My last two safaris where I saw so many dream species of animals and birds

[optig]

Notice in the  third picture that there is a colobus monkey.

[optig]

We then went to Lake Baringo where we stayed at Tumbili Cliff Lodge. We also made an excursion to Lake Bogoria. 

[optig]

We then went to Lake Baringo where we stayed at Tumbili Cliff Lodge. We also made an excursion to Lake Bogoria. 

[optig]

We then went to Lake Baringo where we stayed at Tumbili Cliff Lodge. We also made an excursion to Lake Bogoria. 

[optig]

 We then went to Lake Baringo where we stayed for two nights at Tumbiii Cliffs lodge. We also took an excursion to Lake Bogoria. I did see many crocodiles and a good number of hippos in Lake Baringo. It didn't surprise me to learn that Lake Baringo holds the world record for the greatest number of species ever seen by an ornithologist in 24 hours-342 species. Please see the fish eagles and goliath herons. I will try to identify the other species later.

[optig]

Of course what is delightful on safari is viewing  the smaller things. Look at the lizard and gorgeous flower. I need to learn about botany because I know nothing. The lizard has stunning camouflage.

Edited October 27, 2017 by optig

[optig]

I've never been to Lake Nakuru because the concentration of greater and lesser flamingoes is no longer there. I wasn't to be disappointed at Lake Bogoria. 

[optig]

 Here are some more bird photos from Lake Baringo. I will try to identify them later. As I said before I'm not a twitcher but like almost everyone I just love watching birds and identifying them. 

[michael-ibk]

Great to see you visited a few of the lesser known places in Kenya. The Aberdares are a big favourite of mine, and I loved Lake Baringo.

[optig]

@micheal-ibk I did enjoy the Aberdares even if our visit was marred by the 3 elephant carcasses. I also have trouble believing the excuses of the KWS that they had to kill them because they failed to adjust to the medication used to sedate them on their move from Kericho to the Aberdares. 

 

Do you have any other favorite little known lesser gems in Kenya or for that matter elsewhere in Africa? I am looking forwards to visiting Bale National Park and Ali Dege next year. I have heard such positive things about you and just love your photos and trip reports. I still haven't been to Buffalo Springs or Shaba National Park even if I have been to Samburu which I just loved.

 

Here are some more photos from Lake Baringo. As you know it's a place which is impossible not to love not only for the birds but also because of its beauty and the fact that it receives so few visitors. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[optig]

@Zarek Cockar and I took a local guide and went to Saiwa Swamp National Park which is the smallest in Kenya. There were no other tourists there, but locals are permitted to pass through it. We saw many birds, but no wildlife other than a bushbuck as well as sitatunga. The sitatunga has long been high on my list of dream animals. It is not only rare in Kenya but is highly elusive; there are apparently no more than 50 or 60 remaining in East Africa.

[optig]

Finally we reached our last destination which was Kakamega forest. We stayed here for two days. Zarek and I stayed at the Rondo Retreat Centre. I found it a charming and lovely place with a great atmosphere. One shouldn't be put off by its Christian nature because it's not forced on anyone. Furthermore your'e welcome to bring your own alcohol. I wasn't to be disappointed by Kakamega forest's great reputation as a birding destination. The black and white casqued hornbill was just a spectacular sight.  Kakamega is also a great place to see monkeys and I saw plenty of skye's.

Edited October 30, 2017 by optig

[Botswanadreams]

@optig thanks for your report. Nice to see you with Zarek together on places we visited with him last year. It is a big reminder of a fabius time in Kenya. I hope that we soon be able to come back to explore more parts of beautiful Kenya.  

[michael-ibk]

Great you found the Sitatunga. No more secret gems I know about, and you have been to far more places than I have, so I could only learn from you, not the other way around. Thank you.

[kittykat23uk]

Great report! Really enjoyed it! 

[Zarek Cockar]

Just a quick overview from me.
We camped in the Aberdares for 2 nights at Ruhiruini Campsite, near Ruhiruini Gate, a couple of kilometers down the road from the old Tusk Camp, which as been "under renovation" for quite some time now.  All of the campsites down in the Salient are Private Campsites, which require a $75 booking fee on top of the regular daily camping fees and park fees.  Plus Ruhiruini is at the upper end of the salient on the main road West, giving us easy access to both the forest and the moorlands.  
The whole dead elephant debacle ruined the mood for both of us quite early on.  We were alerted to them by a friend of mine, a fellow guide, Ben Mugambi (whom @offshorebirder knows well), as we entered the park around the same time.  We found them in a big clearing only around 3-4 km from the Treetops gate.  KWS's official story that they had died en-route from Kajiado felt a bit suspicious.  Their faces had clearly been chopped off in a hurry.  When the authorities remove tusks from a dead elephant, it looks quite different.  Secondly, why were they spread out across this clearing in plain sight for everyone to see (and smell)?  The sight of a dead elephant is an extremely distressing thing, and unless you ask KWS (and then believe them), it also completely undermines their image as an anti-poaching force.  It all just seemed a little too weird and unusual.  But we'll go with their story for now, because we don't have another one.

