Wholly Hokkaido

[Treepol]

 

I have often looked at the winter tours of Hokkaido and thought how wonderful it would be to see the Steller’s and White-tailed Sea Eagles, Whooper Swans, Red-crowned Cranes and the secretive Blakiston’s Fish Owl. Knowing that I would never brave the northern winter I was interested to see a couple of itineraries for summer itineraries. Naturalist Journeys (NJ) advertised an inaugural 11 day summer Hokkaido itinerary that offered possibilities of non-migrating Red-Crowned Cranes, Blakiston’s Fish Owl, White-tailed Sea Eagles together with some summer mammal specials including Siberian Brown Bear, Northern Pika and Raccoon Dog. I jumped on board hoping rather than expecting to see a selection of northern hemisphere species and summer visitors to Hokkaido.

 

 

 

 

Hokkaido is wild Japan, it’s rural, uncrowded and there wasn’t much traffic - totally unexpected.

 

 

Lake Ouema, near Wakkanai

 

Sarobetsu Wetland, near Wakkanai

 

 

The second largest island in Japan and the northernmost in the archipelago, Hokkaido is just 16 kilometres from the Russian administered Kuril Islands. The Ainu were the first people of Hokkaido.  It was a surprising destination and far from my perceptions of Japan that include Tokyo neon, crowds and heavy traffic. I enjoyed the trip and will return to Japan to visit cultural sites such as Kyoto, Hiroshima and Mt Fuji. Peg Abbott, the founder of NJ joined us for the inaugural trip.

 

 

Bryan Shirley was our guide together with local operator, Takumi Koichi. Koichi is a highly regarded hiking and mountain climbing guide who has climbed Kilimanjaro 14 times and is returning in September for a 15th ascent. Bryan speaks fluent Japanese and has a deep knowledge of, and love for Japan. His relaxed and confident approach to guiding in Japan set a positive vibe for the trip. Translating the lunch menu, sorting out orders and checkin never phased Bryan, nor did finding, identifying and scoping birds. He and Koichi have been friends and colleagues for many years now and their capable teamwork and high level guiding contributed greatly to the success of the trip. The group shared the guide’s joy when they both got lifers - Bryan was thrilled to finally see a Sakhalin Grasshopper Warbler and for Koichi a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. There is friendly rivalry between the 2 guides and Bryan is dismayed that Koichi is now 5 Japanese lifers ahead of him.

The guides worked hard to find birds and animals for us, however, overall I thought the birding was slow and distant with scope views of many species.  Mammals were few and far between. I don’t know if we were unlucky with the weather as we had 3 or 4 days of rain, or maybe Hokkaido isn’t an ideal summer wildlife destination. It’s impossible to say after an inaugural trip, however I’m happy with 55 lifers and 4 new mammals.

 

High points were Rebun Island, Notsuke Peninsula, the Shiretoko Cruise and very comfortable accommodation.

Rebun Island

 

Rebun Island

 

White-tailed eagle, Notsuke Peninula

 

 

Shiretoko Coast

 

The Japanese people deserve a special mention here, they are unfailingly respectful, polite and helpful. Best photo ops were at Kushiro Marsh on the last full day. Low points included the weather, missing Siberian Brown Bear (despite searching very hard) and not seeing Northern pika. Koichi knew a good pika site that was off the itinerary that we staked out with no sighting but we did hear one call.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 18 by Treepol

[Kitsafari]

I had wondered about summer birding in Hokkaido since winter birding on the island has eluded me a long time as timing was never right. So your TR comes in extremely handy and will help me! I also wonder if birding in early winter - November or December - would be just as good as in January/February? 

 

[Treepol]

@Kitsafari February is peak time for the Stellar's Sea Eagles, although there are likely to be a few around in late November or December. There are more ducks and swans in early winter because the lakes won't have frozen over yet. I guess it depends on your priorities. There is a TR here from a NJ trip in December 2023. Happy reading!

