Namibia 2017: Two Cats on a hot Tin Roof

[Peter Connan]

I just love "Two brothers", and the rolling Zebra.

 

Great susnet!

[Dave Williams]

I got up early to write up my report and ended up spending an hour catching up with yours Alex. As ever, great photos and made more enjoyable as they rekindled personal memories in some cases.

I can see the advantages of camping as it got you to places I wouldn't have thought about, it's also potentially a less expensive option for the accommodation and although the vehicle itself is not cheap it is capable of venturing to places an ordinary vehicle has no chance of going to. It's a shame they don't appear to rent out 4x4 camper vans!

The difference in the weather between your trip and ours was quite marked and so were some of the wildlife sightings. I'm envious of the Lovebirds and the Python! Looking through your Flamingos I didn't spot a Greater amongst the Lesser but there should be one amongst the shots you took. 

Anyway, time to put the kettle on and get on with some of my photos.

cheers Dave

 

[xelas]

7 hours ago, xyz99 said:

Lots of animals, birds and beautiful sunsets...this is the kind of trip I love. Namibia is definitely now on the list, as is Kgalagadi, both thanks to you. You and Zvezda make a wonderful team, and I love to travel through your eyes and lens. Someday I'll even get there in person

Love this TR...I will not mention any picture, because that wouldn't be fair, they are all fantastic!!!

 

Thnk you so much for your inspiring words, @xyz99 ! Whenever we do the report, it is like we travel again; and knowing that others share the same feelings is what offset for all the long hours behind the computer.

[xelas]

53 minutes ago, Dave Williams said:

I got up early to write up my report and ended up spending an hour catching up with yours Alex. As ever, great photos and made more enjoyable as they rekindled personal memories in some cases.

I can see the advantages of camping as it got you to places I wouldn't have thought about, it's also potentially a less expensive option for the accommodation and although the vehicle itself is not cheap it is capable of venturing to places an ordinary vehicle has no chance of going to. It's a shame they don't appear to rent out 4x4 camper vans!

The difference in the weather between your trip and ours was quite marked and so were some of the wildlife sightings. I'm envious of the Lovebirds and the Python! Looking through your Flamingos I didn't spot a Greater amongst the Lesser but there should be one amongst the shots you took. 

Anyway, time to put the kettle on and get on with some of my photos.

cheers Dave

 

 

They do rent 4x4 campervans and normal campervans/motorhomes. But those are, according to a quick research we have done in Olifantrus, completely inadequate for any National Park, including Etosha. Too big, too bulky, and on badly corrugated roads, first thing after returning to the camp is to look inside and wonder if any of the cupboards etc is still hanging on the wall!! While climbing the ladder, and collapsing the roof top tents (opening them is easy and quick) becomes annoying after a week or so, I would never go the campervan way. In between is the so-called "bushcamper" type of vehicle: look for detailes here: http://www.bushlore.com/Vehicles.asp . But as mentioned already, many camps are now constructing and offering fixed tents, with a proper bed and standing height inside. That is where my heart goes. And for an odd night here or there where only campsites are available, a ground tent, like that used by overlander companies, should do the job just fine.

Edited July 5, 2017 by xelas

[Chakra]

16 hours ago, xelas said:

That evening the sunset was beyond anything we have seen so far in Africa. For whoever thinks it is done in Photoshop I am happy to publish the RAW files.

 

OK , it's God's fault. He got carried away with vibrance, saturation , clarity, tint, hue..... everything in his editing palette. In my humble opinion Namibian sunsets are as colourful as aurora borealis, only if those colours could dance. 

[Peter Connan]

10 hours ago, xelas said:

 

They do rent 4x4 campervans and normal campervans/motorhomes. But those are, according to a quick research we have done in Olifantrus, completely inadequate for any National Park, including Etosha. Too big, too bulky, and on badly corrugated roads, first thing after returning to the camp is to look inside and wonder if any of the cupboards etc is still hanging on the wall!! While climbing the ladder, and collapsing the roof top tents (opening them is easy and quick) becomes annoying after a week or so, I would never go the campervan way. In between is the so-called "bushcamper" type of vehicle: look for detailes here: http://www.bushlore.com/Vehicles.asp . But as mentioned already, many camps are now constructing and offering fixed tents, with a proper bed and standing height inside. That is where my heart goes. And for an odd night here or there where only campsites are available, a ground tent, like that used by overlander companies, should do the job just fine.

