From Cape and Coast to way up North (SA 2017)

[xelas]

The light on the hartebeest is just amazing, @@PeterHG !

[PeterHG]

Thanks @@xelas, the Kgalagadi provides some beautiful scenes!

[PeterHG]

11. More Kgalagadi

For the duration of our stay in the Kgalagadi the days start at 5:30 am. Our first morning drive takes us south from the Kalahari Tented Camp to the 13th Borehole. It has rained heavily the night before, so the grass is even greener and the puddles in the road are even larger. Although the park rules state clearly that the resident antelopes and predators are obliged to make use of the official waterholes, anarchy prevails . No animals to be seen at Sitsas, Craig Lockhart, Dalkeith or the 14th borehole. There is compensation, though. At Craig Lockhart we now see two Verreaux’s Eagle Owls. Impressive size!

Also a handsome Black-chested Snake Eagle shows beautifully

as well as the equally handsome Black-winged Kite. I have trouble keeping up with taxonomy changes, so I mostly persist in calling it a Black-shouldered Kite….

The fact that the waterholes are quiet does not mean there are no animals to be seen. There are the ubiquitous Springbok

and Gemsbok

and, always one of our favorites, the Giraffe

When we were in Malgas 2 weeks ago I saw the Capped Wheatear, but not nearly as nice views as in the Kgalagadi

Lesser Grey Shrike

and Crimson-breasted Shrike.

One of the most characteristic birds-of-prey of the park is the Pale Chanting Goshawk. Not a day goes by without seeing several of these beautiful, stern-looking raptors. The juveniles appear to be more approachable that the adults, but we do get lucky every now and then.

Our afternoon drive produces more of the same, but also a rather shaggy-looking Black-backed Jackal. This is towards the end of the drive, in grey weather, so I have to up the iso again, even to iso 6400 this time. The 7DII does not perform poorly at all.

When we are some 10 km from the camp, we see three cars that have stopped and appear to be looking at the dunes. Suddenly we see three Cheetas walking down from the dune and briefly showing themselves in the adjacent bushes. They don’t actually cross the road as they probably intended to, possibly because behind us, two cars are reversing noisily to keep up with the advancing Cheetas. We are extremely happy with the sighting of these graceful cats. One of the most hoped-for targets of the whole trip!

We barely make it to the camp before 7:30, but who cares?

Edited April 7, 2017 by PeterHG

[Towlersonsafari]

very nice cheetah-and Kalahari Tented camp was one of our favourites @@PeterHG

[xelas]

Looking right into your eyes, what a sight (and photo)!

[PeterHG]

12. Mata Mata

 

We move from the Kalahari Tented Camp to Mata Mata. We get cabin number 4, which is hemmed in between 3 and 6, thus having no window at all in the bedroom. Other than that it is conveniently close to the hide and we have great neighbors, two South African journalists, who make a trip to the Kgalagadi every year. Experienced travelers with an extensive knowledge of the park. Good photographers, too, which is not surprising as the have been doing just that for many years. And a mine of information regarding not only the park, but also South African politics. We spend an enjoyable evening talking with them. The only less enjoyable moment is when they show us the pictures of a cheetah kill they have taken in the morning. A female cheetah with her jaws around an unfortunate little Steenbok.’The first cheetah kill I have witnessed in forty years’ , one of them claims proudly. Beautiful pictures. I am not even a little bit jealous…

On our own morning drive from Mata Mata the next day we meet the usual Springbok and Gemsbok again and also our favorite giants, the giraffe.

No shortage of birds:

Shaft-tailed Whydah

Yellow Canary

Scaly-feathered Finch (or weaver as it's also known)

A Tawny Eagle taking a bath in one of the roadside pools

Yellow-billed Hornbill

Lilac-breasted Roller

From the car window I notice how a Tawny Eagle soars closer and closer to a Bateleur. It is clear they are not fond of one another and there may be some interaction. I grab the camera, up the shutter speed and lean out of the window to grab some of the action. And I do get it..

I am very happy with this chance for action photography. The confrontation looked more serious than it actually was, but even so a great sight.

The afternoon does not offer much else, but the dune ridges always make for a nice ending of the day.

[xelas]

Duel In The Sky ... what a sequence, @@PeterHG ! Congratulations!

[elefromoz]

@@PeterHG, I really like the Tawny lifting up from the puddle, a beautiful photo. Most photos Ive seen, have them just sitting on a branch,they put on a good show for you.

[optig]

I particularly like the photos of the shrikes. I would like to visit Kalahari Tented Camp.

[PeterHG]

Thanks @@xelas, @@elefromoz,@@optig!

 

The Kgalagadi is a very special place and I am sure you would like the Kalahari Tented Camp very much @@optig!

[michael-ibk]

Fighting Eagles, what an awesome sequence!

