Camels,Cakes, and the ever illusive lightning; Indisposed in Kenya

[Towlersonsafari]

Your wife's response to the snake trick is similar to Jane's response to my gentle spider teasing-but Jane uses more violence! enjoying your report @dio

[Caracal]

Yes I too love the elephants in single file and I'm taken with that shot of the ostriches crossing in front of that lovely backdrop.

 

Enjoying it all @@dlo - (except of course for that dodgy stomach spoiling things for you).

[dlo]

@@dlo Maybe the cut tusk bit was Kenyan humour? Yes, it's best not to argue these things unless you have photographic or audio evidence - actually, even then i'd probably be better off if I let it be.

 

Love the elephants in a line and a nice, close view of a Giant Kingfisher (damn that branch though!)

 

Khat is a controversial topic I think.

 

The khat conversation got quite heated and we had no knowledge or desire to get involved. The main gist of it all really concerned the pesticides and risk of cancer that Mauriccio was debating with them.

 

Your wife's response to the snake trick is similar to Jane's response to my gentle spider teasing-but Jane uses more violence! enjoying your report @dio

 

Yes I too love the elephants in single file and I'm taken with that shot of the ostriches crossing in front of that lovely backdrop.

 

Enjoying it all @@dlo - (except of course for that dodgy stomach spoiling things for you).

 

It seems Jane is required to use violence quite often against you, this should probably tell you something!

 

I really appreciate your comments. I have lost all momentum as I'm suffering from post safari blues and just generally sick of our long winter. Almost done though and should be done soon.

[dlo]

We were a little slow to get going on our drive from Meru to Nanyuki and because we ended up dropping off our cook and Peterson on the way we didn't get to Nanyuki and then Karisia untill 2:30 making this a basically long travel day. This was our only driving day on this trip but I have covered most of East and Southern Africa on the ground including a 2 and 3 month trips mostly on the ground. But as @@michael-ibk said in his report about one of his drives this was a lousy drive and easily the most uncomfortable we have ever felt in all these drives. A lot of angry looking young men including 4 guys who made a quick approach to our car with some words for our drivers who looked very uncomfortable and quickly drove away. We had no cameras out or pointed at anyone which I have seen anger some people before and from Isiolo onward things were fine.

 

After surviving about a half hour of very bumpy roads we arrived at our bush camp along the Ewaso Nyiro river and of course we are on our own! This is pure bush camping sleeping on the ground with a mattress and a long drop and bucket shower. We are met by about 10 staff with our head guide being Rana and although he was my absolute favourite I believe his name is Kishane who lead the way as our spotter and gunbearer. Always quick with a smile he had us laughing a bunch of times even though I speak no Masai and he speaks almost no English. One thing I won't forget is his concern for me when I became sick with both him and Rana checking on me regularly.

 

We did a very short walk on our first day and as would be the case for the most part you really concentrate on the small stuff and you need to be very stealthy to get close to anything. Lots of talk about the little things like dung beetle balls and elephant chewing gum and a few dead hedgehogs and leopard tortoises.

 

 

 

 

 

Typical scenery, lots of hills and kopjes all around

 

Sorry @@Caracal this was the usual state of tortoises on our walks!

 

 

[dlo]

A terrible nights sleep I heard lions and hyenas but they proved elusive on our walks. Accompanying us on our walks would be 1 camel which we had the option of riding at any time. We both passed on it today a day which turned into one with some nice little sightings. We started off with an eagle owl that would not allow us to get to close but when we got to his tree provided us with the remains of his dinner, a hedgehog carcass and a lot of feathers. Fun was had when we happened upon a baboon spider which the guys finally fished out of the ground with a small stick. Hilarity ensued when this huge spider came lunging a bit off his stick causing everyone to jump away quite quickly.

 

After tea under a tree watching some giraffe we stumble into a small herd of elephant but we discover more behind us so the guys move us away from that situation. The bush is so think we get no photos at all and we have quickly move away. Plenty more giraffe and zebra including a few grevy as well.

 

 

Don't get any closer.

 

I'm outta here.

 

The remains of lunch.

 

Our only baboon spider shot, we were to busy running away!

 

Finally we get one that's still alive.

 

Chris ended the day pulling a thorn out her foot, stuck on a wait a minute and many ant bites. She still has scars on her legs today!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a long chat with Rana we have dinner and since I finished my cipro this morning its time for a tusker my first beer since Governors. After a lot of walking and no sleep last night its an early night and we hope for more elephant and maybe a cat or dog tomorrow.

[Caracal]

Bet that Tusker tasted good @@dlo !

 

Not sure where Karisia is so I'm hoping you can clarify where you are in relation to say Samburu, Buffalo Springs or Shaba.

 

Always enjoy those reticulated giraffes and Grevy Zebras. As for those leopard tortoises I have to tell you @@dlo I've never seen one Dead or Alive!

[dlo]

Bet that Tusker tasted good @@dlo !

 

Not sure where Karisia is so I'm hoping you can clarify where you are in relation to say Samburu, Buffalo Springs or Shaba.

 

Always enjoy those reticulated giraffes and Grevy Zebras. As for those leopard tortoises I have to tell you @@dlo I've never seen one Dead or Alive!

