Jump to content

Mana Magic 2.0. - A Return to the Best Place in the World


michael-ibk

Recommended Posts

After two great weeks in Zambia´s Kafue National Park (see report in progress here) @AndMic, our guide @Doug Macdonald and me moved on from Lusaka to Zimbabwe. We had five nights on the flood plains and two more at Kanga Camp to look forward to, and our anticipation was high indeed. Our 2015 trip had been our most exciting safari ever. Walking into close distance of animals like Elephants and Lions had really changed our perceptions of what a safari can be. But it was not only anticipation we felt, also concern. They say you cannot home again, and could a second trip really live up to what we had experienced two years ago? Or would we always compare and think, yes, very nice, but last time ...?

 

large_TR2.JPG.db6d259178cdde5edbbc4234aa

 

Well, come with us, and I let you be the judge of that. B)

 

We left Lusaka (which is actually closer to the park than Harare) late morning. The border post at Chirundu has a bit of a bad reputation but for us it was a pleasant enough experience. The room is climatized, all officers were friendly and professional (like everywhere in Zimbabwe so for for us), and the whole procedure didn´t last much longer than half an hour. Granted, we didn´t have to check through a car (of course Doug took care of that) but we were pleasantly surprised.

 

Zambia had already been very, very hot but nothing like here. As we approached the park the airstream from the car felt more like a hairdryer, and we knew we were in for some hot times in Mana Pools. The temperature was somewhere between 45° and 50 ° Celsius (as it would be in the coming days). It was actually a relief to drive up the mountain a bit to get our permits.

 

large_TR1.JPG.2abb58bbf7c221af8253d6badb

 

It was almost 15:00 when we finally entered the park, and still had the long gravel road ahead of us.

 

large_TR3.JPG.2fcd4c473f434ac4aa4f170e46

 

I wanted to use the facilites at the second gate, but quickly retreated when my planned entrance provoked a lot of shrieking and unfriendly hissing - a troop of baboons had made the toilet their home. And shockingly, they did not even adhere to the most basic rules in there - Lady, can´t you read?

 

large_TR4.JPG.8a97239ea4773d32b37655fe0a

 

We arrived at the Flood Plains at about 16:45 and were happy to leave the dusty bonedry hinterland behind us. Here in the vicinity of the mighty Zambezi life abunded, lots of Impalas, Baboons, Elephants everywhere. We did not take pictures since we would have plenty of opportunities for the regulars later but just had to stop for this majestic Kudu:

 

large_TR5.JPG.e588d8b73f4b8efc0e6e7a8fbd

 

large_TR6.JPG.8719d0cad3a1eb6282659957b6

 

large_TR7.JPG.1f7021b497e0bb5e95749dd04f

 

Doug took care of the paperworks at headquarters, while we were happy enough watching our favourites, the Carmines dashing across the sky. A staff member also pointed out a Hyena hiding in a distant bush to us. We moved on to get to camp, it had been a long day, we were hungry, sweaty and tired.

 

large_TR11.JPG.aa800ffb82394ffda1a63df06

 

Still, we had to do a quick stop at Chisasiko, one of the "mana" permanent pools of the park. Surely some nice birds are there. But -  wait, what is that over there?

 

large_TR13.JPG.31dc161e5c7dbcd04d8afc38f

 

No, not you, grumpy old daggy boy, nicely decorated as you are by Egrets.

 

large_TR17.JPG.e8470e217c1510102e634256a

 

large_TR12.JPG.f65f6cb9099b423f3556efd42

 

A big fine male Leopard was playing welcome present for us!

 

large_TR14.JPG.855035830504fe32291dc63a1

 

We were thrilled!

 

large_TR15.JPG.522ffa7a1f024567580c232d1

 

Leopard sightings are not exactly a Mana Pools staple, and this guy was even pretty relaxed.

 

large_TR16.JPG.97c97c59223373dbadc91c948

 

Doug felt that the number of Baboons has been decreasing a bit (maybe because they are on the Dogs´ menu now) and speculated that might prompt the Spotted Cats to become a bit bolder.

 

large_TR8.JPG.15a1fd173366d457bfb5be5395

 

Did not matter to us why, he was here, all ours (an unshared sighting) and we were grins all over!

 

large_TR9.JPG.426dc1a3a8e28abc75a4cffa5a

 

Big Boy gave us a good ten minutes until he retreated.

