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Can you find me a Tiger if we go to India?


Galana

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I don't know about MSG problems (except early Chinese, by which I mean ubiquitous Cantonese, Restaurants overdosed on it with sauces and 'custard') but never found much evidence of its use in India. Why would they corrupt their own cuisine?

Of course the food is 'authentic' Indian as it is made in India. That is no criteria as to quality in my opinion any more than when eating 'authentic French' in France.

"Abroad" in the tropics I stick with Earthian's maxim and rely on "Peel it, cook it or forget it!" although if I am happy with hygiene standards of the place I am staying I will relax that a little.

 

We seemingly never had the option to ask for dishes, it was a Buffet and that was it. Even in our Delhi hotel. I am sure that we may have been able to get 'a la carte' at Chitvan, they were very helpful in all things but it just never occurred to us to ask. As a result we got what everyone else got. Indeed, and no criticism intended, even when we did specify something or other we often were surprised at what actually came to our table as an interpretation of our "order".

 

janzin. You won't starve and you won't get poisoned but I doubt that you will be thrilled either! I know enough about asiatic food to enjoy spiced dishes and the fare offered during my trip was bland. The 'locals' added their own touches from bottles.

Edited by Galana
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Thanks, I'm not worried about starving :) It was just more of a curiosity as to what to expect, and actually I did start a thread on this in the Trip Planning forum, which has yielded some good info!

 

Re: MSG, I don't want to derail this thread or debate it here, I just have had bad and scary reactions (heart palpitations) in which the common denominator has been a heavy dose of MSG (this has happened in Peru, Puerto Rico, Spain, and here in the US.) Ever since I've made a point to avoid MSG it has not recurred. So that's proof enough for me. A little probably doesn't do it, but in many countries they use it liberally. In South Africa's Sabi Sands the owner of one lodge took me into the kitchen and showed me a GIANT can of MSG that they use for soups and stocks (she took me in specifically to show me that she'd told the cooks to put it away during my visit.) So even there, it was liberally used--I was rather surprised, actually! From WebMD: "Some people experience palpitations after eating heavy meals that are rich in carbohydrates, sugar, or fat. Sometimes, eating foods with high levels of monosodium glutamate (MSG), nitrates, or sodium can bring them on."

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Part 5. Days 15 -19 We go to Kaziranga. (3rd try. Two tries failed so this may get truncated.)

Those still awake and counting the days will realise that instead of a very early morning start to Day 15 to drive to Nagpur to catch a plane to Delhi with an impossible connection we left the last report on the afternoon of Day 14 and flew to Delhi for a nights rest before rising at a more reasonable hour to leisurely bird the Hotel grounds.

So Day 15 now starts here. After breakfast we were picked up promptly and driven to Delhi airport at the more sociable hour of 11.00 for the flight to Gowahati scheduled for 12.25.

The flight was full but we had good seats and as we proceeded we got good views of the snow covered Himalayas off our port wing. No ideas which peaks were which but we could see most of them.

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We landed at some other place en route and to pass the time I took a couple of photos of a Russian built Antonov 32 Light transport plane with my 'aviation' hat on.

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We landed at Gowarhati and thus faced the long drive to our next lodge. This was mainly in the dark and not pleasant at all. However we made good time, 4 hours or so, and were checked in at “Wild Grass” and fed and watered by 9pm. “Wild Grass” is a lovely place built in a quite rustic mode although really not that old. We coined the description “Designer dilapidated” as an apt description with no sense of being derogatory.

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In the grounds there were many birds, the ubiquitous Long-tailed Shrike, many Mynahs whilst Crimson Sunbirds and Little Spider Hunters fed on the Bouganvillia.

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Long-tailed Shrike. Sub species Tricolour

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Crimson Sunbirds were hard to see amongst the blooms. Sorry. The Little Spider Hunter got away.

We met our guide Torun and made plans for our stay. It was good to learn he was an excellent birder as whilst large mammals were our prime target we looked forward to seeing some of the avifauna of Assam too. We were not to be disappointed.

The routine was, as usual, up early for a warming cuppa and head out to one of the ranges. We tried a few and each had its special areas. We were now in the run up to Christmas so park traffic was very busy and the lack of loop roads meant those in a hurry who raced past us were met again as they raced back again. Birding was obviously not part of their mission statement.

