Jump to content

Stripes of Wild India


michael-ibk

Recommended Posts

michael-ibk

Kanha 1st Afternoon

Our next flight time was a bit more bearable than the one to Guwahati - we only had to depart for the airport at 05:45. A really incredibly hectic place and security was painfully thorough here - I had to unpack my rucksack, open the camera bag, open the camera and put off my shoes. Clearly picked the wrong lane - I think Lynn didn´t have to do any of that. The Spice Jet flight then (at 07:45) was fine, the weather was good and we could even quite clearly see the Taj Mahal when we were going over Agra. After less than two hours we arrived at Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh were we met Rajan, who would accompany us as our guide for the remainder of the trip.

Very much enjoyed the drive to Kanha once we were out of the city. The state is not as densely populated as other parts of India, and so long stretches of the (very smooth) tarmac road lead through extensive forests. In the more open, cultivated areas Flame-of-the-Forest trees spiced up the landscape´s colour.

gallery_19319_1241_16307568.jpg

We arrived in Kanha at 13:00. Since Rajan had planned for us to go to the park straight away we didn´t drive to our lodge in the South of the park but had lunch at Tuli Tiger Ressort in the North, otherwise we probably wouldn´t have had time to eat and rest for a bit. Also it gave us a chance to see Kisli Zone, because during the next days we would keep to Mukki and Kanha zones.

Vikram, head of Wild World India, had lunch with us, we had a very nice and interesting talk on Indian wildlife options. (And he poisoned my thoughts - that Snow Leopard trip won´t disappear from my brain now... ;))

Vikram was guiding some guests himself, one of which was @@elefromoz . She approached us - turned out she had recognized Lynn from her reports here on Safaritalk and had even used them as a template for this very trip. Another Safaritalk element came into play - Vikram was saying "Hi" to us from @@Treepol . :)

Drive times here were 06:00 to 11:00 and 15:00 to 18:00. No camera fees at all. Since Rajan is working as a park guide in Kanha´s Kisli zone as well we didn´t have a park ranger with us, but after that one would always accompany us in each of Central India´s parks.

Kisli gate:

gallery_19319_1241_7033109.jpg

Looks like a lot, but one of the best things about Kanha is the very extensive road network, and there´s no need to follow a predetermined loop route like in Bandhavgarh, so the cars are dispersing quickly.

gallery_19319_1241_4920763.jpg

Our first sighting, an Indian Scops Owl fighting an itch. :)

The weather was fantastic, and would stay that way for the rest of our trip. Gone was the grey haze of Kaziranga´s floodplains, a crystal clear blue sky was greeting us in Kanha.

gallery_19319_1241_9218688.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_5873589.jpg

Red-Wattled Lapwing


gallery_19319_1241_8366013.jpg

Of course the first mammals we saw were the ubiquitous Spotted Deer, they are legion in India´s Central Parks. But to our surprise a Golden Jackal was in their midst, none species seemed to even acknowledge the other one.

gallery_19319_1241_3681104.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_14316988.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_8167308.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_13316977.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_13241626.jpg

"Chital", how they are commonly called, means - of course! - "Spotted".

Kanha is forest land, either Sal or mixed deciduous. Not overly dense, few bamboo thickets here, no elephant grass on the openings, so visibility is quite good - for an Indian national park.

gallery_19319_1241_9953401.jpg

The park does their best to prevent unwanted fires, so they do controlled burnings of combustible matters in specially created fire-lines and the strips along forest roads. A good side-effect of that is jobs for the local community.

gallery_19319_1241_2553897.jpg

The afternoon was pretty quiet. We saw plenty of the "regulars" - Spotted Deer, Langurs and some Sambar. And a Ruddy Mongoose running over the street and disappearing quickly in the undergrowth, the first of many, many futile and frustrating attempts to snatch a Rikki-Tikki pic.

