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Beautiful South Luangwa - a safari of elephants

Zambia South Lungwa

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#21 martywilddog

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Posted 05 November 2016 - 11:46 AM

We also did a few days in the South @optig, at island bush camp. I am generally all in favour of a combo trip! See different parts! 

 

You will have a great time @philw! Great choice of camps, you will get to see some different area's! I'm very jealous that you get to go to Lower Zambezi too! But, ok, this way we have an excuse to go back to Zambia ;-) 


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#22 Caracal

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 02:47 AM

Thoroughly enjoying this TR @martywildog and totally agree with your comments on Zambia and its people.

 

It's quite some years now since my last visit to SLNP and am appreciating returning to the Nsefu sector through your eyes and photos.

 

Love the photos of the elephants in the Luangwa, the dogs of course with their varied patterns and that was a pretty impressive buffalo herd.

 

Looking forward to more. 


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#23 Hads

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 01:59 PM

Great trip report @martywilddog - SLNP was my first ever safari destination as a grubbie backpacker back in 1999 and to this day probably my favourite safari place not because of the sightings but mainly the scenery and the massive sauasage trees.

Love the TR so far and well done on the Wild dog sightings, great buffalo pics too!



#24 janzin

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 03:04 PM

Enjoying your report--fantastic that you saw the dogs! We had a similar experience--and thrill--seeing them in Botswana, and I really hope we get to see them in Zambia! We'll also be in South Luangwa (and Lower Zambezi) in September 2017 (maybe we'll run into @philw !)so I'm following with great interest. Really happy you speak so highly of the Nsefu area; we'll be at Tena Tena for four nights (and also at at camp in the south, Bilimungwe, for three nights.) We also wanted to experience the two different sectors, at least on our first trip :)


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#25 deano

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Posted 06 November 2016 - 04:44 PM

@martywilddog - I have been away from the forum for so long that it took me three tries before I remembered my password! 

 

Glad to be back on Safaritalk though and reading a trip report about one of my favourite places. Really pleased when somebody else like it as well and it is clear that you do. Wild dogs on first drive is always going to influence thoughts on a particular place and from what I have read so far you have fallen in love with Zambia and that is wonderful. Really liked the second dog image and all the elephants in the river. A fantastic place and you captured that in those images.

 

I seem to remember that you took a GoPro along? For videos I use Vimeo and upload at 720p rather than 1080p - it keeps the file size down. To post these in your trip report just click on the "share" icon (paper airplane) and then copy the "link" and just paste it into your trip report. If you "preview" your post it generally shows up as just the address for the link but when you post it will include the video. I am not familiar with Youtube but I'm sure it works the same.

 

Looking forward to more.

 

Kind regards

 

deano.



#26 twaffle

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 11:23 AM

The wild dogs have particularly pretty markings which you've captured well. The Nsefu location certainly did deliver for you.

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#27 Towlersonsafari

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 12:42 PM

very much enjoying your enthusiasm as well as your pictures- @martywilddog we have looked at Jackelberry camp-do I get the impression this camp was not so much fun?-looking forward to the rest of your report-SNLP is I think our favourite destination as well!



#28 martywilddog

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 08:38 PM

Thanks all for the very nice comments! It's always nice to hear someone is reading this :) 

 

@deano, after reading your trip reports on Zambia for so long, I'm happy to hear you are following along! Indeed we took the go pro, but sadly not up to your video nor editing skills :) I am trying out your vimeo tip! It did not give me an upload choice though, and it seems to be taking for ever. But if it works I will make sure to post the video's too! 

 

@janzin, I saw your trip planning request. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you'd like! As far as locations go, I think you will love tena tena - I can't judge on the camp obviously, but to be honest I can't imagine to be anything but great! 

 

I will try to move this report a long as soon as I can! 



#29 martywilddog

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 09:16 PM

Let's give this a try ;-) 

 


Edited by martywilddog, 07 November 2016 - 09:17 PM.

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#30 martywilddog

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Posted 07 November 2016 - 09:18 PM

So it seems to work, but might I recommend you turn your volume down so as to avoid the road/wind noise and our mindless chatter :) 


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#31 pault

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 05:12 AM

Yes, video is good. I have sound turned off so no chatter - mindless or mindful. 


Waiting again... for the next time again


#32 deano

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Posted 10 November 2016 - 04:09 AM

@martywilddog - great job with the video and thank you for watching all of mine (and your editing skills are just fine and at least as "good" as mine are). I recognized instantly the Mfuwe road and particularly enjoyed that segment along with the angry elephant. Looking forward to more (please).