 

Sorry to go off topic. @xelas, having obviously not done nearly as much research as you, what is wrong with this type of vehicle:

http://www.britz.co.za/vehicle/nissan-navi?

 

Although it only has room for two, I would have thought it is ideal for the type of travelling where one moves camp every day or two?

 

Just some thoughts from my own perspective:

The disadvantage with both these and the roof-top-tent type of solution is that one has to pack up camp to be able to go for a drive. The advantage is that, because the mattresses and bedding stay in place, that process is relatively quick.

On the converse, ground tents take a long time (not the tent itself, but the mattresses and bedding). Both ground tents and roof-top tents also mean that you have some sort of kitchen setup to un-pack.

 

While I agree that fixed tents are a great accomodation option, in most reserves I have seen them they are very expensive.

 

These are the reasons I now have a trailer, but I also have a roof-top tent (the same one I use on my trailer) and a set of ground tents, and may use either solution depending on the type of trip I am going on...

[xelas]

4 minutes ago, Peter Connan said:

Sorry to go off topic. @xelas, having obviously not done nearly as much research as you, what is wrong with this type of vehicle:

http://www.britz.co.za/vehicle/nissan-navi?

 

Nothing! In fact, the three of us have lived in one of those for 10 days in Australia! It is sturdy but still compact enough to get you around the bushes on side tracks, 4x4 is useful, and best of all, you are ready to go immediately after taking the morning bathroom visit ! Only disadvantage of this type of the car is that it only has two seats, and Zvezda is now so used to have the rear bench and two windows all to herself .

 

Regarding the RTT, two persons can do it relatively quickly. The mattress stays inside but we have removed the bedding and the pillows each time. The whole process from waking up till driving out of the camp (no breakfast !!) took us 45 minutes on average. Yet it is a very different logistics to what we have been accustomed before, staying in fixed tents/rooms/chalets.

 

I have looked at fixed tent price in Madisa camp; at 715/1020 NAD pp, self-catering, this is a mighty expensive option!!! Or, as Zvezda has been telling me all the time, I might be annoyed by the logistics of the RTT but I would be even more annoyed by the costs of the fixed tents !

[Peter Connan]

Yes, I think the fixed tents are seen as somehow being romantic or something, and are often more expensive than chalets.

 

My brother has a great camper. Similar to the one I linked to, except that it can be off-loaded from the pickup truck it is mounted on.

When using it on the vehicle, it takes less than 5 minutes to pitch camp. Off-loading it, or re-loading it, takes about 45 minutes. This to me is the perfect option for two people. They can also be built on double-cabs, but they still only have room for two in the bed...

[xelas]

1 hour ago, Peter Connan said:

They can also be built on double-cabs, but they still only have room for two in the bed...

 

OK, this would be a perfect solution for us! Is there anything available on the second hand market?

[xelas]

It was time to move further east. Yet, on previous two evenings, we have listened to fellow campers telling us about a pride of lions moving around Olifantrus. Thus we have decided to try once more. We drove right towards Dolomite Camp. Light was beautiful but long grass did nothing to ease our quest. Springboks and other grazers were staying chest deep in the tall golden grass.

 

 

 

 

 

Time to change the tactics, and to put more attention to the signs on the road. Bingo! There they are, imprints of lion paws in the soft sand of the road. But they are heading the opposite direction. So U-turn, and slowly following them. At one m,moment they disappeared into the grass. No luck this time, we thought, and drove towards the camp. Then, at the last waterhole, we have seen a car parked hallway between the main road and the waterhole. A car in such a position is always a good sign. We approached it, two ladies inside, and after asking them wht+y they have stopped here, one replied: "Lions. There."

 

OK, lions, but where?? Only golden grass swaying in the light breeze. Or was it not the breeze? Sharp eyes and binoculars solved the mistery ... there is a lion! 