The main attraction, however, kept elusive, and the meadows were quiet - none of the thrilling alarm-calls which signal the presence of the King of the Jungle were heard.

gallery_19319_1241_7034198.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_19214962.jpg

But we had a very nice sighting of a Gaur, the world´s largest wild bovine. Its height at shoulder is 165 - 180 cm. A full-grown male can weigh about 1000 kg. Females are smaller, about 500-700 kg.

gallery_19319_1241_2186316.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_6188470.jpg

At least we found some "Tiger Birds", the Rufous Treepie. :)

gallery_19319_1241_8664863.jpg

After our game drive Rajan invited us to his house near the gate, and we spent a lovely hour with his wife and children and his nephews and nieces and the neighbours children and nephews and nieces. :) Communicating was not easy given the language barriere, but making funny faces was absolutely sufficent to keep everybody entertained.

We then proceeded to the Southern part of Kanha, through the buffer zone. Since we had to go around the park this was a very long and exhausting drive, and we were still in the open gypsy. The route led through the buffer zone, but mostly through villages, so we didn´t see much - one jackal, and a cat which might or might not have been a jungle cat. After a while it was hard to care anyway, since it became way too cold in the dark and the open car, so we were very relieved when we finally arrived at Chitvan Lodge, our home for the next four nights, at 21:00. A long day, and we all crashed incredibly tired and fell asleep - dreaming of Tigers! And very soon those dreams would become reality. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alexander33

I thoroughly am enjoying this report. From some of the comments above, I thought it was over and found myself a bit sad. Glad there's more coming.

 

As usual, I am thrilled to see the major highlights -- the elephants and rhino sightings have been spectacular. But I truly am intrigued with the more obscure -- the otters, the honey badger (under the circumstances, it almost feels like you discovered a new species), and, wow, those flying foxes! I found myself just staring at those images for some minutes. When I see something like that, it really does make me pause and reflect on what an absolute miracle our planet and its inhabitants are.

 

I so relate to @ michael-ibk's comment that, "We're not here to have fun," because I always have the same sentiment, but, at the same time, it's also layered with @ graceland's approach, in that I know that, no matter what, I always will have great fun indeed (even though there might be individual situations when that doesn't seem like it would be the case)! I never doubted for a minute that the three of you had the time of your lives. I look forward to hearing more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atravelynn

Kanha 1st Afternoon

 

And a Ruddy Mongoose running over the street and disappearing quickly in the undergrowth, the first of many, many futile and frustrating attempts to snatch a Rikki-Tikki pic.

Rikki-Tikki can run but he can't hide forever. We get him eventually though not in Kanha.

 

But we had a very nice sighting of a Gaur, the world´s largest wild bovine. Its height at shoulder is 165 - 180 cm. A full-grown male can weigh about 1000 kg. Females are smaller, about 500-700 kg.

This one would have weighed even more if both horns had been intact.

gallery_108_1256_230014.jpg

 

After our game drive Rajan invited us to his house near the gate, and we spent a lovely hour with his wife and children and his nephews and nieces and the neighbours children and nephews and nieces. :) Communicating was not easy given the language barriere, but making funny faces was absolutely sufficent to keep everybody entertained. High fives are also universal and there were lots of them, along with some delicious tea prepared by Rajan's wife.

 

The route led through the buffer zone, but mostly through villages, so we didn´t see much - one jackal, and a cat which might or might not have been a jungle cat. I had my eyes peeled for that nocturnal pangolin. Maybe like the commonly seen phrase at tiger parks, "You may not have seen the tiger, but it saw you," the pangolin saw us.

 

A sambar deer also saw us as we set off on our first drive in Kanha.

 

gallery_108_1256_155454.jpg

Edited by Atravelynn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atravelynn

I thoroughly am enjoying this report. From some of the comments above, I thought it was over and found myself a bit sad. Glad there's more coming.

 

Thank you Alexander. I was also glad we had 3 more parks after Kaziranga. But our 5 nights in Kaziranga would have been a rewarding, fulfilling trip, if there had been no more.

