Kenya Discovered. A Safari Talk Inspired Safari

[penolva]

After lunch we set off to follow the Talek River north as we hadn't been that way before. Another lovely afternoon/evening and we enjoyed the drive. There were plenty of animals around and we spent time watching them. We were in no hurry as we guessed we had had our quota of sightings for the day. Then we saw this!

 

 

The size of him! The biggest leopard we had seen, a magnificent animal. He was not happy to see us and growled loudly at us! Why was that? Then we noticed 

 

 

Another leopard beside him, a mating pair. OMG even Josh was overwhelmed. No one else around. We were transfixed and very very excited to see something like this. She moved out into the open. What a pretty girl. Josh said he had not seen either of them before.

 

 

 

My other half started to get higher in the vehicle to capture them from a better angle. Josh said "stay still! The male can be VERY dangerous when mating". Other half got down again super quick 

 

The male stood up and gave us a hard stare

 

I think he looks really sad on the last one. "Why are you interupting my romance?" or was he going to attack us? He remained calm and the next moment they both disappeared into the bushes and we could hear 'romance' happening, loudly. Josh moved the vehicle and I was able to get this one photograph. See how she wraps her tail around him.

 

 

 

 They disappeared down towards the river and out of sight. We didn't drive around trying to spot them and disturb them again. They had given us half an hour of magic. Us, two leopards and Josh. You hope to see something like this but doubt you ever will so we think we are extremely lucky.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 16, 2018 by penolva

[Game Warden]

From post #36...

 

On 09/01/2018 at 2:07 PM, penolva said:

WOW, we couldn't believe our luck.

 

@penolva how many times did you think/say that on this trip? More super sightings on your Safari Talk inspired Safari

[penolva]

6 minutes ago, Game Warden said:

From post #36...

 

 

@penolva how many times did you think/say that on this trip? More super sightings on your Safari Talk inspired Safari

Ha ha every hour of every day I think!

[penolva]

We continued driving north and found this lion. Was it the same one from the other day Blackie? There is another one around called Lipstick and I think it may have been him. He decided to go for a drink. 

 

 

We passed a few vehicles who told us there was a cheetah on its own up ahead. They had obviously missed these little beauties. Gorgeous lion cubs playing in the evening light. Their mother and the rest of the pride were in the rocks and bushes behind. I think they are absolutely beautiful cubs, so healthy and obviously enjoying life. I particularly love the one biting the others head, that expression

 

 

We saw lots of elephants in the Mara many in breeding herds. This mother and baby reminded me that before long we would be spending time with the orphan elephants at the Sheldrik orphanage and at Umani Springs and Ithumba. How could anyone hurt them?

 

We eventually found the cheetah. Josh didn't know why it was on its own but it looked very healthy and was rolling around in the grass. Probably trying to get rid of ticks and insects. There were vehicles there marked with 'Cheetah Project' on them and they had lots of video and big still photograph equipment. Set up by the Kenya Wildlife Trust they are monitoring the cheetah population in the MM.

 

 

A lovely sunset as we returned to camp ended a fantastic day. We have to share the camp from tomorrow as two ladies from the USA are arriving.

 

[penolva]

The ladies from the USA were hilarious. They had never been to Africa before, well Morocco but we didn't count that! They found everything terrifying and screamed loudly when they saw a bug, spider or when a leaf moved. They wanted to see a river crossing and during their three nights at camp that was all they were going to do, so Josh was right, some people only come for the river crossings. Fair enough but they do miss so much doing that.

 

We set off towards the area where Bahati and the cubs were but no sign. Nearby were two beautiful blonde lions and they made a failed attempt to hunt a hippo. The hippo turned round and charged them. Never seen a lion run so fast! They must be the reason Bahati has taken the cubs away to a safer area.

 

 

A movement caught our eye and there was a jackal den. The pups were coming out and were very cute and interested in us. A little further on we saw what we thought was a dead lion. He was very much alive except he had eaten so much of the buffalo, nearby, he had blown up like a balloon. It would probably take him a couple of days to digest all that meal.

 

 

Not being birders we are not sure what these two are? An eagle and probably a kingfisher?

 

 

We decided to head down to the river as Josh had got word a large herd were gathering. We passed a 'tower' or is it a 'journey' of giraffe who gave us some hard stares and then a lone cheetah again. Not sure if it was the same one from last night.

 

 

Josh got a call and then said 'Do you want to see the famous cheetah Malaika and her cubs?". Yes please!

Edited January 18, 2018 by penolva

[michael-ibk]

I want to see Mailaika as well! 

 

The birds you asked about are (probably) a Tawny Eagle and a Grey-Headed Kingfisher.

[penolva]

55 minutes ago, michael-ibk said:

I want to see Mailaika as well! 

