Satpura and beyond, March 2015

[TonyQ]

The sloth bear with cubs - lovely. I didn't know they carried them like this. aaaaaw!

(and I am enjoying the rest of the report and pictures)

[Galago]

@elefromoz Judging from the storm you describe I think you were in Satpura just a short while before me because I heard about it from a friend. I stayed at Forsyth Lodge, also very nice. I'm envious of your Sloth Bear pics, mine really are black blobs in the jungle! However, we clearly saw the same female with the same two cubs and, although I couldn't photograph them, I did see them learning to climb a tree - and falling off the trunk!

 

I visited Tadoba (same time as Michael-ibk and Atravelynn!) then Pench, Satpura and Kanha, March/ April this year.

 

Looking forward to hearing more about your trip.

[Tom Kellie]

~@elefromoz:

 

You really hooked me with the sharply clear, atmospheric shots around the camp.

Whatever camera and lens you were using, I liked the results.

The bee-eater...sigh.

What a superb portrait!

Many thanks for such nice images and the interesting commentary.

The lurking mugger crocodile was also a fine photo.

Tom K.

[elefromoz]

@TomK, hello and thanks, every now and again I jag a really good bird photo, and like golf, I cannot repeat the shot. Bird photography is so challenging, but all fun. @@Galago, hello, glad you got to see Mum and cubs too, @@wilddog, hello and thanks for helping me get started here, @@xnegvx, hello, Satpura is 500sqKm, there is a "rest-house", deeper in the Park, Im guessing it's really quiet in there, we never ventured that far.

 

Today was our last day, two drives to find those Leopards.

The Park was beautiful this morning

 

The Jungle residents were getting busy for the day

 

Shikra (male)

 

White Breasted Kingfisher

 

 

A pair of Juvenile Mottled Owls, they did sneak us a lazy peek, then back to sleep

 

Female Sambur and a chilled Langur

 

Satpura looking lovely in the sunshine, and a Bishop Stork nesting in the tree

 

A closer look, loved the nest

 

We ended up here for breakfast, its nice to think this kind of remoteness exists in modern India, in fact its more than that, its downright impressive.

 

So back to the Lodge for lunch and a swim, hard to believe that two days ago it was bucketing down with rain.

And because I believe in seizing opportunities for "firsts"….our first swim in the jungle

Now, about those Leopards

[elefromoz]

When we arrived, we'd heard tales of the two "bold" Leopard boys that frequent the area around the Park entry.They are twin brothers, just shy of two years old, two of three, in a set of triplets. There is a sister too but she and their mother are not so visible. The "bold" comes from them being very visible and and not overly concerned by the Gypsys and their passengers. One is green eyed and one is blue-eyed.

 

Our afternoon drive started with us all searching for an Eagle that had been spotted in the trees. Suddenly someone shouted "Leopard", we all turned the other way to see this Leopard sleeping, out in the open, on an embankment, not far behind us.

We watched him for a while, everyone getting excited each time he moved or opened an eye. Vikram, always in the know, said he wouldn't move until he first yawned, that may be a well known fact, but it was news to me. Anyway, finally thats what happened, bit of a twitch, bit of a stretch, yawn….and he's off and on the move.

 

Now, lets see….

 

 

He moved along, as did the Jeeps, and there he sat at the edge of the long grass, just watching us watch him.

 

 

 

After a bit, he got up and sauntered toward us, walked right passed the first Jeep, casual as you like.

 

 

Soon after, the call, "Leopard", went up again, this time his gorgeous "blue eyed, floppy eared" brother, sitting on the hillside watching us.

 

Almost the same pattern of behaviour, watched us for a while, moved along the embankment, and then sat under a twiggy bush about 4 metres behind us.

 

 

 

He then walked passed the front Jeep, within about an arms length, "bold" indeed.

 

All this had happened over a couple of hours, so it was a very special way to end our time here. And with that we bid farewell to Satpura.

 

 

This has been pretty long-winded for just a couple of days but hopefully has given a bit of an insight into this Park. We "traded" another central Tiger Park for Satpura, for the chance of Sloth Bear and Leopard and for us it was a great trade. Probably the best experience with both species we'll ever have.

 

The "Big Cats" of India haven't let us down yet, brilliant Lion sightings in Gir, now Leopard in Satpura, will Kanha deliver on the Tiger…..

 

[Treepol]

@@elefromoz what a fabulous leopard sighting!

 

I am beginning to regret dropping Satpura from our itinerary, such a scenic park and great wildlife spotting. Oh well, best to save something for next time.

[wilddog]

What a special experience to spend so much time with those two young leopards. You got some wonderful images and as you say, what a way to and the trip to Satpuru.

 

I am currently think of an India trip and your report may well influence my choices.

[TonyQ]

Great leopard sightings. Satpura looks very beautiful and well worth a visit - so I am glad you went there and that you put together such an interesting trip report! Thank you.

[michael-ibk]

Just awesome Leopard sighting. Fantastic!!

[Earthian]

Great sighting and pictures.

[Atravelynn]

Here's the report! The first page of images look great.

Actually Im a female …..obviously haven't ticked some important personal info boxes somewhere.