[offshorebirder]

Looking forward to this TR, thanks @Treepol.   I would love to visit Hokkaido and meet Ainu people some day.

 

 

[michael-ibk]

Very interesting, for some reason I never see Japan as a viable birding / wildlife destination, so I am looking forward to this!

[Treepol]

@offshorebirderand @michael-ibkI hope you are inspired by this TR!

 

I left Hobart on a wintry day, the temperature sitting stubbornly at 10C. I was on my way to Cairns to connect to a Virgin Australia flight to Tokyo. It seems that it’s impossible to travel now without at least one pre-departure drama. I thought mine was Virgin cancelling my outbound flight and having to re-book this together with revised arrival arrangements in Tokyo. However, the 2024 Cairns Ironman Competition played havoc with the traffic and the normal 10 minute trip to the airport took 1 hour. I couldn’t get there the required 3 hours before departure and online checkin isn’t available. I am the second last person to checkin and the crew haven’t arrived. Somehow they get through the traffic and the flight leaves on time for the 7.15 hour journey.

 

Cairns Esplanade on Ironman day

 

 

The flight north up the Queensland coast is so scenic. Turquoise water, secluded shallow bays and tropical islands with sandy halos. We fly over Papua New Guinea where sluggish grey rivers wind down to the sea, lush rainforest tumbles down mountainsides and rugged peaks pierce the clouds. The flight passes peacefully and I enjoy exploring the contents of my lunchtime bento box. The approach to Tokyo seems to happen very quickly - we pass a rainbow-bordered runway and lumber into Haneda Airport. Immigration, baggage collection and Customs are surprisingly slick and I am in the arrivals hall looking for my transfer. The operator has arranged for his friend’s daughter, Momo, to collect me. Momo advised by email that her distinguishing feature is long black hair. Hmmmm, there are a few who fit that description but only one holding a NJ sign. I am delivered to my tired room at the Haneda Mystays for the next 3 nights.

 

 

First day in Tokyo

 

I’m having an easy day today. There is a Shinto shrine dedicated to foxes near the hotel so I wander in on the way to the 7/11. Lunchtime worshippers drop a coin into a bowl and ring the bell once.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a residential neighbourhood of apartment blocks and houses. The bicycle is the favoured form of transport and surely accounts for the lack of traffic noise.

 

 

 

 

Second day in Tokyo

 

It’s very wet today with over 1100mm of rain forecast together with thunderstorms. A good time to do laundry, write notes, read and re-pack for tomorrow's flight to Wakkanai in northwestern Hokkaido, the departure point for the ferry trip to Rebun Island.

 

Edited July 20 by Treepol

[Treepol]

Day 3

 

The flight to Wakkanai took about 2 hours and landed at 1 pm. The flight path over Honshu and Hokkaido revealed the mountainous terrain below. Wakkanai is just 48 km from Russia and is Japan’s northern outpost where it is daylight for 16 hours per day.

 

 

 

Koichi, our driver and local guide meets us at the airport and drives us to Lake Ouema for a brief stop before the ferry departs.

 

 

 

A small flock of Tufted Duck swim far out from the shore, possibly part of a small breeding population in northern Hokkaido. These new age domes provide stylish accommodation.

 

 

 

The flower carpet around the shore was a taster for Rebun Island aka “island of flowers.” The ferry crossing took about 90 minutes and was chilly on the outside deck. Mt Rishiri was a constant landmark during the crossing where groups of Rhinocerous Auklet were spotted.

 

 

 

 

 

Rebun Island is very green and has mountains that plunge to the coast, leaving a narrow margin of land inhabited by the islanders. It reminded one of my friends of Iceland. The main industry is sea urchin fishing supplemented by seasonal tourism. Access to the marine resources is carefully monitored - this sign warns against poaching.

 

 

 

 

The community’s links to the sea are apparent throughout the settlements. The locals fish for sea urchins from light boats that are moored in sheltered water created by tetrapods.