 

large_TR19.JPG.7d4f1681928fbb9301d4f03fd

 

We celebrated at the river banks. I had so looked forward to stand by the Zambezi again, I think it´s one of the most beautiful places in the world. Everything there is good and peaceful and as it should be. At least it felt that way. It dawned, and the sinking sun was becoming less and less visible through the strong haze. Well, we were overdue in camp anyway, and just took a last look at the Elephants congregating.

 

large_TR20.JPG.ede5f3cf67faaa814e27dfc26

 

But never a quiet moment in Mana Pools. "Quick, quick, spill down your beers, Gentlemen, get in, get in, no time to lose!" Why the rush?

 

large_TR21.JPG.d6c938460365957dc974f82b1

 

Yeah, Doug had spotted the Dogs, Mana´s main stars. We were thrilled again to see them! While pretty likely to find them in dry season (Doug says six out of eight visits) they are not a given, and last time we only found them at noon, doing the Lion thing - nothing. This time, even if the light was gone, they were active, probably on their way to hunt.

 

large_TR22.JPG.387d9b1d3723815c2b82e9380

 

And they had their pups with them.

 

large_TR23.JPG.2d6618d5ae08d2ab4d6494195

 

We could not watch them for long, they soon left the road, and it was already way too late to try to follow them, so we finally, finally proceeded to camp. They had actually already started to worry about us there, being so late, but we had no complaints - First 90 minutes of Flood Plains Excitement had not been half-bad. And we thought "Wow, cool, last time we did not even see a Leopard! And only saw the Dogs lying around."

 

Of course, it was a day to be celebrated with Gin Tonic(s). B)

 

Edited by michael-ibk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@michael-ibk

I have been looking forward to you reports - but I didn't expect you to write two at once!

a great start - the leopard in the warm light with the emerald green plants is beautiful, and the dogs. Wow!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ooh yay, been waiting for your reports too - and like @TonyQ didn't expect the fun of two at once! will have to go back and forth but I certainly don't mind! What a great beginning at Mana with the leopard AND the dogs - wow! But those temperatures you describe! It was around 40 when I was there and that was quite hot enough for me! Looking forward to more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 degrees??? Is that even possible? :o   Well, I'm looking forward to this one too although its making me feel really guilty, you doing two at once and I haven't gotten my Zambia trip report started!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

madaboutcheetah

Look forward to this report, Michael ........ Did you go to Chitake too?  Not sure it was your post on Facebook, or someone else's of cheetah seen there ........ Thanks for this report!

Hari.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, that was a HOT welcome and a sizzling welcome from leopard and dogs, no less! great beginnings spell greater moments ahead, surely? :P

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seniortraveller

Really not sure I should be reading this, after our recent visit following the rains.?

Looking forward to another wonderful report from you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great start..look forward to this one from mana ! :-) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@michael-ibk

 

I always look forward to a Mana trip report.  A welcome party from a leopard and the dogs  -  can it get better??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, @TonyQ, @SafariChick, @janzin, @madaboutcheetah, @Kitsafari, @Seniortraveller, @bushbaby and @Zim Girl!

 

No Hari, unfortunately we could not make it to Chitake this time. I forgot to include our dates for Mana btw, we were there Oct 17th - 24th.

 

@anocn4 Yes, it was really hot but of course those are the peaks of the day temperature, noon, early afternoon. You´re well advised to lie under a shady tree and do absolutely nothing then. It´s quite manageable during game drives, and walking was ok as well. For some nights it would cool down enough to sleep peacefully but I´ll admit some others were quite uncomfortable. We opened up the back flaps from the tents to get some relief. And our guide Doug had brought a battery-driven fan which was really good to have. I also had some of these dehydration satchets every day, drank a lot and it was fine.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, our first full day on the flood plains - what did we see?

 

Because of the heat we started very early and got on our way before 06:00. We had barely left camp when Doug saw some lion tracks on the road. He went out to investigate, walked a bit down the road, quickly came back to the car and laughed. "They´re right around the bend."

 

Indeed they were.

 

large_TR28.JPG.8d09fa2b6589e4ac54f0dabf6

 

large_TR30.JPG.639e4252f6e13643f2b4c47a0

 

large_TR29.JPG.fa7083623b3d8eaa305358c72

 

There were four females, and one of them was with extremely young cubs!