Edited by Atravelynn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

michael-ibk

I thoroughly am enjoying this report. From some of the comments above, I thought it was over and found myself a bit sad. Glad there's more coming.

 

Far from over - we´re just getting started here. :)

 

As usual, I am thrilled to see the major highlights -- the elephants and rhino sightings have been spectacular. But I truly am intrigued with the more obscure -- the otters, the honey badger (under the circumstances, it almost feels like you discovered a new species), and, wow, those flying foxes! I found myself just staring at those images for some minutes. When I see something like that, it really does make me pause and reflect on what an absolute miracle our planet and its inhabitants are.

 

Really like that comment, quoted for truth!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

michael-ibk

Day 2 at Kanha National Park

Wake-up-call at 05:00, with coffee and cookies brought to our room - nice! It was still pitch black when we went to the car - and cold! Open shoes are not an option in Kanha, one´s toes would freeze off in the morning, we even thankfully accepted the offer of a blanket. No need for it shortly after getting in the park, but especially on the way to the gate (bit more than 10 minutes) this was very welcome.

gallery_19319_1241_600286.jpg

Mists were wafting over Kanha´s waterbodies, I just love the morning mood in this park.

gallery_19319_1241_9310857.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_2590342.jpg

As did this Black Stork enjoying his breakfast - unlike us he had to work for it.

gallery_19319_1241_8493625.jpg

As soon as the sun came out it warmed up very quickly, no need for fleeces anylonger.

gallery_19319_1241_5097055.jpg

Many of the clearings and famous meadows of the park are not natural, they are actually the former sites of villages. The people have been relocated out from the park. No small task, there were still 45 villages in 1973. The open areas were then left for the wild and have turned into the finest habitats for herbivores.

gallery_19319_1241_3815818.jpg

The Chital of course especially, numbering almost 30,000 now.

gallery_19319_1241_4830194.jpg

The Sambar, India´s largest deer, keeps to the trees, however.

gallery_19319_1241_13961133.jpg

This tree had "Tiger" written all over - they prefer these soft-barked-type to sharpen their claws and marking territory. But though its presence was perceptible no Big Cat showed up (for now).

gallery_19319_1241_4415776.jpg

This Common Hawk-Cuckoo was a good example of Rajan´s superb spotting skills, I needed an eternity to find this bird even after he pointed it out to us!

gallery_19319_1241_14286314.jpg

Indian Scops Owl enjoying the warm morning rays.

gallery_19319_1241_60003.jpg

Asian Barred Owlet

gallery_19319_1241_6111599.jpg

I´m not a fan of Pigeon-type-birds (flying rats they are!) but this Spotted Dove sitting in beautiful light was too nice a motif to be overlooked.

gallery_19319_1241_6121466.jpg

THE Indian bird, the peacock. We would often see them display but frustratingly the show was over nearly every time we were ready.

gallery_108_1256_565790.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_3971220.jpg

Indian Roller, one of my favourites - simply stunning little colour wonders.

We drove North and entered Kanha zone, passing one scenic place after the other on the way:

gallery_19319_1241_15129068.jpg

gallery_108_1256_375233.jpg

Indian Flapshell Turtle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

michael-ibk

Some cars were racing towards us, and we were told a Tigress had just been spotted, and they were trying to find her! Damn, missed her! "Will we see a tiger" was domineering my thoughts now, along with "Please please please". But it´s an ordeal with the prime prize of Indian safaris - the hunt for seeing tigers is a bit like the hunt of tigers themselves: You need a lot of patience, success is by no means guaranteed, and more often than not the hunt will fail, leaving you back even more frustrated than before.