As females we understand the significance of having some important boxes ticked!

 

 

"One of the couples at the Lodge were lucky enough to see a Sloth Bear outside their room as they waited out the weather." That's what I want, sloth bear room service. And I'd pay at least $50!

 

Though the wheatfields would be even more attractive with a handsome blackbuck in their midst, but I have to say that wheat shot is beautiful.

 

Baby sloth bears! The rain may have cost you one day but it did not prevent this magnificent sighting! Overall, you win, IMO. Your shot of the wet, muddy road through the windshield shows how large the downpour was.

 

Another big win with the leopards. The 2 approaching-staight-on shots and the portrait of "blue eyes" are my favs.

 

Satpura is going to increase in popularity after your report. Thanks for all the info and photos.

Edited May 14, 2015 by Atravelynn

[AKR1]

@@elefromoz

Thanks very much for posting this report that I am really enjoying reading. A great read and just superb leopard shots. I have never seen a blue eyed leopard in Africa. Are they unique to India or was this just some kind of albino gene that changes eye colors as with some domestic cats.?

Edited May 14, 2015 by AKR1

[graceland]

@eliefromoz - just had a lovely read of your trip report. Many great sightings and pictures....LOVED the leopard brothers, sloths and birds as well.

 

Thank you for sharing a special place - I've not been but happily to visit through your words and lens.

[elefromoz]

Hello @@AKR1, Im sorry I can't answer your question about the Leopards blue eyes, in the excitement of the moment I don't always think to ask the intelligent questions! I did, by the way, a couple of years ago when we visited, enjoy spotting your cities beautiful Red Tailed Hawks.

 

 

 

The drive to Kanha took about 8hrs from Satpura. We arrived late afternoon and settled into our “tents”.

 

 

 

I’ll try not to blab too much, Kanha has been covered in most splendid style by Michael, Lynn and Andrew. I will, instead, mostly, let the photos do the talking.

 

 

 

We were at the gate at 5.30 am full of anticipation for this new Park. All the jeeps are lined up,

 

the clocks are counting down……, 0600hrs, up goes the gate, and you’re off.

 

 

 

The morning light is lovely

 

Now as far as luck goes, I guess we were pretty “lucky”. We hadn’t been in the Park for more than an hour and a half when the warning calls went up, and before we knew it we were parked, looking at this with our breath held.

 

A minute later, this

 

Now, Id been dreaming about this moment for a while, and was determined to savour it, my first ever tiger (tigress as it turned out). I just sat and watched her stroll through the bushes toward us, the guide behind me seemed troubled by my apparent “disinterest”. “Photo madam, photo, you very lucky, photo!” he pleaded, you see I hadn’t raised my camera, I wanted to see this without the intrusion of a lens. Luckily our mates were clicking away, hence the photos.

 

And then she was gone...

Now to define “lucky”. Yes we were sooo lucky to see a Tiger on our first drive and within a couple of hours, but…..it was all over too quickly. She emerged from the bushes, walking, but seemed to take fright suddenly, then took off past the vehicles and across the road in front of us before we really knew what was happening. It was all over in a minute, sigh. Its at this point I should add that this was our only sighting in “four and a half” drives. More on the half later. So another trip is already forming in my mind, That dream of seeing a Tiger plonk down into a waterhole still burns strong. “Some others” on this forum were enjoying just that at about the same time not that Im jealous or anything.

 

So, what else did I love about Kanha...

The “welcome Owl” just inside the entrance

 

The lone Dhole that was just sitting beside the track watching the tourists go by and then stop suddenly, he got fed up with all the attention eventually and trotted off. Many questions and no answers, why was he alone, where was the rest of the pack?

 

 

 

The Barasingha, any species that has looked down the barrel to extinction deserves our admiration, as do those that are trying to save them. These handsome deer carry some impressive antlers.

 

 

 

Sloth Bear on a misty morning

 

 

 

Our Kanha guides.

It is hard work guiding/driving in India. In the Serengeti you simply drive along and there’s a herd of Elephant, further along, theres a pride of Lions, further along, theres a Leopard up a tree etc etc. Here the guides have to use all their senses to ensure sightings, alarm calls, roars, pug marks, nasty smells (maybe an old kill nearby) etc etc. They sometimes have to deal with visitors with a, mmmm, delicate tummy. Our “half” game drive happened because I suddenly felt nauseated. We were about 20 mins from the Lodge, I had quietly sat suffering hoping it would go but instead it was getting worse, Eventually my husband told the guides, we just had our Park Guides today, I wasn’t well. Before the words had left his mouth we flying through the jungle, bouncing over hills, sliding around bends, before screeching to a stop in a cloud of dust in front of the “public” toilets. Without wanting to offend, but risking appearing something of a precious princess, we politely asked to continue back to the Lodge, I made it to my room with seconds to spare. Sadly that was to be the last Game Drive, I was very fragile the following morning and heading to Mukki was out of the question. Anyway, enough wallowing in self pity, back to “what I loved in Kanha”.

