Ecuador and Galapagos 2016

[Petter Sverke]

Thought I might start with yet another trip report from quite some years ago and this time to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands in May of 2016.

 

Traveling from Stockholm via Amsterdam we landed in Quito where we would stay 2 nights.
The first day we just went out for dinner but on the next day we had booked a tour around the city and which was really worth doing as this is such a unique city.

Situated in the Andes the city is located in a valley on the slope of an active volcano.

Later that day we had dinner at a traditional Ecuadorian restaurant which was very good.

 

The next day we were gonna catch a flight to the town of Coca which is a gateway to the Ecuadorian Amazon.

Unfortunately the flight was delayed due to a storm and we had to have several hours before it finally was time to go.

The flight was under one hour and upon arrival we were greeted by staff from the Napo Wildlife Center where we were going to stay for the next 3 nights.

The get to the lodge we had to first travel for around 2 hours on a motorized canoe along the Napo river before entering the Yasuní National Park where we would switch to a paddle canoe.

The journey via a narrow creek from here to the lodge took another couple of hours with the last part of the journey being in pitch black with only flashlights to guide us due to our late arrival because of the flight delay.
As the creek gave way to a lake we finally arrived at the lodge and had dinner before it was time for bed.

 

The next morning was an early one as we where going to start our excursion at 6am.
We were woken up as every morning by the deep calls of the howler monkeys serenading through the forest.

Before breakfast we headed up an observation tower within the lodge with views of the morning mist rising above the surrounding forest.

After breakfast our guide alerted us that a couple of Golden-mantled tamarins had been spotted next to the lodge.
These primates are unique to this part of the Amazon and we watched them for quite some time before it was time to enter the canoes.
Paddling down the lake and the small creeks around the lodge we encountered a troop of Ecuadorian squirrel monkeys jumping from branch to branch above our heads.
We also managed to find the Colombian red howler monkeys that had awaken us this morning.
After paddling around for a while we stopped at the banks of one creek and continued on foot.

We came across a Yellow-footed tortoise before our guide showed us a Bullet ant nest and advised us not to get to close and I started to understand why it was mandatory for us to wear rubber boots here.
After trekking along we suddenly heard some rumble in the trees high above. It was a couple of White-bellied spider monkeys swinging from tree to tree and we managed to get a short but good glimpse of them.

We then paddled back to the lodge for lunch.

After lunch we were going to make an effort to see the Giant otters that are found here but we had no such luck. We paddled onto the lake and was met by a large Black caiman swimming alongside our canoe. They are the largest reptiles in the Americas and the most beautiful crocodilian species in the world in my opinion at least.

We also encountered a couple of Hoatzins. This primitive-looking bird proved to be so common here that by the end of our stay here you were almost (with the emphasis on almost) tired of seeing them.
A Snail kite was also ever present next to the lake always on the lookout.

After encountering yet another Black caiman we came across a couple of Spix's night monkeys looking out as us from the hole of a tree. These nocturnal primates sleep in tree holes all day giving them the nickname Owl monkeys but they did peek out to take a look at us.
We then spotted a Linnaeus's two-toed sloth high above but it had it's back to us and and we didn't get a great look.
After leaving the canoe behind we went for another walk to a canopy tower 36 meters up. On the way to the top a couple of squirrel monkeys came by really close.
After reaching the top we realized that an Amazon tree boa was resting on the platform and as we got a little bit closer to get a look it strike out against our guide before quickly slithering away and onto the branches of the surrounding tree.

The view from the tower was breathtaking and we spent maybe half an hour there taking in all the sights and sounds of the Amazon rainforest.

We then headed back to the lodge for dinner before it was time for a night walk.
After getting our flashlights we set out on a trail at the back of the lodge. There was lots of tarantulas and frogs about, including a Smoky jungle frog.
We also encountered a Blunthead tree snake among the branches.

We got back from the lodge and we went straight to bed as a fantastic first full day in the Amazon had finished and another early morning awaited.

 

To be continued...

 

Yasuní National Park

Golden-mantled tamarin

Hoatzin

Black caiman

Ecuadorian squirrel monkey

Edited September 7 by Petter Sverke

[JimS]

Looking forward to reading more - Galapagos is somewhere I'd really like to visit in the next few years

[Atravelynn]

Exciting destinations.  Hoatzins help kick this report off.

[Petter Sverke]

The next day we were going to visit the Napo Cultural Center. Just as the Napo Wildlife Center it is owned and managed by the Kichwa Añangu community.
To get there we had to paddle all the way back up the creek and switch to the motorized canoe and back onto the Napo river.
When we arrived we were shown their traditional way of living and enjoyed the music and dance and the arts and crafts of the women of the community.
We also got to visit the local school.
We also had lunch there which consisted of fish from the Napo river followed by grilled beetle grubs which were actually not that bad.

After lunch we took the motorized canoe back to the entrance of the creek and then continued on foot to a clay lick in the forest were we saw high numbers of Cobalt-winged parakeet getting minerals from the clay lick. These minerals help them neutralize the toxins in their diet.

Subsequently we went back to our paddle canoe and travelled back through the creek towards the lodge.
Along the way our guide suddenly alerted us that he had spotted a juvenile Green anaconda. I don't know how he spotted it as it was lying among lots of vegetation and we could only see parts of it. It can't have been more than 1 and a half to 2 meters long so the guide concluded that it probably was somewhere between 1 and 2 years old.

Unfortunately as it was so well hidden it was impossible to get a decent photograph of it.

Back at the lodge we had the rest of the day off to relax as we the next day was going to travel back to Quito.

 

After another early morning followed by paddling up the creek once again and onto the motorized canoe and back to Coca we eventually took a flight back to Quito were we would stay one night and the same hotel as before. We went out for dinner but then went to bed quite early as the next morning we were finally gonna fly out to the Galapagos Islands.

