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You bet your WILD ASSES India has LIONS & TIGERS & BEARS, Oh My!


Atravelynn

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Game Warden

I want to go to India...

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Really? Do you take the pills before and after the flight? or do the pills just help you sleep on the plane and you are all set when you get off the long flight?

 

Oh no, they don't knock you off to sleep in the plane! You chew 1 pill every 2 "waking" hours, and it essentially take off the fatigue. What I do is start taking them before boarding and continue till 6 hrs. after landing at point B. So there's no stress to time your sleep etc. on the plane. And it homeopathic, so no side effects.

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madaboutcheetah

Thanks a lot for the info -

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Brian's Art for Animals

EXCELLENT report Lynn, I felt as if I was right there..oh wait I was :)

Great photos and very good descriptions of everything. I can't wait to see the hyena photo.

To answer the zone questions:

Of the three current Bandhavgarh zones, TALA is said to be the best by far for tiger sightings, although you never know their movements, this zone just seems to be the best habitat for them. I would someday like to see the other zones at least once. We had guests who had drives on the other two zones and to put it bluntly, they were not happy at all. (during our week there the Tala zone was by far the best.)

The guests complained that they (the other zones) seemed like a dirt race track to go around and around in while you prayed a tiger would cross somewhere. I still wouldn't mind seeing them once, and some have had success in them if you read other sites. As well as I think the other zones are your only hope for some species like the Guar.

But in my opinion since I was flying to India only for a 9 days, I wanted the best chance possible while in the park, so I am very happy Wild World India booked the Tala zone which should be done ahead of time since it is the most popular zone.

The Tala zone has routes B/D or A/C. You learn your route right before you go into the park for your 4 hour am drive or 3 hour pm drive.

You can switch directions as well and they can give you C/A or D/B and they do their best to make sure everyone plays by the rules. The tigers in Tala seem to either sleep or be walking around all 4 of the routes. A,B,C,D. I guess I will have to go back to my videos to see if one path really weas better than the others. I don't think most drivers have a choice, but our experienced guide seemed to be able at times to ask for a/c or b/d. They all were scenic and had good sightings of wildlife.

There is one strip of street that all four routes and two zones meet up. We did see a tiger here and it was one heck of a time playing for position, you just have to trust that your jeep driver knows what they are doing.

I hope this helps.

Edited by Brian's Art for Animals
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madaboutcheetah

Brian, great Information ...... Many thanks!!!!

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Wonderful report Lynn, very envious. Love the tiger photos and that peacock looks like it posed just for you. I certainly know which tour operator I'll use when I get to India.

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Atravelynn

Those links I posted in this report to Brian's videos all seem to be his first one, even though I thought I chose the mugger one for Chambal, for example.

 

Brian gave an excellent detailed response to Hari's Bandhavgarh routing and routine. There are enough tigers in Bandhavgarh to keep the different routes interesting, at least in theory. I think Rajesh said there were estimated to be 57 or 59 tigers now and the habitat could hold something like 90. My notes are at home and I am not.

 

The one time a sighting did get very crowded was when it was at the intersection of two Tala routes (like B&D) and also a shared road with one of the non-Tala zones. It was triple the normal # of people. There were no loud noises though. I guess the rules on shouting are now strictly enforced. But coughing is not regulated. It seemed as though an epidemic of whooping cough had spread through the parked vehicles.

 

I recall the same tiger family being in A&C in the morning and then B&D the afternoon, so what is the ideal route at one point can suddenly change.

 

Shreyas, the sloth bear herd is just pathetic. Just envisioning such a thing is upsetting. The anti-jet lag pills could be a big help. Thanks!

 

About Air India--shortly after getting home, I read they were on strike. Yikes, just missed it. During the trip, the scroll on the bottom of the news screen stated 40 Kingfisher pilots had walked off the job so that there were lots of cancelled flights. That had me concerned, but no real upsets in my itinerary, despite lots of cancellations and reschedules for various reasons.

 

Thanks for the nice comments. When you click enough shots, there are bound to be some posing animals in the lot. The real talent is catching them in flight or leaping or running.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Atravelynn

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The fact that the middle cub is elusive in the photo actually bolsters my pride because I was able to spot it in the field. I drew around it in blue and outlined the eye.

