trip reports being 2019,  and 2021 were posted in the wrong spot - but turns out I was wrong on being wrong!).      Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.   I will know for the future.

 

@wilddog,   if you are easily able to move the report,    I am completely agreeable.   

[wilddog]

@ScooterMoved as agreed. 

If you want to edit the title press and hold on title.

[Scooter]

For the walking portion of this safari (7 nights out of 14),   I choose to put away the big camera.   After the fabulous encounter on the first day,   I decided I wanted to "live in the moment" as it were.   I took a small,  light "string" pack with tissues,   lip balm,  sunscreen,   an additional buff,   and the rehydration salts.    Over my shoulder was a water bottle sling I purchased from Amazon.   Quite a rugged one - with a zip for my iphone,  and clips for my flashlight.    Around my neck,   my binos.   And even though my binoculars are mid-sized and not large by any measure (8 x 32's),    I still struggled with how heavy they became around the neck.    Thank goodness they are small enough to rest on my shoulder (which was where they were unless I was looking through them).     Mental note:    harness for the next walking safari.      (see how I keep doing that??   Creating "next itineraries"??)

 

 

A one night stop is not something I'd usually enjoy,    but this felt different.    It felt truly like a "journey",    and I had  the small pack,   and just enough clothes,   and I would be reunited with the rest of my clothing at the airstrip anyhow.     Time to say good-by,   and walk the onward journey to Big Lagoon.

 

 

Okay......I'm in love

 

 

(looking into the "en-suite")

(see these "baby-gate" things at the side?    they cover the front "window" at night)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is here that I meet my travel companion for the next bit.    Another solo traveller - from the UK.    A much more experienced safari-goer than I,    and I truly enjoyed his quiet company.        

 

I usually nap in the afternoon "down-time",     but I had a strange notion......that maybe my bag wouldn't be at the airstrip tomorrow.    And I'd be right out of clothes.    So,   I set out washing just one set of long bottoms,   and my lightest weight fly-fishing shirt.     (and smalls,   as you do anyhow).     This was a bit of an experiment.    I had no idea how long they might take to dry.    Out in the sun,    probably seconds.    But there are yellow baboons watching my every move through the "en-suite" window.    I'm not entirely convinced my clothes will be safe to dry inside either lol.      And then the elephants saunter down for a drink.      So out comes the big camera.      No nap today!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This "journey" of mine,   was transformative.     Flexing some "muscles" against fear.    I am not a squeamish gal - bugs and such do not bother me.     But I live and grew up in a "land of no snakes" (aside from the odd harmless garter).     The "baby gates" do very little to help me muster courage for the night.     

 

But the mosquito nets DO.     I am very pleased to see,    that they have a weighted "hem",    and drag quite a bit.    And the overlap is huge.   (quite comical to see me trying to exit in the am).   They are heavy,  and high quality.      There is nothing getting in there.    No lizard,  no bugs,   no snakes.       A quick flashlight check under the bed.     All good.      I take one bed,   and lay my next-day's clothing out on the other.          What about leopards?  The mosquito nets offer little protection.  Oh right.....the baby gates.             

Gosh Girl!!  Rewind your thoughts!   Remember 30 seconds ago when you felt good?       I settle in with my book on my ipad.      Sleep comes.    I wake up feeling like Wonder Woman.       Well.......maybe not quite as superhero as that.     But I do feel quite accomplished facing my fears head-on.     

 

My flashlight becomes SO important to me.     Everything gets a sweep of light.     This kind of safari,   has me using my senses constantly.     "Skating with my  head up".    It is the most completely immersive experience I've ever had.      And we are just starting.      But I've some new-found courage and rehydrating salts.   

Edited Thursday at 04:38 PM by Scooter

[marg]

Very much enjoying your report!  Thanks!

[AKR1]

Ditto. Am also following your adventures and enjoying your report. Your writing is both humorous and insightful.
Thanks for sharing this. 

[Biko]

great fun to read your report, you seem a tough cookie to me.

[Scooter]

On 10/10/2024 at 12:27 PM, AKR1 said:

Ditto. Am also following your adventures and enjoying your report. Your writing is both humorous and insightful.
Thanks for sharing this. 

Thank you

[Scooter]

On 10/10/2024 at 1:24 PM, Biko said:

great fun to read your report, you seem a tough cookie to me.

Not so tough.      I am afraid of heights,   and now apparent,  I'm afraid of snakes.       But I am not afraid,   of poking a bit of fun at myself,   and so I hope the regulars here,   who can see the picture,   are able to laugh along with me at my fears,   and my attempt at overcoming them.    I hope my experiences put to written word,   help others overcome any hesitancy to come to Zambia.     

Edited Sunday at 11:11 PM by Scooter