So it´s very easy to tell who has seen a Tiger on a drive and who has not. No need to talk at all, the faces make it all clear. The grumpy, corner-of-the-mouths-going-South look are the "No, we haven´t seen a Tiger and I´m sure we never will" type. Then there´s the intensely-probing-your-face, concentrated attention type who quietly, quickly ask with a glimmer of hope in their eyes "Have you seen it?" type, the "No, we haven´t seen a tiger yet but I so hope we will". And then unmistakable, there´s the type with the almost provocative grin (to those who ´ve been unlucky so far), the guests who almost seem to glow with happiness, the "Yes I HAVE SEEN THE TIGER AND IT`S THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ANIMAL IN THE WORLD. I´M SO HAPPY!" type. (Please excuse the shouting, but the thoughts of these unbearably happy people read exactly as loud.)

Tiger safaris, therefore, are a bit of an emotional rollercoaster. It can get a bit frustrating if your heart´s desire is not fulfilled. But ... in the depths of despair one moment, and flying sky high the next - that´s the beauty of it, and that´s how I felt when in the glimpse of a moment we turned into the "I´M SO HAPPY" type.

One of Kanha´s celebrities graced us with her presence, the female tigress Umarpani, almost a regal deity with her ancient 14 years.

gallery_19319_1241_10890406.jpg

For the fourth time in her life she was a mother now, her cubs safely hidden away somewhere, the wobbly state of her belly clearly showed that birth happened not too long ago. We were thrilled with seeing her, even if she gave us the cold shoulder and was only prepared to feature in "Show us your bums".

gallery_19319_1241_8236277.jpg

Not a private sighting, a lot of other cars were there, but our driver Jagu was excellent in getting us into a good spot, and I hardly ever noticed the other cars - my eyes were on HER, and only on her.

gallery_19319_1241_6526510.jpg

One of the select few moments when she showed a bit more of her, but it was very dusty here and straight against the sun. But the secret lurker managed to get one shot of the one and only moment when she looked our way - like this:

gallery_19319_1241_5176580.jpg

With that farewell present of allowing us to make eye contact just once she vanished - and left three very happy Safaritalkers! It just felt so good having seen our first Tiger - it really takes a lot of pressure off. (Yes, we all enjoy and appreciate all aspects of Indian wildlife but let´s be honest here - going to Central India´s parks and NOT seeing one would be utterly devastating.)

What a fantastic animal! Really, one of my main beefs with Kipling´s Jungle Books (which I found a good choice for a re-read during this trip) is how he portrays them. Sher Khan is an absolutely despicable character, cruel, craven and quite stupid. And it´s not only the limping one, Kipling gives Tigers in general an Abel-like role. After all, it was the First Tiger who brought fear into the jungle, because he was the first animal to kill another. And the jungle marked him with his stripes for that crime. So nothing noble about Tigers in the Jungle Books, the dignified strong silent type goes to Leopards with Black Panther Bagheera. So I will come out and say it - Kipling, your Tiger characterization sucks!

(Sorry, needed to vent. :))

Link to comment
Share on other sites

michael-ibk

Soon afterwards we found another mammal Kanha is famous for - the Hard-Ground Barasingha.

gallery_19319_1241_2537970.jpg

This animal has literally been brought back from the brink of extinction, and Kanha is the only place in the world to see it (at least it was until very recently). In 1970 only 66 animals were left in the park. Very hard work of management was fruitful, today the population is somewhat stable with approx. 475 (as of the 2010 census). Still, that´s not much obviously, and the Hard-Ground Barasingha remains highly endangered.

gallery_19319_1241_14522831.jpg

It is a food specialíst, feeds on a few selected grasses, so it´s not easy creating suitable habitats. They are restricted to few pockets of the park and are therefore highly prone to resident predators, and their weak self-preservation instinct does not help. They also have to compete with the ever-rising number of Chitals. The meadows which are so crucial to the Barasingha are man-made and have to be maintained open by man, encroachment by woody tends to reduce the grasslands. Lots of problems - but the park obviously does its best to try to ensure their survival.

gallery_108_1256_684193.jpg

And what a shame it would be to let this magnificent deer fade into extinction.

gallery_19319_1241_5765822.jpg

Very recently about 20 Hard-Ground-Barasingha have been relocated to Satpura. Let´s hope they will be doing alright there, more populations can only help.

gallery_19319_1241_13925380.jpg

Blackbucks in Kanha? That was a surprising sight. But as you can see these animals are in an enclosure. They went extinct in the park years ago, but in 2011 some 50 of them were brought into the park and are waiting to go free again. Don´t know why this is taking so long, and it will be interesting to see how they can fare here - they are grassland´s animals, and those only are a very small percentage of the park.

