Safari Virginity --- Gone.

[Alexander33]

@@Big Andy

 

With the saddle-billed stork in post #55 (which I am totally jealous of, by the way), your photos are finally coming through. And how wonderful they are!

 

Speaking of which, I think this one is a keeper for the coffee table book:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Love the title of your report. Hilarious. But if this is only your first safari, I hope your realize how exceptional your experience was -- even for Africa.

 

Really enjoying this, and I think that the parallel with Michael's report truly adds dimension to the whole thing. Keep it coming!

[Big Andy]

Once again thank you all for the kind comments and persevering through the photo's not showing bit, that should't be a problem now their hosted on Flickr but not a lot I can do about the earlier ones unless my posts can be unlocked for me to change the links.

[Big Andy]

Day 4

I crawled form my bed after little sleep with red rimmed eyes but couldn't have been happier to rise before the sun and prepare for another day. Breakfast of porridge, toast and strong tea, a short council of war with Andy and it was decided to go out along the river bed and try to see where the noisy lions of the night had gone for the day. It only seemed fair to me, they had kept me awake at night now it was my turn to spoil their days sleep. But as seems to happen a lot on safari the best laid plans got scuppered within 20 minutes. First we walked passed the scene of the Kudu kill for the previous evening. There was not a lot left and I don't know whether it was more lions, or hyenas that had reduced it to little more than bones. There were tracks every where and little chance of making sense of them.

 

 

 

We headed out of the riverbed up the steep slope on the left hand side looking up stream, where we had originally seen Sapi run down from. Andy scouted around for a few moments and then pointed out the fresh lion spore he'd found leading away into the thicker bush. He asked if we were still happy to go looking for the cats. Happy! you bet I was happy, I could think of nothing I wanted more, the buzz of creeping through the bush towards Sapi the day before was still very fresh in my mind and I loved the thought of repeating that.

However as I said the best laid plans and all that. We hadn't gone more than 50 yards when a cloud of dust started to show not to far ahead of us. You guessed it, Buffalo coming down for a morning drink, which left us beating a hasty retread back to the river bed and up the opposite bank to settle down in a little cover and await developments. Slowly the dust drew nearer then a row of horned heads appeared on the opposite side. They seemed to debate the question of who was going to go down first and check things and they hung around for quite a while before one brave lass took the plunge closely followed by all the others. Andy estimated there were about 120 in the herd, I'd have said more like thousands but will bow to his experience.

 

The first one starts the decent.

 

Then the trickle.

 

Soon to be followed by a dusty charge.

 

They stayed in the stream bed for about 30 minutes before once again one started back and slowly the other turned and followed heading for where ever it was they intended to eat that day because all the local fodder had long since gone unless you were a carnivore. Strangely about eight of them seemed totally oblivious to the fact that all their fellows had left and then broke into a panic dashing after the others. How they could not notice that around 110 Buffalo had just left them i don't know but that's what it looked like.

 

 

We watched the riverbed for a while when a large number doves started to come down for their turn at the water, photos don't do justice to the scene (not mine anyway) but it was great to watch with the odd explosion of activity as a Peregrine Falcon would swoop down and try it's luck. Always when the camera was pointing the other way so not even a blurry shot of that.

However here's one of the doves.

 

 

We now decided it was time to resume our lion tracking but the Buffalo had put paid to all the tracks which meant having to find a new trail. The sun was getting higher and there still seemed to be quite a lot of buffs in the scrub around us making it unsafe to proceed with the tracking at this stage.

New plan, head back to camp for an early lunch and rest up until it "cooled" (a relative term) a little for us to start again. Lunch was a great time of day as you just chilled out and watched the local life get on with living. I was particularly interested in the Baboons having been told this troop was almost unique in that they had become completely used to humans being around them but had no interest in us or our food to the point that they would walk past the dinning table with all the condiments laid out and ignore it. They were also happy to sit near you complete with youngsters and so long as you stayed reasonably still they remained unconcerned. The impala on the other hand were as nervous here as anywhere else but I suppose that's inevitable when your number one on the menu for most things predatory.