 

 

 

 

 

These large concrete blocks are used to build breakwaters and are supplied in a variety styles. Mostly we saw the 5 pointed tetrapods but there were also some semi-round French examples. Birds commonly seen around the waterfront were Slaty-backed Gulls, the smaller Black-tailed Gull, Japanese Cormorant and White Wagtails. I was excited to see my first Siberian Ruby-throat through the scope at Peach Rock where a few Pacific Swifts were also seen.  

 

Coast near peach Rock

 

Peach Rock

[Treepol]

Day 4

 

Sadly, our full day on Rebun is impacted by the weather that remains stubbornly grey and showery. Rebun Island is part of the Rishiri-Rebun Sarobetsu National Park and is famous for 300 species of flowers, many of which are endemic. Koichi drives us around the north of the island with a brief stop at a Slaty-backed Gull nesting site where chicks are already out and about. The Slaty-backed Gull was the most commonly seen gull of the trip. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next stop is for the critically endangered Rebun Orchid.

 

 

 

 

We stop at the northernmost point to check out the huge Spotted Seals and admire their attractive fur – a bit like the dalmations of the sea. We had good views of the seals swimming and playing in the sea as well as resting on a haul out.

 

 

 

 

Opposite on a hilltop, a soggy Amur Stonechat braves the weather. A summer breeding visitor, this bird may have been questioning the decision to fly north this June. We have lunch at the ferry station cafe and leave on the 2pm ferry, 3 hours earlier than planned due to deteriorating weather. Some of the group are delighted to discover they can buy tins of hot coffee from a cold drink vending machine at the ferry terminal. Rather than join the group outside on the deck, I decided to stay inside in the toasty lounge on the return trip to Wakkanai, stretching out on the floor with the support of a comfortable back rest – just like a local.

 

Back at Wakkanai the sky is overcast but luckily it’s not raining, so we return to an area around airport to search for the Eastern Yellow Wagtail. Other birds seen were Reed Bunting, Masked Bunting and Latham’s Snipe. This Snipe migrates north from Australia to breed. During the trip we had numerous sightings of these birds perched on reflectors, barns, electricity poles and fences as well as groups flying overhead at Sarobetsu Wetland. The bird is named for Dr John Latham (1740-1837) a British physician, naturalist and author. He was friendly with the collectors and naturalists of the time and examined most of the species of Australian birds that reached England such as the emu, Wedge-tailed Eagle and Australian Magpie.

 

 

Sea urchin fishery

Fishing for sea urchins is a Rebun Island tradition that is still practiced by a few families. Koichi was able to provide a full description of fishing for sea urchins as he had participated in a tourist activity some years ago. The short season of just 4-5 weeks is running now. The fishermen are permitted to fish for one hour at 6 am. The boats are handled by a single operator who lies in the boat wearing a scuba mask for visibility and he steers the boat from a side rudder using his feet. He carries a 3 metre pole with a hook at one end that he uses to prise the urchins from the rocks. A good fisherman can harvest a small box, maybe 5 kg in a day and a good-sized urchin sells for $20US. Koichi says the guys who are really good at catching urchins are pretty old and have honed their skills over many years. He also says there is no way to steer a boat using just the feet!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Treepol]

Day 5

 

I missed the 6 am bird walk this morning, still sleeping. Breakfast at the Dormy Inn was an interesting experience with locals dropping in to eat on their way to work. The spread included lettuce, tomatoes, basil potatoes, fried chicken and potato skins, fruit and tiny squares of baked cheesecake and watermelon cake. It’s still raining.

 

The Sarobetsu Wetlands Boardwalk is built over a 3-5 metre deep peat moor.

 

 

 

 

The wildflower carpet provides a colourful background against which a Chestnut-eared Bunting is the first new bird.

 

 

 

 

A trio of Latham’s Snipe fly high overhead and this Amur Stonechat is taking breakfast to the family.