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"No reckless driving?? Please be specific. This IS India!!

We first headed east which was good for water birds and we were kept busy with waders including our very own “PeeWit” from home. We also met our first wild elephant of the trip and wild Water Buffalo were much in evidence.

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Bar-headed Geese

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Northern Lapwing or as we call it "Peewit!"

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Peregrine Falcon.

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Water Buffalo.

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Wild Ellies. The old Tusker was quite something!

Deer were well represented by 'wet ground' Barasingha and Hog Deer. post-14856-0-39971800-1453661719_thumb.jpg

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Hog Deer.

Of course the sought after and iconic Greater One-horned Rhino is what Kaziranga was created to protect and these were remarkably visible which we found surprising after all we had read.

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Polishing off the invasive Water Hyacinth.

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Mother and calf.

We made our way north to the park boundary which is the famous Brahmaputra river so were able to tick off another famous waterway of the world on our list.

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Not that many left to go now. Swan, Murray-Darling, Mekong, Indus and Orinoco should wrap that up.

We stopped at a nearby picnic site for breakfast and whilst other visitors were staring out at the river I looked the other way and spotted a lone Rhino grazing towards me.

So I got in some nice photos before the multitudes got wise and scared it off.

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Time for some birds methinks.

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Everyone's favourite. Indian Roller.

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Pallas's FishEagle.

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Red Jungle Fowl. Just like our roosters.

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Swamp Francolins. There were four but they kept splitting.

One morning we took the scheduled Elephant safari but saw little other than sleepy rhino and swamp deer in the fog. However as my real passion is for Ellies I could not resist the opportunity to get in some ellie time with the babies.

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I have never liked a Mahout's ready use of that awful Ankus hook and I warned my 'driver' that if he used it I would set my fearsome wife upon him. The threat seemed to work as he mainly used his feet and if the Ankus was used it was flat side down and just a tap as I hummed “Love will find a way!” to myself.

As the sun came up I managed to get some atmospheric shots of the procession.

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Disturbing a Rhino from her slumbers.

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Well she is awake now.

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Shikari Sunrise.

After our ride we all had numb legs from the seat although Rosy recovered enough to be interviewed by “e.TV” but I don't know what the viewers would make of her replies.

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The daily routine was much the same with different locations yielding different sightings.

Birds of course figured prominently:-

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Greenshank.

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Lesser Adjutant.

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Asian Open-billed Stork.

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Stork-billed Kingfisher.

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Grey-headed Fish-Eagle on nest.

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Jungle Mynah.

but Christmas morning brought a special sighting.

But you will have to wait for part 2.

Edited by Galana
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Love the Ellies in the mist, that's worth the numb legs! And the rhino in the water hyacinth...

 

And all the birds, especially the Crimson Sunbird in the garden of Wild Grass. I will definitely make an effort to get some shots of that gorgeous bird.

 

Wonder what your Christmas present was?

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Don't be a tease!

Just a note of caution: I believe that the Airports Authority and or the IAF does not like anyone photographing aircraft. There used to be signs earlier warning people not to take photographs, though in today's world of the modern gizmos including the multi faceted cellphone, i wonder if such rules are practical?

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Next part in course. I hope you like my Christmas present as much as I did.

Not teasing Earthian. At the start I said I had tried to upload the full Kaziranga stage in one go but ST problems frustrated me. So to get something to alleviate janzins impatience I stopped the third attempt half way.

As for the Antonov. Well how are they gonna find me? Headline in Delhi Times "Photographer wanted for questioning. IAF seek leopard called Galana!" LoL

When was Law enforcement ever practical?

Not that I would advocate doing anything remotely sensitive. (One of my many transgressions was to have my collar felt by the "militsiya" for photographing "strategic installations" from the Trans Siberian railway.)

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Second part of Kaziranga. ( I hope.)

 

You had been left in the lurch by Upload problems as Christmas day dawned and I recieved a wonderful present.

Not a tiger but a family of Smooth-coated Otters. Six were seen on a small island gambolling around before taking to the water. They did not make off but actually came towards us and continued to fish with some success. We worked out this was a female with five almost grown cubs.

