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Kgalagadi and Londolozi: The Living Desert and Desserts to Die For


Safaridude

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Safaridude

Day 6

 

 

We are headed to Nossob Camp. The drive first takes us down the upper reaches of the Auob, and then we must take the main dune road to cut across to the Nossob side. We only have one night at the old but homey camp. We spend the afternoon driving around Marie se draai.

 

 

7:14am – Gemsbok in glorious morning light.

 

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8:07am – Another African wildcat.

 

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8:38am – Near Kamqua, a female leopard sits by the roadside.

 

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8:44am – The leopard is not in any sort of stealth mode, and she begins to move.

 

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8:48am – A herd of springboks detects the leopard and begins to alarm-call and move closer.

 

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8:50am – The herd gets spooked and flees.

 

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8:51am – As she walks near the vehicle, it is apparent that she is small and not in great condition.

 

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9:01am – A bull wildebeest in fine condition.

 

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9:38am – A secretary bird building a nest.

 

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9:51am – We enter the dune veld via the main dune road connecting the Auob and the Nossob. Wild flowers abound.

 

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11:16am – The dunes are relatively empty now, save for a few gemsboks and steenboks. When the riverbeds dry out in a few weeks, more game will move into the dunes in search for food.

 

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12:50pm – Near Dikbaardskolk, two cheetah males casually approach a herd of gemsboks and red hartebeests.

 

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12:53pm – The gemsboks retreat in panic.

 

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12:56pm – The gemsboks gather themselves and begin to keep an eye on the cheetahs, alarm-calling and following them.

 

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4:27pm – A Kalahari scrub robin. This is not an uncommon bird but a difficult bird to photograph because it does not sit still for long.

 

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4:59pm – A red hartebeest bull grazing at Marie se draai. Though red hartebeests are found all over the park, the upper Nossob is where they achieve the highest density.

 

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5:09pm – A southern pale chanting goshawk seems to be mesmerized by a couple of things: a Cape cobra up in the tree raiding a sociable weaver’s nest; and something else we are unable to make out in the fork of a branch of the same tree.

 

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5:20pm – The said Cape cobra.

 

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6:06pm – A camelthorn in a precarious state.

 

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6:22pm – A grey heron at sunset.

 

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6:57pm – Potjiekos for dinner.

 

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8:36pm – It is quiet at the Nossob Camp waterhole. However, the dead camelthorn lit up by the floodlight makes for interesting photo opportunities.

 

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Atravelynn

Wonderful wild cat encounters. Even one with a kill. "If you are keen on seeing the “small stuff” and learning about how everything fits together in nature, Kgalagadi is the place." The wild cats were the perfect example. So was the lovely sequence of southern pale chanting goshawk and cape cobra raiding the social be weaver's nest.

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for those who are interested: the four cheetah brothers were named after the museketeers and their friend, D'Artagnan

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@@Safaridude The leopard is probably the one called Masego, she has a heart shaped marking near her eye. She has been struggling these past weeks having been left by her mother to fend for herself a bit too early in life.

 

Please send your photographs to Mathew Surch at the Kgalagadi Leopard Project Kgalagadi Leopard Project as they are monitoring her and all the leopards in the park.

 

I have been to KTP three times now and have still only seen the ears of a leopard from a long way off. Hope for better luck in September You were lucky. Pen

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Safaridude

@@ice

 

@penlova

 

Thank you for the information. And yes, we were incredibly lucky with the leopard sightings.

 

Now, does anyone know the name of the goshawk? :P

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The goshawk photos were standouts for me. I really enjoy it when you can see the subject showing personality and interaction with the environment. I would love to see a snake of any species hunting, that would be a real find.

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SafariChick

Fabulous photos, @@Safaridude - though I feel bad for the sociable weavers, having been attacked not once but twice already in this report. That is not very sociable behavior, I'd say.

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@@Safaridude thanks for another great TR and photos from one of my favourite parks.

 

I particularly like the grey heron at sunset, the cobra raider and the AWC shots.