That first afternoon, we had a pleasant, easy game drive, not venturing too far from the campsite.  Plenty of Bushbuck, a couple of very frightened elephants (I wonder why?), some old buffalo bulls lazing in a mud pool, our first Giant Forest Hog, and that Coypu!  Lots of Silvery-Cheeked Hornbills, some beautiful European Bee-Eaters sitting in the golden afternoon sun (but never long enough for the camera to focus on them!), and African Cuckoo Hawk rather close! and and African Hobby!!  

 

The following day, we took a full-day drive up to explore the moorlands.  Plenty of Bushbuck, buffalo, some distant eland, more elephants, more hogs, waterbuck, and flashes of Duikers, but no good clear views.  I believe both @pault and @twaffle have photos of the same short-horned buffalo.  He seems to be a regular feature on my safaris and has been there in that same spot for the last couple of years.  He never seems unhealthy, and I suppose the lack of lions means his lack of horns are of no disadvantage to him.  Anyway, eventually the clouds began to look ominous and heavy, so we began to head back down to camp.  Spent the late afternoon over looking the stream that runs through the campsite, watching the sun set, and listening to the birds and monkeys overhead with drink in hand.

Off we then went, through the salient to Mweiga, up to Nyahururu, down to Nakuru, and all the way up to Baringo in time for a late lunch at Tumbili Cliff Lodge.  The staff there are very laid back, but always pleasant and helpful.  I love the views from the lodge, looking out over the lake from on top of a small cliff towards Olkokwe Island.  As soon as you walk in, the birding begins.  By the time we left Baringo I had 100 species on my list, with a further 31 from Bogoria.  We never birded aggressively, but did spend the first afternoon looking for owls.  As per @optig's photos, we found Pearl Spotted Owlet, Verreaux's Eagle-Owl, and Northern White Faced Scops Owl.  The Scops Owls that we usually find near the old Lake Baringo Club had moved and we couldn't find them.  We looked hard, as well, for Greyish & Spotted Eagle Owls in a ravine where we usually see them, but  as King Charles the 1st once said, "I see all the birds are flown".  We did, however, get a great, close-up view of a Heuglin's (Three-Banded) Courser.  This bird, in the books, looks completely unremarkable.  In person, however, it's exquisitely beautiful, and because of it's hectic camouflage and habit of sitting/standing dead still, it can be a real challenge to find them.
The next day we took a boat ride, which, as usual, offered up some great sightings of herons, monitor lizards, malachite kingfishers, crocs, hippos, fish-eagles, and even a stunning Northern Red Bishop in the bright morning sun.  You'll also no doubt have seen the Senegal Thick-Knee photos above, which we found on Teddy Bear Island (I know, it's a strange name for an island).  

 

In the afternoon, we headed to Lake Bogoria National Reserve.  I used to come to Bogoria as a child with my parents.  We would camp at the Southern end of the lake under some massive, spreading Fig Trees, next to a fresh-water stream and some hot springs.  I have many fond memories of that place, but I’ll never forget how alert we’d have to be to the resident troop of baboons who seemed particularly fond of naan.  In those days, I don’t remember seeing a single other vehicle (mind you, I was young and probably wasn’t paying much attention).  Now, there are a decent number of visitors to the reserve, mostly because Nakuru no longer supports the flamingo numbers it once did, and Elementaita is somewhat unreliable for flamingoes. Most of the tourists we saw were Chinese, and were staying at Lake Bogoria Spa Resort on the edge of the park.  They all seemed to be enjoying the experience (as did we, by the way). I was, however, a little dismayed at how few mammals we saw in the 3.5 hours we were in the Reserve.  I think we saw Baboons, Vervets, a couple of Dikdik, a handful of impala (in a single group), 2 warthog, and a single, stunning Greater Kudu bull.  The entrance of the Reserve, and the first few KM’s along the road are surrounded by Prosopis juliflora (Mesquite), an alien invasive tree from the South-Western United States and Central America.  It was brought in to East Africa back in the 60s, I believe, to “green the desert”.  How I wish the powers-that-were had recognized the potential of Acacia tortilis instead.  Anyway, all of this to say that I really feel Bogoria has huge potential, if properly managed.  There needs to be better law enforcement, controlling cattle.  There needs to be ecological monitoring and improvement.  They could put in a few more game drive roads.  Someone could put in an eco-lodge that supports local conservation efforts.
Don’t get me wrong, though.  I thoroughly enjoyed being back in Bogoria.  It really is a stunningly beautiful place.

