2021 Kwando Safari - Going again - Hopefully this will "scratch the itch" for good (haha)

[Scooter]

"Shake it off    Shake it off"

 

Pom Pom is just simple.      And simply lovely.      After being by myself in very spacious "tents" at Lebala and Lagoon,    the tent here is cozy!   I don't mean small......and certainly not big.   Call me Goldilocks.    This was perfect.          The camp itself was laid out to feel very welcoming.    The water out front was getting smaller and smaller with each hot day.    Only the week before,  the hippos decided to move from the watering hole,   leaving one resident crocodile.       I could sit here on the deck all day,  just watching the elephants go by.   My jeepmates are an adventurous couple from Slovakia,   and  broken English,  we manage to bond  over hockey.

 

A first for me,  is a morning walk.     We took the vehicle out to a very open spot,   and walked in a nice big circle - taking in some of the "smaller things".    It was very informative,  and very peaceful as well.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(from my deck)

 

 

 

 

Edited July 11 by Scooter

[Wild Dogger]

Interesting, so you might have arrived, when I left.

[Scooter]

@Wild Doggerat Lagoon,  do you think??     When I arrived,   it was quite a full camp,   but the following day,   everyone was leaving.    Tell me,   did I perhaps mix you (and everyone else)  a G&T  or grab/open beers one evening haha.    (that would be quite funny wouldn't it?).        There were a number of folks,   from Germany.    Most were serious photographers.      When I arrived, (and it was day 1 for me on Nov26th)   there was only one gentleman who spoke great English,   who was asking about any recent information I had about what was going on in "the outside world",  and he acted as interpreter for the other German travellers.    I knew that KLM were cancelling flights - but only in 3-day increments (so folks had  4 days tops to receive info and pivot).    But everyone was flying Lufthansa,   and I didn't have any information about those flights.        (In the very end,   I also flew home Lufthansa.)

 

 

 

I just went back,  and read through your report.     Your trip would have taken a tremendous amount of emotional fortitude.    My sincere condolences on the loss of Claudia.   

 

And I wonder......if your jeepmates from England,    were then MY jeepmates from England.   (with Matt as our guide)      (they were in the very closest room to the dining,   and I was waayyy further out - I think in Namibia.     We switched rooms when they departed.).     They had been on about 10 previous safaris,   but never to Botswana.    They were on night 11 of a 13 night trip,   and decided to cut it short.

Edited July 11 by Scooter

[Scooter]

There was a lovely family from Denmark.    Husband and wife - sister of the wife,   and both respective daughters (who had been away at University).   They occupied one truck,   and I was the sole occupant of the other.     It was great to have 2 vehicles to help with sightings.    I had the patience to sit with the hunting leopardess,   and we'd radio them if any "action" happened.    And they would return the favour with the lions.    It worked out exceedingly well,   and they were lovely company at dinner and round the fire.       

 

I have to confess to being a bit disappointed when I arrived.     I was "sold" on the fact that this camp would be able to give me the water experience I was after.    I was also told that the game drives were very shy on wildlife,   and to not expect much.     So upon arrival,   to find that the water out front wasn't deep enough for hippos anymore,  and certainly no water activities could happen,   I had resigned myself to a "slow 3 days".      Perhaps the magic is in that mindset.    Not expecting anything.     Being open to whatever comes your way.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had seen damage on the trees before,   but hadn't ever witnessed the "vandalism" in progress.     Was fascinating to see how dextrous those trunks are.

