Umlani camp and Africa on foot MAY 2017

[COSMIC RHINO]

• the woman in the heels ,mini skirt  etc  fell over several times 
• the matchmaking  guide was beyond  the pits , you just have to say no once and it should have stopped , I have enough sense to realise that my trip was not about that , anyone who wants to try it would be accused of sexual harrasment
• the unaccompanied  female in my vehicle was from the Netherlands ,friendly enough but largely wanted not to talk to people , so I had little to do with her 

on leopards  

 

some people can  rather silly ,on the shuttle bus  there was a office staff member from Kambaku camp.  She spoke of the time that guide who went in to rescue the guest who got out of the vehicle to get closer to a leopard

 

well my guide assumed since I had visited for 2 years ,so I would keep on coming back, well I left him guessing

Edited June 30, 2017 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

Africa on foot is deliberately  low key, 3 star comfortable, close to nature and unfenced

 

all the staff guides, manager and cooks are very friendly 

 

they welcome people very keenly and welcome them back 

 

you  can here in in the tone of their voices

 

this was especially noticeable with one of the kitchen staff, when I came back after a bit of a gap, a Farrari  safari rush around and tick the list guide had put me of coming back ,fortunately I decided to give it another go.

 

outside meal times there is nearly   always the manager or a guide siting at the bar counter  to answer any question guests might have

 

you can get a rate for room,meals and activities or one which also includes most drinks

 

the water is ok to drink, although large dispensers of filtered water is  also available 

 

a guide or the tracker always dines with the guests

 

they knew what my food requirements were , I appreciated  being given apples and bananas  on the activities , instead of the usual choice of biltong and other not very desireable snacks

[COSMIC RHINO]

The area around the camp is a lovely landscape ,with some great trees and termite mounds

 

the original plants  have been kept between cabins, there are no artificially made paths to walk on

 

people are told that they can walk around camp but don't go too far as wildlife  can be around, don't go beyond the tree house

 

what I like about the reserve  here is the low number of tourist camps  and the total lack of crowds 

 

there is a limit  of 2 vehicles on any one siting , I was most often without another vehicle nearby

[COSMIC RHINO]

Africa on foot is of the main power grid

 

power is supplied  by solar cells with backup stotage batteries  plus a supplementary generator

 

the generator is not noisy

 

there is a recharge station at the dining area

 

in the rooms there are a few electric lights  and a powerpoint mainly used for fans in the summer

 

there are solar light  jars are in the rooms at night ,to make it easier to move to the bathroom

 

please leave your hairdryer at home , such intense appliciable drain the available power

 

the hot water in the rooms comes from a wood heater ,alsom called donkey boiler

 

the fridge works of bottled gas

 

the cooking is done of bottled gas or on open fires

 

the meals are good style family cooking

[COSMIC RHINO]

Africa on foot is of the main power grid

 

power is supplied  by solar cells with backup stotage batteries  plus a supplementary generator

 

the generator is not noisy

 

there is a recharge station at the dining area

 

in the rooms there are a few electric lights  and a powerpoint mainly used for fans in the summer

 

there are solar light  jars are in the rooms at night ,to make it easier to move to the bathroom

 

please leave your hairdryer at home , such intense appliciable drain the available power

 

the hot water in the rooms comes from a wood heater ,also called donkey boiler

 

the fridge works of bottled gas

 

the cooking is done of bottled gas or on open fires

 

the meals are good style family cooking

 

TREEHOUSE 

 

The treehouse  is a place  to be used  for osbervation during the day  or to sleep 2 people at night

 

it is a 2 level goog platform  ,level one is a simple couch, level 2 has a bed ,there is a thatch roof, there are no side walls beyond the polls used to link one floor to the next and support the roof

 

there is a stair case  and a seperate brick building on ground level which is a bathroom

 

it is a considerable distance from the camp, if you sleep here you driven there

 

it is a basic structure  and not intended to provided the ammenity and comfort of a regular room

 

the users  retain their cabin

[COSMIC RHINO]

most of the water used for  showers etc froms from a rain water tank

 

Africa on foot is of the main power grid

 

power is supplied  by solar cells with backup stotage batteries  plus a supplementary generator

 

the generator is not noisy

 

there is a recharge station at the dining area

 

in the rooms there are a few electric lights  and a powerpoint mainly used for fans in the summer

