Road trip 2015: The Hunt For Red Dune

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie : What about the "Last tree on Mars"? No wonder that Mad Max: Fury Road was filmed in Namibia!

 

Thank you. Tom! Was waiting for your comment, with some trepidation !

 

~ @@xelas

 

No worries, friend.

I'm a toothless old nature lover.

If I could take photo half as striking as your lovely Namibia images, I'd feel like celebrating!

Namibia's landscape is a vision of serenity, with or without wildlife.

The past few days have been full workdays, as is tomorrow morning.

I'm looking forward to enjoying your trip report, post by post, when all is calm.

Thank you for your kind reply.

Tom K.

[Zim Girl]

@@xelas

 

We have also been to Dead Vlei and were lucky enough to have it to ourselves, but I am afraid I wasn't able to capture the beauty and feel of it in anything like the same way that you have.

 

Your pictures of it are outstanding.

[xelas]

@@Zim Girl: you are just too kind to us .... or too harsh to yourself. Yet the most important thing is we have both had an excellent and memorable experience.

[xelas]

@@Tom Kellie: well, I have to admit, we have did our job pretty well, with landscape photos. Not sure that we will pass the wildlife section (Kgalagadi part of TR) with similar results ?! The 300mm f/4 just cannot compete with 400 f/2-8 ; and one day, I wish I could get out there with a guide like Anthony ...

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie: well, I have to admit, we have did our job pretty well, with landscape photos. Not sure that we will pass the wildlife section (Kgalagadi part of TR) with similar results ?! The 300mm f/4 just cannot compete with 400 f/2-8 ; and one day, I wish I could get out there with a guide like Anthony ...

 

~ @@xelas

 

As a long semester is approaching its finale, the workload is intense.

As time permits, more will be posted, including images taken with my EF 300mm f/4L IS.

That's an outstanding lens, as your lovely images show.

I'll certainly pass along your very generous compliment to Anthony and his wife, Maggie.

Thank you so much!

Tom K.

[Peter Connan]

@@xelas,wow!

 

And thank you!

[TonyQ]

@@xelas

Superb images - it is a real pleasure to look at them - and to read the entertaining text. Excellent

 

(do you use a polarising filter for the landscapes?)

[xelas]

@@Tom Kellie: looking forward with anticipation to see what a 300 f/4 can do in a hands of an experienced photographer. The isolation of subjects with 400 f/2.8 was just superb.

 

@@Peter Connan: thank you; I hope one day you can teach me some of your birding secrets (still remembering the "umbrella bird"; is it already on the wall??).

 

@TonyQ: thanks; with the text part, I try not to fall too much behind Zvezda's photos. Yes for most of the landscape photos we have used a C-PL; while it did a great job on 16-85DX (24-125 on D610), we have had some initial problems when using it on 20mm wide prime. Zvezda needed to use it with precision otherwise the sky was too dark, and too unbalanced. Or maybe we need to buy a different C-PL, less "powerful" one.

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie: looking forward with anticipation to see what a 300 f/4 can do in a hands of an experienced photographer. The isolation of subjects with 400 f/2.8 was just superb.

 

~ @@xelas

 

You're far too generous!

For experienced photographers, you need look no farther than @@Peter Connan and @@TonyQ.

Thank you.

Tom K.

[Peter Connan]

@@xelas, you won't believe me, but there is only one photo on my wall tht I took. And it's not that one.

 

But the 300mm f4 is a very nice lens. Most of the photos in our recent Primitive Trail TR where taken with it.

[madaboutcheetah]

@@xelas - brilliant photography!!! Thanks so much for taking the time with this report.

[xelas]

@@Peter Connan: it indeed is a great, and versatile lens. And, you know better then me, the best lens when hiking for multiple days. Great photos; thanks for pointing me to TR

 

@madaboutcheetah: the least I can do, after reading so many fantastic trip reports here, is to add our views, and maybe a lucky photo or two. Kgalagadi was visited entirely because the TR's I have read here.

[xelas]

It was around 11:00 am when we returned to the lodge, picked up our luggage and started our third leg toward Namib Naukluft. First we stopped to refuel, and to buy ice cream (very expensive but such a treat on a hot day).

 

C27 took us first through NamibRand Nature Reserve, with some nice photo opps.

 

Some stretches of this road are very straight, and difficult to keep concentration, and in some parts the road was quite treacherous.

Truth to be told, there is simply no part of Namibia that is not worth at least a couple of landscape photos.

 

 

There were farms along the road,

 

 

I have decided to skip the detour to Duisweb Castle in order to reach famous red dirt road, D707.