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Atravelynn

Wanted to include the fact that the Chambal River motorboat trip provided life jackets.

 

A video account of the above is here: http://safaritalk.ne...6-safari-india/

 

 

 

Getting from Bandhavgarh to Sasan Gir and QUOTE OF THE TRIP

 

The logistics to get from Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradesh toSasan Gir National Park in Gujarat began with an extremely early departure due to the first of several flight changes and cancellations (all communicated to me or accommodated by WWI when possible).

 

 

The result of one flight change resulted in THE QUOTE OF THE TRIP. I was informed I'd be receiving awake up call at "2 in the midnight." A perfect description for that ungodly hour! Sort of like the military slang of "zero dark thirty," which just happened to be the time I departed Bandhavgarh for the 3 plus hour drive to Jabalpur's airport. I was a groggy messof bedhead and disorientation, trying to sleep in the back seat and fighting aseat belt that was not meant to strap a body horizontally. In stark contrast,the driver exhibited a perky good nature and (thank goodness) alertness.

 

 

 

So…drive to Jabalpur Airport, fly to Delhi, delayed flight to Mumbai and unexpected layover in Delhi, Randhir from WWI comes to the rescue with car and driver to whisk me away from the airport for a personally escorted visit to Hauz Khas village and ancient ruins, a quick shopping trip for some kurtis and salwars (long shirt and loose trousers) for me and gifts for family/friends, fly to Mumbai, transfer to airport hotel, make a late night call to front desk asking if they heard the same gunshots outside my window thatI did, receive explanation that it was just celebratory wedding fireworks, morning transfer back to Mumbai airport, flight to Diu via a stop in Bhavnagar, but it was too hazy to land in Bhavnagar so we just bypassed it to the chagrin of about 25% of the passengers on the plane, and headed on to Diu.

 

On the final approach to Dui's runway we were low enough thatI could see the treetops and in that arid environment the trees are not tall. Suddenly, we thrust back up into the air. Landing aborted. We circled around and on the second try we gave up on a landing well before the treetops were in view and again ascendedinto another big circle. The third try was the charm and the landing drew applause from us all.

 

CB, my driver/guide/friend from last year's trip was at the airport to greet me. Soon after, so was most of the city of Diu! They weren't assembled for me personally but apparently hundreds of them enjoy watching the plane come in. Their presence helped explain our two unsuccessful landing attempts with a couple of theories. #1 The short runway that ends in the ocean isthe cause of frequent aborted landings and therefore attracts a crowd towitness the aerial displays. #2 The presence of a cheering crowd encourages flight maneuvers to reward their enthusiasm. I hope the reason is #1.

 

 

 

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Welcoming party at Diu

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Atravelynn

When to visit Gujarat

 

When I asked those in the know on the ground, I was told the best time to visit was a month or two earlier than my trip, in Jan and Feb because:

There is less chance for haze, which can interfere with flights, which was just demonstrated by the flyover of Bhavnagar. Although Diu was clear enough to land--eventually.

 

It is cooler and more comfortable for guests.

 

The cooler temps mean the black bucks of Velavadar do not sit under trees from mid morning to late afternoon and instead are more visible for longer periods of time.

 

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Sitting Black Buck in Velavadar

 

The cooler temps mean the wild asses of Little Rann of Kutch can be found on the rann (expansive dirt fields) all day long and not just when they venture across from one patch of thicket to another in the morning.

 

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Wild asses in thicket in early morning in Little Rann of Kutch

 

 

Earlier in the season there are pans of water in Velavadar, which allow the strategy of waiting by the water in the afternoon for the wolves and hyenas to drink.

 

There are a lot more flamingos on the lake in LRK in Jan-Feb than mid-March.

 

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Flamingos in Nawa Talab Lake

 

In LRK, the fields are irrigated in Jan and Feb, which attracts the thirsty asses. By mid-March a lot of the fields have been harvested and are dry so the asses seek water in more remote and thickly vegetated regions of the park where viewing them is tougher. I did see a small herd in one cotton field and the asses were munching on the leftovers from the harvest, a lucky sighting.

