Once more unto the Mara! A belated trip, and a belated trip report: June 2022

[janzin]

So while the kids were playing, mom was alert....

 

 

Perching high on a fallen tree, she was looking for dinner for the gang...

 

 

And before we could even focus, she bolted....one minute she was there, the next...

 

 

A skilled hunter, she was almost instantly back with dinner!

 

But there was one problem...the playful cubs were causing a ruckus and drawing the attention of hyenas.  Apparently she brought the impala to a bush but before she could even call the cubs over the hyenas stole it.  Pesky energetic cubs ruined their dinner.  I'm not sure why I have no photos of any of this, I think we had followed Kweli and once she went into the bushes with the kill we had no vantage point (there were of course a few other vehicles there at the time...not too many...)

 

Anyway, once she lost the kill she seemed eager to try again. But this time the cubs joined her on the fallen tree, not making it easy for her to hunt in peace.

 

 

 

However it did make for some nice photo ops

 

 

Eventually she gave up and they all came down from the perch.

 

 

At this point I guess we left them to hopefully try again for their dinner. But no worries, we'll see them again

 

Meantime, on the way back to camp we came across a lazing lion. Actually he was in a group of three other male lions, all sleeping.

 

 

He seemed ready to call it a night, so we did too.  Joseph was pretty sure this coalition would stick around, and we'd look for them again in the morning.

 

 

We were definitely loving Kicheche and OMC so far!!

Edited July 19 by janzin

[Atdahl]

Wow, awesome cheetah photos Janet.  Not sure I have ever seen one trying to climb a tree before...I love that series.

[janzin]

1 hour ago, Atdahl said:

Wow, awesome cheetah photos Janet.  Not sure I have ever seen one trying to climb a tree before...I love that series.

Thanks, my favorites too! Now that I'm looking at them again, I think I'm going to print the one where he's looking at us

 

[janzin]

BTW, for those interested, the gear I was using for this trip was the Nikon Z9 with 500 F4 lens, and the Z7ii with 70-200 2.8 lens.

[John M.]

   Amusing to see how over-ambitious adolescent cheetahs can be when mother is teaching them about high vantage points.

[janzin]

The next morning we returned to the area where we'd seen the four lions. Sure enough, we found them. At first still sleeping, but soon they roused...very handsome young lions.  My notes say these four were breakaways from the Moniko pride, and known as the Sankai pride.

 

 

It was very early and the light was really low, having to use a relatively slow shutter speed, I tried to capture their playful antics, with only some success. I think now I wouldn't be so leery of the higher ISO's and would have used a faster speed, but this was my first safari with the Z9 and I wasn't sure how it would do at high ISO.

 

I am not sure if these are truly brothers or just from the same pride.

 

 

 

After they stopped their horseplay, we followed them until they found something else to play with.

 

Making for some nice poses!

 

 

 

One by one they came....

 

 

Marking territory.

 

 

 

They wandered off into the plains but we didn't follow, as Joseph wanted to take us somewhere else--where there were apparently more lions doing interesting things....

 

Edited July 20 by janzin

[janzin]

We headed toward where Joseph had heard that the Enkoyonai pride was gathered by the Ntiakitiak River.  This was quite a bit distant from camp, smack in the center of the conservancy. We arrived to find lots of lions and cubs along the top bank of the river, most in high grass (as usual.) But soon, one by one, they started descending down to the river bed.  As we were on top of a rather high "cliff," we had a great vantage point and it turned out to be one of the best and most fun photo sessions I've had with lions!

 

A female comes down to drink.

 

 

Poses...

 

 

Steps gingerly across. Don't want to get those dainty paws wet!

 

I think this one might be a young male.

 

 

A cub makes it to the other side...

 

 

Where there's the remains of a young giraffe kill to play with!

 

 

We kept hoping one of the lions would leap across instead of walking on the rocks.

 

Another lioness comes down. Will she leap???

 

 

YES!!

 

 

 

Another one comes along, but takes the easy route.

 

 

This one is not too happy with the water I don't think.

 

 

She leaps!  It was really too bad they were leaping in the wrong direction..

 

 

But it was so much fun to try and catch them in flight!

 

 

Now came the big male.  He's way to heavy to leap, I think.

 

So he gingerly walks across.

 

 

 

And stands for a final majestic pose. This lion, I later learned, is Olonyokie. I believe he's still around.

 

 

What a great morning with the lions!

 

Edited July 21 by janzin

[janzin]

The rest of the morning served up the usual assortment of birds and beasts.

 

 

 

 

 

A highlight was this Great-spotted Cuckoo, a life bird for us.  He was on the ground when we first spotted him (no pun intended!) but flew up into a tree. Although partially obscured I was happy to get anything!