 

This handsome chap came by during the midday heat looking very smart.

 

 

Followed shortly after by this dodgy looking lot.

Hope you washed between those toes before going to bed that night lads.

[michael-ibk]

Pfff ... I wore my muddy toes with honour for the rest of this safari. ;-)

 

That photo just made me remember how painfully hot those last 100 m of waterless sand were. Ouch!

 

You got your buffs the easy way, it was so totally cooler waiting and waiting and waiting for them and even cooler when they would not show up.

 

Really love that first Bushbuck photo!

[Big Andy]

Really love that first Bushbuck photo!

 

You mean the one with all the Buffalo in the back ground.

 

I wish I'd tried the bare foot routine myself but I'll have to wait for next time now.

[Safaridude]

@@Big Andy

 

That post #62 is simply spectacular.

[Big Andy]

Day 4 continued

 

After a slow lunch and doze in the shade (I could get used to this life style) Andy suggested we head higher up the river bed then head out from there to see what tracks were about as the buffalo had obliterated the first ones we'd found. We did see this handsome male Kudu with a slightly clipped horn but he didn't hang about. I now know it was because Doug, Mike, and Andreas were coming from the other direction but didn't realise until I saw the same photo's in his TR.

 

 

 

 

We also got to see this female Bush Buck to go with the male seen earlier, not as striking as the male but good to see.

 

 

 

So on with the lion tracking now the temperature had drop to a cool 38C, we once again headed up the river to go and look in an area call the bad lands, I rather stupidly failed to ask why they were called that, so don't ask me. We went beyond where the Buffalo had entered the river that morning so as to hopefully find clear tracks. We climbed the bank and had no sooner got our heads over the top when a much bigger herd of Buffalo appeared straight in front of us yet again, also going for their daily drink. Once again we hurried down to the river bed and found ourselves a safe reasonably concealed spot to watch the event. This time Andy said his estimate was for around 450 head at least and the dust was horrendous. I had to settle for the lens on the camera 400mm + 1.4x converter so couldn't get an overall view without exposing the cameras innards which I wasn't prepared to do.

 

 

 

 

 

One taken with the backup camera which did have a wider lens on ready.

 

 

This once again put paid to lion tracking but how can you complain? A herd of up to 500 Buffalo within yards of us, it really is one of the great spectacles in life and no complaints from me. I had read a lot of reports on here before going on safari for myself so realised what a special time we were having, then got on with filling another memory card.

We watched them for around an hour before they all decided to move on and it was OK to move. It was not a danger for us to have moved at any time as we were safely tucked away on the bank and screened by fallen logs but would have been bad to have stopped the Buffalo getting their drink as it would be at least 24 hours before they got another chance. Lion tracking was put on hold for now and we went for a wander through the bush to see what we could find, so interesting but not the sort of thing to photograph with a 400 mm lens. I did however take this shot of the inside of a baobab tree which was used in the past by a Leopard and still had a few Baboon skeletons inside.

 

 

 

Just as I was thinking about the fact we would have to start hurrying back with the sun heading towards the horizon and the thought of hurrying wasn't good in that heat when the Natureways vehicle pulled up with a cool box full for us to have sundowners in the bush and a leisurely drive back, a much more civilized way to end the day. All of course pre planned by Andy without saying a word to us.

[Big Andy]

I did miss a bit, after a day in the river bed the remains of the Kudu were picked clean, it took 24 hours from a living animal to a few bones that looked like they had been there for years. I assume the Jackals and vultures had finished the job while we were out and about.

 

 

 

I'll get on with day 5 tomorrow.

[Marks]

Great photos. Impressive how quickly the kudu carcass was completely consumed.