 

 

We were quite a distance back,   so as not to affect this hunt.   The guides warned me this could take ages.   But I wanted to experience it.   (My first REAL sighting of a leopard,   and there was a very good possibility of a kill - I wasn't going anywhere)

 

 

 

 

But ......  she is outed by a troop of vervet monkeys - who just wouldn't rest until the leopard came out into the open.    There was a fabulous stand-off that I was able to video.    She then,   turned her tail in the air,   and went off to sulk. (biding time until darkness gave her the advantage again).     It was an amazing privilege for me to be "allowed" to spend the evening in her close company.    I was blown away by just how "chill" this gal was.   We left her,   seeing she was getting ready to try again.    We'd come back tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

My heart was just full.     Because I was given a private vehicle,  ( because the family of 5 were a private vehicle),    I got to call the shots.    If bf had been along,   there is ZERO chance he would have had the patience to "spend the evening" watching one animal in about 4 locations.    Back at camp,   Phet the manager and I had a great evening......he used to manage at NxaiPan.  He was very emphatic that I HAD to see the zebra migration in green season there...... hmmm.....   again,  I am formulating another itinerary.     We laugh as he tries to teach me to say NxaiPan properly.     This was even before we tried to tackle Xakanaxa.      Fabulous,  fabulous day.

 

[Scooter]

Today,   we set out to see the leopardess.......on our way to a neighbouring concession.    We would have quite a lengthy trek ahead of us.    Let's go!!      We do not see our 'girl',  but we do see she was successful,   as there is a baby impala hoisted in the trees.         I remark to my guide,  Major, and tracker,  Skills  what a wonderful birthday present these sightings have been.     It's your birthday??     (Yes,   but it's not a big one. )       More elephants at the waterhole out front today.     Crashing,  smashing elephants.    Sadly,   my camera and phone are both at the common area charging.    And I cannot get to the common area,   because the elephants are using the path between tents 4&5,   and there seems to be no end to the parade.      Once I am able,   I rush to go capture it.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evening game drive has us getting a radio call,   of a fellow in distress.    He is a researcher for a "famous" company.    Counting the number of black herons in a grid.    But he has gotten himself stuck.     We go to the rescue!!    

 

 

 

(and stuck he is!!!!)

 

 

Turns out,   this will make us late for my birthday party.    

 

Dancing and singing in the bush.    Everyone has come out.   How amazing.     I am speechless (right! lol).       Spotlight drive back to camp,  and dinner has cake,   and more dancing and singing.    We,   all join in (or try to).      I whisper to Major,   that this was so over the top,  and not necessary.    It is 52 for me.....not a really important number (if it was,   I would be celebrating with loved ones).     He explains - we all need this.    Most of us are going home after you leave.    You can feel a very real "release".    It does not feel staged,  or forced.    I cut the cake into 28 pieces,   and we all share.    It is a memory I will hold dear forever.    

 

 

Packed to leave this amazing camp for my next destination,  Kwara.      I cannot help but feel very attached to PomPom.    I know how fabulous the next camp is,   as I've been there before.    But there is some sadness in leaving a spot that surprised me solidly in many ways.       

But hey!!     It was not done delivering yet!!         On the way to the airstrip,   we hear a distant "rasp".      It is my "girl" again!!     And she is calling.    And calling.     Major explains that she is leaving scent for a nearby male.     "So.....a leopard booty-call?"     (This is met with a very straight face,  and I immediately feel sorry).    She is again,  so "chill".    So relaxed with my presence.     And I swear,   she was posing.    In great light,  too!!       What a send-off from PomPom Camp.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[madaboutcheetah]

@Scooter- Ah!! Rhino!! 

 

Atm in the last couple of years, the Western Delta has dried up significantly making places like Pom Pom, Jao Concession etc etc., really game rich.

 

I really need to go experience PP before it gets wet again and take advantage of their bumper Wild dog sightings in recent times - as you'll know from their social media ...... Denning dogs! 

[Scooter]

@madaboutcheetahI have PomPom booked for this November........but man!!   I'd love to be there right now!!    The sightings have been phenomenal!     

I don't think you have to worry about wet season hampering sightings - I seem to recall seeing that January,  and February of this year had some pretty great action.  

[madaboutcheetah]

I didn't mean the summer rains, but, more the floods ...... It was quite wet for many years in the Western delta with more water.  It has gotten more dry in the last couple of years, with significantly less water from the winter flood water from the Angolan Highlands.  Now with more dry areas and subsequent dry flood plains, the game has really moved into these areas .... 

