Safari tails : Treepol and TreeMum’s adventures in Kruger, Cape Town, Kalahari and elsewhere

[Treepol]

Atravelynn - I will find out about distance and driving time from Sesriem to Bagatelle and let you know

 

Vlad the impala and Zaminoz - the boomslang was indeed a Spotted bush snake, thanks for the comments

 

Jochen - I know that you will have a totally fabulous time in Namibia

 

 

Cape Town and surrounds

 

I booked Mariana Delport of Cape Eco-tours for day trips to the West Coast NP and the Cape of Good Hope. The 20^th August in the West Coast NP is remembered as Small creatures day (1) as we had outstanding bird sightings together with larger animals that were grazing on the flower carpet. We set off from Blackheath Lodge at 8.30 am and headed west where there was a terrific view of Cape Town, unfortunately the mountain was hidden under the table cloth. We stopped at a farm stall and bought sandwiches made from fresh baked bread for lunch. During the day we saw 50+ birds of which the most colourful were the Southern double-collared sunbird Bokmakerie, Cape Weaver

 

 

 

and a Yellow Canary.

 

I really enjoyed the stop at Abrahamskraal hide where the Cape Weavers were completing nests and displaying to attract females. Little grebe, common moorhen and red-knobbed coot were also seen here. A slow birding drive finally took us to Postberg where we admired the scenic view across the lagoon to Langebaan. A small flock of flamingoes wades in the shallows.

 

The flower carpet comprises mostly white, yellow and orange daisies interspersed with a vivid blue flax.

 

 

 

 

Many other varieties that were more familiar to Mum than me were also seen including pelagoniums, hyacinth and pigface. We are lucky to see zebra,

 

 

 

eland, bontebok, springbok and bat-eared foxes.

 

 

After a slow drive through the park we stop for afternoon tea at the coast where the Atlantic breakers thunder against the rocks. The Kelp and Hartlaub’s gulls are oblivious to the waves, preening in the late afternoon sun. We take a short detour to a farm along the Darling Road where blue cranes are foraging at dusk.

 

Next day we had a town day for shopping at the Waterfront and having lunch with Dikdik – it was great to meet another Safaritalker in such a convivial atmosphere. Lunch was upstairs at Quay 4 on the Waterfront with a bird’s eye view of part of the harbour. This was a really enjoyable mini-GTG with good food and company. After the farewells Mum and I did a ‘red bus’ tour of Cape Town which was a great way to see the city on a wet afternoon.

 

Our final day was spent on a trip to Cape Point via Kirstenbosch protea garden. It was cool and green in the gardens which have the Table Mountain massif as a dramatic backdrop. Early in the morning the mist swirled around the peak, and the lawns are still wet with dew. There are many Southern Double-collared sunbirds and Karoo shrub robins. Mum has a great time here as she knows many of the plants and I am taking lots of photos for her Garden Club. Before heading to Cape Point we find the King Protea

 

 

and I am delighted to locate a Malachite Sunbird.

 

 

We drive via Constantia, Hout Bay and Chapman’s Peak Drive to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. Baboons were prowling around the car park at the Cape of Good Hope, paying close attention to a guy who was attempting to pour champagne. Ostriches graze near the sea which is a strange backdrop to this bird that I am used to seeing in bush and desert settings. The Cape of Good Hope is rich in birdlife and I was happy to see Cape Sugarbirds and an Orange-breasted Sunbird. We returned to Cape Town via Simon’s Town and Kalk Bay with a brief stop for the jackass penguins lounging around in the afternoon sun.

 

I can highly recommend Blackheath Lodge which is a welcoming B&B situated under Signal Hill in Sea Point, close to the V&A Waterfront and ‘red bus’ stop 17. The décor is tasteful, room comfortable and the breakfasts are delicious. I recall muesli-topped jam tarts, muffin-sized quiches in filo pastry and honey and cinnamon pancakes in addition to the usual fruit, cereal and English breakfast! My room has a ‘between the buildings’ view of the sea where ships can be seen waiting to enter the harbour. Hadeda ibis are heard every morning.

 

We are up early on the last morning at Blackheath Lodge in order to arrive at the airport in time for the international flight to Walvis Bay. The morning is fine with clear views of Table Mountain. The good weather adds to the scenic 2 hour flight up the coast during which we fly over the West Coast NP and Langebaan. Soon, the land turns to red as the plane flies over the Namibian desert which contrasts sharply with the brilliant blue ocean.