 

Karisia is in Northern Laikipia about 2 hours north of Nanyuki, and east of Lewa if that helps

[dlo]

Our last day on safari and for the first time ever I wanted to be anywhere but on safari. The stomach started rumbling early and often and led to me stumbling out of the tent and checking for either lions or hyena which we heard through the night. Not feeling well at all for breakfast I got 2 spoons of oatmeal down and called it at that. My stubbornness won out though and we headed off on our walk. It was strictly one foot in front of the other stuff and I don't remember to much of it. We stop at some kopjes I guess which they use as a nice viewpoint but provides a pretty good scramble to get to the top. I hesitate for a minute but I refuse to be a baby and somehow make it to the top but with very little grace involved.

 

The view is really great and we are able to spot some elephant in the distance and I spend most of the time watching the rock hyrax play around. I sit myself on a rock until everyone is ready to go and I let the boys know I can't go on. I stumble down to the bottom and when the camel is offered I laugh as there is no way I can handle swaying around on that thing. Chris hops on and gives me a good chuckle as she almost topples over the front but manages to keep a grip and she rides all the way back to camp.

 

My best sighting of the day happens right after this as we must have scared an African wild cat and he quickly runs from us before we can even get the camera out! Back at camp I alternate between the bathroom and lying down. The stomach pain hit just before we got back to camp and I have never felt anything like it. I brushed off any talk of going to a hospital and reasoned since we were flying to Nairobi tomorrow I could go then if it got worse. Lunch would not be eaten and I talked Chris into going on a walk that afternoon as there was nothing anyone could do for me anyway, she would be grateful and I will forever be jealous of this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[dlo]

Chris's walk started with some zebra and impala but then she got what we really wanted to see. Elephant and lots of them, maybe 20 to 25 and they were pretty close. This isn't Mana Pools so when they heard a young male close by but separated from the group they had to quickly move back before he smelt them. They ended up following these elephants for over half an hour before it started getting dark.

 

Back at camp I tried to drink some rehydration fluids and I had a tiny amount of food but nothing was staying down and I was actually getting a little concerned about my stomach pain The night was no better than the day had been but I managed a little sleep before waking up well before dawn after a quick downpour in the night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Go away bird

 

Hoopoe

 

 

 

Pied wagtail

 

Firefinch

 

 

 

 

 

 

[dlo]

Rana came to check on me in the morning and I finally had to give in that I needed a doctor. There was no way I wanted to even do a short flight today the way I felt so they made some call and we left early to go to the hospital in Nanyuki. The first hour of that drive is one of those African back massage roads and Chris said I grimaced the whole way and the guys looked overly concerned.

 

We finally made it to a hospital whose name I can't remember but I have to say just like in Namibia it was great and the doctor and nurses were fantastic. They gave me lord knows how many injections and 2 different painkillers when the first did nothing for me and they did all the samples and blood work very quickly as our flight was in a few hours thanks to it being delayed.

 

The doctor was super concerned and although someone from Karisia's office came in to help me through the process and kept saying we had to catch our flight she was having none of it and wanted to admit me as I looked rougher than usual and she felt no airline would let me on there plane! Compromises were reached though they made me lie down and they gave me an IV as I was so dehydrated. I don't even remember everything she said but I had some kind of parasite and she gave a whack of pills and let me go on my merry way.

 

Everyone at Karisia was obviously fantastic as were the porini guys when we landed in Nairobi. At the Fairview they gave me bananas and toast at no charge and even gave me a few to take to the room. I manged some soup that night and a little breakfast the next morning though I was again bitter to miss out on the great buffet! Feeling slightly better I did now want to waste our last day so we got a cab for the day and went shopping. I actually felt better as the day went on and managed a full meal before our midnight flight home. The only hitch on the 30 hours to get home happened half way through the first flight and by the end of that flight the stewerdess asked if I needed medical attention when we landed. I laughed that off and we slept in the Yotel for a few hours and then we headed home.

 

The end.

 

I was far to sick to make it in time for these photos!

 

 

To everyone who read, commented and liked any of this thank you for taking the time to join me on my safari.

 

Darren

 

 

[michael-ibk]

Wow, not the way one wants a great trip like this to end. Very sorry about your health problems, I hope you got better at home quickly?

 

Well, on the bright side, it happened at the very end and you could enjoy most of your safari. Lots of great sigthings for you and Chris!

 

I really enjoyed your report, comparing our experiences, and I especially liked seeing Meru - I do have unfinished business with that park since my stay there was much too short.

 

So, any plans for the next one already?

[pault]

Last day is definitely the time to get sick! Some kind of parasite sounds nasty.

 

I like the camel shots - something different and nice. Not sure about the dead hedgehog - it'snot really selling the place to me. Live tortoise is better.

 

Enjoyed following you both around. Very entertaining, So... overall feeling? Now you're well again.

 

 

 

The camel mounting was clearly entertaining to all. All I can say is I am glad nobody took a picture of me while the camel was standing up.

[Caracal]

I agree with @@pault - "Live tortoise is better" - but dead in some ways is better than none!