Edited July 15 by madaboutcheetah

[Wild Dogger]

On 7/11/2024 at 6:52 PM, Scooter said:

@Wild Doggerat Lagoon,  do you think??     When I arrived,   it was quite a full camp,   but the following day,   everyone was leaving.    Tell me,   did I perhaps mix you (and everyone else)  a G&T  or grab/open beers one evening haha.    (that would be quite funny wouldn't it?).        There were a number of folks,   from Germany.    Most were serious photographers.      When I arrived, (and it was day 1 for me on Nov26th)   there was only one gentleman who spoke great English,   who was asking about any recent information I had about what was going on in "the outside world",  and he acted as interpreter for the other German travellers.    I knew that KLM were cancelling flights - but only in 3-day increments (so folks had  4 days tops to receive info and pivot).    But everyone was flying Lufthansa,   and I didn't have any information about those flights.        (In the very end,   I also flew home Lufthansa.)

 

 

 

I just went back,  and read through your report.     Your trip would have taken a tremendous amount of emotional fortitude.    My sincere condolences on the loss of Claudia.   

 

And I wonder......if your jeepmates from England,    were then MY jeepmates from England.   (with Matt as our guide)      (they were in the very closest room to the dining,   and I was waayyy further out - I think in Namibia.     We switched rooms when they departed.).     They had been on about 10 previous safaris,   but never to Botswana.    They were on night 11 of a 13 night trip,   and decided to cut it short.

No, on the 26th I was on my way back home (or tried to get home). That´s what I meant, you arrived, I was leaving.
John and Mavis were at that time I think in Vic Falls.

[AndrewB]

3 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

Atm in the last couple of years, the Western Delta has dried up significantly making places like Pom Pom, Jao Concession etc etc., really game rich.

What I was told was that the tectonic plate has sunk about 6mm east to west making the water go further east.

Sort of brought home to me just how flat the whole delta area is.

[Scooter]

9 hours ago, AndrewB said:

What I was told was that the tectonic plate has sunk about 6mm east to west making the water go further east.

Sort of brought home to me just how flat the whole delta area is.

@AndrewBjust 6mm??     Wow!    What an effect such little movement has on the environment there!   

 

It certainly is a "fluid" situation.   (yes,   corny pun intended).     It makes it unpredictable year over year.     (Probably the tour operators would prefer to be able to guarantee to folks that they either will,    or will not have water),    but after this happy "disappointment",   it has taught me to just take what comes.     

[Peter Connan]

What a breath of fresh air this report is!

 

More please!

[Scooter]

Okay!!!!      I love Kwara.     I am not sure,   if it is the area,    or the new luxe digs,    or the game area.     But I love it.      So......many pics.    Without explanation.    4 days here,   and I am in heaven.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 17 by Scooter

[madaboutcheetah]

@Scooter-  I think Kwara is centrally located in the concession and really easy to get to either the Splash side or 4R/ TT side ..... Yup, I love the camp too.  Unfortunately for us guests the management in camp has changed (Charles has got a promotion to Maun office - super happy for him) and Lizzie i don't think is based from Kwara either.  For next time, I am not sure if I will pick Kwara over 4R though. 

[Scooter]

(I picked 4Rivers over Kwara for this upcoming November trip.......I tend to agree with your thoughts).     But I feel  guilty,   because I love this camp.

 

(guilty is not the right word....,  but I somehow feel like I am not being "loyal",   to a camp that has given me so much)

Edited July 17 by Scooter

[Alex The Lion]

On 7/15/2024 at 10:05 AM, AndrewB said:

What I was told was that the tectonic plate has sunk about 6mm east to west making the water go further east.

Sort of brought home to me just how flat the whole delta area is.

 

@AndrewB@Scooter

 

Whilst the plate movements can have an impact in the longer-term (100's of years), though I think it may not have the impact people believe. The water movements in the Delta are also linked to vegetation growth, which is impacted by floods levels and fires.

 

There is an interesting paper on how vegetation can redirect flow. There has been times where blockages were cleared by parks/operators, which has seen the return of the Gomoti.