 

Swakopmund

 

Francois Visser collects us at Walvis Bay and drives us to the Hotel Schweizerhaus in Swakopmund. He will return in a few days to guide us through Etosha NP. The first afternoon is spent at some Swakopmund landmarks – the Brauhaus, Swakopmunder Buchhandlung (where I bought the Guide’s Guide to guiding and Hyena nights and Kalahari days) and Art Africa for some gifts to take home.

 

The next day we head out on Tommy Collard’s Living Desert half day tour aka Small Creatures Day (2). The morning was overcast and cold and it was hard for the guides to ‘dig’ the critters out of the sand. However, Francois Loubser is an outstanding desert guide and with the help of the other 2 guides found Fitzsimmons skink, white lady spider,

 

 

 

Palmetto Gecko

 

 

and a shovel-nosed lizard.

 

 

We also saw a Namaqualand chameleon and trac trac chats

 

 

however we missed the sidewinder viper. Returning to town around 2 pm we visited the Krystal Gallerie and met my friend Margaret who manages the Stiltz. We enjoyed dinner and a long chat with her at the Tug that evening as we had 4 years of catching up to do. This tour is highly recommended for an close-up look at the life that goes under the sand as well as an opportunity to spend a short time in the dunes where its possible to gain a sense of the isolation and space that defines Namibia for me.

 

Next day we had a quick tour of the Stiltz where we hope to stay next time, returning to Café Anton at the Hotel Schweizerhaus for a light lunch. The sun is beating down, the palm trees are swaying and some local muso’s are playing 70’s songs at the restaurant next door. All in all it’s a bit of an effort to drag ourselves away to the desert for the Welwitschia Tour with Francois Loubser and Tommy Hall. As we enter the desert we see Ana trees, ostrich ’salad’ and tamarisk. The welwitschia is a strange plant with long fibrous leaves. Brightly coloured assassin beetles and welwitschia bugs crawl over the central cones in the plant. Wildlife seen on this trip includes rock martins, white-faced mousebirds, gray lourie, springbok and ostrich.

 

The Schweizerhaus is a clean, comfortable and well maintained property. Some aviary birds in the central courtyard are a long way from home – blue and yellow macaw, turquoise fronted parrot and budgerigars. The budgerigars come and go as they please, I found it strangely familiar to open the bathroom window each morning to be greeted by these iconic Australian birds. There were also 2 African Gray parrots, one of whom had developed a number of strategies to enter the ground floor rooms where he liked to bite guest’s toes. Café Anton on the ground floor has a sunny terrace and serves delicious cakes and pastries throughout the day. The downside of this place is that the restaurant closes at 7 pm, there is no room service and no tea and coffee making facilities in the rooms. The hotel is quite central and there are several restaurants within walking distance.

 

 

 

Next up: Etosha

[Atravelynn]

Atravelynn - I will find out about distance and driving time from Sesriem to Bagatelle and let you know

 

Next up: Etosha

 

You are more responsive than one of the Namibian agents I was using. Thanks and no hurry.

 

The colors are fantastic, from flowers to lizards. The desert makes one think of neutral, subdued tones, not the bursts of color you have here. That's great you got to connect with Dikdik. I know he made an effort to try to arrange a gathering in August. Hard to do with all our schedules and routings. But it appears you, your Mom, and Dikdik managed a get-together lunch after all.

Edited October 14, 2012 by Atravelynn

[twaffle]

Love the foxes amongst the flowers, what a sighting. Enjoying this very much.

[Bugs]

Great photo of the malachite sunbird. - what a beauty.

 

Ahh - Postberg - embarrassed to say that I didn't do the flower route this year.

 

BTW - those are no ordinary Zebra - its the Mountain Zebra; - less common, and they have more stripes.

[Sangeeta]

Agree with twaffle on the foxes in the flowers image. That is such a great backdrop.

 

Very impressed with the thought that went behind planning your itin, Pol.

[Treepol]

- atravelynn, twaffle, dikdik and Sangeeta thanks for following along. Atravelynn, Bagatelle is 350-400km from Sesriem over both gravel and tar roads.

 

 

Etosha NP

 

Francois Visser arrived at 8 am and we set off on the 500 km journey to Etosha, stopping for lunch at Oppi-Koppi Restcamp at Kamanjab for lunch. There was a tree shading the swimming pool from which dozens of weaver nests were suspended – the family dogs drink from the pool during the heat of the day. We entered Etosha through the western Galton Gate around 3 pm and settled in for a leisurely afternoon drive to Dolomite Camp, our home for the night. Burchell’s zebra, oryx, springbok, elephant and rhino are seen during the afternoon.

 

 

At Renostervlei we see a very old female elephant with oryx and zebra for company and at Rateldraf the viewing is modest with just 2 kori bustards and a retreating jackal.