 

 

 

 

 

Two couples! They were mostly lying low, and after about 15 minutes the two ladies decided to drive away. And not more than 5 minutes later one couple decided to move also! I was in a hurry to U-turn the vehicle again, as I have assumed they will want to cross the road, and I wanna be on the better side of it when that happens. Too late, they reach the road before me, and effectively blocked the traffic by lying almost on it! Still good position for decent photos. 

 

 

 

 

 

An impatient driver tried hard to get through, but he came too close to the lions, and the male stood up and stepped in the middle of the road, blocking the vehicle. And when it roared (not that loud, just a warning roar) the driver reversed quickly. After a while all calmed down, and we have the chance to squeeze past two lions, driving very slowly, and with all windows shut.

 

On the right side of the sun we stopped again, opened the windows and got some great photos, IMHO.

 

 

 

 

 

"Haven't I told you a thousand times to behave in front of strangers?!"

 

"Hey, bro, what is with this lady?"

 

"No idea, bro. Your lady your fun."

 

 

 

[Peter Connan]

 

Not often, but I am sure it will happen from time to time. Having no money, and being quite happy with my own car, I don't really pay attention to the classifieds...

[TonyQ]

A wonderful report with superb photos and very enjoyable writing. You make a great team.

[xelas]

That was what western side of Etosha has given to us. Personally I was more then please with what we saw. To conclude the western section, a few words and photos about Olifantrus Camp. This one is the newest addition the the park, alongside with new quarters at Galton Gate. It is a small but only proper camp in that area of park. Saying this, I have real troubles to understand why the management of the park has named the Dolomite Camp as a camp?! It does not even has a campsite, only tented cabins!! 

 

Anyway, campers now have a place to stay. A small one, and not that much comfortable, but still, a place to pitch the tent (OK, to park the car) in the area which is otherwise serviced only by Dolomite Camp. As it is a new establishment everything worked, and was well maintained. Surprisingly, for those that were guests of other establishments inside Etosha, the staff here feels you welcomed, and are friendly and helpful. 

 

Campsites are smaller in size, and since there are no trees to give the shade, a manmade shades have been erected at each site. And two or three sites share a common electric outlet. Which might become a problem if a group came in. The washroom and showers and toilets were clean. There is a separate kitchen and eating room. Shop is small and basically only has meat and drinks. In same room a cafe shop can prepare a quick hot snack if needed.

 

Camp is open to all visitors of the park, and there is a shaded area with braai for their use. And rightly so as the main attraction of this campsite is a modern two storey hide. From the ground level one can have an eye-to-eye contact with an elephant drinking from the waterhole which is just next to the hide. During night time, visibility is not that good due to very weak lights, and taking photos almost impossible.

 

Picnic area

 

Kitchen and dinning room

 

Our campsite; I did not asked what is below the concrete top ...

 

Shaded inner parking lot

 

View over the whole camp

 

Main attraction

 

 

Before ending the report about the west part Etosha, I have to officially apologies to our daughter Tanja. I have been informed that all skinks and geckoes were photographed by herself. Here I add two more, both inhabitants of Olifantrus Camp. I have no idea of which species they are so any help is welcomed!

 

 

 

[PeterHG]

Great photos of the lions and a wonderful background story!

[Hads]

@xelas not sure how I missed your report and am on board now, really enjoying it thanks.

[xelas]

4 hours ago, Hads said:

@xelas not sure how I missed your report and am on board now, really enjoying it thanks.

 

Must be due to Self driving is a new section. Thanks for encouraging words.

[xelas]

Central Etosha / Okakuejo Camp

 

Distance between Olifantrus Camp and Okakuejo Camp is 125 km; not the most scenic kilometres inside Etosha, yet as there are 7 waterholes before Charl Maraisdam, driving is slow. Almost midday but still we were able to see some new animals, and some which we were already familiar with, and even a scenic landscape shot here and there.

 

Our first elephant in Etosha

 

Yellow mongoose, the cutest of the mongoose family

 

 

One big bull in one harsh light

 

Cuddling in the sun

 

 

Where the Blue wildebeest looks fits better?

 

In the mud ...

 

... or among the flowers?

 

 

Etosha is place where even a 200mm can become a landscape lens.

 

A very lonely tree

 

 

White Stork and Marabou Stork belongs to the same family but they surely do not compete in same beauty pageant show.

