Kruger 2016: new park, new birds, new friends

[xelas]

@@xelas great tr and I love the lion pictures!

 

 

Thank you, @@Ladouce ! While the lion sighting was top, there were others also very interesting ones, soon to be posted.

[xelas]

Fabulous lion sighting and wonderful photos, @@xelas! The images of the birds, the elephant, the female and male impalas and the two male buffalo are very nice, as well. I already feel like going to KNP...

 

The Kruger NP is way different to the other two parks we have been to, and to what been told by @@wildlifepainter also northern part id different to central part, and south is again another story. At least two more reasons for us to make a return trip. And three reasons for you, @@FlyTraveler !

[xelas]

 As for the quality of the photos, we are happy with them that is already a success story!

[xelas]

Punda Maria Rest Camp / 25. – 26. 10. 2016 (continued)

 

 

The Swamp Pride slowly retired themselves to the shades of the rocks and trees, and we moved back to the other side of Klopperfontein, where more action took place.

 

Small birds seek safety in numbers

 

 

Zebra is, IMO, the single most photogenic ungulate. The skin pattern, the "smiling" face, the attitude, never still for more than a few minutes, they are perfect models for any wildlife photographer

 

Relaxed and calm ...

 

 

... but not for long!

 

 

What are those zebras up to?!

 

Only having fun, what else?!

 

Ahhh, those youngsters! (A Tsetssebe, next lifer Kruger showed to us )

[xelas]

Only 1/3 of the drive was done, and we have had so much fun already. But our target for the day, Pafuri was still ahead so off we went. Driving on tar roads is easy but keeping the car within the speed limit is hard. Next time I will ask if the car has a cruise control. That is definitively the most useable car option in Kruger, beside the A/C.

 

A majestic Nyala somewhere along the road to Pafuri

 

Pafuri Camp and Pafuri Picnic Site are both located along the Luvuvhu River. Not much of water inside but still enough for the vegetation to be green; a stark contrast to what we had seen not more than 2 kilometers away from it. We crossed the bridge over the river, but crossed it back again quickly, to drive to the welcome deep shade of the picnic site. There we met the Cape Town birders again. They were looking for the Pel's Fishing Owl. Again without any luck. The picnic site manager is Frank Madasa, also known as a great birder. Recommended by Samson I approached him and arranged a half day birding for our next day. The rest of the midday we spent braaing and eating and drinking and just enjoying the deep shade of the site. Camera was always close by to take a photo or two.

 

 

Luvuvhu River ... reduced to a stream

 

Pafuri Picnic Site with braai area ... do you notice the cook??

 

Not? But you surely notice this !!

 

 

Down by the river large mammals were coming and going the whole time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

It is 60 km between Pafuri Picnic Site and Punda Maria Rest Camp, and as I have learned the lesson yesterday, we left Pafuri at 15:00 and drove slowly back to the camp. Only a few stops as I was planning to visit the camp's waterhole. Not yet adapted completely to the driving speeds and distances, we have arrived too late for this one. But who would complain, after a day filled with such extraordinary sightings?! Again no more cooking for the dinner as we have had that juicy steak for lunch, more yogurt and fruits. And before going to bed (early) we have had to pack the car as next day we will have to leave the camp as soon as the gate opens, to be in Pafuri as early as possible (i.e. 1 hour after leaving Punda Maria with no stops).

 

 

Wait, stop, there is a Leopard ... Tortoise

 

Wait, stop, there is a ... cameloparadlis

 

Severe drought has taken its toll on the vegetation

 

Impala is even more striking in the afternoon light

 

 

[Chakra]

Excellent details and interesting twists as well. I'm eagerly waiting for your birds as I have heard Northern Kruger is fabulous for birds. The drought has really taken its toll on the vegetation. It's heartbreaking to see the plight of animals wading through mud looking for water.