 

The forests with a floor of golden leaf litter

 

Clean, clear water

 

Morning mist

 

Postcard scenes

 

Muntjac pair, our only sighting

 

The Mongoose, often seen darting across the road and disappearing behind a log or rock.

 

The Jackal family that has denned right beside the road near where all vehicles stopped for meal breaks. A very public place to choose to raise a family. The first day we saw Mum and Dad head out, leaving their pup behind, hidden in the grass.

 

Off goes Dad

 

Followed by Mum

 

While baby stays home

 

A couple of days later we came over the hill to see the two Jackals in pursuit of a Chittal and her fawn. One Jackal stayed in pursuit, whilst the second went off alone and circled around the long way. They managed to separate mother and baby, quickly followed by the terrified death “squeals” of the fawn, and the Jackals with their prize, hunkered down in the grass. Looked like the pup was in for a good feed that night.

 

And a “freckly” Ele

 

We came across the Elephants and their mahouts a few times throughout the Park.

 

And that was the end of our time in Kanha, in fact that was the end of our “safari time” in India. I started this post in Satpura, which was actually mid-trip for us. I’ll be the first person on this forum to post a reverse itinerary trip report, as we actually started out in Gujarat. And from there I will continue.

 

I did manage one quick photo!

[madaboutcheetah]

Wow that Leopard series is a beauty!!! How lucky!

[TonyQ]

I am pleased you got to see the tiger and enjoy the sighting. Good to see the dhole also (when we saw one it was on its own). Lovely pictures of the park and the other wildlife.

[michael-ibk]

That must be the very Owlet we saw, I have almost identical photos of it. Speaking of identical, for a moment I thought you had moved on to Pench, the Tuli Tiger tents there looks absolutely the same.

 

Glad you got to see your tiger but I understand that you need to return for more! Great Dhole sighting, and you were lucky with the Sloth Bear too. And lots of action with the Jackals. You really captured the misty morning moods of Kanah, I loved those as well. A pity you had to cancel your last drives. I hope you recovered soon afterwards.

 

Maybe I am just misremembering, but I thought our guide Rajan told us that Vikram and his guests had seen a tigress with cubs in Kanha. Did Vikram have other guests? (Or maybe I just didn´t understand Rajan correctly, and he was talking about another trip.)

 

Looking forward to the Gujarat!

[Treepol]

@@elefromoz sorry to hear you were so unwell in Kanha, what a shame. Where were you staying?

 

Great leopard photos and I do like the scenery shots, the dappled light through the trees and the jeep crossing the shallow stream. Looking forward to hearing about Gujarat when you have time.

[Atravelynn]

I hope the lone dhole is not lonely long. You did manage a superb shot of him, though. I recognize the welcome owl! Lovely light through the Sal Forest. Muntjac, sloth bear, dhole--despite your downtime due to illness you did very well in Kanha!

Edited May 22, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

That must be the very Owlet we saw, I have almost identical photos of it. Speaking of identical, for a moment I thought you had moved on to Pench, the Tuli Tiger tents there looks absolutely the same. My thoughts as well. Some very lovely digs at both places!

 

Glad you got to see your tiger but I understand that you need to return for more! Great Dhole sighting, and you were lucky with the Sloth Bear too. And lots of action with the Jackals. You really captured the misty morning moods of Kanah, I loved those as well. A pity you had to cancel your last drives. I hope you recovered soon afterwards.

 

Maybe I am just misremembering, but I thought our guide Rajan told us that Vikram and his guests had seen a tigress with cubs in Kanha. Did Vikram have other guests? (Or maybe I just didn´t understand Rajan correctly, and he was talking about another trip.) I misremembered the same thing.

 

Looking forward to the Gujarat! Me too!

[elefromoz]

Hi @@madaboutcheetah, we were very lucky indeed, I now have two portraits of the "boys" on my wall for when I need reminding of the wonders out there.

 

@michael-ibk @Atravelynn, sadly it wasn't us that saw a Tigress and Cubs, we knew they were there, the mahouts had told the Guides they were there, but it wasn't to be. Our friends in the other Jeep had the briefest of sightings of a Tigress and a cub, just seconds, so maybe that was it. Meanwhile I will enjoy your photos and dream, plan….

[Atravelynn]

You are a sloth bear magnet. Kanha too!

 

Funny how awe can be mistaken for disinterest. "Photo, madam, photo."

[Tom Kellie]

~ @@elefromoz

 

May I please ask in what month you visited Satpura?

Was the heavy rain you experienced regarding as being relatively unseasonal by your guides?

Re-reading this trip report underscores what a special experience it was.

Tom K.

[elefromoz]

@@Tom Kellie, we were there in March and the heavy rain was unseasonal. The park actually closing for bad weather was something I hadn't even considered beforehand. After that couple of days, we never saw another drop.

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie, we were there in March and the heavy rain was unseasonal. The park actually closing for bad weather was something I hadn't even considered beforehand. After that couple of days, we never saw another drop.

 

~ @@elefromoz

 

Thank you for that information.

It gives perspective to someone like yours truly who has never been to India, hence has no sense of weather patterns there.

Interesting that the rains were there in force...then departed.

Happy Travels to you in 2016!

Tom K.