[Zim Girl]

@@Big Andy

 

Seeing the buffalo herds come down to drink from the spring at Chitake is a great experience, glad you got to see it. I like the B&W portrait.

[TonyQ]

Really good pictures of all those buffalo - I really like the group portrait drinking

[Atravelynn]

The "on the river" series ending with dodgy looking lot was great. The buffalo seemed to like you.

[Big Andy]

Day 5

 

Once again it was a very broken nights sleep with the noise and heat to deal with it wasn't much of a surprise, the heat I would happily have done without but the noises still held me in awe and loved every bit of it. I could catch up with the sleep later this was to good to waste with my eyes shut so was out of bed and ready to go again as soon as the camp staff started to move around. We hadn't had a lot of success with the tracking as we kept bumping into the Buffalo which wiped out all traces each time and this morning was no different. As we picked up the trail the Buffalo returned once again which was starting to get a little embarrassing as we new that Mike and Andreas were trying to get such a sighting and we seemed to be Buffalo magnets. Third time it happened and it's still a sight worth watching so once again we wriggled into the undergrowth got the cameras ready and enjoyed the spectacle.

 

I liked the way all the Oxpeckers flew to the backs of the Lead animals to avoid the dust then spread out to dine once the herd stopped moving.

 

 

 

Also noted was the way the Buffalo at the down stream end would move to the upstream end as the water decreased it's flow due to so many thirsty drinkers, slowly the whole herd did this moving away to the top end at a constant trickle until they had all had their fill.

 

This time however they didn't leave in the direction we hoped to go looking for tracks so perhaps we would get more luck this morning. We did indeed find lion spore, lots of lion spore, it seemed to cross back over it's self so many times and different sizes indicating different cats in the mix maybe at the same time, maybe traveling individually. In some ways this was frustrating as I wanted to follow along and see were they were going and doing but Andy made it so interesting pointing out scrapes where they'd urinated or flattened areas were they'd lay down to rest and in one place an explosion of activity were it appeared they'd tried to predate a Buffalo but seemed to have lost that battle. So although we couldn't follow one set of tracks to its conclusion it was a great learning experience which I wouldn't have missed.

 

As the sun started to beat on our heads it was time to return to base for lunch and a relaxing cold drink in the shade, it was amazing how they kept enough ice for the cold drinks in all that heat but they did and very welcome it was.

 

We had our usual company of Baboons while this went on and they were great entertainment with their bickering, playing, and feeding habits while completely ignoring us.

 

 

 

Being a stubborn crew we set out again that afternoon to diligently keep following the lion spore. I was getting good at this by now and could easily differentiate between lion and impala but thought it best to let Andy lead as I wouldn't want to appear to pushy. We quite quickly found lion tracks again but this time we were on the other side of the river bed to where we'd been in the morning and things weren't wiped by buffalo. So began two hours of finding, following, losing, finding again fun tracking lion. We seemed to be following a big loop out from camp then back towards the river bed and Andy thought the tracks seemed reasonably fresh and certainly not from the previous day. The light was starting to go and it looked like another almost for us when there was a gentle grunting cough from not far ahead, not a roar but Andy said more a low communication call among pride members. We moved forwards a few yards and there she was, Sapi lying in the open and once again not in the least bit bothered by our presence.

 

 

 

I know she is not the most photogenic of lions but I still think she is a wonderful girl. The pride I'd see back on the flood plane were great with two males, three cubs and four females but they were viewed from a vehicle and there really is no comparison. It still thrills me just thinking about standing there watching her watching me and both of us being cool about it. Note Andy's and Shirley's stance, they are not facing directly at her so not presenting a challenge or threat and she was doing the same, not turning to face us.

 

After this it was back to camp in the fading light, another splendid dinner followed by an early night as I was exhausted, elated, yes but definitely exhausted. The heat, the walking, the lack of sleep, and the constant adrenaline rushes do take it out of you, but I wouldn't change any of it.

 

Day 6 next.