 

 

And indeed, this is one great scenic drive! To be completely honest, I have missed the vast expanses of tall dry grass moving in soft breeze, however what we saw was good enough for more stops. There are farms along the both sides of the road, which means that the fence is enclosing it. Sometimes animals were caught on the road; the kudu graciously jumped over the fence to the »proper« side of it, while springboks were running alongside it in a futile attempt to find an opening. It was fun watching them, racing with the car, and making sharp U-turns. Later that day I have learned about »jumpers« and »non-jumpers«. One more lesson which I will not forget, unlike the latin names of those same animals. Springboks were just too fast but a gracious couple of female kudus and a lappet-faced vulture were more obliging subject.

 

Driving on soft sand was fun but one should be very careful and never let the speed to increase over 70 km/h, IMO.

 

Edited June 6, 2015 by xelas

[xelas]

Namtib Desert Lodge / http://www.namtib.net

 

»Welcome to the south of Namibia at Namtib Biosphere Reserve - the Jewel of the Tiras Mountains.« That is the first sentence on its website. And the location of this farm is truly a jewel. Located at the edge of the famous Namib-Naukluft Park, the place ooze with serenity and tranquility. All around are mountains and deep red colour of the soil is balanced by the equally deep blue colour of the sky, with long line of Tirasberge mountains guarding the "no man's territory" between the two.

 

 

From the main road, a narrow 2-tracks trail leads deep inside the valley, again all the way till the foot of the hills, the above mentioned Tirasberge mountains range. Owned by a young family Theile, Lynn and Thorsten offers 5 bungalows, one family room and two single rooms, and also a camping site.

 

There are different activities to chose from, yet we have chosen none … which is the best thing to do after a relatively long drive! So after being warmly welcomed by the house lady, we walked up to the sunset viewpoint, where a fridge with cold drinks was, and just sat there and enjoyed the peacefulnes of the place.

 

Dinner again was a family affair, everyone sitting around the same table, a soup bowl being passed from hand to hand, just like at home. Seated close to the host, it was easy to ask many questions about their daily life. They have a son who has had school holidays which meant he has had to work hard on the farm (the rest of the scool year he spent in a boarding school, which is a norm in Namibia). Also at this farm they have sold out the cattle and replaced it with game. And also here there do not offer game hunting.

 

After another delicious home cooked dinner we have tried to get more useful night sky photos.

 

[michael-ibk]

Wow, this report really makes me want to run out of the house, catch a plane and get to Namibia right now! Just stunning photography.

[xelas]

@michael-bik: Ha, I have had the same feelings when reading your trip reports!!

[xelas]

From Namtib Desert Lodge to Fish River Lodge / 350 kms, 6 hrs 30 min

 

Again, we have lost the »who wakes up first« competition against the sun. Yet after the very long day yesterday (04:00 – 22:00) we have slept like babies. And visiting Namibia in April or May, excellent sleeping conditions are guaranteed. The air is clear, and crisp, almost cool during the nights. Humidity is just right. The night sky is so full of stars. Just perfect.

 

As the longest leg of all was in front of us, we have decided to skip any hiking, and after a slow and tasty breakfast we were ispecting the grounds for a while.

 

 

Then we were »on the road again«. First the narrow sand track with a gentle downward slope, a lot of colour red, same rich colour as we have seen in the afternoon light. But also some green. And that magical deep blue sky …

 

 

D707 awaited us in the same condition as we left her yesterday. Almost void of traffic so we needed to wait some time for the first car to pass by … taking photos of empty roads is easy in Namibia, but to get a photo with a car on it, much more difficult. What a contrast to my home country!

 

 

D707 ends at T-junction with C13, and C13 ends at T-junction with B4. The part of the C13 between those two junctions is not really something to write home about; or taking photos of.

B4 is a major Namibian road artery connecting port town of Luderitz with Keetmashoop, and via B1, with Windhoek. It is a tarred road, and the part we have travelled on, between Aus and Goageb, also in very good condition. In spite of being an important transportation line, the traffic on it was light … for European standards.

 

 

But before driving towards Goageb, and Fish river, we made a slight detour to Aus. My main target was to fill up the tank(s). My second target was to have a nice cup of coffee. As the gas station was »occupied« by many locals and several self-drivers, and our »camel« was still working on the 2nd tank, instead of waisiting time in line we parked under the terrace of Bahnhof Hotel, and to the cup of coffee we added also two great cakes. The hotel did not get his name by chance, as the road is following the train tracks, and the town of Aus was built around the train station, I believe.

[Peter Connan]

Alex, I love the third photo of this last post (green/red/brown/blue)!

[xelas]

Fish River Lodge / http://www2.fishriverlodge.com.na

 

 

There are 3 possible approaches to Fish River Lodge; in our direction they are D459 from Goageb, D462 passing by Alte Kalkofen Lodge, or D463. This latest was signed on excellent and detailed Tracks4Africa road map by our TA Gemma, and the only one having also a signpost for the lodge.