 

 

Can't resist one handsome impala shot.

 

 

 

 

 

This Abyssinian Nightjar was down in a gully, I don't know how Joseph spotted him!

 

 

 

We spent some time watching this Martial Eagle being harassed by a Lilac-breasted Roller.  Perhaps he had a nest nearby.

 

 

 

Note in this image you can see that this eagle has a radio tracker on his back--the white boxy item.

 

 

An interesting aside: when we arrived at Serian camp a few days later, we met the founder of the Mara Raptor project, Stratton Hatfield.  He was really interested in where we had seen this eagle as it was of course his tracker which it was wearing.  More about that when I get up to the Serian section.

 

 

[ElenaH]

Lovely cheetah photos! 

[janzin]

After lunch we headed out to find Kweli and the cubs again.

 

We arrived just in time to miss Kewli sprint to the hunt! Photos were a total miss!

 

 

Aargh! She headed straight into the brush.

 

But we saw her come back with her prize.

 

 

Thankfully the cubs were better behaved today and mom managed to keep the hyenas at bay.

 

 

So everyone got dinner!

 

 

 

Happy cub!

 

 

Tug-o-war over the scraps.

 

 

Clean-up time!

 

 

 

Kweli is a good hunter and provider!

 

On the way back to camp we found a beautiful African Pygmy Kingfisher--always hard to photograph as they are so small and usually distant. This one was by a stream right by the track.

 

 

And we found the four male coalition again, but they were just sleeping. Except for this one who sat up for a moment in nice light.

 

 

A great day in Olare Motorogoi, even if so far, no leopards!

Edited July 23 by janzin

[Zubbie15]

Great photos @janzin, too many special ones to choose a favorite.  

[leras]

On 7/19/2024 at 4:41 PM, janzin said:

BTW, for those interested, the gear I was using for this trip was the Nikon Z9 with 500 F4 lens, and the Z7ii with 70-200 2.8 lens.

Thank you! I was just wondering about your gear. Your photos are spectacular. Which lens did you find yourself using more? I am just starting to get serious about photography in the lead-up for our first (hopefully not last!) trip to Africa next year, to Botswana. There is so much to learn.

[Miss Biscuit]

Love the cheetahs and the leopards! All the photos are great. 

[janzin]

1 hour ago, leras said:

Thank you! I was just wondering about your gear. Your photos are spectacular. Which lens did you find yourself using more? I am just starting to get serious about photography in the lead-up for our first (hopefully not last!) trip to Africa next year, to Botswana. There is so much to learn.

Thanks @leras! You will find that one trip will just get you craving more  

 

As for lenses, I probably used the 500mm most--certainly for birds, but you'd be surprised how often I needed the shorter lens as well. Elephants, Giraffes, group shots, and more. Also the faster aperture is useful for low light shots. If you are just getting started a zoom with a long range is perfect, like a 100-500, 180-600 or a 200-600 depending on your camera.

[janzin]

Thanks @Zubbie15and @Miss Biscuit!

 

The next morning we started off right away with a male lion and some playful cubs. I believe this was the Enkoyonai pride again, but can't be certain.

 

 

 

But we didn't stay with them too long as we were on another mission...more cheetahs...in the far northeast of the conservancy.

 

On the way, more birds.

 

 

 

And some ellies with a young'un.

 

 

Eventually we were far, far from Kicheche Bush (at least it seemed that way!) Past the upscale camp of Olare Mara Kempinski, past the even more upscale camp of Mahali Mzuri (owned by Richard Branson), we finally found our targets!

 

 

These are the three subadult cubs of the cheetah Neema. They were about 17 or 18 months old and had just split from their mother, so were quite dependant on each other. According to the Mara Cheetah Project, their names are: "the male Noma (Tough, in Swahili), his sister-companion Nariku (The One who is followed, in Maa) and the sister-hunter - Nagol (The One who relies on her own efforts, in Maa). "  (A full post about them can be found on Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/MaraMeruCheetahProject/posts/neemas-cubs-noma-nariku-and-nagolafter-mother-leaves-her-cubs-littermates-stay-t/2321760624666552/ )

 

They were on the prowl, stopping occasionally to rest.  We of course followed!

 

 

 

 

Marking.

 

 

At one point the cubs rounded a bend and came across a not very friendly group of hyenas!

 

 

This made for some exciting action as they postured and hissed.

 

 

 

 

Eventually the hyenas ran off, with no physical encounter. Whew!

 

We continued to follow, sometimes watching from afar, as we didn't want to interfere if they decided to hunt. But they didn't really seem in a hunting mode.

 

We came to a stream and one came down to drink.