Edited November 10, 2015 by Big Andy

[twaffle]

@@Big Andy it looks like you've fixed your photo issue and I've fixed (hopefully) your earlier posts and deleted some of the posts that only discussed and trialled different image inserting issues. I hope the early photos show up for everyone but I've checked on my iPad as well as on my desktop and everything looks normal now.

 

Send me a PM if you have any other problems.

 

Love the report, some truly wonderful sightings well caught on camera.

[ZaminOz]

@@Big Andy

Love your lioness - Buffalo stand-off photo!

[Alexander33]

@@Big Andy

 

I'm not sure I agree that Sapi is not so photogenic. Granted, her coloration and coat are a bit rough, but that's all outweighed by her expressive eyes. She's had quite a life, and I guess I have to say I feel a sense of -- respect, I think is the word -- for her.

 

Great buffalo photos. Actually, great photos, period. Thanks for sharing this with us.

[Big Andy]

@@twaffle Thank you that's much appreciated.

[Big Andy]

@@Alexander33 Thank you Alex and I agree respect for the old girl is a good word. She is also known to have reared at least nine cubs to adult hood which is also quite a remarkable achievement.

[CaroleE]

To say it was the the best holiday of my life is like saying the arctic is a bit chilly, it was an awesome experience that I now know I will have to repeat as often as possible whenever the bank manager allows.

 

 

What a great start to your trip report. This was what I had hoped to hear on your return! So pleased the trip met or by the sounds of it exceeded your expectations.

Now going to read more......

 

OK I've caught up now. And wow what a first few days of the trip you had! I too like the lion with kudo looking towards the buffalo shot. Also the buffalo and all the dust shots. Very atmospheric.

Sapi looks like a fine old lion.

 

Looking forward to reading about the rest of the trip. After this start my expectations are high now

Edited November 11, 2015 by CaroleE

[Big Andy]

Day 6

Today we leave Chitake Spring and head down to the Zambezi for a further four nights in the excellent care of Nature Ways mobile camp and still being guided by Andy. All the packing had been done the night before so we were free to head out early for another dose of tracking before climbing into Andy's Toyota for the journey to the floodplain. You might of guessed by now that I loved tracking the animals through the bush rather than driving around hoping for things to show them selves. This morning Andy suggested walking down the river bed to see where the lions had left it as he had heard them just below camp shortly before dawn. I hadn't heard them this time as I'd at last slept like a baby. I'm not sure if this was because I was exhausted or I was getting used to the night sounds, probably the former.

 

We spread across the river bed and moved slowly down stream and surprise surprise it was Andy that found the tracks kindly pointing out how I'd walk straight over them. perhaps he does earn his keep after all. This did really look good this time as there were at least five different cats all heading in the same general direction and so crisp they had to be very recent. We headed out of the river bed in hot pursuit and in less than a miles walking heard a warning growl from the bushes ahead of us. The adrenaline levels once again hit the roof as we started to count the cats we could see. That was three at that time but later got as high as eight and possibly more.

 

We of course stopped and waited while they got settled with our presence which didn't seem to take long although time just seemed to stop so I don't know how long it actually was. The reason they ignored us soon became clear, they had more important things on their minds, breakfast. Breakfast this morning was Buffalo and looked to be a full grown cow probably brought down only a few hours earlier so the first rush to feed was over and it was more a case of nibble a bit then rest for ten minutes. It came as no surprise to see Sapi in the middle of things, and I was really pleased to see her again on my last morning in the area.

 

 

A close crop of Sapi.

 

 

 

You can see that Shirley is watching things through binoculars, I've stepped back to take photos, and Andy is looking at bushes. It turned out that once again he showed his worth by quietly suggesting we step back a little which of course we did. He then pointed out another cat which neither of us had seen and this one didn't appreciate us being so close. It gave a short charge of a few yards (did I mention adrenaline levels ) then having proved it's point joined the others for breakfast.