 

Dolomite Camp is built over a kopje and has sweeping views both east and west. The vehicle was left at the base of the kopje and Mum and I ‘ascended’ in the golf buggy with the luggage. My home is Tent 16 which has about 50 steps down from the pathway. This camp resembles a mid-range luxury safari camp with smart safari décor and soft furnishings. Making notes on the deck I can see giraffe, oryz, zebra and eles on the plains below.

 

Next morning I am up early to watch the sunrise. A dassie rat is quietly feeding on the rocks below. During the trip to Okaukuejo we add red hartebeest, Hartmann’s zebra, steenbok, kudu, ostrich, duiker, warthog, ground squirrels and Namaqua sandgrouse to our Etosha sightings. We pull into a picnic site and I immediately notice many small striped mice, one of which poses for photos before having a nibble at Mum’s ankle.

 

 

Near Okaukuejo there is some vulture and jackal activity around the sorry remains of a springbok kill,

 

 

and even closer to the camp there is a dead zebra with no obvious injuries. Maybe it died of snakebite, anthrax or old age. The Okondeka pride are ‘at home’ on the pan and we are privileged to see 2 handsome males, 3 large females, 3 young females and 5 cubs sharing the pan with ostrich and pied crows.

 

 

A large monitor lizard is our last sighting before camp. Tonight Mum and I are in Waterhole Chalet 34 from where we have a birds-eye view of the Okaukuejo Waterhole where eles, rhino, giraffe, oryx, jackals and kori visit during the evening. Francois and Timmy (a guide friend of Francois) cook a delicious dinner of pork fillet, chops, steamed vegetables and beer bread.

 

Next morning breakfast is at 6.30 at the restaurant before we set out to explore the waterholes east of Okaukuejo. At Homod a large group of zebra are warily watching the waterhole, caught between their need to drink and the danger they sense – through the binoculars we see 2 large male lions asleep under the trees on the far side of the waterhole. We see our first black-face impala around Homod. Further on 5 lions are lying close to the road at Salvadora (3 females and 2 young males) however they look as though they will be there all day so we head to Aus, where the landscape is eerily deserted, not even a zebra or ostrich to provide entertainment. Returned to camp for lunch where Francois spoiled us with fresh fruit and cheese platters served on the terrace of our chalet.

 

We joined Timmy at Olifantsblad where he was hopeful of a leopard sighting. I see a large flock of guinea fowl and some red-billed teal before we hear of a pride of lion near the Leeubrun turn-off. A short trip finds the lions and we sit watching 2 males, 4 females and 2 young cubs in the late afternoon sun. Francois cooked roast beer chicken, lemon potatoes and butternut for dinner.

 

The next day I was up at 5 am as Francois and I are making an early visit to Okondeka returning via the Leeubrun turn-off in search of lion. No luck, but we had a pleasant drive and saw good numbers of zebra, springbok, oryx, ostrich and a pair of rock kestrels. Back at Okaukuejo waterhole there are a pair of tawny eagles perched high in a tree and a large dazzle of zebra at the waters edge.

 

 

The morning game drive east towards Namutoni is fairly quiet, the Salvadora lions are laid up in the shade of some rushes and only a young male is occasionally visible.

 

Rietfontein really turned on the ele action with a large herd bathing at the waterhole. Another herd approached the water and sent a ‘scout’ to check on the eles already at the waterhole.

 

 

Three young eles detach themselves and approach the new arrivals, they clearly knew each other and shared the waterhole without any fuss. Later a smaller family of 4 eles also joined in. This was a major highlight for Mum who had decided that eles were definitely her favourite animal. Further along the road we see 2 large elephants near the edge of the pan, and we stop the engine to allow a ghostly grey bull plod across in front of the vehicle.

 

 

We arrive at Namutoni, check in and immediately head out to Chudop waterhole where I was hopeful of seeing lion, however this was not to be. This afternoon, Chudop is giraffe central and their relaxed drinking indicates that no predators are nearby.

 

 

The only other wildlife are kori bustards and guinea fowl. A group of banded mongoose is scurrying home towards Namutoni in the late afternoon. Dinner tonight is a buffet by candlelight inside the fort. I was last here in 2008 and I thought the rooms are looking tired and dated. The verandah gates at the front of each unit no longer lock and there is a crack in the wall over the door. Later I discover a burst water pipe in the bathroom.

 

I got up early the next morning and walked around the campsite in search of birds and banded mongoose and was lucky with groundscraper thrush [photo], gray lourie and yellow-billed hornbills. A family of banded mongoose, possibly the same that we saw last night, forages for breakfast. Their bands remind me of the photos of the extinct Tasmanian tiger.