 

 

 

 

We had lunch at the cafe, curry and rice followed by ice cream before beginning a 4 hour drive into the mountains. The drive through rural Japan where we pass crops of potatoes, hops and many rice paddies. Rice is a fairly new crop for Hokkaido because it used to be too cold but it’s now warm enough to get a high grade harvest. Ploughed muddy fields are being prepared for buckwheat, the main ingredient in soba noodles. Asahidake, with a population of 300,000 people is Hokkaido’s second largest city after Sapporo. The Bearmonte Hotel below Mt Asahidake in Daisetsuzan National Park is home for the next 2 nights. Daisetsuzan National Park is Hokkaido’s largest national park at over 2000 square kilometres and is home to 16 peaks over 2000 metres. The park affords some of the most rugged scenery in Japan.

 

Tomorrow we are taking the ropeway (gondola) up the mountain.

 

 

Day 6

 

 

The area around the Bearmonte is heavily wooded with many shades of green. Birch, bamboo, fir and other species grow together in varied textures and shades of green. We ascended Mt Asahidake on the ropeway (gondola) to 1600 metres and scrambled around on “goat tracks” in search of high altitude birds and Northern Pika. The hills stretch away into the distance where the horizon is obscured by low cloud.

 

 

 

 

Tinkling bear bells were a constant reminder to be aware of our surroundings. We had good views of vocalising male Siberian Ruby-throats, a summer visitor during the breeding season. 

 

 

 

 

The Japanese Accentor is another summer visitor that is frequently seen perching on top of small pines near the gondola station.

 

 

Photo: Guide Service Mahana

 

Snow is still lying in the sheltered areas on the mountain where there is also some geo-thermal activity - real fire and ice.

 

 

 

 

Most of the snow has melted and alpine flowers cover the hillsides. This azalea-type plant makes a good ground cover.

 

 

 

Three energetic members of the group opted to climb the mountain with Koichi, bouquets to Kent, Cilla and Deb for this triumph. We spent about an hour at the Sugatami Pond viewpoint with a group of Japanese birders and were eventually rewarded with great close-up views of a pair of Pine Grosbeaks as they fed on Siberian Dwarf Stone Pines.

 

 

 

 

 

Late this afternoon we did a short walk around the resort area, keeping an eye out for bears. Birds seen included Grey Wagtail, Eurasian Treecreeper and close low light views of the beautiful Narcissus Flycatcher.

 

 

Narcissus Flycatcher                           Photo: D. McEachern

 

 

 

Snow safety

 

Hokkaido has a snow season from October to March. The quality of the snow attracts international skiers as well as domestic tourists. The roads here are edged with downward pointing red and white arrows to indicate the edge of the road to snow plough drivers.

 

 

 

 

Barricades have been installed above roads and towns to break the impact of avalanches on built-up areas and roads.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TonyQ]

A fascinating report @Treepol. A really interesting place

[Treepol]

@TonyQthanks for reading. Hokkaido was a surprising destination that I really enjoyed.

 

Day 7

 

The morning bird walk left at 6 am and the first bird was a Grey Wagtail. We dipped on dippers at the creek but did eventually get a good look at a Japanese Bush Warbler, a bird we had heard since day one with just fleeting glimpses. Mt Asahidake is a dramatic backdrop to the village.

 

 

 

 

I was sorry to leave the simplistic luxury of the Hotel Bearmonte, however we are headed for Lake Akan and Ainu country. The first stop was at Rainbow Park a leisure park built from funds granted to a nearby hydro-electric development. A pair of mallards swam on the lake and a family of Carrion Crows jumped around in the undergrowth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Russet Sparrow perched for photos and then we had great views of Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Koichi’s lifer.

 

 

 

 

We were disappointed to miss the pika at Mt Asahidake so Koichi kindly took us to another spot to try. This is the habitat favoured by the pika, we heard one call but they stayed out of sight. We didn’t see the pika but maybe they saw us?