 

The next day, we took off after breakfast, heading west….

 

The stream running past Ruhiruini Campsite:

 

A fancy Jewel Bug from our Aberdare Campsite:

 

Crisp views of Mt. Kenya on our way up toward the moorlands

 

A bizarre fungus or fruit (I have no idea) that we found in the high bamboo. Black markings all around it on the ground...


An abandoned campsite we found exploring little side tracks.  What. A. Spot.

 

Interesting beetle at the campsite.  I have yet to try to ID him.

 

Moonrise over Lake Bogoria


Sunrise over Lake Baringo

Edited October 31, 2017 by Zarek Cockar
forgot to add 1 photo

[Zarek Cockar]

From Baringo, we got onto the Marigat – Iten road, heading up through the lush green Tugen hills, through Kabarnet town (former President Moi’s hometown) and out into the clear, overlooking the Kerio Valley.  The land just seems to drop out in front of you and the Uasin Gishu Plateau rises up on the opposite side like a sheer wall 4,300 feet from the Kerio river.  To say it’s dramatic would be a bit of an understatement.  I’ve done this drive many times, but it never gets old for me.  Winding, un-potholed roads, up and down hills.  I could drive it all day long.   
Once you get up to Iten (the home of Kenya’s long-distance running elite), the scenery is unremarkable through Eldoret and Kitale.  Lush farmlands that feed the country are beautiful in their own right, but I get more excited about indigenous diversity. 

We managed to get in to Barnley’s Guest House for a late lunch with Richard Barnley and his 91 year old mother, Jane.  The Barnley’s garden is a 5 acrer oasis of old-growth indigenous forest in a sea of monoculture crops and Eucalyptus trees.  Naturally, it’s full of fantastic Western Kenya birds and even a resident troop of Colobus Monkeys.  As I always do there, I called upon the help of Maurice, Richard’s bird guide, to take us around for the first afternoon towards Keringet swamp and the surrounding fields.  We clocked up a good number of species here, including Golden-Backed Weaver, Chubb’s Cisticola, Lesser Blue-Eared Starling, African Hawk-Eagle, and Heuglin’s Masked Weaver (a Uganda bird). 
Back to Barnley’s for a hot shower and a hearty family meal near the fireplace.  Jane and her late husband built the house over 50 years ago after the got married.  It has so much character, and every room is stuffed full of books on natural history, adventure stories, classics, and general Africana.  Beautifully painted Kenyan birds adorn the walls.  This place is a real gem.

The following day, we decided to head up to Kapcherop forest, a 90,000 hectare forest block on the slopes of the Cherangani Hills, to look for Spotted Creeper, a strange, shy bird that almost no one sees in Kenya.  They’re more common in the neighbouring countries to the West.  We looked long and hard, and found many other species, but alas, a Spotted Creeper sighting was not to be.  After a picnic lunch in the forest, we headed down again, dropping down the Kongelai escarpment, an unexpected fault in the earth, the scenery around which looks like something out of Tsavo West.  Dry country birds and Ugandan species abound here from Yellow-Billed Shrike to White Crested Turaco.  Our highlights here were Verreauxs’ Eagles soaring over us looking for Rock Hyraxes, Levaillant’s Cuckoo, Mocking Cliff Chat, Marico Sunbird, and Slender-Billed Starling.

This was a LONG day.  By the time we got back to Barnley’s we were both exhausted. But another hearty dinner, a cold beer, a hot shower, and a comfy bed did the trick.  We woke up refreshed and ready to head to Saiwa Swamp National Park on our way out towards Kakamega.  Maurice was with us again and we got into the park early, picking up lots of bird species along the way.  The mammal highlights here are Red-Tailed Monkeys, Colobus Monkeys, Bushbuck, and of course Sitatunga, all of which made an appearance.  Saiwa Swamp NP is only 3km squared, but it’s so densely packed with such a high diversity of birds, that you can’t help but love it.  One of my favourite birds here is the Snowy-Capped Robin-Chat.