 

While D463 is a white gravel road, standard Namibia one, wide and dusty, once you turn off on non-categorised private road it becomes a totally different affair. It is a rocky one, narrow, passing through several riverbeds, and after the entrance sign for the lodge property, a narrow steep corrugated stretch required engaging a 4x4 mode.

 

 

The good news is that as approaching to the canyon also the landscape becomes more interresting, and wildlife started to show.

 

Pale Chanting Goshawk, juv.

White-backed Mousebird

Equus zebra

Hartmann's Mountain Zebra

 

 

It is 20 km of this approach trail, and though there were some 4x2 SUV cars on the parking lot of the lodge, I would not attempt to drive it in one of those. However, later next day the manager said the recent rain has done serious damage to the road, and that they are in process of repairing the worst parts. So other visitors/drivers might have had a less strenous drive. As for us, we needed 1 hour to negotiate it.

[xelas]

Once arriving at the lodge, a frindly staff awaits you with a cold drink, and of course, the pool with a view. After the pool at Grootberg Lodge, and its view, this was the second most beautiful view in my life!

 

 

The lodge is located on a privately owned property, and has 20 private chalets built on the rim of the second largest canyon in the world. The views are superb even from inside the room.

 

 

The most attractive activity is a multiple days hiking tour inside the canyon. Not being such type of hikers, and above all, staying only one night at FRL, we opted for other 2 options.

 

Zvezda has positioned herself and a tripod on a small terrace in front of our chalet.

 

 

 

 

[TonyQ]

Absolutely beautiful - what a view from your room!

And so much of Namibia looks wonderful. You should work for their tourist department

[xelas]

And me, I have decided for a walking excercise. There are 2 self-guided walking trails, each following the rim of the canyon, left and right of the lodge. Having time for only one I have decided to try and peek into the Fish River itself. That meant walking towards th so-called »Sundowner point«, walking left out of the lodge, and having the canyon on the right hand side. This copy/past from Google Earth shows the trail (in yellow), the right hand side viewing point (y) and the sundowner viewing point (x). You can see better if opening Google Earth or Google Maps and search for Fish River Lodge. The aerial photo does have incredible details!

 

 

It was 16:30 when I left, armed with Sony … and no water. Yeah, even after the near disaster in Costa Rica 2013, I have not learned much. The path was easy to follow, the photo opps plenty, and the topography lures persons like me to »look what is the view behind the next bend«. There is a "theme" in these photo, I hope you will noticed it :

 

 

 

 

So I walk and I walk, and around 17:15 I was close to the sundowner point. There is where I should turn around; but hey, there was a car and people and who would refuse to give a lift to an thirsty old man walking far from the lodge?! Well, while still within visible distance, but not close enough to hear me, the couple decided to have enough of cold bubbles and cool views, and have boarded the lodge vehicle. Hey, folks, look in this direction!!

 

 

Mentally only as I didn't want to disturb the peace of the place. Heck, what, they are not seeing me?! No, they are leaving!! Darn, here goes my free transfer back to the lodge.

Dear legs, please, do your job again, this time a bit faster, please! Hmm, what about a little jogging, old man?! No, better not, just fast walking, OK.

The sun has setting fast and the relativity of the time becomes very obvious to me. At least the terrain was flat, and I could see exactly where to go and where the finish is. The occasional stop to take yet another photo was also a good excuse to rest a while

 

 

 

It was a good excercise, though, after all that hours spent in the car. The blood was circulating faster reaching all the small veins, specially those in my face. Still in shape, I thought, when I have reached the lodge, unsatched and still within time limits set by my wife before giving me green light to walk away on my own. If doing the same walk, and scenery is really breathtaking, allow yourself at least 2 hours, and do bring a couple of bottled water with.

 

[xelas]

@TonyQ: it is a gorgeous country; Namibia. As for working for their tourism dept., the immigration officer was a bit suspicious ... for no reason, but hey, maybe she was a visionary !

[xelas]

Sorry, folks, I just couldn't resist !! Being a writer does have one good side; if the chief editor is busy elsewhere, one can push his photos into the TR, pretending that is only because it has to support the story !! So, the photos are not really up to Zvezdana's criterium yet, ..... So, lets get back to the real stuff.

 

 

After being happily reunited, more after sunset photos were done. The moon started to grow again, and it was too much light from the main building and nearby chalets to try the stars again (and when the lights went off, also myself I was already deep in the Neverland J).

 

[graceland]

Wow, I am still following along with you @@xelas - truly stunning scenery. I would have taken that hike with you; but you would be carrying water if I were along. I don't leave HOME without it!

 

I truly had no idea Namibia was so ruggedly stunning. (is that a word) now that I know you are a writer, I have to watch what I write ( darn). I make up words occasionally. Don't turn me in