 

kind regards

 

deano.



#33 martywilddog

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 09:08 AM

Thanks for all the kind comments everyone! 

 

So our time at Nsefu sector had come to an end (and what an end it was!), and we were beyond sad to leave. But our trip continued! 

 

Next up was Nkonzi camp. 

 

What I also much appreciated in SLNP is that camps don't charge you for a transfer from camp to camp (or to the airport). It's perhaps a small thing, but when you're planning and budgeting a safari, getting something included "for free" is really great!  :)

 

The transfer here didn't really go off without a glitch though. Due to a change in plans/miscommunication (I don't know on whose end), Gavin wasn't really ready yet to take us to camp after Zikomo dropped us off at the meeting spot. He still needed to do some shopping to stock up camp and go by his office. But he then offered to take us to one of the other camps for a lunch on his expense. Works for us! I had done a lot of research for this trip and Croc Valley is a name anyone planning a safari on a budget will know. So I was curious to see it.

 

It's a really laid back place. The best spots are reserved for the campers, they get the river views. The tents and cottages are set further back. 

 

It is about the only place left in the valley we were told where you can walk into the bar/restaurant as a non guest and have a drink or some food. The service matched the laid back vibe of the place  -_- The food was good though and the mosi's cold! All the guests seemed also very happy and relaxed. It's just that kind of place. Words like "take it easy" come to mind. The guests were also a different demographic than I had expected! I had expected young backpackers, but we saw more two generation families and mature couples. 

 

After lunch we took a dip in the pool (strange sloped pool, hard to get in and out off, forget getting in and out with any kind of elegance) and relaxed a bit in their hammocks (though the monkey that kept staring at me while he was playing with something he'd stolen kept me too vigilant to really sleep :)

 

What struck me when I walked around the grounds is that camps here were very close together. Before I knew it I was already trespassing on a neighbouring property (the lady who manages it was very nice though). 

 

I didn't get to look at any of the tents or cottages (the place is mainly very popular with campers), but we did use the facilities and it must have been one of the cleanest and pretty toilets I have ever seen! That always says something about a place I find. 

 

So this place in the end was what I had thought flat dogs would be like, this laid back backpackers type place (and apparently FD used to be more like this - more on FD later which we also visited by chance!). 


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#34 martywilddog

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 09:27 AM

But before we knew it Gavin was back and we were on our way to Nkonzi. 

 

We had been warned that there were a lot of tsetse's on the way into camp by previous guests we had just met at Zikomo. So I took out our RID, Avon skin so soft and Dettol to start nuking them! However, it wasn't all that bad. We did see them, but no one got bitten. (apparently - or so we were told by some guides - Robin Pope used to have a camp on the same location but it didn't work due to too many tsetse flies).

 

Camp is rustic and basic. But it is exactly as presented and we were kind of excited to sleep in a tent on safari! (but like a big tent where you can stand up in!). And it would also be our first bucket shower experience - another thing I was excited about (yes, non safari people didn't get this excitement  :rolleyes: ). I never did manage to wash my hair under this one (not enough water/pressure to really rinse and repeat) but nothing beats an open air shower in the middle of the bush and under the starts!

 

Here are some pictures of the camp 

 

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Upon our arrival, the other guests were already there. Two other couples: John and Carol from Edinburgh and Jose and François from France. And may I just say these were the nicest people we have ever met on safari! Honestly. Though we were all from different age brackets we just all magically connected so well and we loved hanging out with these guys! Sometimes, your camp or vehicle mates can make or break a place and here, our new found friends definitely made it! 

 

The first afternoon activity was not a great success for us. Just a two hour bush walk. And I just don't really find a walk necessarily a good fit for an afternoon activity. It really is still quite warm when you leave at 4. I had high hopes for the walking safari's in Zambia (we didn't really love the poop walks in SA), but it wasn't really meant to be. It was again a single file poop walk and in a not so great area: lots of bushes, dredging through loose sand. We also hadn't brought enough water and that was just dumb of us! So this was the one time where I was ever happy on safari I think to get back to camp (and to run for a bottle of water). I had also sort of expected that after this walk we would still do a night drive (from what I had read of other trip reports), but nope. 

 

However, dinner was very nice and we really got to know our new camp mates! 

 

 

 

 

 


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#35 martywilddog

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 09:52 AM

The next day we had an all day drive. I was really very excited about this! We were going to drive all the way up to the Lion camp area, with a picnic somewhere in between in the most idyllic spot you could imagine! 