 

 

 

 

As good as this was we had a few hours driving to do so all good things must come to an end and we set off back to where camp had been. It was gone, not a trace left to show we'd even been there apart from a few foot prints and a little fresh turned earth where the long drop had been, just as it should be. We climbed into Andy's Toyota with the non functioning air conditioning, so windows lowered and off we went.

Edited November 11, 2015 by Big Andy

[Big Andy]

The journey to the flood plain was in the heat of the day and just like our earlier run up to Chitake it seemed to be mile after mile of rough dusty road with little life to be seen apart from the odd bird. We did however pull off this road after an hour or so onto a side track which was a relief as this was of sand and not the corrugations that the "main road/track" consisted of. The other pleasant surprise was after a few minutes we came around a bend to find a pan still containing water, obviously preplanned by Andy. We stopped here for a break and to eat lunch. We were not the only visitors to the pan, Stretch Ferreira of Goliath Camp was there with a few guests to see what animals were coming in here to drink. While not over loaded with life there were a few Elephant there for a while including a young calf having a wonderful time in the muddy water followed by a roll in the dust.

 

 

Accompanying the cows with the calf was a young bull who was very full of himself, flapping his ears, kicking mud and water towards us and generally strutting his stuff until he realized he was on his own and the others had stayed over the other side. That put a stop to his antics, the ears stopped flapping and no more kicking mud, just a stroll back to the cows trying to look cool about things. That's the anthropomorphic view on things at least.

 

 

 

 

 

While watching this we enjoyed a packed lunch and an ice cold drink from the cool box. Just before leaving we had a Nyala cow with a calf come down for a drink, a real bonus as this time I had the camera ready unlike when we saw them on the journey up.

 

 

 

The rest of the journey didn't seem to take long and we soon started to see more animals about as we approached the flood plane. We arrived at our designated camp site of Mucheni One instead of the planned Trichelia. Situated on the banks of the Zambezi under the shade of a few mature trees it looked a delightful spot to spend the next four nights. Due to a break down the Nature Ways team had only got there a short while before us so leaving them in peace to get on with their work we went on a short game drive around the local area. No lion kills within ten minutes of arrival this time but still some lovely sightings in the beautiful evening light.

 

 

 

Tomorrows plan = Dogs.

[Alexander33]

@@Big Andy

 

That interloping lion charging you while on foot, even if just for a few yards? Yikes! Adrenaline indeed!

 

Those last two elephant photos are superb. I wish we could bottle that wonderful golden late afternoon light so that we could splash it at will whenever a photogenic opportunity arises. Great fortune and good capture.

[Big Andy]

@@Big Andy

 

That interloping lion charging you while on foot, even if just for a few yards? Yikes! Adrenaline indeed!

 

Those last two elephant photos are superb. I wish we could bottle that wonderful golden late afternoon light so that we could splash it at will whenever a photogenic opportunity arises. Great fortune and good capture.

 

The golden hour, you would be a very rich man if you could bottle it, although it's more like the golden ten minutes in Africa with the speed of the sunset.

 

Strange as it may seem the lion charge was not in the least frightening, yes the adrenaline went through the roof but I was very relaxed with it and so was Shirley.

That might say a lot about our mental state though.

Edited November 12, 2015 by Big Andy

[Whyone?]

Great, great lion's at Chitake - sighting such as that really separate Mana from so many other destinations - where else could you do that?

 

Strangely, I empathise with your apparent lack of fear when being charged by lion, and yes, I am sure it is a state of mind thing!!!!

 

I'll be interested to hear how you got on with lions once on the floodplain - as you know, our time there overlapped and it is the quietest week in Mana I have ever had for cats. No sightings until the final day, and no calling at night. We spoke to Stretch a time or two, as well as other self drivers, and everyone was struggling.

[Big Andy]

@@Whyone?

We were beating them off like mozzies.

 

 

You'll have to wait and see.

Edited November 12, 2015 by Big Andy