My second trip to Botswana, Kwando, Chief's and first leopard sighting, 2011

[ElenaH]

7 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

The camp photos are as good as the wildlife, and more cute lion cubs, that are only outdone by the upside down bat.

Thank you, Lynn! Yes, the bat is also cute! And with lion cubs we had luck!

[ElenaH]

8 hours ago, Pangolin said:

Addendum - the fight happened in 2013, with both packs losing one or two adults.

Interesting! THank you for info. The packs met to fight somewhere around Duma Tau?

[Pangolin]

7 hours ago, ElenaH said:

Interesting! THank you for info. The packs met to fight somewhere around Duma Tau?

A description of the battle is here:

When Wild Dogs Go To War (grantatkinson.com)

[madaboutcheetah]

On 9/7/2024 at 1:38 PM, Alex The Lion said:

 

@PangolinLagoon has it's own dog packs that move in the area. If I remember at the time, the Selinda pack was a lighter and more sandy in colour. The lagoon dogs were a lot darker and had more black in their coat.

 

The Selinda dogs would move between the two concessions, though the Northern pack wouldn't.

 

@Alex The Lion- In 2013, the lagoon pack was taken over by 4 Orange coated males, after they killed the alpha male .... Subsequently, not only did the pack split - but, over the course of the following years the pack got more and more light coat/sandy colour ..... 

 

However, i do hear that the darker dogs are in and out of the area atm as there is a large pack up north in Muvumbi where there is just one road going up to the Namibian border with hardly any game vehicles going that way. 

[Alex The Lion]

6 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

 

@Alex The Lion- In 2013, the lagoon pack was taken over by 4 Orange coated males, after they killed the alpha male .... Subsequently, not only did the pack split - but, over the course of the following years the pack got more and more light coat/sandy colour ..... 

 

However, i do hear that the darker dogs are in and out of the area atm as there is a large pack up north in Muvumbi where there is just one road going up to the Namibian border with hardly any game vehicles going that way. 

 

Thanks @madaboutcheetah- Crazy to think I have not been to Kwando since November 2011.

 

I still think a fly camp further north should be built, would help break up your long drives!

[Peter Connan]

Magnificent sightings and photos as always Elena! Thank you.

[ElenaH]

On 9/10/2024 at 11:57 AM, Peter Connan said:

Magnificent sightings and photos as always Elena! Thank you.

Thank you, Peter!

[ElenaH]

17-19.09.2011 Kwando Tau Pan Camp

 

When planning my trip, I wanted to experience as many different areas as possible, and the Central Kalahari was one of the key regions on my list. We decided to stay at Kwando Tau Pan Camp. 

 

 

 

Drongo on the terrace of the room:

 

 

The camp is located near Tau Pan itself and has its own artificial waterhole, allowing you to watch animals coming to drink right from your room. 

 

 

 

The room was enormous, complete with a terrace and an outdoor shower. Since my first visit in 2011, I’ve returned several times, but what stands out most is that outdoor shower—it’s always been a favourite! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The main deck at the camp is also spacious and inviting. One evening, we were treated to an incredible performance of traditional singing and dancing, making for a memorable night.

 

 

 

 

 

The camp even had a telescope, perfect for stargazing. But there was another “star” I was reminded of— a brown hyena from the book Cry of the Kalahari, a timeless story that has always captured my imagination.

 

During our stay, we visited Deception Valley, the iconic location where Mark and Delia Owens spent seven years in the 1970s. I had read their book, and seeing this place in person was deeply significant to me.

 

Pale Chanting Goshawk as a welcome committee:

 

THis is the place of mark and Delia:

 

 

We stopped in camping site for a break.

 

 

Deception Pan

 

 

 

 

A "Jumbo" - Kori Bustard

 

A Big Boy:

 

 

 

Steenbok are used to be in a pair:

 

Our guide was Tati, who unfortunately left the company soon after, but we were lucky to have the legendary tracker Scooper with us. Scooper, who grew up in the Kalahari, was absolutely phenomenal. He spotted animals in places where I couldn’t see anything even if I was standing just five meters away. His skills were mesmerizing!

 

The wildlife here was different from what I’d seen elsewhere. I became familiar with springboks, oryx, and the amusing "helicopter bird" (the korhaan). 

 

Oryx family:

 

Sabota Lark (?)

 

Marico Flycatcher:

 

I still think that springbok is a very beautiful animal, one of my favourite antelopes:

 

 

Oryx:

 

 

 

 

During our day tour to Deception Valley, we encountered two young male lions on the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And we encountered one more pair of lions at Sunday Pan! This time male and female. And we were lucky enough to witness them mating.

