Tanzania's Southern Circuit: Selous, Ruaha, Katavi and more - August-September 2015

[Julian]

@@Julian

 

When were you there? I guess we just missed each other? My traveling dates were Aug 31 - Sep 15.

 

Sept 23rd to Oct 9th

[Safaridude]

@@Anomalure

 

Thank you for the clarification on the bush squirrel. They were common around Selous Impala Camp.

[Marks]

You have outdone yourself so far. Your writing is very engaging and rewards the careful reader with many reasons to smile. I'm glad you got your wildebeest, but you've reminded me that I missed the Cookson's in South Luangwa.

 

It is hard to choose a favorite photo amongst so many excellent ones, but I think I will single out the wildebeest clustered around the baobab as deserving of special mention. You get a very powerful sense of scale in that photo.

 

 

The only beings I am aware of that can churn that much stuff with that much commotion are T. rex and elephant.

 

Maybe next time.

[Treepol]

@@offshorebirder thanks for the tip, I have read that so I will dip into it again.

[Safaridude]

@@Marks

 

Thank you for your kind words.

[Safaridude]

Ruaha National Park

 

 

 

Lions. Lions. Lions. They are everywhere! Look across the sand river… lions. Look under the bridge… lions. What’s that under that baobab tree? Lions. Can we get closer to those crowned cranes? Whoa! Lions. Can we stop for a quick bathroom break? Oops! Lions.

 

It’s not just the number. It’s that they are so conspicuous along the riverbeds during the dry season. And our luck would have it that they, known mostly for doing nothing, would almost always be up to something. Our first evening, three young cubs coo and suckle from a totally laid-out mum out on an open sandy bed of the Mwagusi River. The next morning, two slightly older cubs of a different pride play fight against an elephant dung heap and against each other. Exhausted, they beg to suckle from mum but are thwarted by an emphatic, not-right-now snarl (she lets them after a drink from the Ruaha River). Moments later, we encounter a visibly nervous female cheetah (a rare treat in Ruaha) and soon find the cause of her concern: two big male lions marching toward her abandoned impala kill. That evening, we find that a large pride of lions has chased off a smaller pride (which includes the said mum and her three young cubs) off a giraffe kill. The large pride now feasting on the giraffe contains four sub-adult males but no mature males. Suddenly, two of the sub-adult males rise and bristle at a shadowy figure hundreds of meters away. It is the smaller pride’s dominant male, who was absent at the time his pride was chased off the giraffe kill. He has no doubt come to exact revenge. For several tense moments, you can sense the deliberations going on in his head: four of them vs. me. But I am much bigger. Could I take them all on? For the next half an hour, it’s a dance of sorts: the big male edging closer with confidence and fury, but then hesitating and stopping as doubt creeps in; and the four sub-adult males oscillating between precocious bravery and fear. In the end, we unfortunately run up against the park curfew. At mid-day, we find ourselves admiring the views near Msembe, the park headquarters. And wouldn’t you know it? Lions. Hunting impala up in the hills. Can’t get away from them… a mating pair (the male with crazed eyes, known for being very kali with vehicles) at dawn on the Mwagusi.

 

Can you spot her?

 

There she is...

 

 

Taking a break from nursing

 

Play fight to begin

 

Stalking an elephant dung heap

 

Adorable

 

Not now!

 

A visibly nervous cheetah

 

 

 

The source of the cheetah's concern

 

Marking

 

Watching the fleeing cheetah

 

One of the young males on a stolen giraffe kill

 

 

Coming back to reclaim the kill?

 

Making a funny face

 

The male of the mating pair

 

He is the kali one

 

Relaxed now

 

 

 

 

[Safaridude]

Kwihala Camp is the westernmost in the cluster of three excellent camps located on or near the Mwagusi River (Mwagusi Safari and Nomad Kigelia are the others in the cluster). Impeccably hosted by Tam at the moment, Kwihala operates at the highest standards. Lorenzo, the head guide, exudes passion and drive. Our camp guide Saidi is a son of a former Selous ranger. Having learned his bushcraft while accompanying his father, Saidi is as intuitive as any guide I have had – and as tenacious as a honey badger in his pursuit of game. We learn that Kennedy Koskey, a superb guide we had in Serengeti earlier this year, has been promoted to manage Nomad Kigelia Camp. Though we fail to meet up due to logistical constraints, I am heartened to hear he is excelling.