At about 09:00 we reached the Central breakfast place of Kanha, most cars are meeting here in the morning.

gallery_19319_1241_7191492.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_388266.jpg

As an avid "Lost" fan I was never sure if the number of our car was a good sign. :)

Chitvan´s packed breakfast was super, but the central place has one major disadvantage - because of birds, monkeys and rodents one is not allowed to eat outside, so we had to go inside, in the very crowded canteen. Bit of a shame, we would have preferred to stay outside though I kinda understand the rule.

The way back to Mukki Gate was peaceful and quiet, lots of birds and deer on the way, two Mongoose again (with no photo luck), and we took time to watch some Langur family life.

gallery_19319_1241_15837140.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_60210.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_4054357.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_15247302.jpg

gallery_108_1256_342444.jpg

gallery_108_1256_848820.jpg

Always love the colourful blooms of the trees, in this case the Silk-Cotton-Tree:

gallery_19319_1241_15166797.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_1529502.jpg

The morning ended with one quintessential Kanha view, Barasingha and water. :)

gallery_19319_1241_5802094.jpg

gallery_19319_1241_4687705.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Precisely the way i felt when after three game drives we did not see "anything" (TIGER TIGER TIGER) and when we returned for lunch or dinner, the yakity yak of those who gad made my day sourer,

the next day i made up by thumping my chest and yodelling like Tarzan and it was their turn to be down in dumps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atravelynn

Precisely the way i felt when after three game drives we did not see "anything" (TIGER TIGER TIGER) and when we returned for lunch or dinner, the yakity yak of those who gad made my day sourer,

the next day i made up by thumping my chest and yodelling like Tarzan and it was their turn to be down in dumps.

It's always more fun to be Tarzan!

 

Michael described the demeanor of the guests in the vehicle perfectly, whether graced by a tiger's presence or shunned by the cat.

 

Thank goodness the Secret Lurker was secretly snapping away for our one good shot of Umarpani. And thank goodness we are sharing requested shots with each other. I just now noticed the red spot on Umarpani's eye. Maybe just a scratch. I did not notice it when we saw her.

Edited by Atravelynn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Michael and Lynn

Your pictures and commentary are both superb. Loving this report.

 

Separately, I wanted to direct your attention to a magnificent book on tigers in Ranthambore that came out in 2011 with exceptional tiger photography. The large,limited edition copy I have is highly recommended but difficult to find now.

http://www.sanctuaryasia.com/magazines/cover-story/7528-ranthambhore-the-tigers-realm-by-anjali-and-jaisal-singh-and-priyanka-gandhi-vadra-.html

Edited by AKR1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

madaboutcheetah

You guys bring out the best of Kanha - those beautiful Sal forests in perfect light!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atravelynn

Michael and Lynn

Your pictures and commentary are both superb. Loving this report.

 

Separately, I wanted to direct your attention to a magnificent book on tigers in Ranthambore that came out in 2011 with exceptional tiger photography. The large,limited edition copy I have is highly recommended but difficult to find now.

http://www.sanctuaryasia.com/magazines/cover-story/7528-ranthambhore-the-tigers-realm-by-anjali-and-jaisal-singh-and-priyanka-gandhi-vadra-.html

Thanks AKR1! I found this Q&A exchange regarding the book to be encouraging:

 

Sanctuary: Do you think tourism will ever actually become a conservation tool?