 

The birds you asked about are (probably) a Tawny Eagle and a Grey-Headed Kingfisher.

Thanks @michael-ibk I photograph them but usually have no idea which ones they are! ? Malaika coming up. 

[AmyT]

Love the cubs and jackal pups! 

What camera do you use?  Nosy me!

 

[penolva]

Hi @AmyT not nosy at all! Its a Canon 5D Mark 3 with a 70-200 Canon lens. Pen

[penolva]

A short distance away we stopped beside Malaika and her cubs. I can't remember which one she is but I think the one on the left as there is no 'honey badger' mane. Maybe someone can confirm? Her cubs were big and about to leave her and make their own way in the world. 

 

 

We continued down to the river and saw another crossing but on the way back we 'saw' her again so here are the photographs from that sighting. If it was her she had moved the carcass but I am not at all sure although Josh said it was Malaika again. Is it?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Alexander33]

On 1/14/2018 at 8:19 AM, penolva said:

 

We both thanked Josh for the lovely drive and for the perfect day. Makes you glad to be alive!

 

 

The perfect sentiment, and one we should all be reminded of periodically. 

 

Bahati and her cubs are magnificent. What special sightings you had of them!

 

Edit: Same goes for Malaika and her cubs!

 

Edited January 19, 2018 by Alexander33

[penolva]

3 hours ago, Alexander33 said:

 

The perfect sentiment, and one we should all be reminded of periodically. 

 

Bahati and her cubs are magnificent. What special sightings you had of them!

 

Edit: Same goes for Malaika and her cubs!

 

@Alexander33 thank you for reading my trip report and for confirming it was the famous Malaika. Pen

[Alexander33]

@penolva

 

Thanks, Pen, but I think you are giving me far too much credit. I was just taking Josh's word for it. I've never had the pleasure of actually seeing Malaika in person, and would never presume to have the expertise to "spot" her on the basis of photos alone!

[penolva]

After leaving Malaika and the cubs we headed down to the river and the Lookout crossing area. A dik dik stopped to look at us and we also passed a typical scene in the Mara of various animals quietly grazing. Everywhere around the Talek river and the plains between it and the Mara river were teaming with animals. With the grasses, sunshine, blue skies and the open Land Rover every drive was special. 

 

 

At the river the wildebeest were gathering although there were hardly any vehicles for some reason. We were able to get into a good position and after a short time they started to run down the bank beside us towards the river.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They jumped from quite a height throwing themselves in to the water. There was a small island in the middle of the river. After most of the herd had crossed a baby got separated from its mother. It ended up on its own on the small island crying out. Its mother came back to the opposite bank and called but then ran off. The little one didn't know what to do and turned back to the wrong side alone. Things like that always make me sad.

 

 

[penolva]

We set off for camp for our last dinner. It was very sad but we had already decided to come back next year on our way to South Africa. Maybe not to Brians camp as we wanted to find somewhere less expensive but we hoped Josh could still be our guide.

 

We saw three vehicles parked beside a big tree and there was leopard number 9! He was lying across the branch of the tree enjoying the evening sunlight. Of course you never know if it is in fact a leopard you saw before but it was in a completely different area so it counts 

 

 

We crossed the little river just before the turning to camp when Josh said 'there is a leopard under that tree!". Number 10! There was the smallest one we had ever seen. All on its own  as usual I immediately started worrying about it. Where was its mother? Would it be there all night? Josh explained that the mothers stash the babies away while they hunt and this little guy had decided to come out and have a look at the humans. He soon went back into cover. Back at camp Brian had arrived and it was nice to meet him. He wanted to hear all about our trip and was very pleased we had been so lucky with our sightings. He had not seen mating leopards so close himself and was jealous. He has seen everything as he was brought up in Kenya. He even had a leopard on the veranda of his house which is a short drive from his camp!

 

The baby leopard. It still has blue eyes it was so young.

 

 

Edited January 21, 2018 by penolva

[anocn4]

Very envious with your sighting, especially the crossing ones. It's classic!

[penolva]

15 hours ago, anocn4 said:

Very envious with your sighting, especially the crossing ones. It's classic!

Thanks @anocn4 considering we didn’t go out of our way to see crossings we did pretty well. At that time of year you would be very unlucky to miss seeing the amazing spectacle of hundreds of wildebeest leaping from the banks of the Mara River. Pen

[penolva]

Our last morning and we had a short game drive as Josh had to meet new clients at the airstrip at 11am. We set off towards the river and soon found some very active lions enjoying the kill they probaly made during the night. The cubs were very playful and one had a piece of bone that it held in his paws exactly like my cat does with her little ball. We loved the way the lioness put up with the rough and tumble. It looked as if one lioness was blind in one eye but it may have just been the way the light caught it.

