Trip report Laikipia and Masai Mara in September

[mapumbo]

Nice shots. You had great sightings of the dogs. Did Steve talk about the hyena with the pack. Is this unusual?

[linjudy]

@@mapumbo, Steve said it is very common for hyenas to follow the dogs, but to intermingle like this is unusual. In fact there were 3 hyenas, and 2 stayed the distance, only this one thought he was a dog. Steve said he's never seen anything like it and thought it was very funny.

 

Google photo seems to be fixed, so here is part 2, which is 3 days at Kicheche Bush Camp in the Olare Orok conservancy, one of which was a full day into the reserve. We knew we wanted to stay in a conservancy, and spent a lot of time trying to decide which one. After a ton of questions I really wanted Olare Orok for the following reasons:

 

- Few camps, few tourists

- Relative proximity to the reserve and river (seeing a crossing was our single biggest wish on this trip)

- Big cat action

 

We chose Kicheche because of their guiding reputation, and after LWC, which was wonderful but a bit rustic, we wanted something a little luxury. Both the camp and the conservancy more than delivered. In fact our last afternoon game drive there was SO action packed, we were actually embarrassed to talk about it to the new guests who arrived that day, a first while on safari. I really feel the only experience that rivaled Kicheche/Olare Orok was Mombo Camp/Chief's Island. Can't wait to go back.

 

Here's the link. Fingers crossed that it works!

 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN2FeR8uK7kG_DqKdKcIu7QfxSeIjDnkoPAfdTcNTVkHKpKm55yrBKbWrVOuT_oqg?key=WkprRnpOQVlsaW1EOG9zN2lUNzlJalc3Vi1YWHlR

Edited September 25, 2016 by linjudy

[pault]

Very efficient three nights at Kicheche Bush Camp. All boxes ticked. I wondered about the lighting in the lion kill shot and you say it was a spotlight? Do they take out spotllights or it was the car headlights? I've never known of any spotlighting at that camp, but it would kind of make sense since it's nearly always completely dark by the time we get abck to camp anyway.

 

Mombo? Don't tell the owners or they'll put the prices up again.

 

And Rekero still to come!!

[linjudy]

@@pault, I can't recall exactly about the light. It seemed that the truck didn't have regular headlights, but we were driving with a portable light that was mounted high (eg., front roof), and had to be plugged in. Does that seem right? For a second after the wildebeests started running, Charles stopped the car and turned off the light as he didn't want to interfere. He turned the light back on after the lion got the wildebeest.

 

Efficient and "boxed ticked" are not words I usually use about vacation, but I guess that does describe it. Exceptionally well run camp / conservancy.

Edited September 26, 2016 by linjudy

[offshorebirder]

Another excellent installment - thanks for sharing @@linjudy!

[pault]

@@pault, I can't recall exactly about the light. It seemed that the truck didn't have regular headlights, but we were driving with a portable light that was mounted high (eg., front roof), and had to be plugged in. Does that seem right? For a second after the wildebeests started running, Charles stopped the car and turned off the light as he didn't want to interfere. He turned the light back on after the lion got the wildebeest.

 

Efficient and "boxed ticked" are not words I usually use about vacation, but I guess that does describe it. Exceptionally well run camp / conservancy.

 

Haha True about he wording! Not my best I'm afraid, although "efficient" wouldn't have been bad with a better second choice Sounds like a spotlight for sure, then. Interesting and thanks for the response.

[linjudy]

Ok, back with the final installment, starting first with some photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[linjudy]

A little bit about our Rekero experience. Unlike our other camps, we only stayed 2 nights. Our primary wish was to see the river crossing, and in retrospect, this camp was not a good choice for this despite its location near the river. There are 2 reasons I say that. First, Rekero is shared vehicles by default. And unless your jeep mates are as keen to see the crossing as you are, it's hard to have consensus to spend so many hours waiting around. Our jeep mates were on safari for the first time, and understandably, wanted to drive around and see animals (I would have been the same). Second, for some inexplicable reason, Rekero uses close sided vehicles with a metal pop top that's hard to take on/off. So, while we were waiting around, our choice was to either sit in the hot sun, or drive away put the top on (which means no photos). It was also a bit larger (9 tents), and after LWC and Kicheche Bush, felt less convivial and more impersonal.

 

That said, we continued to have very action-packed game drives, and saw our 3rd and 4th kill, by the same lioness within an hour. Here's the photo diary:

 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPeEKCwankrbgwNxbOcqabMiVfBf5BS-s9UITs0Qi2dPgf8rxWg1POoKFVrn6kemA?key=VWZwZ3hVb1RoNW9tWjg4NXVNQnppLUxJOTF0RmV3

 

[pault]

You were a little unlucky with crossings at Rekero, but two (one tame, but still a crossing!) is quite a lot for two nights. And you had some really nice sightings there too - in fact throughout the trip - no way you were in any way unlucky, really - not overall. That day waiting for something to happen and nothing did is just the normal catching up with you I think.