[FlyTraveler]

What a lovely scenery around Luvuvhu River, @@xelas! Your photos have captured the beauty of the Pafuri area very well. Love the action zebra images (with the dust in their feet), the male Nyala portrait and the Elephant in / next to the river photos! I believe that things are never just a coincidence. Two months ago I watched an old NG documentary - "The Last Feast of the Crocodiles". I knew that it was shot somewhere in Northern Kruger and just noted the great scenery, so different from the usual tar roads images that I have seen from this park. Then I heard the name of the river - Luvuvhu and googled it. Found several videos, some photos and read about the Pafuri region, which made me start thinking about visiting Kruger proper (I've been to Timbavati and Sabi Sand). Then I learned that you've done Kruger this year and now comes your report with lovely photos from the same area...

[xelas]

Excellent details and interesting twists as well. I'm eagerly waiting for your birds as I have heard Northern Kruger is fabulous for birds. The drought has really taken its toll on the vegetation. It's heartbreaking to see the plight of animals wading through mud looking for water.

 

 

@@Chakra, birding was indeed splendid. But in this trip report I will only show a small selection, so you are kindly invited to chek them all here:

http://safaritalk.net/topic/16379-zvezda-alex-big-year-2016-first-attempt/page-26?

[xelas]

What a lovely scenery around Luvuvhu River, @@xelas! Your photos have captured the beauty of the Pafuri area very well. Love the action zebra images (with the dust in their feet), the male Nyala portrait and the Elephant in / next to the river photos! I believe that things are never just a coincidence. Two months ago I watched an old NG documentary - "The Last Feast of the Crocodiles". I knew that it was shot somewhere in Northern Kruger and just noted the great scenery, so different from the usual tar roads images that I have seen from this park. Then I heard the name of the river - Luvuvhu and googled it. Found several videos, some photos and read about the Pafuri region, which made me start thinking about visiting Kruger proper (I've been to Timbavati and Sabi Sand). Then I learned that you've done Kruger this year and now comes your report with lovely photos from the same area...

 

@@FlyTraveler , I am very honoured to be able to show you the beauty of that northern part of Kruger. Landscape is, let me be honest, less amazing than landscape I have witnessed in Etosha or Kgalagadi. But nature is always beautiful, and wildlife was abundant, and what to say about the amazing birding?! I am sure you will love northern Kruger.

Edited December 17, 2016 by xelas

[FlyTraveler]

 

 

 

@@FlyTraveler , I am very honoured to be able to show you the beauty of that northern part of Kruger. Landscape is, let me be honest, less amazing than landscape I have witnessed in Etosha or Kgalagadi. But nature is always beautiful, and wildlife was abundant, and what to say about the amazing birding?! I am sure you will love northern Kruger.

 

 

I really didn't feel like spamming your excellent TR, but since you mentioned Etosha NP, how do you compare Kruger and Etosha? Which one do you like better? I am aware of the fact that they are very different, the main similarity being that both parks are very popular with self-drivers.

Edited December 17, 2016 by FlyTraveler

[xelas]

Shingwedzi Rest Camp / 27. – 29. 10. 2016

 

 

Sunrise at Punda Maria

 

Today we were to move south, to Shingwedzi Rest Camp, where we were about to meet with Debbie and Jim. But first we had to drive up north to Pafuri for that birding tour that was booked the day before. Early wake up call, and out of the Punda Maria Rest Camp as soon as the gate opened. It was straight to Pafuri Picnic site where we arrived on time. Well, one cannot pass a nice photo opp when it appears!

 

Martial Eagle

 

Lonely Vervet Monkey

 

 

 

Frenk asked us what we would like to see. »Pel's fishing Owl!« was my immediate reply. Not that I was so interested in the owl, but seeing it and maybe taking a photo, I could send it to our Cape Town birder fellows. He was sceptical, but he did search around the house where the owl usually is spotted. And he found it! Hidden deep inside the canopy, I was able to get a not so good look at it. Zvezda had more trouble trying to find it using the long lens.

 

Me (looking through binociulars): ”It is there, in the big tree, two o'clock, do you see it?”