 

 

 

Farm Tomita, a commercial flower farm at Furano was our lunch stop today. It was a full on tourist experience and quite a shock after almost a week in rural Japan.

 

 

 

 

 

After FarmTomita we back-tracked to the Blue Pond, another busy tourist place on a Sunday afternoon. The bus was stuck in a string of traffic from which there was no escape, so most people disembarked and walked to the Blue Pond.  This water feature is the last in a row of dams that were built after Mt Tokishe erupted 60 years ago, causing about 200 deaths.  The new dams are intended to stop future lava flows from reaching the villages. The water is very acidic and has killed the trees.

 

 

 

Lake Akan was still 4 hours drive away so it was time to hit the road. Large Sita deer came out at dusk and wandered across the road. This region is the stronghold of the remaining Ainu people. Our home tonight the Tsuruga Akan Yuko Hotel has many beautiful sculptures depicting Ainu scenes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Treepol]

Day 8

 

It’s still raining and I missed the 6 am bird walk again. Here is the damp view of Ainu sculptures from my room. 

 

 

 

 

I had hoped to buy an Ainu bear carving in this town but failed to find anything I really liked in the row of craft shops opposite the hotel.

 

 

Photo: Guide Service Mahana

 

 

I killed some time around the shops before wandering under the giant owls and up to the Ainu Museum that seemed to be just these 2 replica homes.

 

 

 

 

 

A pair of Eurasian Nuthatches flitted through the trees and a Eurasian Treecreeper made painstakingly slow progress down a tree trunk. The group is attending a traditional Ainu dance show this morning.

 

 

Photo: Guide Service Mahana

 

After the dance show we bought lunch at a Lawson’s convenience store (konbini) and ate on the bus. Black Woodpecker was the target this afternoon and the intrepid birders in the group walked for 90 minutes in the rain to achieve this lifer. A Narcissus Flycatcher showed well just outside the bus. The second stop was at Lake Tofutsu where we saw Pintail, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Grey Heron and Common Cuckoo. Three Golden-eyes were hanging back from a group of paddling ducks that we scoped from undercover as the rain fell around the shelter. The single Eurasian (Far eastern) Oystercatcher seen here was the only sighting for the trip as were 3 Black-headed Gulls. Little Ringed Plovers are a summer visitor to Hokkaido and we were lucky to see 3 individuals here, again, the only sighting for the whole trip. Tonight we are staying at the Shiretoko Daiishi Hotel and it's still raining.

 

 

Day 9

 

The rain has stopped overnight and this morning I have a view of the Sea of Okhotsk from my room. Gulls are calling from the shore and the omens are good for our cruise and walk today. The Shiretoko Peninsula was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2005 due to the productive marine and land environment produced by seasonal sea ice that forms at the lowest altitude in the Northern Hemisphere. This sea ice that forms in the Sea of Okhutsk produces a phytoplankton that is essential to the survival of Shiretoko’s marine system that sustains a salmon population that is an essential food source for the Siberian Brown Bear and the endangered Blakiston’s Fish Owl.

A Meadow Bunting is calling from the car park and a female Amur Stonechat is busy gathering nesting material.

 

 

Down at the harbour a Spectacled Guillemot paddles in the calm water and a Blue Thrush perches near the cliff. The Sea of Okhutsk is the breeding ground for Spectacled Guillemots a member of the auk family.  A Black Kite dries its wings on the cliff top.

 

Utoro Harbour

 

Spectacled Guillemot

 

Black Kite

 

The cruise left at 10 am and here is the first waterfall, Furepe.

 

 

 

Spectacled guillemots                                                Photo: Guide Service Mahana

 

The coastal scenery of the Shiretoko Peninsula is memorable.