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michael-ibk

Oh, what a treat! Great report, love your photos - perfect timing since I´m off to SA and KTP this Friday. I worry, though, that you have used up all Leopard sightings and there will be none left for me! ;)

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@@Safaridude You continue to outdo even yourself with your incredible photos and always witty commentary. I can't wait for the next installment

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Safaridude

@@michael-ibk

 

I wish you a successful trip (with lots of leopards). It looks like some more showers are coming KTP's way… that's should keep the prey animals on the riverbeds a bit longer for you.

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Safaridude

Day 7

 

 

Today we explore the upper parts of the Nossob riverbed before getting onto the Gharagab one-way road (available only to those staying at Gharagab Camp) through the dunes on our way to Gharagab Camp. The dune veld is relatively empty. Both Benson and Natasha were here a month ago when there was a lot of game in the dunes. The subsequent rains have rendered the vegetation on the riverbeds more attractive to the herbivores, and there has been a wholesale movement of game. Such can be the way in Kgalagadi: here today; gone tomorrow.

 

 

8:28am – Red hartebeests through the driedoring.

 

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10:32am – Not a brilliant photo of a northern black korhaan.

 

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11:27am – Ground squirrel

 

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12:55pm – A greater kudu bull strolls through open woodland. Kudus are rare in Kgalagadi, and they are mostly found in the northern section of the Nossob riverbed.

 

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3:24pm – We enter the Gharagab one-way road. The view in front is truly endless. The guests of Gharagab camp have this all to themselves.

 

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3:36pm – A kori bustard wandering through the dune veld.

 

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4:35pm – Greater kestrel

 

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4:39pm – Witchweed (Striga gesnerioides). Though attractive in appearance, it parasitizes grass.

 

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6:16pm – The day’s last light on camelthorn trees near camp.

 

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6:23pm – My first elephant shrew – just next to my tent.

 

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6:36pm – Benson

 

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Edited by Safaridude
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Safaridude

Day 8

 

 

We leave Gharagab after just one night. We move on to Ta Shabube’s other property, Polentswa Lodge. Unlike Rooiputs Lodge, which is just a few paces from the main Nossob Road, Polentswa Lodge is situated about 5km from the main road, deep into Botswana, and overlooks a salt pan in the middle of the large Polentswa Pan. Gemsboks and red hartebeests are constant visitors to the salt pan in search of minerals.

 

 

5:32am – The waterhole in front of Gharagab Camp.

 

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6:25am – Dawn

 

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6:53am – Natasha getting ready for the day.

 

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7:07am – The sun shining through the grass.

 

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8:18am – A strange scene with a pair of lanner falcons on the ground behind a family of meerkats. Not sure what the lanner falcons were up to.

 

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8:37am – Wild sesame (Sesamum triphyllum)

 

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2:43pm – The viewing deck at Polentswa Lodge overlooking the salt pan.

 

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4:36pm – Red hartebeest on the plain near Langkaas.

 

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4:51pm – Gemsbok on the plain.

 

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7:13pm - The dining area of Polentswa Lodge.

 

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8:42pm – The salt pan and a shooting star in the distance.

 

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8:49pm – Benson and Neo and Benson and Neo.

 

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Edited by Safaridude
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@@Safaridude Really enjoying this report with some stunning photography. Thanks.

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'Kgalagadi never gives 100% satisfaction' - Getting increasingly hard to believe with this trip report...;)

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Atravelynn

1st photo of #37 and last of #38, what unique results. The first achieved by perspective and an artistic eye, the last by employing an innovative photoshop technique (unless they're all really ghosts, which I doubt.)

 

Nice going on your first elephant shrew!

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Safaridude

@@Atravelynn

 

Thank you. No "Photoshopping" in the last photo in post #38. The ghostly image was achieved with long exposure (involvng a tripod and cable release) of about 30 seconds. Half way through the exposure period, I had Benson and Neo change seats. Fun stuff.

Edited by Safaridude
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Atravelynn

@@Atravelynn

 

Thank you. No "Photoshopping" in the last photo in post #38. The ghostly image was achieved with long exposure (involvng a tripod and cable release) of about 30 seconds. Half way through the exposure period, I had Benson and Neo change seats. Fun stuff.

Thank you for confirming, though, that no ghosts were involved in the process!

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A great report with you usual excellent photos.

Your Wild Cats are a particular favourite - but I also love the Goshawk sequence.