 

there are solar light  jars are in the rooms at night ,to make it easier to move to the bathroom

 

please leave your hairdryer at home , such intense appliciable drain the available power

 

the hot water in the rooms comes from a wood heater ,also called donkey boiler

 

the fridge works of bottled gas

 

the cooking is done of bottled gas or on open fires

 

the meals are good style family cooking

 

TREEHOUSE

 

The treehouse  is a place  to be used  for osbervation during the day  or to sleep 2 people at night

 

it is a 2 level wood platform  ,level one is a simple couch, level 2 has a bed ,there is a thatch roof, there are no side walls beyond the polls used to link one floor to the next and support the roof

 

there is a stair case  and a seperate brick building on ground level which is a bathroom

 

it is a considerable distance from the camp, if you sleep here you driven there

 

it is a basic structure  and not intended to provided the ammenity and comfort of a regular room

 

the users  retain their cabin

 

SWIMMIMG POOL

 

there is a small swimming pool , with a deck, pool lounges  and a pergola

 

the water was not particulary warm ,however someone  went for a brief swim and found the temperature ok

 

if you are just lying around to get a bit of sun as I did , I have low vitamin D , be carefull with the lounge at the end as it is close as it is a tight fit ,you could fall in the pool ,or over the edge

[COSMIC RHINO]

this reserve is always pleasing with its great scenery and low visitor numbers

 

it is good to go out and see who is around 

 

I am never late knowing what time the activities are and backing this up with an electronic kitchen timer

[COSMIC RHINO]

there is an air horn in the  rooms for use in cases of dander from animals 

 

well that can be relative , I was told that someone used it  to request the removal of a gecko  who had wandered in 

 

the gecko was left in place 

 

gamedrives are conducted  at an unhurried pace looking for animals

 

the vehicles from the different  camps are radio connected  between all camps, and a private channel for just Africa on foot and Nthambo camp

[COSMIC RHINO]

I find the idea of Boabab Ridge  camp to be interesting , as  that type of tree is absent in the area , and it is built on a flat

 

turns out  that the name comes as it is owned by a Botswana company, I chat with my guide and we both call it knobthorn  instead 

 

their manager is a good guide and she does the gamedrives  herself

 

 

I don't get to see much of the other vehicles , just a few times around  leopards  and just briefly around elephants 

 

the other vehicle did not have much interest in eles  so they moved on relatively quickly

 

lions are not much interest to me , but they get as whole lot of interest  with radio calls

 

there was a wonderfull group of elephants swimming in a dam on the first afternoon drive  

[COSMIC RHINO]

ON AN ART TOUR 

 

This is something  I  started  to think about  when at Umlani , but did not mention to the less than ok guide

 

people would ask to be shown cheetahs, and were told they are not likely here we need large area of grass without many trees

 

they are not often seen in this bush scrub, then a few days later would ask about them ,as if they had not  been told why they would be absent

 

a whole lot of people like much precise knowledge about nature , even if it is the main point of the trip

 

if it was an art trip they would get it right, this in nature and the bush

 

the level of knowledge is kind of art gallery tourists  with a main interest in French impressionists or old maters being surprised why there are not many or any pictures of that kind in the Picasso museum

 

it would not happen they would find their way to the correct gallery of interest but it kept on happing on my safari 

 

where are the cheetahs? elsewhere in an expansive grassland 

 

Kevin my guide thought that  it is a good way to explain things and he had had many people mistakenly looking for cheetahs in the bush

[Peter Connan]

@COSMIC RHINO, As you may know by now, I am fortunate to have spent a considerable amount of time in the Klaserie.

 

And while one is not very likely to see a cheetah there, I have in fact seen more cheetah in the Klaserie than leopards (even though there are undeniably many more leopard around).

 

In fact, I have seen more Pangolin in Klaserie than leopard. We once came across a family of five, and I have only seen leopard there three times...

[offshorebirder]

@COSMIC RHINO  just sent me a boatload of photos scanned into PDFs - here is the first one converted to JPEG.  

 

It's a Rhino rubbing post worn smooth by lots of muddy hides.  

 

 

 

 

[offshorebirder]

Here are some more photos I converted and posted at @COSMIC RHINO's request.