 

 

 

Edited Saturday at 04:49 PM by ElenaH

[offshorebirder]

12 minutes ago, ElenaH said:

 

The bird I cannot identify:

 

Perhaps a Babbler species?   A couple of potential ones have pale eyes, but maybe your bird has its eye in a shadow.  Perhaps @Peter Connan has a better idea than I do.

 

The second bird - perhaps a Marico Flycatcher?

 

Great photos in your post - thanks for this trip report @ElenaH   Paying a visit to Deception Valley has been on my bucket list since I read Cry of the Kalahari.

[ElenaH]

19-20.09.2011 Tau Pan Camp

On our last morning, a lion came to the camp’s waterhole. 

 

We quickly hopped into a vehicle and followed him. 

 

His younger brother joined as well. 

 

 

 

 

He is a beauty! Isn't he?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It felt like a dream-like end to our Botswana adventure! We managed to capture some beautiful portraits of the lions, and it was this magical encounter that drew us back to Tau Pan in the years that followed.

 

Here are more pictures from Central Kalahari.

 

 

 

Pale Chanting Goshawk (a one who was in a Welcome Committee)

 

 

This one I know, of course, it is Bateleur:

 

Martial Eagle:

 

 

Kori again:

 

Spotted Thick-knee. Actually an interesting bird. Has big eyes 

 

 

 White-browed Sparrow-Weaver:

 

Kudu

 

Jackal:

 

Moody Oryx in Kalahari Landscape:

 

 

 

Springbok:

 

Lonely Gnu:

 

And humans by sundowner:

 

So was Tau Pan. Perhaps we see each other on those chairs one time? But the fire for Africa is definitely in everybody's heart!

 

 

                                                                                                  The End

Edited Saturday at 04:54 PM by ElenaH

[ElenaH]

11 minutes ago, offshorebirder said:

Perhaps a Babbler species?   A couple of potential ones have pale eyes, but maybe your bird has its eye in a shadow.  Perhaps @Peter Connan has a better idea than I do.

 

The second bird - perhaps a Marico Flycatcher?

 

Great photos in your post - thanks for this trip report @ElenaH   Paying a visit to Deception Valley has been on my bucket list since I read Cry of the Kalahari.

So, you should visit! There are a few birds more ;-)

[Peter Connan]

Beautiful Elena! Especially the sunset views from camp.

Bird number one I believe to be one of the Larks, but I'm not sure which. Maybe Sabota?

I agree with @offshorebirder's Flycatcher ID.

The falcon is a Pale Chanting Goshawk, and the last bird is Spotted Thick-knee. You would probably have heard them at night here and elsewhere.

[madaboutcheetah]

@ElenaH- Thanks for this report and lovely images. Your CKGR images brings back  memories of my two week mobile safari in the CKGR in 2010.  While in the deception valley, we would continuously stumble upon 3 young (ish) male lions who would constantly charge our vehicle with the intent to slash our tires........ 

 

One of these years, I want to go back to Tau Pan - I haven't seen a Gemsbok in far too long! 

[michael-ibk]

Excellent report with great photos Elena - thanks. I'm off to many of these camps in November. 

[ElenaH]

11 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

I want to go back to Tau Pan - I haven't seen a Gemsbok in far too long! 

You must! You should join Michael @michael-ibk

[ElenaH]

1 hour ago, michael-ibk said:

Excellent report with great photos Elena - thanks. I'm off to many of these camps in November.

WoW! Also in Tau Pan? Interesting if Onthy is still there..

But you are not to Little Kwara  What did you choose? Kwara? Or Four Rivers?

 

[michael-ibk]

Lagoon, Tau Pan, Four Rivers and Rra Dinare.

[ElenaH]

1 minute ago, michael-ibk said:

Lagoon, Tau Pan, Four Rivers and Rra Dinare.

Great! Hopefully we will se a TR   Take pictures of the camps Four Rivers and Rra Dinare. I am curious. Never been there.

[Geoff]

Wilddog overload. The pup on termite mound is lovely.

 

Fabulous TR.

Edited Sunday at 04:37 AM by Geoff

[madaboutcheetah]

On 9/14/2024 at 9:53 PM, ElenaH said:

WoW! Also in Tau Pan? Interesting if Onthy is still there..

But you are not to Little Kwara  What did you choose? Kwara? Or Four Rivers?

 

 

Ontee must be Geographically closer to you right now, @ElenaH- Not sure where exactly, but, she's based in Germany for many years now. 

[ElenaH]

On 9/15/2024 at 6:20 AM, Geoff said:

Wilddog overload. The pup on termite mound is lovely.

Thank you, Geoff!

[ElenaH]

3 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

Ontee must be Geographically closer to you right now, @ElenaH- Not sure where exactly, but, she's based in Germany for many years now. 

Yes, I know that she is married with a German man but I thought she is still working in Bots and her husband is in Bots as well. She was working being already married. But perhaps, she is working now in Germany in marketing, who knows.