The green and flowers make the area look particularly beautiful.

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@@Atravelynn

 

Thank you. No "Photoshopping" in the last photo in post #38. The ghostly image was achieved with long exposure (involvng a tripod and cable release) of about 30 seconds. Half way through the exposure period, I had Benson and Neo change seats. Fun stuff.

 

Really fun...a little bit disappointed to hear there were no actual ghosts around though :)

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Safaridude

Day 9

 

 

Polentswa Lodge is 61km north of Nossob Camp. Aside from a few campers following the “Polentswa Wilderness Trail” and a trickle of vehicles from Grootkolk, the area is pretty much devoid of traffic. The area is not known for its game, but it must be due to the fact that vehicles whizzing by from Nossob Camp are never in the area early morning or late afternoon – the peak game viewing times. We find the Polentswa area pumping with action.

 

 

6:01am – Coffee time

 

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7:06am – A fallen camelthorn

 

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7:47am – Red hartebeest bulls are pugnacious. Not only do they face off a lot, but they also cover a lot of ground chasing each other.

 

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8:42am – A male lion is encountered on the road. He and his two other pride mates had been walking south on the road since early last night. They would end up covering nearly 30km (almost to Kwang) before retreating during the heat of the day. That’s Polentswa Lodge’s own open vehicle behind the lion. Guests have the option to use the lodge’s vehicle for a fee.

 

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8:45am – The lion climbs up a bank.

 

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9:16am – We pick up one of his pride mates further down the road.

 

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2:47pm – While relaxing in the mess area, Benson, the eagle-eyed, spots two cheetahs resting underneath a small tree out on the Polentswa Pan in front of camp. A gemsbok engages in a stare down.

 

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4:25pm – Benson still observing the cheetahs.

 

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5:20pm – The cheetahs botch a springbok hunt. The set-up was perfect: two springboks walked right in between the two resting cheetahs. During the chase, however, the cheetahs appeared to confuse themselves, not knowing which springbok to go after.

 

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5:59pm – One of the cheetahs marking his territory.

 

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Edited by Safaridude
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Safaridude

Day 10

 

 

Might as well declare this “lion day”...

 

 

8:04am – Just north of the Polentswa waterhole on the main road, we pick up four lions (two young males and two lionesses). They appear to be hunting, trying to take advantage of the concealment afforded by the low-lying road, hoping for prey to unwittingly cross.

 

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8:08am – It turns out they are not serious about hunting. One of the young males goes up the bank to rest.

 

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8:14am – Two others stroll onto the dunes.

 

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10:09am – Some 20km north of the Polentswa waterhole, there is a huge, wide-open plain dotted with game. This has to be cheetah country. Springbok rams are gathered.

 

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10:55am – At the Polentswa Wilderness Trails campsite, a puff adder has nestled up against some tent material.

 

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3:27pm – Gemsboks seem to be in constant search for minerals. They are often seen eating soil. The view of the salt pan from the viewing deck at camp.

 

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3:57pm – This is, without question, the largest lioness I have ever seen. She is larger than some male lions I have seen.

 

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4:50pm – At Langklass, we find a pride of 10 lions, including a mating pair. Though lions usually mate away from their pride, this pair mates in amongst the pride.

 

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5:18pm – The mating male approaches another female. She is not in oestrus, and she would have none of it.

 

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5:23pm – The mating male’s pride mate male has walked off from the pride. This unnerves the mating male. He takes a break from mating and wanders off a bit in search of his pride mate.

 

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5:27pm – He is quickly back at it again.

 

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6:16pm – A goshawk at sunset.

 

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7:30pm – The lodge under moonlight.

 

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7:34pm – The salt pan lit up by moonlight.

 

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8:46pm – The magic of Polentswa Lodge

 

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Edited by Safaridude
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michael-ibk

Really extraordinary photography - just wow!

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many many memorable shots...difficult to pick any favs...of the latest lot cant take eyes off the two lions within the out of focus foliage ! a grand print would look fantastic !

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Africalover

@@Safaridude - as allways fantastic tripreport and photos. It is sad that lodges are poping up on the Botswana side. It used to be for the more adventures people - only camping.

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