 

A very nice leopard encounter:

 

 

a giraffe + oxpecker portrait:

 

 

 

 And the intrepid @COSMIC RHINO himself: 

 

 

 Lots more photos to come including some nice elephant material.

 

 

Edited July 5, 2017 by offshorebirder

[COSMIC RHINO]

Thanks offshorebirder for posting my Africa  on foot photos

 

the wonderful rubbing post made by generations of rhinos was shown to me

 

it is the best one I have ever seen , the finish is finer than any human artisan could do

 

imagine  how much as bowl or a tray with a finish like that would sell  at a commercial gallery

 

I will not be giving you any photos to post from Umlani

[COSMIC RHINO]

My guide  Kevin was great at tacking and finding animals

 

he displayed a good knowledge and deep love of the bush

 

the animals you see are a matter of who is around , and are to be appreciated 

 

in my visits to this reserve I have had at least one clear leopard siting on each trip

 

seeing cheetahs here is shere luck, they need large areas of flat grass with little trees or bushes inbetween

 

out of my visits here I have  seen them only once

 

Peter Connan is very lucky  to have seen them as much as he has , and as for pangolins  that is very,very lucky indeed

[COSMIC RHINO]

there were a number of great  elephant sitings during my stay

 

on one night a reasonable sized group came to drink out of the swimming pool and pull down and eat some tree branches

 

asking for an explaination   and you  are told

 

 

• the water is cleaner than what comes in a waterhole, no mud, animal urine and dung, although it is treated  ,overall they prefer it
• the tree branches are for variety , given that there were plenty of trees in good condition nearby 

as before 2 honey badgers  come to camp from time to time , in the kitchen and through the lounge ,bar and dining area

 

I am told that they sometimes lie on top of the hot coals of the donkey boiler used to heat the water.

 

they made a mess at Nthambo camp a while ago, they tried to get into the kitchen ,found it blocked ,then thought lets try get in via a bathroom destroying a toilet and hand basin ,and making a hole in the floor boards in the process

[Peter Connan]

Honey badgers are indeed incredibly determined and resourcefull robbers!

[Marks]

Nice photos @COSMIC RHINO!

The detail on the rhino rubbing post is exquisite.

[Game Warden]

@COSMIC RHINO Where's your pith helmet?

[COSMIC RHINO]

I travel with a leather sun hut and have never sun pith helmets for sale in a shop

[Atravelynn]

Great analogy to use artists in a museum, and speaking of art, the rhino rubbing post is art extraordinaire.

[COSMIC RHINO]

RUBBING POSTS 

 

Some  animals like rhinos,elephants ,buffaloes ,wharthogs control insects by covering them in mud at wallow areas.

 

this smothers them ,once it dries a bit , it is rubbed of on a  tree or  a rock .

 

areas of trees or tree stubs where this happens  can become very smooth, the one I saw recently looks superb.

 

WATERHOLES  

 

the mud wallow  areas are repeatedly used  a number of times each week 

 

larger animals like elephants, rhinos are buffalo each  take away  a lot of mud with each visit 

 

the pressure of their feet  compresses the sounding earth

 

as more and more soil is removed in this way  an area is formed where rain water gathers

 

thus waterholes are formed

[COSMIC RHINO]

• honey badgers are totally beyond my understanding , it is beyond me why anyone would want to lie across hot coals
• I just happened to come upon the leopard on the termite mound during a game drive ,we were moving around and there he was 
• Chris a guide who has escaped from Zimbabwe really likes leopards and says he has good skills in finding them, even on hikes
• I really like leopards but do not like the crowd hassels coming with Timbavarti and Sabi Sands

Edited July 6, 2017 by COSMIC RHINO

[offshorebirder]

Here are some more photos @COSMIC RHINO sent me to convert + post.

 

Wider view of the Rhino rubbing post:

 

 

Rhino rubbing rock:

 

 

Leopard grooming:

 

 

Warthogs grazing:

 

 

Sunset?

 

Sunrise?

Edited July 6, 2017 by offshorebirder

[offshorebirder]

And here are some Rhino photos.   Look at the scratches on the hide of one of the Rhinos.  I wonder if they are from Acacia thorns?

 

White Rhino walking

 

White Rhino rubbing?

 

White Rhino standing

Edited July 6, 2017 by offshorebirder