She (looking through small camera viewfinder): ”No. Where? Which tree? On the right??«

Me (excited as the owl started to move deeper into the shade):”Yes, yes, that tree! Take the shot, take the shot!!«

 

To set the scene, there was a small forest of trees in that general direction I was looking at.

No shot was taken. The owl disappeared into the thick shade of the tree.

 

Me (unhappy): ”What happened?! Why didn't you take the shot???«

She (almost apologising): ”I did not see any owl. Just a big rock on the branch.”

 

Hey, what, a big rock on the branch ??!! That was the owl !!! Isn't our bird photography motto: Take photos first ask questions later ?! Oh well, at least I have a story to tell .

 

 

We tried to find the owl again but without any success. So we entered the car and drove slowly towards Crooks Corner. At one point I have spotted a bird on my right, and while me and Zvezda were looking at the bird, Frenk whispered, as calmly as possible: ”Close your window, ma'am!” while he was fumbling to find the button to close his window. It dawned on me immediatelly; another Etosha leopard moment, for sure. Only that this time the big cat, too close to the car for even an experienced guide like Frenk would be comfortable with, was not a leopard but a lion. And yes, Zvezda again disobbeyed my directions to leave the window open and to take photos. Truth be told, I have half closed my window when the lion moved to my side of the car as well.

 

A Lion Too Close

 

The Lion with the Golden Mane

 

 

Rest of the birding was less exciting. We reached Crooks Corner, and there were no animals of interest to photograph, so we did a group photo with our guide (two men always make a group ).

 

 

The (African Fish) Eagle Has Landed

 

Guide and Guided

 

Verreaux's Eagle-Owl and the Philosopher's Tree

 

 

Guess Who's Coming To Dinner?

 

 

 

 

Cutthroat Bird (a White-fronted Bee-eater)

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

On the way back to Punda Maria and further to Shingwedzi (cca. 110 km = 3 hours) we had briefly crossed the bridge over Luvuvhu River again. You are allowed to exit the car while on the bridge, and below there were several elephants in the river. Then some of the elephants decided to check out what was on the menu on the other side of the road, so it became a temporary ellie's jam. They move on but another one approached the road, and when realising that the vegetation is always sweeter and greener by the road, or in this particular case, by the bridge, he occupied half of it. OK, great shots for Zvezda; at a certain moment I was kinda hoping that this ellie has read about his cousin in Mana Pools. He tried but more training will be needed before he will be able to stand on his rear legs. Eventually the ellie decided to move from the bridge, and we were allowed to start our journey towards Shingewedzi.

 

Refreshing Moments

 

Red Beast

 

This bridge is mine

 

Reaching high

 

Do I have enough??

 

Nope!

 

Finally, the traffic can move on

[FlyTraveler]

Beautiful sunrise at Punda Maria camp, great photos of the close Lion encounter and the Elephants in Luvuvhu River and on the bridge, @@xelas! Nice and sharp African fish eagles and White-fronted bee eater images!

Edited December 18, 2016 by FlyTraveler

[FlyTraveler]

Frenk asked us what we would like to see. »Pel's fishing Owl!« was my immediate reply. Not that I was so interested in the owl, but seeing it and maybe taking a photo, I could send it to our Cape Town birder fellows. He was sceptical, but he did search around the house where the owl usually is spotted. And he found it! Hidden deep inside the canopy, I was able to get a not so good look at it. Zvezda had more trouble trying to find it using the long lens.

 

Me (looking through binociulars): ”It is there, in the big tree, two o'clock, do you see it?”

She (looking through small camera viewfinder): ”No. Where? Which tree? On the right??«

Me (excited as the owl started to move deeper into the shade):”Yes, yes, that tree! Take the shot, take the shot!!«

 

To set the scene, there was a small forest of trees in that general direction I was looking at.

No shot was taken. The owl disappeared into the thick shade of the tree.

 

Me (unhappy): ”What happened?! Why didn't you take the shot???«

She (almost apologising): ”I did not see any owl. Just a big rock on the branch.”