 

 

A short trip around Dikdik drive where we see several dikdiks, giraffe and zebra, completes our Etosha trip. We leave the park before 9 am and stop for fuel at Tsumeb where we pick up a young girl and her dog that are hitch-hiking to Swakopmund for the weekend. She is a Peace Corps volunteer working at a local orphanage where she hopes to create some sources of revenue to support the running costs. Afternoon tea was at Carstenson’s in Otjiwarongo where the apple cake was as good as I remembered!

 

The Safari Court Hotel in Windhoek is home for a night – the hotel has had a facelift with new carpet, bathroom tiles and curtains. Francois took us to Joe’s Beer House for dinner where it was ‘hellish busy’. Next day we shopped at Maerua Mall until it was time to depart for Bagatelle Game Ranch in the Kalahari, about 300 km south of Windhoek.

Edited October 17, 2012 by Treepol

[twaffle]

Love those zebras and giraffe, how spectacular would that have been!

[Atravelynn]

Thanks for the distance info.

 

Ankle nibbling mice are closer than I care to get to the wild creatures. What did Mum do? The herds at the waterholes are wonderful.

[Treepol]

- former member and twaffle, I just caught the zebra and oryx in the last moments of the sunrise before the pink glow disappeared. The action at Etosha waterholes throughout the trip was a constant surprise. So many wildebeest, zebra, springbok and impala milling around the waterholes throughout the park provided many wondrous moments.

 

- atravelynn, Mum said 'hurry up and take the photo if you must!'

 

 

 

Bagatelle Game Ranch

 

At Bagatelle the red Kalahari sand contrasts sharply with the blue, blue sky and wildlife wanders near the lodge. We arrive at lunchtime and are ‘welcomed’ by a pair of springbok lying in the shade near the lodge gate to welcome us. Lunch today is tasty bobotie and Greek salad. The main reason we were at Bagatell is that Mum had meerkats on her wishlist, and semi-habituated colony here was a good bet for seeing these animals.

 

We traverse the red dunes during the afternoon game drive where giraffe, oryx,

 

 

springbok, kudu

 

 

and ostrich graze in the late afternoon sun. Francois is the unofficial sundowner ‘host’, chatting easily with everyone, offering drinks and pouring wine. Whilst the sunset is quite ordinary this evening the full moon over the pan (the pan at Bagatelle is second to Etosha) with wildebeest in the foreground is spectacular. Dinner is in the boma where we eat zucchini salad, springbok (shot on the property and served every night), beef, veg and malva pudding.

 

Next morning we are up at 6am in order to be waiting at the burrow when the meerkats arise. Francois carries director’s chairs for us and we carry our tea and wait quietly until 7.15 when the first heads appear out of the burrows. The meerkats warm up in the early morning sun.

 

 

 

 

 

before scampering off, tails held high for the day’s foraging.

 

 

Some cheeky ground squirrels also live in the vicinity. We return for breakfast and afterwards spend some relaxing time at the pool where a greater scimitarbill is searching for insects in the bark of a shady palm tree.

 

 

Later in the morning Francois takes us for a drive on the smaller 3,000 hectare part of Bagatelle where we see springbok, kudu, oryx, steenbok and a rabbit. The yellow acacia flowers contrast dramatically with the red sand and blue sky. During the afternoon a monitor is spotted on the outside of the cheetah enclosure.

 

I was looking forward to the afternoon activity which is cheetah feeding. Ralph, Etosha and Tswana are on loan from the Cheetah Conservation Fund. None of these animals can fend for themselves so they will remain at Bagatelle indefinitely. The cheetahs have an uncanny sense of time and are eagerly awaiting the game drive vehicles. The vehicles ‘run’ the cheetah, by driving from one of the compound to the other, the cheetahs follow as they know the meat is in the vehicles. I saw this at the De Wildt sanctuary in 2008 where it is thought that exercise before feeding cheetahs mimics the wild hunt that a cheetah would usually have to undertake before eating. According to the De Wildt staff, the exercise is also thought to minimise stomach problems in captive cheetahs. We were allowed out of the vehicle to observe the feeding cheetahs at close quarters.

 

 

A young African wildcat is seen for the first time deep inside a thorny bush, the guide says he will creep out after we and the cheetahs have left to scavenge any scraps that have been left.

 

Next morning after meerkat viewing

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Mum and Francois at the meerkat colony)

 

Mum opts for a lazy day at the lodge and I join the morning drive and saw the usual suspects - kudu, oryx, springbok. However we are lucky this morning to also see the eland herd with 2 calves, the red hartebeest and a pair of nesting ostriches. A lilac breasted roller and a grey hornbill are also out in the sun. Back at the lodge I decide to laze around the pool until cheetah feeding at 4.30.