 

 

 

I know the birds but I have troubles with identifying the snack

 

 

 

[xelas]

We needed about 4 1/2 hours to reach Okakuejo Camp. At that hour the reception was empty and the check-in quick. We have been surprised when the key was handed over but more about that part later. After examining the sighting book I have decided to check out Okondeka waterhole first as lions were spotted there. A huge amount of vultures indicated the kill was made but we cannot spot any cats in that area. We did noticed one car also looking for them but I have decided not to approach it and that was my mistake, on two accounts. First was they could show us where the cats were, and the second will be revealed in the Halali segment of this report.

 

Vultures trying to get a meal

 

Cats are somewhere ... there ... but where?

 

Fellow travellers

 

 

Not having luck with cats this time around we have dedicated our attention to birds. The Double-banded Courser probably asking itself how could I misidentify his/her cousin. Well, it is much easier to do properly when looking in the chest .

 

 

A female Northern Black Koorhan

 

 

The setting sun started to add golden light to the nature. A pleasure time for any photographer.

 

Another landscape shot at 200mm

 

 

Golden jackal?! No, just a Black-back one

 

 

Back in the camp close inspection of the famous waterhole showed that all the best spots were already taken. Not that this fact was any matter to us (a slight spoiler here).

 

Waiting for the procession

 

 

Myself, i don't fancy nighttime photography, if not for the night sky. The light, either from the spotlight or from the fixed light at the waterhole is usually too weak for any details. And after a long day behind the steering wheel, I do need my beauty sleep. But the ladies took full advantage of our surprise and spent the better part of the night up and awake. This one I liked the most.

 

Horses in pyjamas

[xelas]

Looking through photos, this day was probably the least interesting wildlife day we have had in Etosha. What makes it still a great safari day was the presence of hundreds if not thousands of Zebras on the plains close to Okondeka waterhole. We have named this day as "Zebra Convention 2017 in Okakuejo" day ! They were arriving in long colons, from different directions but all directing towards the waterhole. As it was a flat terrain where we have stopped the car, the perspective for photographing the huge numbers were not good at all. Thus Zvezda has concentrated on where the action was.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The midday heat started several huge dust devils, almost a dust tornados.

 

 

 

Afternoon was dedicated to birds. The forested area between Gembsbokvlakte, Olifantsbad (a very picturesque waterhole) and Aus looked very much in stark contrast to savannah type of plains towards Okondeka.

 

Shaft-tailed Wydah

 

Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill with a huge insect

 

African Grey Hornbill couple

 

 

The sight of the day we have had near Nebrowni waterhole; Blue Crane! This one was a lifer! Well, that is not such a surprise, quite many birds are still a lifer for us .

 

A courting dance?

 

 

If yes, obviously not too successful one

 

 

Several thousands hooves have lifted enough dust in the air so that setting sun has coloured everything in orange.

 

 

 

Last photo of the day was taken from near the waterhole in Okakuejo camp

 

 

Edited July 13, 2017 by xelas

[janzin]

Wow love the zebras in the dust and the orange sky, beautiful shot.  Also the first zebra "action" shot is spectacular!

 

 

[PeterHG]

Beautiful action shots of the Zebras and the 'dust' shot at the waterhole is just stunning!

[xelas]

Dear @janzin and @PeterHG , Zvezda thanks you for your kind comments! And myself, I am honoured to have chosen the right photos .

[Dave Williams]

Get a move on Alex... I am in suspense re the Lions and Halali !

You mention the sightings book at Okaukeujo, when I looked at it it was full of childish scribbles. Is it the same one, the one in the visitor centre opposite the arrivals office?

 

[xelas]

2 hours ago, Dave Williams said:

Get a move on Alex... I am in suspense re the Lions and Halali !

You mention the sightings book at Okaukeujo, when I looked at it it was full of childish scribbles. Is it the same one, the one in the visitor centre opposite the arrivals office?

 

 I think so. Right side of the reception desk. Lions are on their way !

[Dave Williams]

1 minute ago, xelas said:

 I think so. Right side of the reception desk. Lions are on their way !

 

That's a different book then. I missed that one, I went to the building opposite which is the visitor centre and looked at the book there. Perhaps the childish comments and scribbles were about the exhibits in there?