 

 

The three crossing a small water course.

 

 

Eventually we let them get quite distant as it was getting difficult to follow them. But we could still see them and sadly we saw that one of the females had seperated and the other two were on the other side of a rather large cliff. The seperated one was calling for her siblings.   We were a bit concerned as Joseph said she was not experienced enough to last on her own.  But, later that day we found out from some other guests that the three were reunited. A happy ending!

 

Well OMC has so far been amazing for cheetah! Still no leopard, though. And believe me we were trying

 

[janzin]

On the way back to camp for lunch, we came across some mating lions. Perhaps the same pride as earlier.

 

 

And an Eland. These are not that common in the Mara, and usually solitary.

 

 

A nursing zebra.

 

 

The afternoon safari started out with a mish-mosh of the usual suspects. A lot of birds of course.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Right by this flame tree which held the Sunbird, we found this cute critter.

 

 

And a not-as-cute one.

 

 

Somewhere, there was a hippo pool.

 

 

The lion pride was still around, they seemed pretty regular in this area.

 

 

And more were mating.

 

 

The day was drawing to a close, but we had one more stop to make.

 

[Ginny]

@janzin  Your  photos just get better and better!  I love the kingfisher in the thorn tree and the angry/threatening cheetah!

[janzin]

Thanks @Ginny!

 

We headed back to camp by way of a hyena den, which we'd past a few times already but there was never anyone out and about. The pups do tend to come out early or late in the day. Sure enough, there was activity.

 

The young hyenas had hold of what was once, apparently, a burlap sack, and were enjoying a tug-of-war (that seems to be a popular game among the young animals of the Mara!)

 

 

Aww, why won't you let me play?

 

 

Friends.

 

 

So many varieties of coats and colors.

 

 

 

This one looked the youngest.

 

 

Moving on, we found some Zebra in lovely light.

 

 

Eventually the light faded.  Time to head back for dinner.

 

 

 

One more day left at Kicheche.  What might it bring?

[leras]

10 hours ago, janzin said:

 If you are just getting started a zoom with a long range is perfect, like a 100-500, 180-600 or a 200-600 depending on your camera.

Thank you!

[janzin]

The next day, if I recall, the goal was to try for leopard but so far we'd come up empty and so had the others in camp. It really seemed like all the leopards had dispersed. 

 

So the day was basically another assortment of birds and the usual culprits, but with some cool sightings. I'm combining the morning and afternoon drives into just one post. Our last full day at OMC and Kicheche Bush Camp!

 

 

Mongooses at their den.

 

 

A semi-cooperative Black Crake, not so easy to photograph.

 

 

A nice family of ellies.

 

 

We spied this Black-winged Kite feasting on a Grassrat.

 

 

 

Yep, definitely a Grassrat!

 

 

When we got back to camp, this living Grassrat was right by our tent Much cuter alive!

 

 

A Purple Roller is less common than the LBR kind, especially out in the open.

 

 

 

 

 

I don't think I've posted any giraffes yet. We actually didn't see all that many, at least not that close.

 

 

The lions were still going at it.

 

 

And we said farewell to the cubs of OMC.

 

 

Bye-bye!

 

 

So, off to Serian the next morning.  I don't have anything in particular from that transfer drive so I think it was uneventful.  In the end, we found no leopards in OMC--after specifically booking it for leopards! But were amply rewarded with lion and cheetah activity and action. And we loved Kicheche Bush camp and would definitely return.

 

Maybe Mara North will have a leopard or two????

 

 

[Atdahl]

Great shots Janet!  Too bad about the leopards at OMC but it looks like your "teaser" at the end there is foreshadowing of things to come...

[offshorebirder]

Soo many great photos @janzin

 

I especially like the  Martial Eagle,  Grey Kestrel, and hippo gaping.

[janzin]

Thanks @Atdahland @offshorebirder!

 

A bit of a preamble regarding our Serian stay. When we first booked the trip, we had booked all four nights at Serian Original, where we'd stayed (and loved) before. But when we rebooked for the third time, unfortunately Serian Original wasn't available for all of our four nights. However, Wild Source was able to negotiate that we could stay at Ngare Serian--their more expensive and exclusive camp across the river--for the first two nights, then be switched to the original camp the 2nd two nights, at no additional charge. We weren't thrilled with having to move but Rosin (the manager at Serian, who I was in touch with) assured us it would be a seamless move, and wouldn't impact our safari drives and we wouldn't have to lift a finger. Okay then, no problem! We'd get a taste of Ngare!

 

As it turned out, once we arrive there Roisin told us we could actually stay all 4 nights at Ngare if we wanted, as it had opened up. But we opted to keep the move back to the original as--wait for it--we really didn't like Ngare at all! I couldn't wait to get out of there and back to the original!!