 

 

Charl, the Manager takes us spotlighting after dinner and we see scrub and spring hares, a good sighting of a lesser spotted genet and 2 bat-eared foxes.

 

Our last Bagatelle breakfast is eaten early in order to arrive back in Windhoek by lunchtime. Mum and I go shopping at Maerua Mall before meeting Francois at Mugg and Bean. He has arranged a township tour of Katatura with an operator named Sean who owns a guesthouse on the outskirts of Katatura and has plans for a restaurant and conference centre. We visit Penduka and purchase handcrafts made by the women and have cool drinks by the lake at the former Yacht Club. Sean drives us through Klein Windhoek and Eros before returning us to the hotel. The contrast between these affluent suburbs and the township is stark.

 

Bagatelle has recently been sold, and the owners Fred and Onie Jacobs have moved to Swakopmund. The new owner is the guy from Intu Afrika which is a game farm down the road. The takeover had been delayed due to the new owner's ill health. The Jacobs were retaining part of Bagatelle on which to run a game farm and Charl, the Manager was going to work on the game farm. Enrico, the office manager was leaving to work on cruise boats. Fred Jacobs was returning to Bagatelle shortly after we left to keep an eye on the place in the new owner's absence. Given these major changes, it is to be hoped that the high standard of accommodation and game viewing that we enjoyed are maintained.

 

Next day we return to Johannesburg for an overnight and then fly to Richards Bay for our final stop at Phinda Forest Lodge.

Edited January 6, 2019 by Tdgraves
a

[Atravelynn]

That orange background gives a comic book look to the meerkats, although they are rather comical all by themselves. Change of mgmt at Bagatelle. Something to be aware of and hopefully the transition goes smoothly. Thanks for mentioning that.

 

Interesting comments on aiding cheetah digestion. Makes perfect sense.

 

Hilarious ankle nibbling photo. That's one that needs a "Caption this" thread.

 

My offerings:

 

Who turned out the lights?

Who moved my cheese?

Well, I didn't leave my car keys in here.

[ovenbird]

I see London, I see France

I see Mum's underpants

 

What a great pic!

[Sangeeta]

The meerkat pics are simply terrific. But the mouse peering up mum's trousers are the best

Your mum was braver than most!

 

If you hear anything about the Bagatelle transition, please keep us posted.

Thanks, Pol. Enjoying this very much.

 

[Treepol]

atravelyn - I like who moved my cheese!

 

ovenbird - haven't heard that one before, but a friend has explained that it is a skipping rope rhyme

 

sangeeta - Jochen will be back in the next week or so, he may have more info on the immediate transition to the new owner at Bagatelle

 

 

 

 

Phinda Forest Lodge

 

We leave a dull and overcast Johannesburg and eventually land in Richards Bay – the pilot is doubtful about landing at all due to poor visibility. However a successful northern approach pays off and we are met by the transfer driver for the 2 hour trip to Phinda. During the drive there is heavy rain – a sad forerunner of things to come. We arrive at Forest Lodge and I immediately opt for a ‘between rain showers’ game drive with Benson and Nsika. The highlight is a large male leopard and other animals see included my first white-tailed mongoose, followed by red duiker and suni. Sadly, the rain cuts the drive short and continues throughout the night.

 

Next day we manage a short game drive (nyala, impala, wildebeest and giraffe) between 12-2pm until rain once again forces us indoors, dripping wet. No further game drives are possible this day which is disappointing, to say nothing of expensive as we booked a private vehicle. My frustration rose to Chernobyl level as the chirpy, cheery camp managers observed how relaxed I looked reading at the fire – and would I like another drink? No, I want to shout – its 5 pm and I want to be on a game drive not relaxing around the fire!

 

Next morning Benson rings at 6am to say it isn’t raining and that we will go out – tea, coffee and rusks are delivered to our bungalows much to the delight of the resident vervets. The best sighting is a female cheetah with 3 cubs that have a young nyala kill.

 

 

 

 

We stayed with this group for around 25 minutes - I was delighted to see cheetah cubs with ‘manes’ at last, another first. Other sightings include wildebeest, warthog, nyala, impala, zebra, giraffe, little bee-eater and yellow-throated longclaw. Once again we arrive back at the Lodge very wet. Sadly, no further game drives are possible due to rain, however between showers Benson takes me for a walk around in front of the lodge where we look at scats, footprints, a potato bush (good to have this identified at last) and check out the elephant damage to the trees and lala palms.