 

JS: We have a brilliant opportunity in India to use tourism as a conservation tool as they have very successfully in Africa. Wildlife tourism in India is in its infancy, centred around only a handful of our many hundred sanctuaries. Forest Departments across India need to work together with responsible tourism operators and embrace them rather than viewing them as ‘the enemy'. If done properly, like it has been done in fragile ecosystems in Kenya – it could well become a primary tool. - See more at: http://www.sanctuaryasia.com/magazines/cover-story/7528-ranthambhore-the-tigers-realm-by-anjali-and-jaisal-singh-and-priyanka-gandhi-vadra-.html#sthash.rTdgV6KB.dpuf

 

 

You guys bring out the best of Kanha - those beautiful Sal forests in perfect light!!!

 

Kanha's best was yet to come for us. You are so right about the beautiful environment, whether forest, ponds, or meadows.

Edited by Atravelynn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

madaboutcheetah

Oh - Totally agree with you .......... Madhya Pradesh infrastructure is fantastic!!! Amongst the best roads in India that I've been - puts Tamil Nadu to shame ........ Driving from Jabalpur to Bandhavgarh was (almost) like driving on a US highway

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@@michael-ibk Kanha is such a beautiful park, I hadn't realised this. Well done on your first tiger sighting - the first of many I hope!

 

I was surprised how well the golden jackal is camouflaged, sort of melts into the leaves and grass.

 

Lovely langur photos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Michael, Lynn and Andrew, Im a bit late coming to this, but thank you, Ive loved your joint report and beautiful photos from Kazaringa. I hope to return to India one day and get up there, (we did suggest to Vikram that he should be paying Lynn a "spotters fee")! I especially liked the final photo of the lone Rhino on the track looking at you. Strength and vulnerability all rolled into one.

 

I can so relate to the "emotional roller-coaster" that is Tiger viewing. Its just soooo hard not to get caught up in it all. Especially, if like me, you've never ever seen a Tiger. Devastating is not a word to be thrown about lightly, but, that would about cover it.

 

I recognize "the Jackal and the Spotted Deer" image, I too, at the time, thought how odd.

 

I was very interested in Indias conservation initiatives, certainly a huge challenge for those responsible.

 

What a lovely Tigress, four sets of cubs, how wonderful, she's certainly earned her stripes :)

thanks again, Eleanor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My goodness this is fantastic. I'm only just now trying to catch up but what a stupendous effort to you all. Kaziranga, a place of dreams since many a long year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Double Dare

These India trips have inspired me to go to India. A long way away, but I think I am going in March of 2017. (2016 is already booked for me.) I contacted WWI and have an itinerary based on this trip. Should be great fun!

 

Thank you @@Atravelynn, @@madaboutcheetah, @@michael-ibk for writing these wonderful reports.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atravelynn

@@michael-ibk Kanha is such a beautiful park, I hadn't realised this. Well done on your first tiger sighting - the first of many I hope!

 

I was surprised how well the golden jackal is camouflaged, sort of melts into the leaves and grass.

 

Lovely langur photos.

I believe you are working on a 6-weeker for India right now. That should be one heckuva trip! It was nice to get your hello message when we were in India.

 

 

 

Hello Michael, Lynn and Andrew, Im a bit late coming to this, but thank you, Ive loved your joint report and beautiful photos from Kazaringa. I hope to return to India one day and get up there, (we did suggest to Vikram that he should be paying Lynn a "spotters fee")! I especially liked the final photo of the lone Rhino on the track looking at you. Strength and vulnerability all rolled into one.

 

I can so relate to the "emotional roller-coaster" that is Tiger viewing. Its just soooo hard not to get caught up in it all. Especially, if like me, you've never ever seen a Tiger. Devastating is not a word to be thrown about lightly, but, that would about cover it.

 

I recognize "the Jackal and the Spotted Deer" image, I too, at the time, thought how odd. Rajan was quite enthused over the oddity and urged us to quickly snap some shots.

 

I was very interested in Indias conservation initiatives, certainly a huge challenge for those responsible.