 

I'll just let some of the pictures speak: 

 

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We also again had an amazing Elephant sighting, where we watched a whole herd cross through a muddy greenish swampy looking pond. They were just having so much fun! They walk up to the water in an organised fashion, but then when they get very close, all caution and elegance goes out the door and they just trumpet and run (this really really was a safari of Elephants!). Such childlike enthusiasm was really food for the soul. We watched them for quite a while (I can never get enough of elephants) 

 

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We were getting a bit frustrated though at this point that we still hadn't seen any predators. I know it's not only about predators, but since we were in Hollywood pride territory, we were kind of hoping for some lions :) But we just kept driving around and around and not finding any. 

 

Until a friendly guide from Lion Camp told us where to go. Lions! 

 

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They were following these guys around:

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But since we were really very far from camp and it was already a bit late, this sighting was really cut short. 

 

We did stop for sundowners and though I would have preferred to stay longer with the lions, after this warm day out I was ready for a cold mosi and Tom for a nice G&T on the rocks! However, there was nothing refreshing or cold. It was a choice between lukewarm red table wine or water that was only slightly colder than the air temperature. Hmmm, now the lions would have definitely been my pick. 

 

Unfortunately the drive really ended on a low point with "the leopard incident". I won't go into details, but suffice it to say, there was a leopard but we didn't get to see it (we had been on safari for 5 days at this point and this was the first leopard). 

 

The dinner that night was something really special though! There was a braai set up in the dry river bed in front of the camp. And my god that was the best BBQ I have ever had in my life! The meat was just soooooo good! 

 

And then it was off to bed! 

 

 

 

 

 


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#36 martywilddog

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 10:22 AM

The next day was sad, in that our friends would be leaving after the morning activity. By chance, both couples were going to Flat Dogs next. 

 

The activity was a bush breakfast. So we started out a tiny bit later and had an extensive breakfast in the bush (eggs and bacon and all). But again I was taken a bit aback that that was it. No added drive, no added walk. We just drove to the breakfast spot, ate and drove back. Hu. The bush breakfast had appealed to me greatly in theory, but in practice it was a bit short. And we were already back at camp at 9.30. Again, hu. 

 

Gavin was driving our friends to FD and going shopping again and we were told to just relax around camp. But there really isn't anything to do around camp. There is no resident wild life, you can't nap in the tents because they really do get too hot during the day, you can't really edit pictures because your in a bush camp and so the charging station is not really set up for this, and we would be all alone, no more friends. Hu. 

 

So we asked if we could come along to Flat Dogs. It would give us a drive to it and back and we could hang out with our friends some more. This appealed to us more than just sitting around by ourselves. And Gavin is nothing if not very friendly so he said of course. So off we were to Flat Dogs! Gavin wasn't sure whether we'd be allowed to hang out on the grounds as outside guests. FD apparently used to be a bit like Croc Valley, where people working around the valley would meet up for a drink and hang out. But FD had changed quite a bit over the years and Gavin said they didn't encourage this anymore. But the manager was super friendly about it and it was no problem at all (we were there as friends of staying guests after all)! 

 

What I remember like it was yesterday is that we sat down at the bar area while our friends were checking in and this pitcher of ice water appeared in front of us  - just like that. Ice water! Ice cold water! Now the heat was definitely bearable, but it was warm and we hadn't had a cold drink in 2 full days! We were so happy for this pitcher of icy cold water  :wub:

 

While we were sitting there, we were struck that the valley is also a small world after all. Because at the table next to us we could hear a lady from kafunta who was having lunch at FD call Gavin at just that moment to discuss the pick up for "the Martywilddg"-party for the next day :) She of course had no idea that was us. 

 

We were then offered a tour, to have a look at Jose and François' tent. They had picked the standard tent but with river view. This is not a tent! Beautiful. 

 

FD was turning out to be not at all what I had thought it would be. It was "way more up there" in terms of standard and luxury! It was also rather family friendly with kids splashing around in the pool. 

 

We then go to accompany Carol and John as they were shown their luxury tent. Wow! What a gigantic room/tent! Really well done. 

 

FD is what I had expected Kafunta to be like at this point. Since FD is what every agent suggests when you mention you are on a budget, I had really expected something else. I would have loved to stay at FD! The only downside I could see was that it is rather big. Lots of people, lots of rooms. But the way it is done is very good, you don't feel it. You don't see other tents or rooms and it feels very spacious. There is just a lot of space. And it's pretty, really pretty! 