 

Clay lick - Cobalt-winged parakeets

Edited September 8 by Petter Sverke

[Petter Sverke]

The next morning we flew out from Quito via Guayaquil to San Cristóbal Island, the easternmost island of the Galapagos.
We were then taken from the airport down to the dock were we would wait for our small but comfortable cruise vessel the Cachalote (now renovated and rebranded Cachalote Explorer).

Already here we were greeted by the fearless wildlife of this island chain as Galapagos sea lions and Brown pelicans were present all around.
We were then picked up by the zodiac and taken out to the Cachalote.
After greeting everyone on the boat and loading our stuff off at our room it was time to get back to land were we would take a bus up to the highlands and El Junco Lagoon which is a lake formed by the collapsed caldera of a volcano and is one of very few freshwaters reservoir in the Galapagos.

We took a walk around it which offered great views of the surrounding island as well as the lake itself.
After getting back down the highlands we had a quick stroll around buying postcards which we would later use before we got back to the ship to have dinner and went to bed.
 

The next day we were going to explore Española Island, the southernmost island of the archipelago.
After breakfast and a presentation of the day ahead we took the zodiacs out to Gardner Bay which is a beach occupied by lots of Galapagos sea lion lazing on the beach with a few Hood mockingbirds scurrying around.

We later went back to the boat to prepare for our first snorkeling.

After getting in the zodiacs once again we made our way out and headed in the water were we encountered Galapagos sea lions, Galapagos green turtles, Whitetip reef sharks, rays and fishes. 

The water is colder then you would expect at the equator due to all the currents that meet up here but it is also thanks to these currents that the marine life here is so rich. 

After snorkeling for around half an hour we made our way back to the boat.
Later that afternoon we took the zodiacs out to Punta Suarez were we encountered lots of Marine iguanas (the subspecies found here have bright color combinations especially during the mating season). Sally lightfoot crabs scuttling around among the rocks. Galapagos sea lions with suckling pups. And lots of seabirds including the magnificent Waved albatross. We also saw a Galapagos hawk soaring through the sky looking for prey. As we walked around the cliffs here we also came across a blowhole where water shoots up 23 meters in the air.
As the sun settled it was time for us to get back to the boat for dinner and sleep as our first full day in the Galapagos had come to an end.

 

Nazca booby

Waved albatross

Galapagos hawk

Edited Saturday at 05:08 AM by Petter Sverke

[Atdahl]

Ah, your report from the NWC brings back great memories of our trip there in 2012.  Doesn't seem like a lot has changed which is good since the wildlife was fantastic.

[Petter Sverke]

The next day it was time to explore Floreana Island.
The morning excursion took us to Punta Cormorant which has a large inland lagoon.
As we made our way there in our zodiacs a Galapagos sea lion was seen resting at the side of a cliff. A couple of Blue-footed boobies also greeted us at our arrival.
We took a walk down to the lagoon were a few American flamingos could be seen.

We eventually made our way back to the boat and prepared for another snorkeling session.
We took the zodiacs out to Devil's Crown which is a what now remains of a ancient volcanic crater which has now eroded away and is one of the most famous snorkeling spots in the Galapagos.
Whitetip reef sharks are common here together with Galapagos green turtles and Galapagos sea lions amongst other things.
And I even had a Galapagos shark swim right up to me only switching direction a couple of metres in front of me.
Later it was time to head to the Post Office Bay were we would post our cards we had previously bought.
This historical post office was installed in the 18th century and is still used today.

 

The next morning started with a trip to Dragon Hill on Santa Cruz Island.
As we landed on the island we first encountered a Marine iguana. There was also a Lava heron here stalking the Sally lightfoot crabs amongst the rocks.
We made our way up the hill where we encountered the larger Galapagos land iguana and found several often resting among the cacti in this dry scrubland.
Later in the day we cruised from Santa Cruz Island to Santiago Island where we were going to spend our afternoon.
Traveling between the islands we had a couple of Common bottlenose dolphin riding our boat waves and jumping out of the water next us.
We arrived at Sullivan Bay were we took our zodiacs out and managed to spot a couple of Galapagos penguins on the rocks.

We then continued on foot on an old lava flow field with lots of pahoehoe formations and lava bubbles.

After walking around this interesting geological landscape it was time to get back on the boat for dinner and sleep as our boat were gonna have to travel all night to reach our next destination.

 

Blue-footed booby

American flamingo

Devil's crown

Marine iguana

Sally lightfoot crab

Galapagos land iguana

Edited September 8 by Petter Sverke

[Petter Sverke]

This morning we woke up to the sight of Genovesa Island.

After breakfast we took the zodiacs out along the cliffs to El Barranco (also known as Prince Philip's Steps) which is a 25-meter long stairway up the cliff that leads up to a extensive flat lava field where lots of seabirds are nesting.
We found Red-footed and Nazca boobies with the highlight being the Great frigatebird with the males displaying their inflated gular sac.

Getting back to the boat for lunch we later took the zodiacs out to Darwin Bay where more seabirds could be seen as we had a little walk around.
It was then time to get back on the boat for a little celebration as two other passengers had their birthday this day.
 

During the night our boat traveled all the way to Santa Cruz and in the morning we had our final excursion to Black Turtle Cove and took the zodiacs out cruising the lagoon where Whitetip reef sharks and different species of rays could be seen under the surface with the occasional Galapagos green turtle coming up for air with seabirds being abundant all around.
We went back to the boat to take farewell of everybody and headed for Baltra Island where we took a flight back to the mainland in Guayaquil where we connected with our flight home to Stockholm via Amsterdam.

 

Great frigatebird

Edited Saturday at 09:11 AM by Petter Sverke