 

Really nice report. Thank you.

 

By the way, I am not fond of those vehicles either but thought they were very comfortable, and truth is if you really like the Kicheche vehicles like me (and many seem to prefer an even more open design) there is little to match them.

Edited October 2, 2016 by pault

[linjudy]

@@pault, you're totally right. The whole trip was incredible, and I feel bad even mildly complaining about the crossings, esp since we did see two. It's just that we seemed to miss a big one just by a little (eg., an hour or a day). But of course, that's nature for you. Something to look forward to next time!

 

On the vehicle though, I wouldn't compromise next time. We had the same sort of vehicle in Tanzania, but we did a lot of road driving. Plus that vehicle had a tarp covering that was easy to take on/off. Rekero needs to get that kind if they want to use enclosed vehicle. Next time I would make sure to ask about vehicle before choosing camps. Also think we would get our own guide/vehicle so we can focus on seeing the crossing. Maybe try Serian next time.

 

Has anyone been to both Serian Nkorombo and Rekero, and can compare/contrast?

Edited October 2, 2016 by linjudy

[pault]

Me sort of... Although I only had a day tent at Rekero (another story) and two nights at Nkorombo. Nkorombo is a satellite camp (a Russian billionaire's idea of a fly camp perhaps) and Relero is a full camp. Most differences stem from that and so straight comparison isn't really fair. However, those differences are not huge. Advantages are of the "even more...." variety. I can;t think of any clear weaknesses for either. I suppose if Rekero was as close to nature as someone wanted to get, Nkorombo would be a step too far. You won;t run into Donald Trump there (not that he;s been to Rekero as far as I know).

The area around Rekero is even more reliable for big cats than the area around Nkorombo but you'll see plenty at both. On the flip side the area around Rekero has more vehicle traffic. But that's just your starting point in both cases.

Someone else hopefully has more time at Rekero than me to compare better.Also, I am talking Rekero 2009 vs Nkorombo 2015, so it may not be exactly the same Rekero.

Edited October 3, 2016 by pault

[Zim Girl]

Hi @@linjudy

 

We stayed at Rekero for 3 nts mid-September and had an open vehicle (we requested one when we booked). We also booked a private vehicle so we were able to do what we wanted while we were out in the Mara. We had Onesmus who is a great guide. We were very happy with him and would certainly recommend him.

[linjudy]

Zim Girl, we also had Onesmus, and I agree he was awesome. Good thing to know you can request an open vehicle. Booking a private vehicle was another $350 per day, which seemed really expensive. We didn't think about doing that as we've had shared jeep many times, and never had any issues. In fact, we've met great people and made friends. That said, I think all the crossing madness is NOT normal safari.

 

@@pault, how was the guiding and vehicle at Nkorombo? I also read that it's run by Maasai, and not the usual imported South African couple? That would be a plus for us.

Edited October 3, 2016 by linjudy

[pault]

@@linjudy Not really. Serian is run by Kenyans, but most management are those with British ancestry. But the management and staff move around the camps and there may be days when Nkorombo is being run by a white Kenyan or a foreigner who is a management helper, or a Maasai, depending on various things. Serian is quite laid back. You can read my 2015 trip report to answer the other questions... or I can tell you. The guiding was very good and as for the vehicles if you wish you can look at a picture menu and pick the style you want (ask your agent to ask for it - it is not an unusual request) as hey have a number in different styles. All open sided but not the same. As Zim Girl shows though, when you really know what you want at these places and ask,often you get it.

[Super LEEDS]

Thanks for sharing, glad my advice on posting Google pics really helped!!

Edited October 4, 2016 by Super LEEDS

[linjudy]

Hi folks, I'm starting a series of paintings inspired by the trip, first ones will feature birds. Can anyone tell me the name of these birds and lizard? Thanks!

 

 

 

[pault]

Nobody named them? That's a bit pathetic. Will do so for you.

[pault]

Oh... so little time today! @@linjudy

 

White-backed Vulture

 

Mwanza Flat-headed Rock Agama (actually I don't know hte difference between this and the Red-headed Rock Agama to be honest but if in the Mara I guess it is the Mwanza Flat-headed one)

 

Grey Heron and Yellow-billed Stork

Edited November 2, 2016 by pault

[optig]

I just love yellow-billed storks,and grey herons. I've seen so many of them in South Luangwa National Park,and elsewhere.

[linjudy]

Thanks so much!