[PeterHG]

13. To Nossob

 

Time to move to Nossob. Following the advice of our South African friends we take the southern dune road. They think we may have a good chance of finding the Cheetah family of mother and four cubs they spotted the day before near Auchterlonie. Well, definitely worth a try. It is a long drive, but the various loops we follow come up with some nice sightings.

A beautiful juvenile Pale Chanting Goshawk

Another Black-winged Kite

Giraffes on the dune ridge

Then we pull up behind a car that is showing interest in some large trees in the distance. We have found the promised Cheetahs! They are resting in the shade of one of the trees and we marvel at how invisible they are in spite of their size. You could drive past them without ever realizing they were there.

A Black-backed Jackal is watching them intently. He nervously ventures closer, but at the first sign of movement from the Cheetahs, makes off again. He lies down under another tree and every now and then comes back to see if they are finally prepared to go hunting.

No such luck and, after spending some precious time with the family, we drive on.

The dune road is Korhaan territory and we hear them regularly. One male is calling right by the side of the road, giving us ample opportunity for some photos.

A Steenbok briefly stands still in the middle of the road.

At the Nossob side we see an immature Martial Eagle, taking off from the ridge.

Fawn-colored Lark

And Secretary Bird.

At the edge of one of the puddles in the road, an immature Brown Snake Eagle eyes us suspiciously, but lets us come pretty close anyway.

Many of the puddles have large gatherings butterflies, taking to the air as we pass.

As we approach Nossob rest camp we are amazed at the number of Yellow-billed Kites in the trees.

And quite a few Black Storks, too.

We like Nossob immediately. We get a nice chalet close to the hide and do some shopping in the little shop in the camp. New roads to discover in the morning.....

[PeterHG]

On our morning drive from Nossob, we take the north road as far as the Kousant waterhole. Lots of water on the road, which requires careful driving. The rains have hit here even harder than on the western side of the park. Our Hilux performs admirably, though we even meet some struggling sedans on the drive. This is us, taken by our South African friends.

Quite unexpectedly we come across some Namaqua Sandgrouse, absent at all the waterholes we visited, but attracted by the puddles in the road. The first time I see a male and what a beautiful bird this is!

We do not see any predators on this stretch, but there is no shortage of Lesser Grey Shrikes

When we return to Nossob for lunch we get a better view of the Black Storks from the hide.

In the afternoon we go south. Again, no predators. There are still lots of Yellow-billed Kites near the camp, but further along the road we see its cousin, the Black Kite. The only one of our trip.

We spend some time waiting and watching at the Marie Se Draai waterhole on our way back, but apart from a Gemsbok, nothing else shows up

In the evening we visit the hide for an hour or so. Two jackals venture near and also two Verreaux’s Eagle Owls. One of them has grabbed a big prey. In the dim moonlight we can see it struggling in the owl’s grip. Could be a Korhaan by the size of it. After 20 minutes the struggle is over and the owl starts plucking at it. No chance for a photo, but quite a sight.

The next day we get up at 6 and hear a lion roar not far away. We rush to the hide, where we find a dozen people already there. Two male lions are quietly walking away in the distance. Apparently the have been at the waterhole since five, giving great views to those who had gathered at the early wake-up call. My wife tells me she has also heard the sound at five, but had thought nothing of it and went back to sleep again. Don’t worry. Our marriage is pretty strong

We drive off a little later, on our way to Kieliekrankie. The puddles in the roads are drying out, but the the combination of water and mud even manages to ground our Hilux in 4x4 mode. My mistake: the left and right side of the puddle looked the same, but I gambled on the wrong one. This is what usually happens in supermarkets, when I try to try to choose the best queue at the check-out, so I’m used to it. After an hour and 15 minutes a friendly guy in another 4x4 pulled us out.

The dune road leading to the camp again has Black Korhaan. Their loud calls during the display flights make them hard to miss

Some Ostriches have a bit of an argument.

Kieliekranke is a small camp with fabulous views and sunsets. The waterhole is quite distant, but is only visited by a Steenbok anyway. The Sociable Weavers seem to like it here, too. And each other.

[Tdgraves]

@@PeterHG your black stork is an Abdim's stork - I've never seen one!

[PeterHG]

@@PeterHG your black stork is an Abdim's stork - I've never seen one!

 

Ah, of course, @@Tdgraves! Thank you, it goes to show that I should not get lazy and check properly what I've seen...

[Towlersonsafari]

@@PeterHG we were once waiting for the gates to open at Nossob when a guy ran past us and several other vehicles.about 10 minutes later he ran back, still not saying a word. then he walked up to us moaning that the lions and cubs he had been watching from the nossob hide had gone and his run back to his chalet to wake his wife and tell her about the lions had been in vain. nobody was sympathetic at all! He could have told us as he was running by!!! very much enjoying your report of the KTP in the wet

[PeterHG]

15. Twee Rivieren

 

As it is only a short drive from Kieliekrankie to Twee Rivieren we decide to take a drive north first as far as Montrose. Pleasant enough but apart form the usual Pale Chanting Goshawks, Black Korhaan and Ground Squirrel rather empty.