 

What a lovely Tigress, four sets of cubs, how wonderful, she's certainly earned her stripes :)

thanks again, Eleanor

Nice to meet up with you again, Eleanor! We were kept updated about your trip through Rajan, so I know you had some fantastic sightings that you may want to share in a report of your own. There have been several inquiries about Satpura, where rumor is you were highly successful.

 

 

 

My goodness this is fantastic. I'm only just now trying to catch up but what a stupendous effort to you all. Kaziranga, a place of dreams since many a long year.

I recall we chatted about Kaziranga years back. This "place of dreams" would be worthy of a week's time, making the journey there and back more productive.

 

 

 

These India trips have inspired me to go to India. A long way away, but I think I am going in March of 2017. (2016 is already booked for me.) I contacted WWI and have an itinerary based on this trip. Should be great fun! You have lots to look forward to. I am so glad were able to play a role in your plans. March of 2017 will be here before you know it!

 

Thank you @@Atravelynn, @@madaboutcheetah, @@michael-ibk for writing these wonderful reports.

And though he has only rarely appeared in this report, Super Secret Lurker @@AndMic was the 3rd participant, along with Michael and me, and even came up with the title! He also has contributed many of the photos that have brought mention.

Edited by Atravelynn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Atravelynn

Day 2 at Kanha National Park- the afternoon

 

Our 3 pm to 6 pm afternoon outing in the Mukki section had us playing cat and mouse. In this case we were the cat and the tiger was the mouse that remained elusive.

 

We were told a tiger crossed the road a little ways from us. We pursued that lead only to arrive just after the tiger had crossed the road again and disappeared. We waited and hoped for a third crossing but it did not occur.

 

Fortunately Kanha is not one-trick pony; the scenery and other wildlife always come to the rescue when the main attraction is a no-show.

gallery_19319_1241_6303316.jpg

Mukki Scenery in Kanha

gallery_108_1256_669125.jpg

Mukki Scenery in Kanha

 

A sitting Large Cuckooshrike and a flying Indian Roller lifted our spirits and hopefully helped alleviate that “grumpy, corner-of-the-mouths-going-South look. 'No, we haven´t seen a Tiger and I´m sure we never will' look."

 

gallery_19319_1241_8417575.jpg

 

gallery_108_1256_400863.jpg

Large Cuckooshrike

gallery_19319_1241_2399705.jpggallery_19319_1241_312692.jpg

gallery_108_1256_25642.jpg

Indian Roller

Edited by Atravelynn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

michael-ibk

Precisely the way i felt when after three game drives we did not see "anything" (TIGER TIGER TIGER) and when we returned for lunch or dinner, the yakity yak of those who gad made my day sourer,

the next day i made up by thumping my chest and yodelling like Tarzan and it was their turn to be down in dumps.

 

That must have been a sight so see, Tarzan. Maybe you could upload a presentation of your yodelling, too. ;)

 

Separately, I wanted to direct your attention to a magnificent book on tigers in Ranthambore that came out in 2011 with exceptional tiger photography. The large,limited edition copy I have is highly recommended but difficult to find now.

http://www.sanctuaryasia.com/magazines/cover-story/7528-ranthambhore-the-tigers-realm-by-anjali-and-jaisal-singh-and-priyanka-gandhi-vadra-.html

 

Thanks, the book really looks great, unfortunately it doesn´t seem to be available online. Great commentary on the webpage on Ranhtambore (a park I did not enjoy too much last time but I should probably give it a second chance), and how cool to see a Caracal in India!

 

You guys bring out the best of Kanha - those beautiful Sal forests in perfect light!!!

 

We really were very lucky with the weather - just days ago heavy storms had spoiled safari fun, Kanha was closed for days then because of the heavy rain. Something I really had not considered at all could be happen in March, but obviously it does. But our timing was impeccable - missed the rains in Kaziranga (who started shortly after we were leaving there) and arrived after the rains had stopped in Central India.

 

I was surprised how well the golden jackal is camouflaged, sort of melts into the leaves and grass.

