Manu National Park and Biosphere Reserve in Peru -October

[Atravelynn]

Lodges at HRWC and Manu:

I thought HRWC, Cock of the Rock Lodge, Manu Tented Camp (not a tent, but a solid-walled cabin) and MWC were quite similar and really, really nice—special places to visit. A notch down, but still very good, were Sandoval Lodge near Heath River and Pantiacolla Lodge outside Manu where the wall between the rooms is open at the top so it is more of a group lodging experience. Nice bathrooms for them all. Great food at all. How can such quality cuisine be prepared and served way out here? I always wonder. No electricity inside any of them; candlelight and lighters are used at night. All have very adequate charging stations at the main lodge. All accommodations put you in the midst of these amazing environments with ample amenities so the focus is on enjoying what’s out there. No roughing it.

Manu Tented Camp outside Manu Tented Camp inside

Night Activities: Aside from the hour to/from the tapir lick, I did not do night walks in Manu. Maybe that’s because we spent so much time in the jungle during the day and were up so early. At HRWC and Sandoval Lake, we went out many nights on a walk to look for insects, frogs, etc.

NIce feet. Manu Wildlife Center at night on the way home from the tapir lick

Remoteness: Manu National Park and Biosphere Reserve (IN the reserve, not just in the vicinity of the reserve) offered the most remote spot of anything mentioned here. Staying at Manu Tented Camp at the Aquaje campsite allows days to be spent inside the park boundaries, which is very pristine and secluded and worth all the effort to get there.

 

Manu River

 

It is remote enough that uncontacted people have been spotted along the riverbank where we traveled. I was not fortunate enough to see the people but I saw a one-minute video clip which showed about 4 members of the Mascopiro tribe along the river’s edge. When the water is at its lowest in August they sometimes cross the river on foot. They cannot swim, so they wait for the water level to drop. What was interesting is that they seemed to be bothered a lot by flying insects. I asked about this and remarked that I would think they’d be used to the bugs and pretty much oblivious to them. What I did not know was that they were unfamiliar with the pesky sand flies that live along the water and that were bothering them—and August is the worst month for sandflies. The Mascopiro spend most of their time deep in the jungle where there might by mosquitoes but sand flies are not found.

 

 

On a side note, in 2012 I came to Peru in August and was bitten by a sandfly, I believe as I was taking butterfly photos on the riverbank. After I got home the bite became infected and turned into a staph infection that I unfortunately

gave to my husband. My infection cleared up with one round of doctor prescribed ointment. But my husband’s lingered and required oral antibiotics. Two years later, just before my next trip to Peru, his staph infection re-emerged

(which can happen) and he needed 3 increasingly stronger medications to knock it out. It’s ok now, thank goodness.

Butterflies on mud in the forest, no sand flies present

Along the riverbank, sandlfy country

Back to the Mascopiro—until recently people used to be able to camp along a lake at an alternative campsite to Aquaje where we stayed. But the appearance of the uncontacted people put an end to use of that campsite. One theory as to why these people have been seen is that illegal logging may be pushing them away from areas they had occupied without disturbance.

 

Gracias to…

GreenTracks: I used them in 2012 and was very happy. Report http://safaritalk.net/topic/9397-peru-kaleidoscope-of-colors-amazon-cruise-machu-picchu-jungle-lodges/

Next I used Manu Expeditions. ME excelled in getting us “out there” to maximize wildlife and in providing an outstanding guide, David. (Treepol also had David and I forwarded her hello.) The itinerary we did was even improved over the itinerary on their website for the trip. http://www.manuexpeditions.com/complete-manu-biosphere-reserve-peru.html

 

They take the “expedition” part in Manu Expeditions seriously and gave us every opportunity to enjoy and appreciate what Manu had to offer. No napping at the jungle lodge!