 

large_TR24.JPG.d39f001499933545c1be52273

 

She was taking good care of them and kept them hidden deep inside a bush on a termite mount most of the time, but we could snatch a few good looks on them.

 

large_TR25.JPG.3171dc44aea209ff820ef7965

 

large_TR26.JPG.0f0f0ecb308a3305a420d77ca

 

This position looked quite awkward but the little one seemed to really like it.

 

large_TR27.JPG.2a114c0f1c93594d87a04e1ce

 

Soon they retreated even further inside the thickish and we decided to move on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A short while later we thought we had found an old friend - Boswell, the iconic handstanding tusker of Mana Pools. Of course we had to walk over to say Hello, just to be polite.

 

large_TR31.JPG.9b5a2d68012203da04de68bac

 

Doug soon realized this was not patient old Boswell. This guy here is called ASBO, an acronym for "Anti-Social-Behaviour-Ogre" (probably not Ogre I´ll admit, I forgot what the O stands for). As a matter of fact we were unable to find Boswell to find during our trip. It´s always a bit worrying when he´s not around because he likes to leave for the adjacent hunting areas from time to time and he would be of course the perfect trophy. But he´s fine we were told, others saw him during and after our stay. Back to ASBO:

 

large_TR32.JPG.a313e9fdc0b5e7bec8b26157d

 

He definitely wanted to check us out, but unlike Boswell he was not so relaxed and good-natured.

 

large_TR35.JPG.9dc9b6653d0a6513649ca019f

 

Doug resorted to his friendly Elephant-slang "Hello my Boy" chatting mode which somehow seemed to calm him down a bit - and it did also have a reassuring effect on AndMic and me. :)

 

large_TR33.JPG.9b862a7ad247d814851e77731

 

Still, ASBO made it quite clear we should make way for him.

 

medium_TR36.JPG.2636f0dc6b030999e21b2d13

 

And came very close.

 

large_TR34.JPG.149b40b6d33a6644525f1ed57

 

You really only appreciate just how big an Elephant is when you are on foot, feeling like a mouse looking up to a giant.

 

large_TR37.JPG.cd69e448ddbb8e0d54b01ca0e

 

But he was simply interested in the juicy trees right above where we were standing.

 

large_TR38.JPG.32ed2036524787425f0506e9b

 

An angle you only get in Mana Pools.

 

large_TR39.JPG.92287503103bbfb102750caa0

 

Not quite a handstander yet so he has to use other tricks. (Maybe that´s why he´s antisocial - he must feel inferior to the other big bulls who have mastered it. ;))

 

large.TR407.JPG.30b3a294f22574280f5be2a5

 

When the whole family joined in it was time for us to retreat. The youngster there was quite cheeky - he even climbed the tree, obviously wanting to impress us.

Edited by michael-ibk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great trip report @michael-ibk! Love to see dogs and leopard, but that picture from underneath an elephant: that's just breathtaking!

 

Mana Pools, it already was high on my list and I start to believe it's safari heaven :) Temperature is my only concern though, taking anti dehydration and a battery fan sounds like a smart thing to take with you.

How many hours did it take to drive from Lusaka to Mana? Never thought of it travelling through Lusaka, would make it a lot easier to go there as from Holland flights to Lusaka are less expensive and better planned.

 

Looking forward to more!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, @LarsS! I´m not exactly sure since we spent some time in Lusaka (bank and other stuff), and even without that it takes quite a while to get through town from Pioneer. So we started around 08:30 at Pioneer, left the city at around 10:30 and reached Chirundu at about 12:45. I´d say we needed a bit less than an hour to get everything done there. Of course we did not have to bother with the car paperworks which apparently can be quite bothersome if you don´t know how to do it but obviously Doug has done that many times. We were at the park ticket office at 14:35, at the first gate to Mana Pools at 14:50, at the second gate (where the turnoff to Chitake is) at 15:30 and reached the Flood Plains about 16:30. All in all, it´s faster than going from Harare if everything is going fine at the border. It´s definitely shorter (213 km vs 344 km).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We spent the rest of the morning walking. This is what makes Mana really special - I love this, walking between the ancient trees, being surrounded by animals and animals all over. Paradise. An extremely hazy paradise this time I admit - the oncoming rains and some burnings around the park did contribute to that.