 

Seriously though that landscape in Laikipia looks wide,wild,and wonderful and brings back that yearning for Africa.

 

The photo in #135 of the moran guide/tracker shows how close the elephants were - it must have been a vey special and memorable walk for Chris.

 

So sorry about your illness at the end - but very comforting to know that you got such good treatment.

 

Thank you @@dlo for such an informative and entertaining report.

 

Trust you're feeling 100% now, that the worst of your winter is over and that you and Chris are starting to think about that next safari.

[optig]

I was just in Laikipia and couldn't stress just how much I loved the scenery despite this already being my third there.

[AmyT]

Oh, @@dlo, I vividly remember my parasite while traveling by car from California to Wisconsin and back again, 18 years ago! I'd contracted Giardia somehow and tummy problems seem insignificant until they have you laid flat out. It took me several rounds of antibiotics to shake it, once I finally made it to the hospital (after I got home, which shows how stubborn I am too!)

 

Thank you for coming back to finish up your trip report... not a happy end of trip but so glad that you lived to tell the tale.

 

Your trip (minus the end) sounds brilliant. Can't wait to read where you and Jane are going next.

 

Amy

[Patty]

Sorry you were so sick at the end. It's horrible having to travel like that. Hope you recovered quickly when you got home.

 

A very enjoyable report, thank you!

[dlo]

Wow, not the way one wants a great trip like this to end. Very sorry about your health problems, I hope you got better at home quickly?

 

Well, on the bright side, it happened at the very end and you could enjoy most of your safari. Lots of great sigthings for you and Chris!

 

I really enjoyed your report, comparing our experiences, and I especially liked seeing Meru - I do have unfinished business with that park since my stay there was much too short.

 

So, any plans for the next one already?

 

Thanks Michael, I was better almost as soon as I got home the penicillin worked a treat.

 

So the next one you say, well I'm glad you asked! Unfortunately nothing this year and next year looks dry as well. I become old next year when I turn 50 in December so we will probably wait till January 2019 as the weather will be better. Now its just time to choose between Tanzania-Kilimanjaro again,Serengeti and green season Ruaha looks beautiful,or Uganda- Rwanda for chimps gorillas some amazing looking mountain biking and my own unfinished business in Nyungwe. You know Mana Pools is a big one for me and while I thought Namibia would be a one off I think I will return and do the south after these trips. I will do everything I can to combine South Luangwa again with Namibia and Mana Pools as I love that place like you love the Aberdares!

 

Last day is definitely the time to get sick! Some kind of parasite sounds nasty.

 

I like the camel shots - something different and nice. Not sure about the dead hedgehog - it'snot really selling the place to me. Live tortoise is better.

 

Enjoyed following you both around. Very entertaining, So... overall feeling? Now you're well again.

 

 

 

The camel mounting was clearly entertaining to all. All I can say is I am glad nobody took a picture of me while the camel was standing up.

 

So I've had a hard time answering your question but I would say overall it was a good trip. Getting sick happens so that's not a negative but my best trips have had some action between safari like my Namibia trip so I should know better than to not include some stuff like that. Our best trip was a 3 month one with a lot of safari time but we did so many different things that the trip flew by and we were both sad to be coming home. It's been 15 years since our first safari and I wonder where things will be in the next 15. What's the future for Laikipia and wildlife in general, human populations are only going to continue to grow out of control and that won't leave much space for anything else. Hopefully things will work out well for everything and I'm just suffering from winter blahs.

 

I agree with @@pault - "Live tortoise is better" - but dead in some ways is better than none!

 

Seriously though that landscape in Laikipia looks wide,wild,and wonderful and brings back that yearning for Africa.

 

The photo in #135 of the moran guide/tracker shows how close the elephants were - it must have been a vey special and memorable walk for Chris.

 

So sorry about your illness at the end - but very comforting to know that you got such good treatment.

 

Thank you @@dlo for such an informative and entertaining report.

 

Trust you're feeling 100% now, that the worst of your winter is over and that you and Chris are starting to think about that next safari.

 

Ha! winter is never over here. We've had rain,-25,rain tomorrow and snow coming friday, It's supposed to be warm enough for shorts and bbq sunday! I really appreciate @@michael-ibk @@pault and yourself following along as you guys have all had some great trip reports lately and it's nice to give a little something back. And I'll say it again I very much enjoyed going back to 1973 with you and hopefully we get another trip report from you soon.

[dlo]

Oh, @@dlo, I vividly remember my parasite while traveling by car from California to Wisconsin and back again, 18 years ago! I'd contracted Giardia somehow and tummy problems seem insignificant until they have you laid flat out. It took me several rounds of antibiotics to shake it, once I finally made it to the hospital (after I got home, which shows how stubborn I am too!)

 

Thank you for coming back to finish up your trip report... not a happy end of trip but so glad that you lived to tell the tale.

 

Your trip (minus the end) sounds brilliant. Can't wait to read where you and Jane are going next.

 

Amy

 

Well @@AmyT we have some good trips planned but I think Chris would be quite upset with me if I went on safari with Jane

[AmyT]

OOOOOOPPPPS! My apologies, Chris!