 

The next day we head out bravely and once again it is raining within 5 minutes of leaving the lodge, but we do manage sightings of rhino, a herd of impala tucked in under a tree sheltering from the rain (we didn’t have a tree), the ubiquitous nyala and the northern pride. What luck! I was amazed at the size of one of the lionesses that Benson estimated to weigh between 200-250 kilos. The 5 and 6 month old cubs were well grown for their age – they seemed to be as big as the 15-18 month old cubs that I remember from Shindzela last year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Late in the morning the rain cleared, and blue sky muscled out the grey clouds. Benson stopped to show us a hingeback tortoise on the way back to the Lodge.

 

After lunch we head out for our first proper ‘dry’ game drive. Benson located the lions and did some bundu bashing to get us close to a nyala kill, where 2 cubs are gnawing on the scant remains of the unlucky animal.

 

 

The highlight of the afternoon was a long sighting of 2 cheetah brothers, one of whom has an injured paw.

 

 

 

The injury hampers his mobility which in turn interferes with his hunting ability. Consequently, the uninjured brother is the main provider for the pair.

 

Later we enjoyed a good elephant sighting before locating 4 white rhino grazing in the afternoon sun. A flock of pink-backed pelicans flies overhead at sunset

 

 

and the game drive concludes with sightings of a dwarf chameleon (how did Benson spot that?)

 

 

and a slow-moving puff adder.

 

 

All too soon our last day dawns, the sky is clear and the sun is warm so we head out on a final game drive. First we see a Burchell’s coucal enjoying the sun and I notice that the many cobwebs are all covered in with morning dew that catches the sun’s rays. We discover the tracks of the Northern pride and locate the adults resting amongst the fragrant curry bush.

 

 

 

Eventually they re-unite with the cubs and we are treated to lion cub playtime,

 

 

even the male lion stoically bears this boisterous behaviour.

 

 

A small herd of zebra move out from the cover of the dense bush now that the rain has gone. Mum is delighted to spend the last moments of the safari with a small herd of grazing elephants and my attention is drawn to a crowned hornbill perched above the road. Benson extended the game drive for as long as possible, but eventually we head back to the Lodge for a final brunch and to await the transfer which is the first stage in the long journey home.

[ovenbird]

Pol, yes it is a childhood rhyme in the US...sorry, I forgot it certainly isn't known globally. Parents used this ditty to let their young kids know when they were showing a little too much! I looked for a sound file but couldn't find one...it's just a very sing songy taunting tune.

 

Wonderful meerkat, lion and cheetah shots. I love the small animals Benson found for you.

[Bugs]

WOW great cheetah shot.

 

In fact great photos all round.

[Atravelynn]

Is the wounded cheetah paw being allowed to heal naturally? Was any intervention mentioned? Great cheetahs and the pelicans, wow!

 

How disappointing if you had not been able to land at Richard's Bay. Do you know if that airport is plagued by fog or clouds?

 

Funny how children's verses differ from continent to continent. I think the tune to Ring Around the Rosy is a similar tune to the I See London.

[twaffle]

That cheetah in golden light is a wonderful photo and I think your mum is a good sport. I good mention many of the photos as being really, really good, but will just say that I enjoyed them all. Disappointing with the rain spoiling the last few days on safari but that's the way it goes some days. That long journey home is a bummer.

[Treepol]

Thanks to everyone for the interest and kind comments.

 

Atravelynn - Benson said this was an old injury that occurred in the bush rather than any man-made problem. As no assistance had been given before now I doubt any will be given in future for this same injury. I don't know about weather patterns at Richards Bay, I just wish we hadn't run into this one!

 

Twaffle - Mum is a very good sport! "That long journey home is a bummer. "

 

Director’s cut

 

I’ve just phoned Mum to get her ‘off the cuff’ memories of the safari. Firstly, she said the safari far exceeded her expectations and that she ‘liked absolutely everything.’ Her favourite sightings were:

• A very old female ele alone at Renostervlei in Western Etosha;
  
• All of the young animals, especially elephant calves and the lion cubs at Phinda;
  
• Elephant action at Rietfontein in Etosha;
  
• Blackheath Lodge in Cape Town; and
  
• Phinda because of the forest setting, friendly staff and Benson our guide.
  

Thankfully, the safari was a huge success and Mum is keen to return in 2014. This itinerary provided an opportunity to see all the iconic safari animals with the exception of the flamingo lakes, gorillas and chimpanzees.

 

Mum’s 2014 wishlist:

• As many animals as possible; and
  
• How people live.
  