 

 

 

 

 

Mostly Japanese Cormorants

 

During the cruise we look hard for Siberian Brown Bear but dip on this key species. The Shiretoko Research Station is usually a good place to check for bears, and we looked hard!

 

 

 

The afternoon Furepe Falls walk begins at the Shiretoko Nature Centre where Garden White butterflies hover.

 

 

 

 

A Masked Bunting, another summer visitor, stops for a photo and closer to the cliffs a Sika deer cares for a fawn.

 

 

 

 

The view of the falls from the lookout is a different perspective than the morning view from the sea.

 

 

 

Overhead, the clouds are rolling in preceding the forecast afternoon shower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 25 by Treepol

[TonyQ]

The Spectacled Guillemot is a lovely bird - I had not heard of it!

[Treepol]

 

Day 10

This morning we go on a bear hunt along some quiet roads. There were meadows just right for a bear but the bears had slept late. We checked for dippers in a creek and watched a Sika deer watching us.

 

 

 

 

The fir trees are perfectly formed Christmas trees.

 

 

 

We left Utoro and travelled east towards Rausu where the harbour was home to a flock of Slaty-backed Gulls bathing in the shallows.

 

 

 

We had scope views of Orca and Dall’s Porpoise in the bay against a backdrop of Kunashiri Island, the southernmost island in the disputed Kuril Islands group that are Russian territory.

 

 

 

 

 

The clouds began to lift once we had crossed over the Shiretoko-Rausu Pass. This Shinto Shrine was behind a 7/11 and featured eye-catching topiary and an attractive garden.

 

 

 

 

Chestnut-eared Starlings and Long-tailed Rose finches flitted around the shrine. The Chestnut-eared Starling is an uncommon summer visitor with distinctive markings.

 

 

This was the best sighting of the attractive Long-tailed Rose finch.

 

Photo: Guide Service Mahana

 

This afternoon we are exploring the Notsuke Peninsula, a 26 kilometre long sandspit that juts into the Nemuro Sea. This is the largest sandspit in Japan and provides a haven for plants, wildfowl and sealife and also visitors seeking to escape the regular tourist trails. It’s a very scenic place with some early summer fishing and seaweed industry activity. During the winter Notsuke is largely deserted. The peninsula narrows dramatically placing visitors very close to the Nemuro Sea on one side of the road and Odaito Bay on the other. Kunashiri Island is just 16 km from the Peninsula and some people received a “Welcome to Russia” message from their US phone provider.

 

 

 

 

A large flock of Grey Herons gathered on the mud-flat and a White-tailed Eagle perched on an abandoned boat.

 

 

 

We were lucky to have scope views of a Brant’s Goose that dwarfed the waterfowl around it and a group of 5 Falcated Duck, their impressive tail feathers seen clearly through the scope. We also had our first (scope) views of the iconic Red-Crowned Crane here.  A lonely Whooper Swan fed in the shallows, most of these birds have left by late April and there is some speculation that it’s injured and can’t migrate with the flock. A red fox ran parallel with the bus for a while carrying a dried fish back to its den, possibly located in the tetrapod seawall. The fox emerged without the fish and picked its way over a sea of colourful floats before approaching the bus, possibly looking for food?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We saw 3 male Sika Deer on the Peninsula, one was young and the other 2 mature males were in velvet making the antlers a reddish colour. The Hokkaido sub-species of Sika Deer is the largest in Japan.

 

 

 

 

Home for the next 2 nights is the stylish Yoroushi Onsen.