 

large_TR41.JPG.8e9a6f9b28f30c1bbd0cc92c3

 

large_TR40.JPG.9355b045743a5f3e3fe7046ec

 

One of the ubiquitous Tree Squirrels

 

large_TR42.JPG.08d57a536b32cb30c3aaa0c9e

 

Waterbucks were particularly numerous this season, they must have had a good year.

 

large_TR45.JPG.536fe077c73ab7dfa9a5bab76

 

Impala, of course, are everywhere.

 

large_TR43.JPG.dbc440f25f05f87d3549ab779

 

A Lilian´s Lovebird - I had forgotten how common they are (but not easy to get close to).

 

large_TR44.JPG.9f24b7eed14e3682503e2ddab

 

large_TR46.JPG.bd602e815e7bb06265f2c862f

 

Red-Billed Quelea are always an entertaining spectacle with their huge flocks, and I had some fun trying to get pictures of them.

 

large_TR47.JPG.56705aa4e61ad1b4608f44f0f

 

large_TR48.JPG.7ecb954d53cf6174ccd5083d3

 

We spent some time by the banks of the Zambezi at a White-Fronted Bee-Eater colony but they were shy and remained high up in the trees while we were there so we soon retreated to let them go take care of their offspring again.

 

large_TR50.JPG.dddddb2bddc4f128a212bbb7f

 

In the sizzling heat it would have been very tempting to go down the banks and stick your toes into the cooling water.

 

large_TR49.JPG.110560ee96113aeab0574acbd

 

But some water ripples always tell why that would be an inredibly dumb thing to do - down there, we are  prey to them:

 

large_TR51.JPG.90a8b9ca99adf25ed5a62a11d

 

Doug always was careful about Elephants, and it always is exciting, but also a bit unnerving, when one of them emerges somewhere like he had never been around.

 

large_TR52.JPG.97dab35c624a9c61f16c17f2b

 

Obviously, this guy could care less about us.

 

large_TR53.JPG.b7e17bbda0bc3dbda0eb8ce0b

 

large_TR54.JPG.0e8487bc624873d7621f02c6d

 

These two will give me an ID headache for my Big Year thread - some of these WhydahWidowbird things which all look the same.

 

large_TR55.JPG.ff04bf4a941380fa231cecaa0

 

Back at the car we enjoyed a late (excellent) breakfast pack from camp, I still remember those cold Quiche Lorraine very fondly. :) It was time to get back to camp, it was getting really hot now. The little one here did not seem to mind:

 

large_TR56.JPG.7f5e9fa8e9b0ca5e7f5ab1893

 

large_TR57.JPG.817a4cedd508c24a4d9480f6d

 

Meve´s Starling - they are everywhere in Mana Pools.

 

Poor photos coming up but it was an interesting thing to watch. This Ayre´s Hawk-Eagle (a good tick for me, not a bird you see every day) was just minding his business sitting in a tree when a Wahlberg´s Eagle decided out of all the three trillion branches in Mana Pools he needed to have just that one and attacked:

 

large_TR58.JPG.cf01ffe04b9c1685e05ffa91f

 

large_TR59.JPG.3ec7076f26cb4b7f286e844fc

 

large_TR60.JPG.dac43fd005135b51ffdcdc6b8

 

large.TR408.JPG.7438cdf312beedffcea3353a

 

The lions were still around where we had seen them this morning. They looked hungry and quite interested in a herd of Buffaloes not too far away so we waited to see what would happen. At one point we even asked camp if it would be possible to have lunch brought out to us (sure, no problem) but when they all became flat cats again we reconsidered (the heat might have had something to do with that) and got back from our first drive/walk at around 12:30.

Edited by michael-ibk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the afternoon we wanted to check what the lions were up to but they had left their spot near the road! What to do now? Track them of course. I remembered how absurd I found that proposition two years ago when we did it for the very first time. After all, which sensible person would voluntarily run off into the bush and try to get close to Big Bad Teethy Cats on foot? But now, of course we just shrugged in a "Yeah, let´s do it" way and were Matrix-like cool about it.

 

Big fat lie of course. I´m a pretty chicken guy, and I will never be "cool" while walking. Looking for Lions is pure excitement. Never knowing where they are, seeing moments of that Val Kilmer movie in your fantasy, always alert, always looking around - it´s so so different from being in the safety of a car, and - to me - much more satisfying.