 

 

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Wild asses in harvested cotton filed in Little Rann of Kutch

 

 

The farmers don't start harvesting and burning fields until about mid-March, so haze is avoided earlier in the year. In Gir, March is a perfect time for animals to be visible and accessible, but we did battle smoky haze at times during the stay. In some cases my photos of distant lions were obscured, but the unusual hazy effect actually contributed to my favorite photo of the trip.

 

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Lioness in Gir, note hazy, smokey background

 

The smokey background and afternoon light on a young nilgai gave sort of enchanted forest look. I almost didn't take that shot because I had been advised that there were a lot more nilgai in Velavadar than Gir, which was true. Glad I adhered to snap now, you can always delete later rule.

 

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Young Nilgai in Gir

 

I was thrilled with what I saw and photographed at three parks in Gujarat for the week of March 20-27 and I was told that even in June guests at LRK were able to see and photograph wild asses, but Jan-Feb is apparently ideal. One thing I don't know is rates in Jan-Feb vs. March-April.

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Atravelynn

Camera Fees in Gujarat

 

I encountered minimal camera fees at monuments throughout India and at the sloth bear sanctuary, but I never was asked to pay a fee at any other Indian park outside of Gujarat on this trip or the previous one. The fee figures below all apply to amateur photographers, not professionals or filmmakers. The Gujarat fees were strictly enforced, sometimes cameras inspected and receipts were given. I was required to pay in rupees, even though the Gujarat fees were assessed in dollars.

 

Gir = $10 per camera/cam corder per game drive if the camera is 7 megapixels or more. Under 7 megapixels, there is no camera fee. When I did 3 game drives per day that was $30 per 7+ megapixel camera per day. Seemed excessive to me.

 

Velavadar = $10 per camera of any megapixel size per day, not per game drive. Camcorders are free. (That seemed odd.) There is an unfenced buffer area adjacent to Black Buck Lodge and right across the street from the park, which does not charge for cameras and allows off roading. From a money saving point of view, it is best to visit the buffer zone on a day that you will not be entering the park at all because a one-time camera fee inside the park covers the whole day. If you're going to pay the fee, you might as well get a full day's use out of it.

 

Little Rann of Kutch = no camera fees

 

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Free photo in LRK

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Atravelynn

Sasan Gir

 

From the beach in Diu (very near the airport) to the Gir Park entrance was 2.25 hours and then to Gir Birding Lodge was another 20 minutes. Gir Birding Lodge is located in a grove of mangos and other fruit trees. It is not as fancy as Tiger Lagoon, but very nice and completely adequate. The huge banyan tree at the entrance produced bird species such as the lovely Coppersmith Barbet. Gir Birding Lodge is a perfect place to stay in Gir.

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Banyan Tree in front of Gir Birding Lodge Restaurant

 

The deluxe cottage locations all seemed equal to me. Depending on which of the 6 park gates were used, it was 30 seconds to 10 minutes to enter the park from the lodge.

 

There were so many people visiting the park that an option for an additional late morning (9:15ish to 11:30ish) game drive was added and WWI alerted me about this before I left home. Guests who hoped to book their game drives upon arrival in Gir were often disappointed by the lack of availability, especially for a.m. drives. I ended up taking another guest in my vehicle on two occasions, on terms we negotiated, because she could not find one open vehicle seat morning or afternoon.

 

 

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Female Sambur deer, almost doing a gerenuk

The designated routes (numbered 1-6, each with their own entrance gate) kept vehicles well dispersed so it did not seem crowded. Routes were randomly assigned in advance. I did all the routes at least once and recall #4 being my favorite for scenery and #1 being the least favorite because it mainly meandered through villages. But lions could be anywhere, including the village. I saw lions about 20 meters from the local Maldharis and park employees who share the forest with the predators. The close proximity of lions and humans is a unique feature of the park and the subject of books and documentaries.