 

 

 

 

My room faced a green hillside and a clean, shallow stream. It was a relaxing and spiritual place to spend time. The New Crossing hallway linked two buildings and was lined with antiques and many interesting and varied limited edition prints. Yoroushi Onsen is well known for nightly sightings of the endangered Blakiston’s Fish Owl (aka Blakiston’s Eagle-owl). An habituated male comes in to a fish pond and a perch that afford good views of this unique bird. The female is a less frequent visitor. Having waited until 1030 I felt totally committed to the vigil! It takes patience and perseverance because the owl didn’t turn up until 2340 – I looked up to see a large owl gliding upstream through the trees and landing on the perch near the fish tank. It picked up the fish with its feet and passed the wriggling fish to its mouth, displaying an impressive wingspan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blakiston’s Fish Owl is the largest owl species with males weighing in at 3-3.6 kgs and females up to 4.6 kgs and is up to 72 cm in length. During his 10 minute visit the owl consumed 6 fish, showing its wing span with each dive into the pond. This upmarket onsen used to raise fish to serve fresh in their restaurant and the Owl discovered this smorgasbord about 30 years ago and has been visiting nightly ever since. The onsen owner’s realised the potential of close-up Blakiston’s Owl viewing and an almost symbiotic relationship was established. The owl is named for Thomas Blakiston a British explorer who travelled in western Canada, China and Japan. He spent 23 years in Japan between 1862-1885. He was the first to record that Hokkaido wildlife shares more similarities with northern Asian species and differs in appearance from those in Honshu. The Blakiston Line that runs through the Tsugaru Strait between Honshu and Hokkaido has been identified as an important zoo-geographical boundary.

 

 

Day 11

 

I decided to stay and enjoy the onsen today rather than joining the group on another cruise. The attractive gardens, peaceful rooms and comfortable lounge areas made for a relaxing day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I went for a walk up to the bridge where an iridescent Common Kingfisher zipped under the bridge and up the river at high speed. The Owl arrived around 2040 this evening and snacked on 4 fish before flying into the stream bed where he drank water and generally entertained for about an hour. It was wonderful to see him in such a natural setting, striding around in the shallows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 26 by Treepol

[TonyQ]

An amazing Owl sighting. Worth staying up for!

[Treepol]

Day 12

 

Today is our last full day in Japan. Our first stop was the Kitshuro Shitsugen a wetland where we birded from a boardwalk.

 

 

 

The first was a Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warbler, followed by a Common Reed Bunting.

 

 

Middendorff's Grasshopper Warbler

 

 

The warbler is named after Alexander von Middendorff who travelled through Siberia in the 1840s and noted the effects of permafrost on the distribution of animals and plants. We saw a female Amur Stonechat feeding a suspiciously large chick and wondered if it was a Cuckoo. An Eastern Crowned Warbler sat with a beak full of food, obviously on the way to feed the family.

 

 

 

 

The last bird was a White-backed Woodpecker that showed well, foraging close to the ground. A Eurasian Treecreeper worked its way up the trunk behind the woodpecker.

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch was at a pleasant cafe and gift shop with a beautiful garden sadly devoid of birds.

 

 

 

 

Soon after lunch we stopped for this pair of Red-Crowned Cranes, such a stately bird. It’s the national bird of Japan and the emblem for Japan Airlines.

 

 

 

 

 

Travelling through rural Japan we see many dairy farms - Friesians seem to be the favoured breed and provide the raw material for popular Hokkaido ice-cream. Grass hay mowing and crops of potatoes were also seen today. Around 3 pm we set off on a guided canoe safari on the Kushiro River. NJ had been advised by the canoe company that we wouldn’t have to paddle and could sit back and look for Crested Kingfisher and Red-crowned Cranes. I was very surprised to learn that we had to paddle our own canoe, so to speak, and consequently we saw a few birds but photo ops were few and far between as we were mostly in the middle of the waterway and travelling fast with the current.

 

 

 

 

Grey Herons were the first sighting followed by White-bellied Green Pigeons fluttering around a bridge. White-tailed Eagles perched high above the river. This Mandarin Duck was a welcome sight as were the cute Long-tailed Tits aka Snow fairies. Mandarin Ducks breed on Hokkaido during summer before migrating south to the temperate Japan’s temperate islands south of the Blakiston line. 