 

Why? The main reason was the bridge.

 

 

Every day we had to walk across this bridge...at least four times, because the camp vehicles for both camps leave from the other side, where the main camp is. The bridge swung. And only one person could walk across at a time. I hated it! Each time I had to cross I had to repeat to myself "almost there, almost there, almost there."  And sometimes coming back it was in the dark--omg even worse.

 

 

There were other things I didn't like about Ngare. Although the rooms were nice...

 

 

The tent was right on the river and VERY buggy. Also with wooden floors that insects could come through. (Okay, I guess I have a thing about insects in my room!)

 

 

And the bathroom was open to the buggy river so that if you needed to go out in the night...yep, lots and lots of bugs. 

 

 

Although I don't have any photos of our main camp tent from this trip, I much preferred it with it's enclosed bathroom and separate (but enclosed) shower and bath area.

 

Also, it felt very isolated from the social life of the main camp. There was only one other family staying there, and they had dinner by themselves, so we had no one eating with us.  It was lonely!  I loved the deck of the main camp by the river, and there were always interesting people to talk to over there. That's one of the things i love about Serian camp in general--there are often hosting various local conservationists.  On our first trip we met a couple of folks from the Mara Predator Project, including it's senior scientist Niels Mogensen; this trip we met the head of the Mara Raptor Project, Stratton Hatfield. Rosin and her family were usually around the main camp (although she camp over to check on us at Ngare a few times.) 

 

Anyway, we couldn't wait to leave Ngare.

 

Another perk I love about Serian, they usually have a resident photographer at camp; last trip it was Trai Anfield and this trip it was Chad Cocking. More about them later.

 

The lovely deck and dining area at the main camp.

 

 

And of course the main camp was usually where we would find Widget, the family dog of Roisin and her husband Adrian and her kids Charlotte and Harriet.

 

 

So needless to say we told Rosin that the sooner we could get into the Serian original tent that we'd originally wanted, the better. And indeed after two nights we were moved (seamlessly) and were much happier!

[janzin]

Our guide at Serian was James Kipetu, a fabulous guide who we had on our first Serian stay and of course requested again. (He is also a favorite of @Kitsafariwho has been guided by him a few times as well.) We also were warmly greeted by Rosin (Rosh) and introduced to Widget (their prior dog, Wifi, who we met last trip, had sadly passed away.) And her new addition to the family, Harriet. Warm greetings all around!  Coming back to Serian is like seeing old friends!

 

After settling in, and having our lunch it was back across the wobbly bridge, and we were off--directly to where James knew some members of the Serian pride had made a zebra kill earlier.

 

But we arrived to quite a commotion. A pack of hyenas had stolen the kill, and the lions were in retreat.   Grass here was high, so hard to photograph. I was standing up in the vehicle to see over the grass.

 

 

 

For once, I remembered to take a video, because it was quite the frenzy, and with quite a cacophony! An amazing sound! Sound on!

 

As you can see, the poor lions didn't stand a chance of regaining their dinner.

 

This one young lion was standing lookout--or trying to hide up the tree, not too successfully.

 

 

Eventually the hyenas started to retreat, but they didn't leave much.  A Jackal started moving in as well.

 

Heading off with a leg.

 

 

Poor hungry lions   Where did our dinner go?

 

 

I know it was around here somewhere!

 

 

The final standoff...

 

 

Oh goody, they left me a piece of tail.

 

 

Gazing off into the distance at the marauders. 

 

 

Sigh, no dinner for them tonight! But we still had dinner to look forward to

 

Off to a great start in Mara North!

[janzin]

The goal the next day was, you got it, leopard. There was a particular leopard we were searching for: Nelangu, who we had spent much time with on our previous trip, when we had watched (and photographed) her mating with the male Jasiri. Now, she had a cub (not from that mating...this was a newer one )  So she was our target, although of course any leopard would make us happy, since we had dipped on leopard in OMC.

 

But the day started off with more lions.   I believe these were from the Offbeat pride. A lioness and two cubs in the early morning light.

 

 

She laid down near a bush and the cubs started nursing.

 

 

 

Future King (or Queen...)

 

 

Not far from them was the male...maybe Daddy? Can't be sure. But he was basically lazing around.

 

 

 

We left the lions to continue our leopard search.  But from my photos, it seems the rest of the day was "for the birds."

 

Lots of birds coming up!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We went pretty far afield, searching for leopard, but other than birds all I have from this day is some Giraffes.

 

 

 

 

We had gone just about as far from Serian as you could go and still be in Mara North--but sigh, still no leopard!

 

Edited July 29 by janzin