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We enjoyed their antics for quite some time before they made their way down stream.

More Notable birds followed including both Blue-eared and Blue-cheeked Barbets, a Verditer Flycatcher as well as a lovely White-rumped Shama that refused to come into the open.

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Blue-eared Barbet.

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Blue-cheeked Barbet.

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Lineated Barbet. I hope you like Barbets..

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Verditer Flycatcher.

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White-rumped Shama. I hope to see Mrs Janzin do better with this one.

Other birds included :-

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Emerald Dove,

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Red-collared Dove,

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Green Imperial Pigeon,

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Red Jungle Fowl

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and Red-breasted Parakeet.

Common Stonechat, Oriental Darter, Great Hornbill and Oriental Pied Hornbill were also seen although I failed to get a decent picture of the Great Hornbill. (Others may say I failed to get a decent picture of quite a lot!!)

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Common Stonechat.

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Oriental Darter.

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Oriental Pied Hornbill.

Back along the lake I had no sooner asked if other geese visited when we found a small party of White-fronted Geese as well as a Common Snipe. I was especially pleased to see the Whitefronts but disappointed at only finding Common Snipe when so many other species are to be found. Not this time..

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The White-fronted Geese.

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Common Snipe.

It is getting a bit bird intensive again so I will move on quickly to a Kaziranga Sunset and some turtles.

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Sunsets were often spectacular and tempting.

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I am told these are Assam Tented and Indian Hut Turtles

but don't take my word for it.

Our last evening was spent at a tower overlooking a large reed bed and lake waiting for a tiger to show. We could hear the growling but despite waiting almost until dark it lay still in the reeds. However we did see the only Greater Adjutant of the trip and lots of Pintail ducks and another lovely sunset with a Spot-billed Pelican cruising by.

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The sun goes down on our final night in Kaziranga

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A Spot-billed Pelican glides by.

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Changeable Hawk-Eagle.

Our three full days in Kaziranga made a good impression on us with its variety and of course any serious birder visiting should try and ensure Torun as their guide. We loved the whole area, including some walks outside the park where Torun tried to show us a Collared Falconette without success.

Our Lodge at "Wild Grass" was superb and far nicer that some of the oher places we have stayed at. The owner and staff was very friendly and quite ready to discuss how to make our stay memorable. Don't change a thing.

26th December involved a drive back to Guwahati and a return flight to Delhi and our rooms at Uppal prior to a drive up to Ramnagar and Jim Corbett Reserve..

For that you will have to wait.

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Merry Otter Christmas! A great gift :)

 

And yes I love Barbets. One of my favorite groups, along with woodpeckers. Interesting how there are South American Barbets, African Barbets and Asian Barbets as well. You would not think these were such a wide-ranging genus.

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Lobe the Kaziranga part, brings me right back - thank you! Glad to hear you had Tarun, a fabulous young guide IMO.

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I think Tarun one of the best guides I have had in my many travel. Indefatigable and non stop but with a nice "birdside manner".

I am hoping that the final part may get posted later today.

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Days 20 – 24. Delhi to Ramnagar and Jim Corbett.

The final curtain. (Almost literally)

After a comfortable night we met our driver and headed out for the gruelling drive to Ramnagar. This should be so easy on India's modern highways but of course this does not allow for the Indian drivers and their selfish thrusting style. If it is possible to make a mess of a junction and hold up a smooth flow they will find a way to do it. Dual lanes are for both directions, “Hard shoulders” are for creating extra lanes. Central 'reservations' if not occupied by cows and pigs are for doing your repairs on or just to assist in changing lanes. I won't mention what they do at Toll booths and Level Crossings.

But eventually we got to the bustling town of Ramnagar and found our home for one night at the lovely Karan's Corbett Motel or as it says in the literature “The Birding Lodge”.

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After a wash and brush up on the lawn outside our cabin Mr Karan took us to the Barrage for some birding where we saw Wallcreepers, Brown Chats, Black Redstarts, River Lapwings, the first of many Crested Kingfishers and more Ruddy Sheldducks that you would think existed.

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Wallcreeper.

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Crested KIngfisher.

On our way home we went down passed the striking Garjiya Devi Temple to the river where we found the sought after IbisBill.