When we turn back and approach Monro waterhole, we spot some some movement underneath a large Camelthorn tree. We stop and take out the binoculars. Two lions, male and female are lying down beside a dead Gemsbok. Recently killed as it seems, for it has not been touched yet. Well, except for the kill maybe . The couple seems to be in no hurry to start their meal. Instead the lioness gets up and, with tail raised, walks closely past the lion. Clearly an invitation and not a minute later we witness them mating. Unfortunately they are facing the other way, but we decide to wait as the process will surely be repeated. It takes another 20 minutes but, sure enough the lioness ties the initiative again and this time the couple are facing us. At quite a distance and in the shade, but good enough to try and take some shots.

We are the only car there, which makes it even better. We decide to leave the couple and come back in the afternoon. There is little doubt they will still be in the neighborhood. After all, there is a healthy meal waiting for them.

And we do find them again, later that afternoon. They even come to the waterhole to drink. Of course facing the other way again, but after they have quenched their thirst they walk to the road and lie down in front of us. We now see that the male lion has had a little argument with a porcupine, who has left its quill in the lion’s cheek. He does not seem too bothered by it and when we see him again the next day, the quill has gone.

I do like monochrome every now and then, even in colorful Africa...

 

After spending half an hour the lions retreat to the side of the road and we continue our trip. Another Camelthorn has more treasures for us. A little head pops up from the grass and is spotted immediately by my wife. We pull up again and more heads appear. It is the Cheetah family of five we have seen before. To our delight they also walk in our direction and even cross the road in front of us. We are looking into the late afternoon light, which is not ideal for photography, but who’s complaining? We feel very privileged to see the Cheetahs so close.

Then it’s time to turn back as the deadline for the gate is approaching. Then we suddenly see a small animal in the bushes, just before the roads curves away from the riverbed. A Cape Fox. We’ve never seen one before, so we do need a little time to look at it properly.

Of course this means putting our foot down again for the last stretch to twee Rivieren (within the speed limits, don’t worry). This always seems to happen, for it’s often at that time when the good ones show themselves!

Edited April 18, 2017 by PeterHG

[xelas]

That was a busy day for photographer, @@PeterHG ! While both lions and cheetahs are impressive cats, I fancy the Cape Fox photo. Something sweet and soft in it.

[lmSA84]

@@PeterHG - lovely photography as usual. I'm jealous of the sandgrouse - I searched high and low at KTP and Witsand but the heavy rainfall had pushed them away from the waterholes

[PeterHG]

@@PeterHG - lovely photography as usual. I'm jealous of the sandgrouse - I searched high and low at KTP and Witsand but the heavy rainfall had pushed them away from the waterholes

Thanks,@ lmSA84! Yes, we were very lucky to find them in the road. The only ones we saw; like you said they didn't come to any of the waterholes anymore.

[Peter Connan]

Wow! Incredible sightings and great photography!

[PeterHG]

16. Farewell to Kgalagadi

 

Our last day in the Kgalagadi already. It’s always incredible how quickly the days go by with a trip one has been looking forward to for so long. We take the Nossob road in the morning. The weather is good and there are plenty of birds around. Right outside the camp we see a juvenile Gabar Goshawk and a curious Black-backed Jackal.

 

 

At Leeuwdril waterhole a Falcon is quietly eying prospective prey. When I look at it through the binoculars it turns out to be a Red-necked Falcon, a lifer for me.

Bateleur are present too and they are always a joy to see.

Tawny Eagle

A female Ostrich performs a strange dancing display when a male approaches her. At first I think it is some kind of mating ritual, but in the shade of a tree I spot another male, with a number of chicks. Clearly they are her own and she is in fact trying to distract the stranger and keep him away from her off-spring. When he doesn’t seem to get the message she changes tactics and chases him away with great determination.

A Secretary Bird ventures close enough for a shot.

In the afternoon we decide to see if the lions are still with their Gemsbok kill. They are and the couple has company. A second female and some teenagers are hanging about, too far and too much in the shade for any decent photography. When the male leaves the prey for some flirtations with the first female, the second one sees her change and tries to get some of the meat. The male is having none of it and rushes back to claim his prize once again. Great to be watching behavior like that. No other car present at the time.

We have decided to book an evening drive as a farewell to the Kgalagadi. We are told it is going to be a sunset drive, which leaves and returns earlier that an evening drive. Apparently the first booking for either decides what it is going to be and some people had already asked for a sunset drive. We would have like the other option as it would give us some more time in the dark, but we’ll settle for the alternative. We need not have worried. Apart from the guide and what seems to be his (prospective) wife/girlfriend there are 5 guests, including ourselves. Two of the guests are young Italian pilots. One is already involved in aerial lion surveys and the other is training to do that. Their eyesight is incredible.