 

Ruaha is touted as the one place in Africa where one has a chance to view four spectacular antelopes: sable, roan, greater kudu and lesser kudu. Greater kudu is a given. Lesser kudu is a probable. Sable and roan, however, take planning and work. There are basically three excursions from Kwihala, each an all-day affair, if pursuing sable and roan: to Makindi Springs (and the miombo woodland to the north and west of Makindi) in the extreme western corner of the tourist circuit; (2) up the escarpment toward Mpululu, which marks the northern boundary of the park; and (3) east to Lunda. In my previous visit to Ruaha five years ago, we traversed the Makindi/miombo woodland loop for no avail. After consulting with Saidi, we decide to head for Lunda, an area with very few, if any, sable, but with a strong possibility of roan. Of the three said excursions, the Lunda route probably contains the most amount of general game, and the animals are surprisingly tame for an area seldom visited by tourists. The route follows the Ruaha River downstream and has lovely pools filled with hippos and crocs. A wide expanse called the Little Serengeti is on the route and contains Africa’s southernmost population of Grant’s gazelle. Elephant, impala, greater kudu, eland, waterbuck and zebra are seen from there to Lunda. And, oh yeah, lion. Based on his last few trips to Lunda, Saidi is convinced that roan come down from the drab combretum-covered hills to drink at a certain spot near Lunda between 10am and noon. He drives the vehicle up and down a same stretch of the River several times during the hours. The heat haze, sun glare, as well as hope, conspire to make even distant zebras look like roan. But no luck today. No matter, Lunda is fantastic wilderness with lots of game that can be enjoyed in complete privacy.

 

On the way to Lunda

 

And lions of course

 

With lion and cheetah in the bag, Saidi decides that we need to see a leopard. While leopards can be seen anywhere in Ruaha, Saidi is taking us to the Kimilimitonge Hills (spelled at least a hundred different ways, including “Kimirimatonge”). In any case, the Hills, visible from anywhere in the park (and unfortunately, with a conspicuous cell phone tower on top), are where the local Hehe tribe supposedly hid during its insurgency against the Germans. The tongue-twister word translates roughly into “ball of ugali with relish”, and according to legend, the Hehe Chief Mkwawa enjoyed many such meals on those hills during breaks from battle. Mkwawa, by the way, has been immortalized by a waterhole bearing his name in the western corner of the park. Kimilimitonge is thick and thick with leopard. On at least three different occasions, the alarm calls of guinea fowls and baboons indicate leopard, but the thickness of vegetation stymies us. The resolute Saidi finally flushes out a shy sub-adult female leopard in a relatively open area, but the viewing is from afar of a fleeing cat. Saidi is almost apologetic. No worries, mate! I have seen many leopards, but I haven’t seen too many guides as perseverant as you!

 

A view from Kimilimitonge

 

Saidi at work

 

Greater kudu bull at Kimilimitonge

 

Rock formations

 

Tawny eagle

 

Saidi

 

It is worth mentioning that despite the awful poaching statistics in this part of Tanzania, elephants are still a common sight in Ruaha. According to the locals, the explanation may be that even though the elephants have been hit hard in the greater-Ruaha ecosystem, more of the peripheral populations may now be taking refuge inside the park. Whatever the case, the Ruaha elephants still appear to be plentiful and generally tolerant of vehicles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It wouldn’t be right. It would ruin the theme of our 4-night stay at Ruaha if we didn’t run into lions one last time. Our scheduled flight to Katavi is at 7 a.m., and we reach the airstrip before sunup. On my way to a perhaps unnecessary but sensible, precautionary pre-flight visit to the loo located on the other side of the airstrip, the entire sphere begins to reverberate from the roaring of two lions. The airstrip is surrounded by short grassland now illuminated with soft ambient light, screaming for a photo op of two lions roaring with steam-coming-out-of-their-mouths sort of thing. We know exactly where the lions should be, but we can’t make them out. The roaring continues, as if to tease. The pilot is ready now. Disappointing, and it’s time to go. But it wouldn’t be right if Africa gave you everything including the kitchen sink at once, would it? It always leaves you with something to return for.