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Garjiva Devi Temple.

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The much sought after Ibisbill

A nice meal and a good nights rest followed in this lovely lodge. www.karanscorbettmotel.com

Then it was pack the car and head into Jim Corbett Tiger Reserve which I had long had on my list to visit. We had 50km to drive to get to Dhikala Camp and as it was early morning we took in some birds of course.

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A pair of Common Kingfishers.

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Khalij Pheasants

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Tawny Fish Owl.

However we were totally unprepared for what followed.

Our gentle drive came to an abrupt halt when our guide Davinder called “Tiger” and there by the side of the track was a large and apparently very angry male. He was certainly not pleased to be interrupted in his morning pleasures. We got a couple of photos of him through the screen of bushes but as we positioned for a clear view he went down into a meaningful crouch with his ears flat back and his tail thrashing from side to side. Our driver took the hint and we left. This one was not to be trifled with.

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Angry Tiger.

As we drove off we heard a low call and wondered if in fact he had a lady with him. If so I think I can understand his attitude.

As we progressed Davinder called “Leopard” but try as we might we completely failed to get a good look.

We checked into Dhikala and were shown to our rooms which looked fine although a wary eye had to be kept on the Rhesus Macaques and doors and windows kept firmly closed.

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Our Home in the Hutments.

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Our room. we were very well looked after just watch out for the Macaques.

Our drives got off to a good start with many birds and mammals a surprising number of which were new to our growing check list despite being in India for over two weeks now.

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Pallas's Fish Eagle.

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Streak-throated Woodpecker.

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Black Francolin.

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Red-wattled Lapwing and Eurasian Hoopoe.

Morning drives were quite atmospheric with the mist hanging low over the river so I turned my hand at capturing some landscapes as this Park must certainly rank as one of the most attractive in India. One I shall certainly try to return to.

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But we were here for the birds and many more were added to our growing list. Indeed it must be said that we probably got more new birds in 48 hours than at many other locations.

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Grey Bushchat.

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Green Magpie. It was taking a late evening Bath.

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Changeable Hawk Eagle Black-shouldered Kite. One of my favourite Raptors.

More scenes to break the monotony.

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If you are looking for more mammals I have added an elephant. I love elephants, even domestic ones.

So to press on with birds or this tale will never end:-

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Collared Falconet.

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Fulvous-breasted Woodpeckers.

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Hodgson's Bushchat.

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Grey-headed Woodpecker

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and yet another variant of the ubiquitous Long-tailed Shrike. They come in all colours.

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Common Woodshrike.

Our last drive out of the park still kept producing some good sightings and added to the list which was both surprising and very welcome as we had considered that if we came home with a list of over two hundred species we would be happy and now it looked like the final figure would be closer to 300.

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River Lapwing White-capped Redstart

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Plumbeous Water Redstart.

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Slaty-headed Parakeet.

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Long-tailed Minivet.

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Eurasian Sparrowhawk

Birds even got in on the act when we found some sunbasking Gharial as we could not get the Peafowl to move out of the picture.post-14856-0-43417400-1453929107_thumb.jpg

But the trip was coming to an end and there are only three more photos to go.

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A final look at the beautiful Kosi River.

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A farewell smile from a wild boar.

and of course I had to end with the end of a bird.

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Asian Barred Owlet looks back.

And so it was back to Delhi and the hellish traffic! We were over 90 minutes late for dinner with our host and capable ground agent. Even the extremely talented Vinod Goswami with his impeccable organisational skills for flights and lodges as well as ensuring 4 Tigers and 296 species of birds was soundly beaten by the awful Delhi Traffic.

The flight home was almost an anti-climax. The planes were quite full but we had arranged good seats and arrived home on schedule.

The arrangements all worked well and it is time to plan the next one.

Edited by Galana
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Kingfisher is the Tiger of everyone's dreams, such a fantastic sighting. I remember riding those elephants, I could hardly walk when I got off! Love the owls, barbets etc. I need some lessons on bird spotting :) Pen

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@@Galana, a very nice report with some very lucky Tigers, the last one especially so, and you managed a nice photo too. The Lesser Adjutant is probably the ugliest bird I have ever seen, although beauty is in the eye…. I'm not dead if I'm still twitching, my laugh for the day. Thanks

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Great report @@Galana! Now aren't you glad I twisted your arm? ;)

 

Corbett looks beautiful and now of course I wish I were going there...so many new and different birds...Ibisbill!! Wallcreeper!! Oh well...for another trip.