 

https://journals.ub.bw/index.php/bnr/article/view/2028/1325

 

In the modelling, the more blockages around Kwara - Khwai, the more water gets pushed down the Western Delta via the Boro, and vice versa.

Edited July 19 by Alex The Lion

[Scooter]

Well!    Obviously,   my health has been back on track,   and have been getting caught up on all I missed while I was down and out.    But back to Kwara camp sightings.     What a fantastic morning......to discover a hyena,   carrying a large bone back to somewhere.     Now.....we had 2 choices:    Follow the hyena to the den,    or try to follow the tracks back to where the bone came from.    We chose the latter.   

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This search,    through dew covered grass,     led us to 3 fat male lions.     Stuffed.      A baby giraffe carcass nearby.         Did you get enough to eat Dear??

 

 

Watching him walk......I just was saying in my head "slosh,   slosh,   slosh"

 

 

But,   "do I look fat?"       "you look lovely,  Honey.     I'd call it looking,   "successfull""

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Hads]

What a wonderful report thanks @Scooter, you had fantastic sightings.

POM POM sounds like a wonderful camp, is it more rustic and older than the other Kwando camps?

[madaboutcheetah]

1 hour ago, Hads said:

What a wonderful report thanks @Scooter, you had fantastic sightings.

POM POM sounds like a wonderful camp, is it more rustic and older than the other Kwando camps?

 

I think they are getting a full refurbishment/ re model next year .... 

[Scooter]

1 hour ago, Hads said:

What a wonderful report thanks @Scooter, you had fantastic sightings.

POM POM sounds like a wonderful camp, is it more rustic and older than the other Kwando camps?

This series of photos is from Kwara camp.     But yes,   PomPom is just wonderful,   and it certainly is more rustic than the other Kwando Camps.    But,   as madaboutcheetah is saying,    they are going to "dress it up" next year.     

 

(I have mixed feelings about this).    I realize that camps need to "live up to the times".     But Pom Pom has a following,    of dedicated fans,    that love it just the way it is.    But obviously,   if that is not filling the beds,   then forward it goes.     There were also a bunch of dedicated fans to the old Kwara Camp,   who didn't want that  refurbishment either,     but ultimately,    both are in fabulously amazing wildlife areas.    PomPom on the south side of the delta,   and Kwara on the north.   

[madaboutcheetah]

30 minutes ago, Scooter said:

This series of photos is from Kwara camp.     But yes,   PomPom is just wonderful,   and it certainly is more rustic than the other Kwando Camps.    But,   as madaboutcheetah is saying,    they are going to "dress it up" next year.     

 

(I have mixed feelings about this).    I realize that camps need to "live up to the times".     But Pom Pom has a following,    of dedicated fans,    that love it just the way it is.    But obviously,   if that is not filling the beds,   then forward it goes.     There were also a bunch of dedicated fans to the old Kwara Camp,   who didn't want that  refurbishment either,     but ultimately,    both are in fabulously amazing wildlife areas.    PomPom on the south side of the delta,   and Kwara on the north.   

 

I couldn't get a booking in Pom Pom the last two visits to Botswana .... obviously, it is uber popular especially with the sightings situation.  I have it very high on my list. 

 

[Scooter]

 

On 7/21/2024 at 11:40 PM, madaboutcheetah said:

 

I couldn't get a booking in Pom Pom the last two visits to Botswana .... obviously, it is uber popular especially with the sightings situation.  I have it very high on my list 

 

 

 

Yes,    I feel fortunate to be in,   especially with needing 2 tents,   this November.      I see they've "spruced it up" too.     Taken out the 2nd set of sliding doors,   updated furniture, and window coverings.     Nothing too fancy.     Just perfect.

[marg]

I think that there is a love affair going on with the Kwando camps and STers.  We have had many great trip reports.  And, now many more visits will happen this year.

[Scooter]

How can you tell I'm feeling better??     I haven't been at the computer.     So.......before my trip to Ireland commences  (I don't think there will be much wildlife - but I think I will get to practice my landscape photo skills (which are lacking) - so I am treating it as a photo course),      I figure I better finish off my fabulous,   incredible,    solo trip at Kwara.