 

 

 

 

The Long-tailed Tits have a very successful advertising agent as they feature on many Japanese souvenirs and packaging. The appealing Hokkaido race is has a white face without the thick black eyebrow of other Japanese species.

 

 

 

 

I was pleased to see this White-tailed Eagle drying off on a muddy river bank followed by a Red-Crowned Crane feeding further along the shady bank. White-tailed Eagles breed in northern Hokkaido where the population reaches a peak in winter with the arrival of flocks from Russia and other northern populations. 

 

 

 

 

 

We saw several Sika Deer along the river, this mother and fawn were quite cute.

 

 

 

 

Our last night in Japan is at Yamahana Onsen. Unfortunately I decided not to go out this evening in search of a Ural Owl given that there was only a slim chance of seeing one. Bryan was going to check a winter roost and 3 people got lucky. I wish I hadn't worried about packing for the international flight home and instead made a final attempt to see the Ural Owl. My bad. I have said many times on safari “You snooze, you lose.” Never a truer word!

 

 

 

Last day

 

 

There was time for a quick walk around the pond this morning before our flights to Tokyo and then home via Cairns for a few days of sun before facing the Tasmanian winter. The last birds of the trip were Eurasian Tree Sparrow and Common Kingfisher.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 28 by Treepol

[Zubbie15]

Thanks for sharing @Treepol, I've never really thought of Japan as a summer wildlife destination so good to have your experience.  I have to say I was curious about your comments related to the bears, so I googled it and was surprised at just how many bears are estimated to be present in Japan.  

[Treepol]

@Zubbie15interesting that you mention this! About a month before I left there was a documentary about bear attacks that screened nationally in Australia. It seems that bear attacks are rising sharply, especially in western Honshu due to the usual reasons of habitat loss and human/wildlife conflict. Some have been fatal. We did hear tinkling bear bells tied to bags and backpacks on our walks so the locals are very aware of the danger.

 

The usual track to Furepe Falls was closed when we went to start our walk - there was a sign directing us to another track due to bear activity. Oh, I was tempted to creep a little way down the track to see what I could see! The silly thing was that the 2 tracks were only a few hundred metres apart anyway. We still didn't see the bear though. Apparently they like to prey on the Sika Deer fawns and we saw a couple of fawns on our walk that afternoon so it probably was ideal bear country at that time.

[Kitsafari]

sorry you missed the ural owl but the blakinston's owl must have been a major highlight of the trip! I throroughly enjoyed the text and photos, conveying  sense of easy and relaxing birding trip. The Yoroushi Onsen looks so comfy I would have also just spent a day resting and soaking in the ambiance before watching the owl!

 

Thanks for sharing. 

[Treepol]

@Kitsafarithanks for your kind words.

 

The Blakiston's was in my top 3 highlights for sure. My friends wanted to stay at Yoroushi Onsen and found that it was booked up months in advance, just a tip for you in case you ever want to visit.

[TonyQ]

Thank you for a really interesting report with lovely photos.

I know very little about this area of the world, so lots of surprises for me!

[Treepol]

@TonyQthanks for travelling along!

[Kitsafari]

On 7/28/2024 at 12:36 PM, Treepol said:

@Kitsafarithanks for your kind words.

 

The Blakiston's was in my top 3 highlights for sure. My friends wanted to stay at Yoroushi Onsen and found that it was booked up months in advance, just a tip for you in case you ever want to visit.

 

that's a very helpful tip. thank you!

[michael-ibk]

A very interesting report Denise, thank you for sharing! Really enjoyed the landscape photos especially, gorgeous scenery. Interesting that Japan has so many species that are at home in Europe as well. You had great sightings of Eagles and Owls even if you missed the Ural. The amount of rain you had - is that typical?

[Treepol]

Thanks for reading along Michael. I don't think the rain was expected, our pre-departure information said to expect temperatures of between 20-25C so I packed for summer weather rather than days between 12-15C. We did have a few lovely days, maybe only 1 that reached 25C.