Onward South to Kakamega for our last stop…

 

A quick stop on the edge of the newly built "Cherangani Highway" to take in the views and do some quick birding.  This is looking West towards Mt. Kadam on the UG border.


The view looking out over the Kongelai Escparpment


@optig traversing a river over a fallen tree.

[Zarek Cockar]

Many of the roads in Western Kenya are very good, new, or well-maintained roads.  You’d think you could make good time between Kitale and Kakamega.  They’re really not that far apart.  But you’d be wrong.  Every kiosk, every house, every shack has a speed bump in front of it, official or home-made.  It’s rare to get over 70kph, and with all the slowing down for bumps, I reckon your overall mean/average speed is around 30kph.  Kenyan drivers do have a tendency to ignore speed limit signs and pedestrians, so in some ways, speed bumps are necessary in towns, but one big one at either end of town would suffice.  Anyway, enough about speed bumps.  I really dislike them.

Road construction North of Kakamega town meant that I missed the turning to drive around over the top of the forest.  Eventually found it through a maze of bollards, dust, matatus, and parked construction lorries.  Thankfully once we were on the dirt road, it began to rain and cooled things off a little. 

We arrived at Rondo Retreat for a late lunch (this is becoming a bit of a trend here, I see) and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing at Rondo, racking up the bird list quickly just sitting on a bench in the garden. For those of you who are not familiar with Rondo, it has a long history, first being part of a timber mill, then an orphanage, then being abandoned, becoming a school, and eventually a retreat owned by Trinity Fellowship, a Christian Mission.  Despite the religious influence, there’s a strong focus on environmental awareness, birds, and butterflies.  The buildings are quaint wooden cottages surrounded by a beautiful garden with lots of big trees and flowers, attracting all sorts of birds and butterflies.  The garden is then surrounded by a wall of thick forest.  I have always found Rondo very pleasant.  It’s not a luxury lodge and there are no frills, but there really isn’t anywhere else to stay in Kakamega forest, and spending the night in Kakamega town doesn’t appeal to most visitors to the forest.

Though it wasn’t pre-arranged, we decided to get a local guide, Smith, to take us around the following day for a morning and afternoon walk.  I know my way around Kakamega relatively well, and I can ID many of the birds there, but I have to admit that we did identify more birds with Smith that we would have without him. 
I started birding at 11 years old when I joined my prep school’s Birdwatching Club.  I got myself an old bird guide book.  When I saw a picture of the Great Blue Turaco, I knew I HAD to see that bird!  For various reasons, I didn’t visit Kakamega Forest until I was an adult, had dropped birding, and just recently picked it up again.  On my first trip there, I pulled into Rondo, put my bags in my room stepped out on the verandah, and there was a Great Blue sitting on the hedge 15m away from me. I really could have stopped birding right there.  I thought that was the pinnacle of all my years of birdwatching.  But then as I walked around the garden with my bird-mad friend, I began to see all the other birds I had always stared at in my book but never seen in real life. And they were marvelous.  And birding just got more and more exciting for me from that point on.  I have to admit, I’m not a very good birder, when compared to some of the other bird specialist guides in Kenya.  I’m colour-blind in greens and reds, and there are many birds with red on them that sit in green trees.  It’s as if they’re conspiring against me. So while I’ve developed other ways of identifying birds, I don’t think I’ll ever be Kenya’s Top Birder.

The following day, we had breakfast, packed up the vehicle and headed home to Nairobi.

 

I have very few photos from Kakamega.  Just a couple of butterflies, a moth, and a Fruit Chafer Beetle who hitched a ride on the vehicle

 

[vikramghanekar]

Lovely trip report and amazing photographs. Gives one an idea how much Kenya has to offer than usual Masai Mara/ Amboseli/Samburu thingy!

About Lake Bogoria, can one go on boat trips on the Lake? The Flemingos (and of course most water birds) are much more approachable when you are in a boat than when you are one land.

@Zarek Cockar Is it possible to use canoes on the lake (much more silent, much lower in water than a powered boat). It would be a wonderful activity. I hope there aren't many hippos in water (Crocs shouldn't pose problems).

[Zarek Cockar]

@vikramghanekar As far as I know, there are no operators who offer canoe/boat trips on L. Bogoria.  I certainly have never seen it, and I don't know what the National Reserve rules are regarding boats. I suspect other people would not appreciate it (people standing on the shore), but it certainly is an idea to look into!