 

We soon found the two brothers.

 

large_TR66.JPG.d80059a26f56b690ccb3ec782

 

When some Elephants walked by closely we were wondering if they would notice them, and also did worry a bit for the Ele youngster but they never realized the Lions were there, and the Boys were far too lazy to do anything.

 

large_TR67.JPG.06ebd9afe02a92ff92552ec6a

 

large_TR68.JPG.e75db3bd002dd5c250fc1a4d6

 

We moved on to a little ridge. There were several water puddles below, and Doug hoped the Lions would come to drink later, maybe even bring the cubs with them.

 

large_TR78.JPG.88dff25326f2e0fa9ae7a8228

 

But first it was the Elephant´s turn, and they had a lot of fun in the mud.

 

large_TR69.JPG.dc1d98efc94a5c24d66db6de4

 

large_TR70.JPG.93c47b96d92aebc88806980d0

 

large_TR71.JPG.ca2b9cdea90f6dde385eabb5c

 

large_TR72.JPG.371c0a575510a922a2eedc888

 

large_TR73.JPG.9f3b2a2c44cc829c9f47a96e5

 

large_TR74.JPG.79a568f650a8d3834c27217bd

 

large_TR75.JPG.2b6d4ec7d7303cc4674a1b7af

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It took them a while but finally the Lions did come out - without the cubs, though, and only one of the ladies actually chose the waterhole close to us.

 

large_TR79.JPG.1fda284323b51ec3107ec07b0

 

large_TR80.JPG.a2800271c8b41d51b7d3b10bf

 

large_TR81.JPG.3dbcaf88a5d8cc31837641d61

 

The two brothers soon followed, all in all they were seven.

 

large_TR82.JPG.45645ef164cb40f0d625d6a99

 

large.TR409.JPG.1f94d11e626831736ee26d6f

 

They spread out and obviously were hungry. We saw two (failed) hunting attempts by one of the females and then a lot of Zebras, Impala and Waterbuck running. Surely they would make prey tonight. But it was getting dark - and high time for us to get back to the car. The mother with her cubs was waiting there, her cubs in the very same bush where she had been this morning.

 

large.TR410.JPG.1efa6fe7645b532035003b31

 

Tomorrow - an absolutely Cat-free day (which actually can be a good thing).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seniortraveller

We saw the four females after the rains, but sadly no sign of the cubs while we were there. There were suckle marks on one of the females, but unsure how quickly these would disappear if the cubs had died.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh my I hope not. What was Doug's take on this? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seniortraveller

Not sure if he was 100% convinced the cubs had died, but we did check the area they had previously been. No sign of them at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lovely photos - especially the elephants in the mud. It must be very relaxing in that heat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thoroughly enjoying both your entertaining narrative and photo's @michael-ibk - particularly impressed (and envious!) of your leopard sighting at Chisambiko.

 

As for the cubs, I hope for the best for them.  We felt this was a very fluid pride and saw various groupings throughout our week, including the females on their own (drinking at Mucheni 4 late one afternoon - exactly where your mud-bathing ele pictures were taken if I'm not mistaken) whilst the cubs were in the care of the two males a good 2km away, so fingers crossed, they are still OK and you were just unlucky @Seniortraveller 

Edited by Whyone?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@michael-ibk @Seniortraveller @Whyone? I whatsapped Doug in mid  Nov and he was sat watching the lionesses and 4 cubs so hopefully all is well with them still. Your report is wonderful and making me feel guilty that I haven't yet started my report. I am aiming for the Christmas break but will in the meantime savour this one. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@michael-ibk Enjoying the report and excellent photos. ASBO stands for Anti Social Behaviour Order - a legal order prohibiting unwanted or disruptive behaviour - not sure how easy it would be to serve on an elephant though :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. By using Safaritalk you agree to our use of cookies. If you wish to refuse the setting of cookies you can change settings on your browser to clear and block cookies. However, by doing so, Safaritalk may not work properly and you may not be able to access all areas. If you are happy to accept cookies and haven't adjusted browser settings to refuse cookies, Safaritalk will issue cookies when you log on to our site. Please also take a moment to read the Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy: Terms of Use l Privacy Policy