 

Hey, what, a big rock on the branch ??!! That was the owl !!! Isn't our bird photography motto: Take photos first ask questions later ?! Oh well, at least I have a story to tell .

 

 

 

 

Here is a photo of a Pel's fishing owl, which I took inside Pelo Camp, Jao Concession in the heart of the Okavango Delta in May 2014:

 

 

You can copy it and send it to your Cape Town birder fellows and say that you took it in Pafuri. :)

Edited December 18, 2016 by FlyTraveler

[xelas]

Thank you, @@FlyTraveler ! It really looks like a rock . I don't think I could fool them, plus they are tickers not clickers .

[Towlersonsafari]

Hurrah @@xelas a Owls Fishing owl and a Bat Hawk on the same trip!

[xelas]

Hurrah @@xelas a Owls Fishing owl and a Bat Hawk on the same trip!

 

 

The Pel's Fishing Owl was only a ticker, maybe next time it will also be a clicker?!

[xelas]

Shingwedzi Rest Camp / 27. – 29. 10. 2016

 

 

As mentioned already, Debbie decided to book the cabin with the best view in each camp. In Shingwedzi that place was the Rentmeester House, proper mansion with private entrance, two wings connected by a huge living room, a covered porch and very private lookout toward the Shingwedzi River. One word: Beautiful!

 

Our mansion for next three nights

 

Huge bedroom ...

 

... living room with leader sofa and full-size diner table ...

 

... and one outside ...

 

... excellently equipped kitchen ...

 

 

... which was not used much because of this ...

 

... and the place where we have had our sundowners!

 

 

And it comes with its own majordomo

 

Southern Red-billed Hornbill

[xelas]

The camp is among the medium-size ones, and has a well equipped store, a gas station and a pool. It is just a short 2 km away from the main Kruger road H1-6. Game drives can be done either turning right towards Punda Maria or turning left towards Mopani. There is also third option, following Shingwedzi River along Kannieedood Dam.

This third option is what we have done on our first afternoon game drive. There is a hide along the way, and the dam should be a great site ... if not for the severe lack of water. Instead of hippos we have found this herd of buffalos coming to quench their thirst.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

A side note: Zvezda expressed some concerns regarding my photo selection, specially about lacking of birds. So I will add them more in the future. Here are three big ones, and a couple that entertained us in front of the mansion.

 

 

Saddle-billed Stork

Marabou Stork ... even I look pretty in comparison to this one

Yellow-billed Stork

This Greater Blue-eared Starling couple was caught in the middle of a domestic dispute

Edited December 18, 2016 by xelas

[janzin]

Thanks for adding more birds This is definitely making me want to return to Kruger, and visit the northern section.

[Treepol]

@@xelas thanks for this detailed report from Northern Kruger, interesting because I don't hear so much of this part of KNP.

[xelas]

@@xelas thanks for this detailed report from Northern Kruger, interesting because I don't hear so much of this part of KNP.

 

Thank you for reading it! It is a great part of Kruger; I do realise that wildlife is more prolific on the southern part, but we have enjoyed the north very much. Lack of tourist crowds only added to the wow feeling.

[xelas]

Shingwedzi Rest Camp / 27. – 29. 10. 2016 (continued)

 

This morning we were up and out really early. Well, early because the evening before (or it was already the night) we have stayed up for a long long time, having sundowners, making braai, and the first of dinners with Debbie and Jim was filled with sparkling conversations and cold drinks!

Outside the sun was up and the cousin of our majordomo was already on duty (whichever his duty was). More birds in splendid morning light awaited for us.

The game drive was towards Bateleur Bushveld Camp. The dirt road follows the paved one, just on the other bank of the (dry) Shingwedzi riverbed. This road is quite narrow, and mammals tend to come close to it. Time for some portraiture lessons.

Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill

White-browed Robin-Chat

Cinnamon (aka Broad-billed) Roller

Yellow-billed Oxpecker

Look Who's Looking

The Nyala Whisperer feat. Robird Redbill