 

They also got regular other visitors 

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Elephants in camp! I got all excited - happens all the time though apparently :)

 

So we hung out for a while longer, but around 2 we had to say goodbye to the others. It might seem silly after only two days of knowing these people, but I was honestly sad that we didn't get to stay with them! 

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We were then picked up again by Nkonzi camp and together with the new guests (a nice young couple from England) we were back off to camp, for lunch and then for a drive!

 

We were really happy we were flexible to spend the day this way! It was a very social day and I always like to see other camps as well - especially a place I had heard so much about! And that turned out to really exceed my expectations in terms of facilities! (can't judge about the quality of the drives of course). 

 

 

 

 


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#37 Rein Kuresoo

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 10:34 AM

@martywilddog  We also spent four nights recently in Nkonzi. I set up a trail camera in the Mushilashi riverbed, and although it looked dry and lifeless, a lot of things happened there.

 

 


Edited by Rein Kuresoo, 11 November 2016 - 10:58 AM.


#38 martywilddog

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 11:09 AM

After lunch, we were off on another evening/night drive. We decided to go in the direction of the main gate area. 

 

And finally we got to see our first leopard! For a park so famed for it's leopard population, they sure took their time to reveal themselves to us ;-) 

 

The pictures really strain the capability of my camera, we were really far away from the leopard so they are rather grainy, but there it was! Our first leopard. 

 

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What was beyond cool was what happened next. We were again looking on from a far (nicely staying on the road) and couldn't see as much as the other cars around. But the leopard apparently had enough of just lying around and started to move. Directly towards us! It crossed the road right in front of our vehicle! It was so close, I could touch it, but not take a picture :) I was in awe! Such a beautiful and graceful creature. The moment only lasted about 5 seconds, but it was amazing. 

 

We also saw a few other usual suspects of course

 

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I don't know what was the matter with my camera on this drive though. Even more so than at other times all the pictures were rather grainy and out of focus. Don't know what happened there, so sorry guys. But you get the idea :) 

 


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#39 martywilddog

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 11:13 AM

Oh wow, you were definitely more lucky with the general game around camp @Rein Kuresoo! We never saw any elephants near camp, let alone so close. But it's always like that on safari, is it not. Sometimes it's just a matter of luck (or no luck) :) 


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#40 martywilddog

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Posted 11 November 2016 - 11:28 AM

What I forgot to mention in my last post was the pretty exciting sundowners sighting we had on that night drive! (Some things are becoming hard to remember when I didn't have the chance to take a picture of it - I always start out like a good student with my diary, but as we get into the safari I always start to slack :) )

 

So we were quietly standing there, next to the car, having a drink, when a big lone elephant bull just sort of walked in on us! He was a big fella! And for some reason he really wanted to come and say hello. We didn't really get it why he was always coming closer instead of running away from us, he clearly knew we were there! I had left my camera in the car (dumb, dumb, dumb) and was rooted to the ground, didn't dare to go get it. Since he just kept coming, Gavin decided we just probably get back into the car. So in an orderly fashion, but with a racing heart, we sat back down. And he kept coming. At this point he was just in front of the car and our entire set up for sundowners was still on the hood, so we were thinking he was maybe interested in our popcorn? But no, he sniffed them and walked on, right next to our car. And right up to the fig tree (or that flower tree the animals love so much - now I forget, note to self, keep notes!) a couple of meters behind us, but so close! Really a matter of meters. And he wrapped it's trunk around it and gave it a good shake! And then he started munching :)

 

So it was deemed safe for us to alight again from the car and we watched the elephant eat while we chatted. We were just in his path to the yummy flowers. A very exciting moment that lasted quite long! 

 

 

So that left us with one last drive at Nkonzi the next morning, before moving to our last camp, Kafunta. 

 

It was a bit of a quiet morning, but we did get to add a new species: Hartebeest. The lone animal was a bit skittish, so my pictures are again not so great, but we did get to admire him for quite some time. 

 

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Our new vehicle mate also had eyes like a hawk and spotted some lions on the other side of the river bed from where we were driving. They were so hard to spot, it still took me 10min to find them with my own eyes, even though I knew where they were. Dry beige river bed and beige lions makes for good camouflage. I remember the sighting well (feeling like a blind bat), but they were just too far for a picture. 


Edited by martywilddog, 11 November 2016 - 12:17 PM.

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