This trip had some very specific requirements because it was to be Mum’s first and probably only African safari (huh!, we know what happens when newbies say this). The itinerary was scoped to:

• Concentrate game viewing in wildlife rich areas such as Kruger and Etosha;
  
• Provide experience of a number of natural environments;
  
• Provide experience of a number of accommodation styles; and
  
• Provide the opportunity to view the maximum number of species.
  

The standard of travel had to be:

• Comfortable, no extended periods of uber rough roads;
  
• Non-confronting, so no mobile or unfenced camps;
  
• Relaxed pace with private guides to allow last minute changes to daily arrangements, with limited consecutive early starts or long travel days; and
  
• Homely, with single accommodation and home cooked food where possible.
  

It was difficult at times knowing what to include in the itinerary as everything was new to Mum. When I asked if she would like to do something she would agree, and one day she added “I’m saying yes because it sounds wonderful, but I don’t really know what I’m saying yes to.” It was hard for me to gauge her expectation and hard for Mum to get an idea of what she could expect on safari because photos only show so much.

 

With my safari ‘shopping list’ in hand I consulted the experts and trawled through my memory and photos from 4 previous safaris (6 months in total). Ewan Masson said

“Go to Kruger, she will see everything there”

 

I thought OK, and said that I supposed that I could guide and drive – Ewan said “Why not email my sister, she’s a guide.”

 

I thought “Fantastic”.

 

I emailed Shelagh and she quickly agreed to guide us through Kruger, Hluhluwe-Umfolozi and St Lucia with a drop-off in Durban. Shelagh’s first email contained this assurance:

 

“the tours that I do are much more laid back than Ewan’s! We get up when we want to and the whole situation is different.”

 

Shelagh hired a Hyundai people-mover and drove us around for 13 days, during which time she cooked, guided, packed and unpacked the car. We truly appreciate how hard she worked to make a memorable safari for us.

 

Gemma Dry was very helpful planning and booking the Namibian sector.

 

Therefore, Kruger was included on Ewan’s advice, Hluhluwe-Umfolozi and St Lucia due to my positive experiences in these places in 2005. Mum was very keen to go to Cape Town as she had seen an interesting documentary on TV that intrigued her. I consulted TA and Lonely Planet for upmarket B&Bs close to the Waterfront and settled on Blackheath Lodge because of its location, price, consistently positive reviews on TA and the photos on the website.

 

I hired Mariana Delport of Cape Eco-tours based on positive traveller reviews and her informative website. Mariana was extremely responsive to my many emails and we were able to tailor day trips to the West Coast NP for the wildflowers and to Cape Point. The West Coast trip was included because Mum is a keen gardener and is a member of a Garden Club. St Lucia, Cape Town and Swakopmund were ‘town stays’, 3 and 4 night stops that allowed a break from spending long days in a vehicle, and some opportunities for souvenir and gift shopping. In hindsight, there were probably too many ‘town’ nights in the itinerary and we could probably have done without St Lucia although the half day trip into Isimangaliso was very worthwhile for wildlife, birds and scenery.

 

Gemma Dry of Discover Namibia booked the Namibian sector of the trip. I chose Gemma due to the consistently positive feedback from other travelers and her own knowledgeable posts on Fodor’s where she is generous with help and advice. Gemma was quick to respond to emails and made useful suggestions for adding extra days, which in the end we did not take up – this trip. During February Gemma undertook a mammoth familiarization of 19 Namibian lodges in 14 days so I was confident that her opinion of accommodations was first-hand.

 

I wanted to return to Swakopmund because I have enjoyed 2 previous visits and it is a convenient starting point for the trip to Etosha NP. The Schweizerhaus Hotel was chosen because of its convenient location close to the shopping area and the beach footpath, price, patisserie (!) and (sort-of) palm terrace. Tommy Collard’s half-day excursions to the Living Desert and the Welwischia tour were a good introduction to the arid Namibian environment and provided a window into the wildlife of this harsh environment.

 

We stayed at 3 Etosha camps in order to minimise driving time and maximize waterhole time. A Premier Waterhole chalet allowed Mum a birds-eye view of the waterhole at Okaukuejo. Etosha is an excellent park for viewing large herds of antelope species, elephant and there is a decent population of lion. Rhino are also possible. The dry conditions, lack of cover around the waterholes, and good road network make a visit to this park a rewarding experience. Mum said ‘Why go to Kruger when you can go to Etosha’ because the wildlife was more easily observed in the latter.

 

We spent 2 ‘transit’ nights at the Safari Court Hotel because of the price, the shuttle that drops guests in the Windhoek CBD and at Maerua Mall. The rooms are comfortable and the restaurant food is OK.