We start out with admiring a reunion between a lioness and her cubs. We had heard her calling for them for some time.

Then our guide points to a tiny falcon in one of the trees: a Pygmy Falcon. The second of the trip.

There is a large group of Springbok at the Samenvloeiing waterhole. We’ve already seen hundreds of them, but we still admire their grace and beauty. This is the male.

Grace and beauty are perhaps not the words that spring to mind for the Wildebeest.

The sunlight is fading when we see our first of the owls, a Spotted Eagle Owl. I already need iso 6400 for a decent shot. I don't like to use the flash.

One of the Sociable Weaver nests (they are huge!) offers accommodation to a Barn Owl. The spotlight is aimed at a lower spot of the tree, so as not to disturb the bird. Just enough light for a shot.

After that it is completely dark. Then the eyesight of the pilots begins to pay off. They both operate a spotlight and manage to pick up the briefest of reflections in the eyes of Wild Cats......(here the light does touch the cat for a moment)

...... Cape Foxes, Scrubhares and even a Genet. Our guide is so pleased with that that he willingly extends the trip to way beyond the usual return time. A fitting ending to our Kgalagadi adventure. With still something to wish for next time: we have not seen any Hyenas or Bat-eared Foxes. But who's complaining, we saw so much in this unique and wonderful place!

[Peter Connan]

If that Barn owl nest is about 10km from Twee Rivieren on the Nossob road, then the good news is, they are still there.

 

Great sightings!

[PeterHG]

If that Barn owl nest is about 10km from Twee Rivieren on the Nossob road, then the good news is, they are still there.

 

Great sightings!

 

It is, @@Peter Connan! So you saw them as well?

[PeterHG]

The last stretch

We leave the Kgalagadi for our last stay: the Augrabies Falls National Park. The Tour Operator booked us a room in the Falls Guesthouse, just a few kilometers from the entrance to the park. Not a big deal, one might think, but a mistake even so. The scenery in the park is absolutely beautiful and that beauty is al the more apparent, certainly from a photographer’s point of view, when the sun sets in the evening. However the entrance gate closes at six, forcing us to leave the park before the most golden hours of the day. Next time we’ll make sure to stay inside the park.

The gate itself, or rather the ranger attending it, is yet another story. As we enter we show our Wild Card and fill in the usual forms with car registration number, addresses, phone numbers, passport numbers, birth dates, bank accounts, and other, undoubtedly essential, information for our visit. We know the drill and it only takes half an hour . When we return to go to our accommodation the ranger smiles and tells us we cannot leave like this. It seems we should have gone to the reception inside the park with our forms and Wild Card, fill in another form with basically the same information, get a receipt and show this at the exit. So we obediently drive back the 6 kilometers or so to the rest camp, work our way through the procedure there (very friendly staff also) and return to the gate half an hour later. Lesson learned for the next day…

We do not see a lot of wildlife in Augrabies, but the falls are magnificent and the drive to various viewpoints excellent.

We do see a Klipspringer

Some Red-eyed Bulbuls

and a colorful lizard

After Augrabies we drive south again, with a one-night stop in Calvinia. Not really necessary; we could have drive all the way to Stellenbosch with an early start. In Stellenbosch we spend a few hours sightseeing with our South African journalist friends. They left the Kgalagadi before we did and had told us to call them (they live in Cape Town) when we were in the neighborhood. They give us a very pleasant tour of the town. We then spend our last African night in the Knorhoek Guesthouse. I hand my guitar to the guy at the reception and ask him if he knows someone who would be happy to take it off my hands. He mentions the local music school and I agree to donate it to them. He will make sure the school will get it and will send me a mail confirming that. To this day I haven’t heard from him, but I hope someone is still playing the instrument.

This concludes our trip to South Africa and southern Namibia. The interruption was sad, but we thoroughly enjoyed the adventure. The southern regions are beautiful and hold many good birding spots, though the pelagic was the absolute highlight there. The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is an amazing place, which we certainly would like another look at and our few days in Namibia have given us a taste for the country. In fact we are already preparing for a trip there next year, including Etosha, the Kunene region, the Caprivi strip and the Okavango Panhandle.

In the six weeks we saw 252 bird species, two of which were only identified after working my way through the photos. We saw 25 species of mammals,(no elephants this time), took 7000 photos, including 1 selfie (I’m just not fond of them, but the family insists ) and drove some 5000 kilometers.

Thank you all for sticking with me on the trip and for all the likes and comments. Our Africa addiction is getting more incurable each year.

Edited May 7, 2017 by PeterHG