 

Now....... things are getting serious.     I have 4 days at Kwara,  and then I am 'supposed' to go home.     KLM is cancelling flights in 3-day increments.     Canada is still not budging on entry.    There are many Canadians trapped in South Africa (there are internet groups to join).     And I am really starting to feel anxious.       

 

I have jeepmates.     And they are dreadfully mismatched with the camp.     She has a flat-iron,  and is cranky it won't work.    She wears high heels,   and a long-length dress (with a slit to the hip) to dinner.    And during my orientation with Lets,    at the pool,     we find her sun lounging in the nude.     Ah hem.    

 

"Lets......may I go use the pool at the other end of Kwara??"      No..... it is too far away.    And no one has been down there in a very long time....there is too much wildlife,   and there is no one monitoring it.        

"OK......well.      If that lady is here nude tomorrow,     just so you know........I am cannonballing my Canadian self into the pool.      This isn't her personal,   private space.     I am quite all right with her being here nude...... but she should be aware,   I will be here.    Gin and tonic in hand."

I think you SHOULD (she says haha).     And then she whispers,    She needs to PUT SOME CLOTHES ON!!       We both have a good giggle as we walk down the path to my room.        

Stop......now,  I should say here,    that these were only my first impressions.    I made very good friends with them in the day and a half that I shared a vehicle.    Different cultures.   Different generations.      But at the end of the day,    they were a lovely couple,   and like I said earlier - just mismatched with a camp.    They offered me their condo in Cape Town,   should I become really stuck.    And they also had friends in Johannesburg,   that they were willing to call to put me up.     Amazingly generous offers.

 

Spectacular wildlife (as always).     Amazing that there were 2 different wild dog packs here at this time.       

 

I am in awe of madaboutcheetah's wild dog pics - I have a terrible time!    So many dogs in a frame.   So much movement.     No one is ever looking toward me.    And when they start moving.......we are always chasing.     So I have a lot of dog tails.       

 

One of the greatest sightings I have ever had,   is of the dog pack targeting a zebra foal in the middle of a herd,   completely willing to defend.     It was just SO high adrenaline.    Then,   they gave up,   and went after a mixed herd of wildebeest/tsetsebe.     Only to find the original zebra coming to help defend.     It was a high adrenalin sighting.   

 

 

 

 

 

You can see what I was going for here.......but my shutter speed wasn't quite slow enough.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ElenaH]

On 7/11/2024 at 4:22 PM, Scooter said:

But I've come up with a few tricks to deal with it,  as this is precisely the time I wish to be there

 @Scooter   Can you share your tricks, please? If you don't mind, of course. I have only two or three: sitting in the pool if there is one, wearing wet clothes and using a portable fan. 

 

I am also curious why the end of November or beginning of December is the time you wish to be in Okavango?

 

I've been once in that time in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and it was, of course, amazing. But it is a different environment.

And once I was in December in Kwnado (Lagoon and Tau Pan) camps, Chobe River Front and Stanley's... The problem was that there were no guests in Lagoon and Tau Pan (and in Stanley's) and it was difficult to find predators becasue the only vehicle which was out was ours. Predators are territoriel so, they will not disappear during the green season. But Kwando concession is big and you need to drive a lot to find lions, for example. On the other hand there was a home-like atmosphere. We often sat with a stuff and talked about everything. In Tau Pan there were more guides as guests - we had a guide. a tracker and a trainee for two of us. 

 

In the Chobe River Front were not too many elephants but also no vehicles so, we had lion sightings for ourselves. 

Everywhere was very hot and we left for game-drives at about 5:00, once at 4:30 in the morning as I remember. But I saw gorgeous flowers and a lot of insects! Yes, I was happy to see termites in my cup of tea, "walking peanuts" on the table and so on ... Flying termites were everywhere. In any case it was a special, very personal home-like time. However, the sightings are better in September-October I would say. But we don't come only for sightings.

 

Why do you like this time to visit Okavango?