 

Bagatelle Game Lodge was included because Mum asked to see meerkats and there is a semi-habituated colony very close to the lodge. Bagatelle has received consistently good reviews from other travelers (thanks pault) and being situated on the edge of the Kalahari is an authentic ‘red sand and blue sky’ experience. The captive cheetahs provide a wonderful opportunity for a close-up experience of these animals that can be hard to find in the wild.

 

Phinda Forest Lodge was chosen for an upmarket lodge experience, and as wildlife ‘insurance’. If we missed any major species or had poor sightings I was hopeful that Forest Lodge would provide a grand finale to the safari.

 

The O R Tambo Airport City Lodge is a reasonably priced airport hotel. It’s located a short walk from the airport complex (undercover all the way) and porters were happy to show us the way and manage the bags. It’s a short walk to the airport Mugg & Bean or the coffee shop in the hotel that serves a limited but good range of light meals.

 

 

Some thoughts for 2014

 

Mashatu for a fantastic tented camp experience

 

Kenya for:

• Flamingo lakes
  
• Hands-on giraffe experience at the giraffe centre
  
• Sheldrick orphanage
  
• Aberdares for forest animals
  
• Ithumba for elephants
  

Back blocks of Namibia that might include:

• Direct flight to Walvis Bay from Joberg
  
• Swakopmund
  
• Cape Cross Lodge for seals and an ‘edge of the continent’ experience
  
• Sesfontein Fort for the hot springs at Warmquelle and desert elephants (if we’re lucky) in the Hoanib valley
  
• A Damaraland lodge such as Camp Kipwe or Mowani Mountain Lodge
  
• Kavita Lion Lodge
  
• Etosha
  
• Shamvura in the Caprivi Strip for carmine bee-eaters
  
• Mahengo GR for sable, reedbuck, bushbuck, waterbuck, red lechwe and perhaps sitatunga.
  
• Kaudom NP, a big maybe
  
• Erindi
  

[twaffle]

Excellent round up of the why and wherefore of choices made and thoughts on future plans. I always enjoy the planning stage, make the safari seem longer.

[Atravelynn]

Thanks for the cheetah paw info. So Mum's looking forward to Mashatu?

[Treepol]

Mum is looking forward to everything in the 2014 trip!

[johnkok]

Enjoyed your TR. It also brought back somewhat fresh memories. I was in Phinda Vlei in April this year. We sat and waited with the Northern Pride for an absolute age as they slept. Our guide Gavin said there was a good chance they would hunt as they had last fed almost 2 or 3 days ago. So we were happy to wait. As Murphy would have it, news came in on the radio that a huge storm was coming in from the south, and large hail stones were also reported. We decided to stick it out for as long as we could. We were rewarded with the pride waking, the mummies going to collect their cubs, the all round joy and playfulness they displayed, drinking, and then the storm raged on us. Boy, did we pay for it - but not as much as Gavin and our tracker. The vehicle had no roof but we could huddle under some rain ponchos (we still got absolutely soaking wet - I really feared for my equipment) but Gavin had to drive and was trying to speed as much as he dared to get us back to the Lodge. So he was hit by the largest hail stones I had seen in Africa (actually the only ones I had seen in Africa) and there were a few thuds and ows. Even under cover, we had a few small bruises.

 

But here is the Titan as I call her - easily the largest lioness I have ever seen. I have her here walking past one of the males (which was by no means puny as you know). She is further away from the camera than he is, but she looks just as big, if not bigger. Were you not amazed? I sure was.

[Atravelynn]

Your Phinda cheetah cubs are down to two. They have moved north from the south and it was in the north that one was lost. Not sure in what area you saw them. The two looked healthy.

[Treepol]

Lynn, that is sad news.

 

We saw the cheetah cubs within 30 minutes drive from the lodge. There was so much rain in September that our game drives were constrained by road conditions and we didn't venture into the north at all.

 

Did you have Benson as your ranger - if so, how is he getting on?

[Atravelynn]

Did not see Benson, though I did request him. Sorry no word. BUT I was able to visit with Thulani. He is studying to be a biology/English/tourism teacher. Isn't that a perfect match of skills and profession? Anyway he was on break from his schooling and was able to pop in for brunch and was planning on doing some substitute guiding over the holidays so that other guides could enjoy time off. He was welcomed back by all.

 

Happier news is that 2-3 very young cubs were spotted not far from Mountain Lodge. I didn't see them, though.

 

Back to sad, there were 3 young cubs killed just a week or so before I arrived.

 

That's nature. Overall, the thought was slightly fewer cheetahs than when I was there in 2007. But that was part of the natural fluctuations and within normal range. Will do a report.