Lovely langur photos.

 

Kanha is such a beautiful park, I hadn't realised this. Well done on your first tiger sighting - the first of many I hope!

 

Yes, many more tigers to come. The langurs are all over the place but still we often stopped for them. Almost all of them seemed to have babies, it´s quite uncanny how human-like they look when they are just weeks old. I do think overall Kanha is the most scenic of the Central India parks I´ve visited (i.e. Bandhavgarh, Ranthambore, Pench, Tadoba), the combination of the beautiful Sal forests, the long-grassed meadows and the picturesque ponds is just wonderful. I especially love when the sunrays are breaking into the forests in the morning - ethereal.

 

This is from November 2012 when the park is much greener of course.

 

gallery_19319_809_1862083.jpg

 

 

Hello Michael, Lynn and Andrew, Im a bit late coming to this, but thank you, Ive loved your joint report and beautiful photos from Kazaringa.

 

Thanks, Eleanor, and I´m really happy you followed suit and presented Satpura here - what a great place, one on the "definitive" list for India next time. I hope you will also show "your" Kanha and the Gujarat in your report?

 

My goodness this is fantastic. I'm only just now trying to catch up but what a stupendous effort to you all. Kaziranga, a place of dreams since many a long year.

 

Thanks, Twaffle! Actually, I think Kaziranga is not that much harder to reach than the other parks. You need a domestic flight and a drive anyway, it´s just a bit longer - but certainly well worth it.

 

 

These India trips have inspired me to go to India. A long way away, but I think I am going in March of 2017. (2016 is already booked for me.) I contacted WWI and have an itinerary based on this trip. Should be great fun!

 

Great, Double Dare, happy our report helped in that decision. Sure you will have a great time, and you are in best hands with Vikram and Abhishek.

 

 

Nice to meet up with you again, Eleanor! We were kept updated about your trip through Rajan, so I know you had some fantastic sightings that you may want to share in a report of your own. There have been several inquiries about Satpura, where rumor is you were highly successful.

Lynn ... psssst .... http://safaritalk.net/uploads/gallery/album_809/gallery_19319_809_1862083.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You really do show Kanha as a beautiful park and you bring back lots of memories (we were there in December 2005 and I still remember how cold it was first thing in the morning!)

 

I don't think I knew that the Barasingha were so rare. They go so well in the landscape - as do the beautiful spotted deer. I also enjoy watching the langur- especially with babies.

 

I am pleased you saw a tiger early in your trip - it does relieve a pressure that you don't know is there. If Umarpani is 14 years old she was probably there when we visited and we may even have seen her! (though none of the tigers we saw were named by our guides)

 

I am really enjoying your joint report.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@atravelynn

beautiful photographs of the india roller. never realised they were so beautiful

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the land of mowgli seems to be more captivating than...kaziranga..I bet..

But the gaur looks like a neel gai...seems to have lost its muscle power...sher khans daring look is a fantastic capture. .

 

Also jungle books mischievous " hanuman langurs " amuses me..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enjoying the Kanha report and great photos. The peacock displaying behind the two Barasingha is a nice touch. We were there after you, in early April, and stayed on the other side so we only visited Mukki once, and that's a long drive. I preferred it to Kisli and Kanha drives but, yes, the breakfast place isn't exactly bucolic! But the Bandar Log are a problem there. Yep, I also re-read Kipling's Jungle Book and he has quite a few inaccuracies. He describes Baloo (the Sloth Bear) as brown, probably related to the fact that Kipling never visited and based his stories on reports from the likes of Forsyth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Safaritalk uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. By using Safaritalk you agree to our use of cookies. If you wish to refuse the setting of cookies you can change settings on your browser to clear and block cookies. However, by doing so, Safaritalk may not work properly and you may not be able to access all areas. If you are happy to accept cookies and haven't adjusted browser settings to refuse cookies, Safaritalk will issue cookies when you log on to our site. Please also take a moment to read the Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy: Terms of Use l Privacy Policy