 

 

Quintessential Ruaha

Edited October 18, 2015 by Safaridude

[Game Warden]

@@Safaridude I hope when you've finished the report you'll be able to write reviews of the properties you stayed in for Safaritalk's new Lodge and Camp Review subforum.

[Bush dog]

@@Safaridude

 

This last picture with the baobab is gorgeous. It looks like a painting. It shows perfectly the transition between light and darkness while including both.

[Zubbie15]

Great trip report @@Safaridude, with awesome pictures. It makes me want to plan another trip to Tanzania, even with one planned for next February.

[Africalover]

You take TR to another level, with your knowledge, narrative skills and fantastic photos.

Edited October 17, 2015 by Africalover

[xelas]

@@Safaridude

 

Your photos are of prime educational stuff. Luckily there are EXIF data intact, so much to learn from ! The light, the composition ... just awesome.

[pault]

Oh you got one of those big hazy suns.Beautiful shot (just needs those lions!), and even more so is the last. I am also taken by lions on brrwn wood - a quite unusual and pleasing combination. Saidi sounds like a good man to have leading your hunt, for leopards or whatever. Shame you didn't see the roan or sable, but the main thing I suppose is that you appear to have had fun looking. Good planning, for sure.

 

You've done Selous and Ruaha proud, and as always there are some juicy nuggets of knowledge in among the smooth prose.

[Safaridude]

I should mention that there is a new camp being built on the route to Lunda. I was very impressed with the scenery and game on that route. It has great potential. Only the last 15 km stretch or so near Lunda did the game appear skittish (not many visitors for now).

[johan db]

Great report and pictures, Safaridude.

[Julian]

Another great write up and photos for the Ruaha section of your trip.

You were lucky to see a cheetah there, no sign of them on our Ruaha visit.

[Safaridude]

@@Julian

 

Apparently, last year was a bonanza for cheetah viewing in Ruaha, with two brothers dominating the scene. This year is a lot quieter with cheetah. Yes, we were very lucky.

[gagan]

@@Safaridude ..as per national geographical society ruaha is considered as lion battle field ..frequent battles of lions and their family is normal occurance and also lion vs buffalo. ..did u see some of them. .???

[AKR1]

Just catching up on this. Another fabulous trip report and superb pictures from @@Safaridude ( if ever there was an appropriate handle this is it). Thanks for taking the time to do this, K.

[Safaridude]

@@gagan

 

Did not see lion vs. buffalo. We did see one big herd of buffalo on the eastern side of Ruaha River (across the river from us) near the Ruaha River's confluence with the Mwagusi River.

[Safaridude]

More photos from Ruaha

 

Sausage for breakfast

 

Downward cat

 

Rearranged by a lion

 

An elephant sundowner

 

Long-crested eagle

 

Distant hills

 

This is a Tanzanian (or Ruaha) red-billed hornbill (Tockus ruahae) endemic to the greater Ruaha region of Tanzania. Note the dark circle around the eye.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Safaridude]

Bush fires in the background

 

Through a baobab

 

Hyena pup at a den

 

A horrible photo of a lesser kudu

 

Hyrax

 

Giraffe

 

Greater kudu browsing

 

"Brother, could you spare a dime?"

 

Feeding time

Edited October 19, 2015 by Safaridude

[SafariChick]

@@Safaridude that baboon shot in post 46 is really cool. And I like your titles in that post - especially downward cat.

Edited October 19, 2015 by SafariChick

[offshorebirder]

Love the "Elephant Sundowner" - especially the double-sun effect.

[Bush dog]

The expression on that baboon's face, telling "take care, this is my sausage and no one will be allowed to even try to take it from me", is fantastic!