 

Glad you survived the angry tiger and the Delhi traffic!

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Corbett is such a beautiful park, and your pictures show it well. That Tiger sighting - wow, very lucky, and surely a pulse-driving encounter. Love the Green Magpie, what a beautiful bird. Thanks again for this report, pleasure to read. So, where next for you?

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what a birdie-filled report, and I love it. I find it hard to remember the birds' names or trying to ID them, but i do like birds.

your birds in particular were beautiful, bright and brilliant.

 

the lesser adjutant had a bad hair day, but the oriental darter was magnificent. wonderful look-back from the owl in the last picture. mysterious misty mornings, and baby elephants following the adults ridden by mahouts. I'm glad you told your mahout to lay off that hook, otherwise someone (like me, if i ever sit on an elephant again) may be tempted to hook it into his shoulder (pardon the violence).

 

you brought back the beauty of kaziranga that makes me wish to go one day,and corbett is lovely too. what an angry tiger, but still a good shot to document it!

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fiscal shrike

Thanks for the report and the pros and cons of India safaris. The birds are certainly a high draw as well as the ellies and tiger. I didn't know that Marabou Stork had an almost as ugly cousin - Lesser Adjutant. On the ugly scale, I think the Marabou still 'wins'. There scavanger traits add to their repulsiveness in my book. But the green magpie and the other brilliantly coloured birds make up for the ugly ones. Corbett remains high on my list, and the Himilayas continue to request more and more days. Hard to know how to balance the birds and the baghs.

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Thanks everyone for your kind remarks for my first report on ST.

@@penolva. A fellow Celt. Maybe a Cornish Pixie will find you a tall dark stranger to help you with the birds. :rolleyes: I hope so as they are worth it.

@ elefromoz. Happy to bring a smile in these dark days. I see both you and fiscal #67 don't care for the Lesser Adjutant. There is a Greater version too. No doubt just as ugly but bigger with it.

@@janzin. My arm was so sore it slowed my writings. Wallcreepers in Italy too. Be lucky!

@@michael-ibk Yes, that Corbett Tiger was quite scary and I am not one that scares. We had got so used to the gentlemen in Khana that his attitude came as a shock. It was HIS territory and he let us know he was quite ready to defend it. Where next? Another cat calls!

@@Kitsafari. Pleased you liked my birds. I had pangs of guilt putting up so many on a "Safari" forum but the variety does catch the eye. I got so captured by the mists of Kaziranga and Corbett that I just had to try a landscape or two too!

@fiscal. I think the birds of India are worth a visit. Something about the flamboyant colours that you don't always find in Africa although there are some stunners there too. Of all the places visited on this trip Jim Corbett fulfilled my expectations most. I have been to Nepal and the rest of the Himalayas are beckoning me too. Once seen never forgotten.

"Balancing Bagh and birds." Snappy title for someone? I think the Bagh wins. Nothing can really surpass that cat up close. A lion may be Majestic but a tiger gives you goosebumps and is simply magnificent.

Edited by Galana
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@@Galana

 

Excellent trip report, and tigers in the wild ... maybe one of next x-mas gifts :P .

 

Enjoy your next trip; don't forget the warm undies :D !

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@Galana

 

Great report really enjoyed reading of your adventures and travels.

 

Your sighting of the male tiger in Kanha was excellent,some wonderful bird photos and information.

 

Really whetted my appetite for my trip next week. Visiting both Kanha and Tadoba again. Will be my 3rd trip to both parks.

 

Did you have experience with the Dholes in Kanha? Last time I visited( March 15) they were spotted a couple of times in Mukki zone,but I always just missed them.

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@@xelas. Warm undies indeed. Needed in Kaziranga and Jim Corbett certainly. Probably the Kgalagadi too?

 

@@Johnmac. Pleased that you thought it useful.

Good luck next week. We did not see Dhole this trip which was a pity as I think them wonderful creatures.

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