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Red naped Ibis

 

On most drives CB accompanied me to point out birds and spot animals. It was good to have him along when the driver and naturalist, also randomly assigned, were not very enthusiastic, which was the case sometimes in this particular park. Of course, it was always nice to have the company and expertise of CB!

 

 

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Atravelynn

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The 8 Gir drives I took went as follows: #1 afternoon = 5 lionesses in the distance, behind brush—the smokey atmosphere and vegetation made for ok viewing but bad pictures, none shown; 2 lionesses and 2 cubs near the road providing good views; first sightings of a new species for me: nilgai or blue buck.

 

 

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#2 morning = male lion walking on the road and into the forest, no keeper photos.

 

#3 late morning = close view of langurs, no lions.

 

#4 afternoon = male lion sitting in a ravine; in another part of the park a male and female lion resting on rocks.

 

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#5 early morning = sambur in a creek, muggers and gharial, a drinking peahen. Peacocks, especially peahens, were prolific in the park, but shy about getting their picture taken.

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#6 late morning = pride of 6 lions, including a cub. About 11:15 am in the heat of the day, as we were wrapping up the game drive, we saw one of the biggest male leopards I've ever seen under a tree, but he did not stick around for nice photos.

 

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.............................................................................................................................................................Just to prove there was a leopard

 

#7 afternoon = returned to the scene of the disappearing leopard and CB, the naturalist, and driver saw him briefly, but I did not. Big drive for nightjars, about 5 of them. Another vehicle broke down and we came to the rescue to try to fix it and when that did not work, to shuttle the occupants back to civilization. As a result we were in the park after closing time, until well after 7:00 pm. A prime opportunity for wildlife, but we saw nothing. In contrast, our leopard had been out in the midday sun and heat when we least expected it.

 

#8 early morning = This was my most enchanting Gir outing in part because the naturalist and driver were passionate about wildlife. We watched a young male lion walk slowly on the road and through a dry riverbed, with no other vehicles around. Then we found a pair of rare (endemic to Sasan Gir) and beautiful Mottled Owls in a tree and sat with them for half an hour.

 

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....................................................................................................................................................................Mottled Owls

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Atravelynn

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oriental white eye, jungle owlet, brahimny starling, white eyed buzzard, night jars

How exciting to see 20 Asiatic lions and get some photos of males, females, and cubs. The odds of seeing lions in Gir are high because in addition to the naturalist and driver, there are also roving rangers looking for lions on foot. They radio their findings to the vehicles.

 

Lion viewing that is monitored by the rangers is somewhat frustrating because they limit each vehicle to about 2 minutes. If the lions move while you are still queued up awaiting your turn, too bad. With only about 410 Asiatic lions left, I understand that interactions need to be regulated for the good of the species. Finding your own lion, as we did with the pair of cubs the first eve and the lone male on the last day, is a far superior experience to the ranger supervised viewings.

 

For lion fans who like to linger with the beasts on the open savannas, such as those found in the Serengeti, Maasai Mara, or Botswana's Duba Plains, Sasan Gir could prove a disappointment. For lion fans who want to appreciate the species in its Asian habitat, Gir is the only show in town for these beautiful cats. It's a privilege to see the only lions on the Asian continent in their natural habitat. Long live the lions of India!

 

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Edited by Atravelynn
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What a treat this report is. You really saw so much more than I realized one would in these parks. I'm impressed that you saw so many Lions in Gir (plus a leopard too). Great report, Thanks Lynn!

Edited by PT123
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Atravelynn

I was impressed too, PT123. I was hoping for a couple of lions on the Asian continentand ended up with much more. I added the late morning drives to increase my odds.

 

 

 

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Female Nilgai and 3 female Black Buck in Velavadar

Velavadar

 

It took about 3.5 hours to drive from Gir to Black Buck Lodge in Velavader, stopping enroute for our only Chinkara (Indian gazelle) of the trip.

