2021 Kwando Safari - Going again - Hopefully this will "scratch the itch" for good (haha)

[Scooter]

On 7/31/2024 at 2:53 AM, ElenaH said:

 @Scooter   Can you share your tricks, please? If you don't mind, of course. I have only two or three: sitting in the pool if there is one, wearing wet clothes and using a portable fan. 

 

It is easy during the day,  I find.    If the camp has a pool,   yes,  I don a swimsuit,  and cool down.    If it doesn't,   I still don the swimsuit,   and have a cold shower,  and wear wet clothes.     Place a towel on the bed,   and viola,  you are cool enough for a nap.      Night for me is tougher.   Coming from an after-dark dinner,   where the outside air has cooled down,    and having to enter a hot tent,   is tough.     But I basically do the same thing.    I do my "main" shower at night,   and wash my hair.     I have a special "scrunchie" towel for my hair,   and go to bed with it wet.    (the scrunchie protects the pillows/linens).      Sometimes my hair is not even dry in the mornings,    and I find I have a much greater sleep with just that for a cooling method.      If it is even hotter,    I will use a "Kalahari Cooler",   or a kikoi.     Wet it,  wring it,   and place it on top of yourself for your bedding.     

My clothing is all extremely light weight fly-fishing apparel from Columbia,    and my pants are OutdoorResearch,    and honestly cooler having those on,  rather than bare skin in direct sun.   

 

On 7/31/2024 at 2:53 AM, ElenaH said:

 

Why do you like this time to visit Okavango?

1) Price was the initial incentive.     At Kwando camps,   the price used to drop to about 1/3 of the price you would pay for peak  season at the end of October.   (their seasonal dates are changing moving forward - there are many,  like me,   who race to get in those last 2 weeks of November,  and so now,  low season will not start until Dec)  Drawback of course,  being the heat.      After I figured out I could handle the heat,    there are other very compelling reasons for me now:

2) The possibility (probability) of a good rain.   It cools things down measurably.        I think it is absolutely marvelous to smell the first rains,    and to sense just how happy the animals are.    Rains also provide fresh tracks,   and yes,   when there aren't many customers in the concession,   it is of great help to have an overnight rain.    It "erases" the chalkboard and gives you a very good way to see where and when.      And this "tracking" is what I am truly addicted to.     If there were animals around every corner,   I am not sure I would be as hooked.     It would  not thrill me to just go "spot where all the other cars are".    There is something extremely satisfying,   to track fresh prints,   or drag marks to a sighting.                At,  say,   Lagoon or Lebala in the Linyanti,    depending on when the rains have started,   yes,  that does profoundly affect game viewing.    If you are there before the big,  heavy rains start,   then,   the game viewing is astounding.     Not so great later on once game disperses away from the river.    But in late Nov/early Dec,    the landscape is just starting to "green up" (I prefer that for my photos),   but the grasses are still very short,   so it is still easy to spot (and photograph) the smaller stuff (lion cubs tucked in the shrubs,   baby elephants walking with mom).

3) Moody skies to photograph.     This is sort of double-edged,   as sometimes a cloudy day + shady spot can challenge the ISO for my camera - but I still prefer to see some "life" in the skies.    I love that the rains are,   generally at that time of year,   more isolated showers,    and with such a big expanse,   you can sometimes see different showers falling in different spots.

4) Newborn season.    Both for the newborns.    And for the resulting predator action.     

5) Migrant birds have come back.    (I really like seeing the carmine bee-eaters)

6) The flood has receded in the southern Delta enough that there are more land areas to traverse for game viewing.    

 

Bottom line is:    this isn't "bucket list" for me.     It's not a "one-and-done".     So I cannot spend high season prices and expect to go once per year.  (or more if possible)   And I am generally solo - so not having the single supplement in green season is also huge.    Being solo,    I am also of course not inclined to self-drive.  In Kwando camps,   as a solo,   I find I am  well looked after in green season.       And,   even though I am Canadian,    I can more tough out the "too warm" of spring/summer,   than I could handle the "too cold in the mornings/nights" of fall/winter - that also falls in my too-short Canadian summers - which I am not willing to forfeit.    I AM  willing to trade a Canadian November/Dec for Botswana's heat tho ;

Edited August 1 by Scooter

[Scooter]

Final days.     Charles invites me to use the office - and I appreciate it so much!    KLM has cancelled my flight (I knew that was coming).     And there is no route home.   