 

 

 

The cub with the bone 'toy'

 

 

Interested in us!

 

 

Playful cubs and adults in that perfect morning light. Always worth getting up in the dark for!

 

 

We reluctantly left them as time was rushing by. As we passed the Serena lodge on the opposite bank we noticed a cheetah sitting on a mound surveying the scene. It jumped down and was joined by its partner and they both posed beautifully for us. What lovely animals so healthy, bright eyed and bushy tailed. 

 

 

 

They walked towards the river but decided not to drink but gave us a great view as they walked past our vehicle.

 

 

 

 

After a while they went back to one of the mounds and sat as a small group of elephants passed by. This photograph is one of my favourites of the trip as it shows the Mara in all its glory with two of my favourite animals in the same shot. 

 

 

Everyone was on a mound this morning.

 

Down to the river for a last look and we found these hippo cuddled up with big smiles on their faces!

 

 

A final view of the migration covering the golden plains. We went back to camp for lunch and 5 others arrived. It made us realise how lucky we had been to have the camp to ourselves for so long. We said goodbye to Josh who had been the best guide we ever had! We hope to see him again.

 

We flew back to Nairobi for two nights to visit the orphanage again and the Giraffe Centre. We stayed at Purdy Arms where we had left some of our luggage. Although its a bit shabby chic the Purdy is very comfortable, in a lovely area of the city with beautiful gardens. The food is very good and we would recommend the Twiga suite. We used it as our base during the trip and stayed there a total of 6 nights.

 

 

That's all from the Mara. I have made my book of this part of the trip and am starting on the second book which will cover our time at Petra's place, Sandai Farm, and our trips from there to the Aberdare's ,Solio, Samburu etc and will  also cover our trip to Amboselli, Nairobi National Park and the Giraffe Centre.

 

Once I have finished the book I will start a new trip report Kenya Discovered. A Safari Talk Inspired Safari Part 2.

 

In Part 3 I will cover the time spent at the DSWT with our orphan elephants in Nairobi, Umani Springs and Ithumba.

 

Thanks to everyone who commented and 'liked' my photographs etc. We have booked for 6 more nights in the Mara in September this year before we go onto South Africa to do another self drive in Kruger, Mapungubwe and Marakele National Parks staying in SanParks accommodation as usual. Its really easy to fly from London to Nairobi and onto Johannesburg and then home from Johannesburg with KLM and their partners. 

 

If anyone has any questions just ask and thanks for reading. Pen

Edited January 23, 2018 by penolva

[Amylovescritters]

Lovely TR. Thanks for sharing the experience!

[penolva]

2 hours ago, Amylovescritters said:

Lovely TR. Thanks for sharing the experience!

@Amylovescritters thanks glad you enjoyed it! 

[Treepol]

@penolva thanks for your Mara TR and the tip about Brian's camp. I am so looking forward to your adventures around Sandai.

 

Where did you decide to stay on your next trip in September?

[penolva]

57 minutes ago, Treepol said:

@penolva thanks for your Mara TR and the tip about Brian's camp. I am so looking forward to your adventures around Sandai.

 

Where did you decide to stay on your next trip in September?

@Treepol Thanks for reading. Sandai etc coming soon.

 

We have decided on Malaika camp. They sent me proof of their permission to operate and the price is good. At the end of the day as long as the beds are clean and comfortable, the shower works and the food is reasonable that’s all you need. I hope they deliver. I also like that they are beside the Mara River. We will take our own private vehicle and guide. Pen

[elefromoz]

@penolva, I really like the pano of the Elephant family walking in with the Herds in the background, to me that just defines the Plains. I too would be worrying for those little Cubs in that drain, hope that Mum knows what's she's doing. The Vultures and Hyenas are great, so much personality.

[Ratdcoops]

Was great following your report you definitely had some great sitings. How lucky to get the mating pair of Leopard.

I  like that photo of the Zebra in front of the Wildebeest herd a lot . I don't know anything about photography and what makes a good photo but that one really appealed to me. 

Thanks @penolva

 

[penolva]

8 hours ago, elefromoz said:

@penolva, I really like the pano of the Elephant family walking in with the Herds in the background, to me that just defines the Plains. I too would be worrying for those little Cubs in that drain, hope that Mum knows what's she's doing. The Vultures and Hyenas are great, so much personality.

Thanks @elefromoz its nice to know you had a favourite and I loved that one as well. Such fantastic panoramas in the Mara as its so open compared to the Serengeti. I still think about those little cubs and the little leopard come to that  I worry too much which is one of the reasons I am not at all unhappy that, to date, we have not seen an actual kill only the aftermath maybe 5 minutes later. Vultures and Hyenas are as beautiful as all the others in their own way aren't they! Pen