 

 

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Chinkara (Indian Gazelle)

 

 

As we neared our destination, I became concerned with the scrubby, barren landscape that did not seem like it would support much wildlife, much less herds of antelope. At the time I did not know Velavadar is the only tropical grassland in India to be given the status of a national park. But I did know that Velavadar is the world's largest communal roosting site for harriers. Three kinds of harriers are regularly seen, and we saw lots of each: Eurasian Marsh Harrier, Montagu Harrier, and Pallid Harrier. Even though mid-March is not prime time for the largest harrier numbers, there was frequently one of the harriers taking off, flying, or landing within our view. Close harrier sightings and photos were a bit tricky, though.

 

 

 

 

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These are the Montagu Harriers

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Atravelynn

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Black Buck in buffer zone

 

When we pulled onto the grounds of Black Buck Lodge I spotted a dark figure in the distance, my first black buck! While I needed binocs to view this one, the sightings that followed were certainly not at arm's length, as these are shy creatures that prefer to keep their distance and love to turn tail and walk away.

 

Architectural Digest should be paying Black Buck Lodge a visit any day now. The rooms blend in beautifully with stark habitat in exquisite style. The cottages are top notch works of art inside and out! My Cottage #5 seemed to have the ideal location to view the black buck herd that rested out back in the shade each afternoon.

 

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There are a couple of wild cats that hang out around the lodge's pond and I was shown one in the evening. Sometimes hyenas drink at the pond too. Then there is Mr. Boo Boo, the resident nilgai who lost his mother at a young age and was taken in by the staff. There is one employee of which he is especially fond, but Mr. Boo Boo enjoys the company of everyone and loves to lick arms. He is a real people person. I was told he has his own facebook page but I could not find it.

 

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Black Buck Lodge is only 5 minutes from the park entrance. There is some very basic lodging just inside the park gate and while I don't have rate info, I was told the cost difference between Black Buck Lodge and the park rooms was only $80/night more for Black Buck--$79 more if you drink tea.

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Atravelynn

Velavadar drives:

 

#1 afternoon = We chose the buffer zone with no camera fees. The advantage is you can go off road and get closer than inside the park, but the animals are shyer in this buffer zone. We concentrated on black buck. We saw no other vehicle the entire afternoon.

 

 

All of these Black Buck photos are from the buffer zone rather than Velavadar park

 

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Young Black Buck is not black yet

 

 

An Indian hare drinking along the roadside rounded out our day.

 

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Atravelynn

#2 morning = Inside the park. The location where you are most likely to see the striped hyena is a good distance away from where you are most likely to see the Indian wolves. Since morning is the best time to see each, you sort of have to choose. A short drive into the park as part of a 3-vehicle caravan yielded a distant striped hyena that disappeared (probably into its den) after about 10 minutes. The other vehicles stuck around for 3 minutes out of the 10 minute sighting.

 

 

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We focused on black bucks next and then saw something running in the distance. Binocs confirmed it was an Indian wolf with prey in its mouth. A wild cat sighting ended a successful morning.

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Atravelynn

#3 afternoon = Inside the park. Nice light for nilgai by the dozens and black buck. The same hyena (we surmise) appeared again and we followed it at a great distance for several kilometers. We even got permission to remain in the park after hours to try to keep the hyena in our sights, but it disappeared. I don't' think we saw another vehicle that afternoon.

Two hyena sightings in one day is very good.

 

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Note the tongue out

 

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Nilgai inside Velavadar

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That drinking hare has to be a first on any TR, Lynn. Fantastic!!

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Wonderful report.

 

PT123, I'm sure it is predictive text or something more sinister but what word was 'ipreseed' supposed to be?

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Those asses really are pretty - I never knew. And how wonderful and special to see lions in Asia. Ranger-monitored viewing sounds horrible but as you said they are the only show in town (continent).

 

The flight sounds quite frightening - two attempts is bearable but three is just too much.

 

Excellent additional information as always.

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And the Black Bucks are evern prettier!

 

I didn't realise there was another page.

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kittykat23uk

Kittykat, you snuck in there between posts. Do you have your itinerary and # of days yet?

 

In case anyone missed my thread, here is the itinery for my trip- still looking for some more people to join me!

 

http://safaritalk.net/topic/8203-gujarat-and-tadoba-now-with-fully-priced-out-itinery/page__st__20

 

We can hope to see what Lynn saw on her trip. :D

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