 

 But wait,    there is a U17 field hockey team from Canada who is also stuck??   (big world-wide tournament in SA - of course cancelled).   Not a good pr move.       We wait and see.        Sure enough,   our gov't clears a way for those girls to get home.     They must fly on this route,  and on this  airline.        But bf is adept,    at getting me on THAT plane!!    Woohoo!!   I have to spend some days at the airport hotel in Joberg.   ( No big deal.  )

 

I now have a private vehicle,  and guide,   as guests leave.       To be able to see 2 different packs of dogs (in different areas of the concession) daily,    is just fabulous for me.      On my last morning,   Shime says,    "Is there anything you want to photograph,  that you haven't seen yet?"     I have had "several trip's worth" of incredible,   and unusually exclusive sightings.      "oh wait!!     I have not had good crocodile pics.     And birds in flight.     I am terrible at that.    Could we maybe find a place to see both?"

 

And Shime finds me this place.     No crocodiles,   but 3 different pied kingfishers.     What an absolute treasure having a private guide is.     Even if bf were along with me,   there is zero chance he would have tolerated  (and I wouldn't have even floated the idea) of me spending a whole half-morning practicing obtaining focus on a hovering bird.

Life is fantastic.    

 

 

 

Oh boy.    I need practice!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ok.......getting better.

 

 

Whoah!    Coming in hot!

 

 

 

And yes,   indeed,    the shot I'm after!

 

 

We wind our way to the airstrip,   to say  good-bye's and we have a final Kwara send-off with a couple of bachelor elephants and some older lion cubs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I fly home with the field hockey team.    (they are kept in quite a "bubble" - they boarded separately,   deplaned separately).      We are flying Lufthansa - fantastic flight,   fantastic crew.    It was a full flight - as there were many Canadians who were all staying at my same hotel,  and jumped on this chance to get home.    (several solo women were stuck,   and we created a "support group" in WhatsApp to keep each other company).      Yes,   I had to experience quarantine hotel,   but at least I was home,   and out of quarantine by Dec 23rd.     (Christmas compliments to Amazon lol).          So........ a fantastic wildlife experience.     But a bit stressful.           I think the best,    was having Christmas dinner - and seeing my family again  - (not since latter November).                       

 

 

T

 

Edited August 1 by Scooter

[mopsy]

Really enjoyable report @Scooterthanks for sharing.

 

You had some great sightings on this trip.

[offshorebirder]

Fantastic report @Scooter - I am just getting aught up after a busy few weeks.

 

Thank you so much for your good photos and riveting, funny text.   It brings back memories of a swing through the Intercontinental Hotel at Joburg airport during Covid and a trip to Zambia.

 

Edited July 31 by offshorebirder

[madaboutcheetah]

Thank you for your time, @Scooter..... Can't wait for another report!! 

[Peter Connan]

A lovely trip report. Glad you made it home before Christmas, if only just.

 

I agree with your thoughts on summer.

As a boy, we used to go "to the bush" every July school holiday. We could only go on holiday during school holidays as his income was tied to school seasons (he was a photographer who specialized in school photography). When I was about 16 or 17, my dad decided he wanted to see what it was like in December. My mother said we were welcome, but she wasn't coming, and so the "ram camp" was born. It became an annual institution, a bunch of guys going "to the bush" from around the 16th of December (a public holiday here and usually the start of school holidays) until about the 23rd (to be home for Christmas).

 

Not only that, but it broke the ice. After that, we started going at all times of year, and there is something that is different and interesting about every season. But my favorite remains those early-season thunder-storms. Man they are awesome! And the feeling of "new life" is almost palpable on the early morning drive (or walk if you are really lucky) the next morning is almost palpable. We used to sleep outside under the veranda in summer. And I'll never forget the night the lion visited. Only visible during the flashes of lightning, with periods of "angst" between.

 

The one coping mechanism you didn't mention which may be of interest to self-drivers is to adjust one's schedule. Up early, rest during the day. In lodges, this is typically almost automatic.

 

The other interesting time some people miss is Easter. New life all around (although mostly on a small scale), and those magnificent golden orbs!

 

 

[michael-ibk]

A very entertaining report, and made me look forward to my long overdue return to the Kwando camps. I'm also a big Green Season fan, just love the Green vegetation, the Blue Sky and the White Clouds at that time. Thanks for sharing!

[Scooter]

On 8/1/2024 at 3:17 AM, Peter Connan said:

I agree with your thoughts on summer.

As a boy, we used to go "to the bush" every July school holiday. We could only go on holiday during school holidays as his income was tied to school seasons (he was a photographer who specialized in school photography). When I was about 16 or 17, my dad decided he wanted to see what it was like in December. My mother said we were welcome, but she wasn't coming, and so the "ram camp" was born. It became an annual institution, a bunch of guys going "to the bush" from around the 16th of December (a public holiday here and usually the start of school holidays) until about the 23rd (to be home for Christmas).

 

Not only that, but it broke the ice. After that, we started going at all times of year, and there is something that is different and interesting about every season. But my favorite remains those early-season thunder-storms. Man they are awesome! And the feeling of "new life" is almost palpable on the early morning drive (or walk if you are really lucky) the next morning is almost palpable. We used to sleep outside under the veranda in summer. And I'll never forget the night the lion visited. Only visible during the flashes of lightning, with periods of "angst" between.

 

Oh that sounds  like a fabulous  "outdoor" childhood/young adult experience.    Here in Canada,   we go camping - with varying levels of comfort.   (from tenting,  to small trailers,   to big trailers,  and the big motorhomes).    In today's world - I often look at the youth (my own kids included),   and feel that connection to nature and being in the wild is missing.     (not sure I would have done much "sleeping" outside under the veranda,  though,  yikes!)

 

 

On 8/1/2024 at 3:17 AM, Peter Connan said:

The one coping mechanism you didn't mention which may be of interest to self-drivers is to adjust one's schedule. Up early, rest during the day. In lodges, this is typically almost automatic.

 

Ah!    Yes!    I hadn't thought of that actually.    I know the lodges switch up their "wake up" times during the longer days/warmer temps.    So,   usually,   wake-up call is 5am (I set my alarm for 4:40 in order to be a bit ahead),   and meet up at campfire for light breakfast/coffee is 5:30am.     If I were self-driving,   I am not so sure I would have this kind of self-discipline.    It would be too easy to have "one more glass of wine" around the evening fire,   and be too easy to hit the "snooze" button in the morning.    Knowing that there is a guide/tracker,   other guests,   and staff who have gone out of their way to make mornings swift is a great motivator to get you going.       

Morning drive is usually over by 10:30/11,   and you are back in camp (usually either in the pool,   or napping),    and afternoon game drive is later - starting at approx 4:30,   with sundowners at 6:30 - and then if in a private concession - a short spot-lit night drive back to camp for dinner at approx 8pm.    

 

Mornings and evenings are a beautiful temperature at this time of year - it's the mid-day that is tough.   (well......and going from a nice evening temp at dinner and into a "hot" tent to sleep).    

[Peter Connan]

Well, as a self-driver, who is after all on holiday, I don't see why staying in bed is a problem. It's your holiday after all, and if you want to sleep, who else's business is it anyway.

My mom used to stay in camp most of the time, often just going on two or three game drives per holiday. Often we came back into camp having seen nothing, only to be regaled by tales of all the animals that had walked past camp.

 

Again, in a lodge environment where there are multiple vehicles in communication with each other, driving is certainly the best way to see animals as the guides are not just driving around aimlessly. They know the area and knew where all the animals were yesterday or that morning.

 

For a self-driver in an unfamiliar area, often none of the above is true and seeing game is almost entirely a matter of luck, and thus your chances are even or perhaps even better when staying in camp, especially if the camp is next to or close to a water-hole, as so many of them are.