A few little things that added to the trip: Our first meeting together at Cock of the Rock lodge we had mini Pisco Sours, a nice, authentic touch. Our chef prepared many delicious lunches on the boat where the captain just slowed down a little so we could eat, but we did not pull over or stop, so we could cover more ground and improve our timing. One day David forgot his water bottle, and we did not even know it until our morning outing had ended at almost noon. The final day when we had an early afternoon plane to catch, the importance of ME’s outstanding coordination was evident as we made many flawless connections of various modes of transport with drivers/boat captains waiting for every leg of the journey over the course of about 6 hours. Bing, bing, bing and we arrived at the airport about an hour earlier than planned.

How could anything possibly go wrong with Manu Expedition transportation when we were protected by all these items on the rear view mirror?

ME's drivers were also excellent, whether it was the van driver or boat captain. That second motor provided confidence too, should anything go wrong with motor #1. Nothing did.

Manu Expeditions' Comfortable and Versatile Watercraft--spare motor in front, life jackets on the seat. What is not visible are the tasty, chef-prepared meals.

I recalled reading on other travel forums that it was problematic and expensive to add a second macaw visit in Manu (I think the word nightmare was used). Not only was there the additional expense of $305, but the extra visit was on, then off, then finally on again after much pleading, emailing, and phonecalling by me. But all the problems in making the arrangements were forgotten when that first flash of red, blue, and green appeared.

Blanquillo Clay Like - Manu Wildlife Center

Edgar Oblea M, Representative for MPT Empresa de Transportes, booked at Cusco airport kiosk

When booking my air, I had to choose between a layover in Lima or Cusco on the return flight and I chose 5 hours in Cusco. Nothing was planned in advance, but when I arrived in Cusco, I went to the tourist kiosk in the airport to inquire about a guide for a couple of hours. We settled on a visit to San Pedro Market since I had not been there before. It’s about 6 blocks or so from the main Plaza de Armas. Edgar was my taxi guide and he was great. I was more comfortable taking people shots with him accompanying me. Sometimes we’d ask the people if they would like to be photographed for a few sols. Sometimes they’d respond si and other times no.

The outside markets were at least as interesting as the inside ones. Our excursion lasted about 2 hours.

San Pedro Market with Edgar

San Pedro Market with Edgar

San Pedro Market with Edgar Plaza de Armas

San Pedro Market with Edgar

San Pedro Market with Edgar

Cobbling Together 2 Companies & 2 Itineraries

for a Hybrid Solo/Group Trip with a Second Macaw Visit

Because of the bi-weekly Tues/Sat departures (I did Sat) on set dates for InkaNatura’s “Cock of the Rock Manu Cloud Forest” trip and the weekly Monday departures for ME’s “Complete Manu Biosphere Reserve Experience,” it was easy to combine the two trips and extend the Cock of the Rock by one day. I really wanted 3 nights at Cock of the Rock so I needed to modify InkaNatura’s standard 2 nights at the C o R itinerary. Both couples that I traveled with and who spent 1 night at Cock of the Rock Lodge said they wished they had more time there. The final morning of the InkaNatura Saturday departure of the “Cock of the Rock Manu Cloud Forest” trip is the evening that Manu Expedition’s “Complete Manu Biosphere Reserve Experience: arrives at Cock of the Rock Lodge for a one night visit. Combined, that’s 3 nights at this beautiful lodge in a beautiful setting with a beautiful bird spectacle just down the road.

Regarding the second macaw visit at Manu Wildlife Center: I wanted two shots at this unique spectacle and highlight in case the scheduled day to the macaw lick was bad. Well, our scheduled day WAS bad, in fact even a little dangerous to be on the water. So David just swapped our scheduled trip for the next day. (I ended up going later when the weather and water calmed down.) But that is why the macaw lick visit is not done on the final day of a Manu Wildlife Center stay, in case it needs to be pushed back. So you actually do have more than one shot at the macaws, even without the hassle of two trips, as long as the permit for the hide has not been used. If weather turns (or vultures fly or an ocelot stalks or whatever) AFTER arriving at the hide so that you don’t see the macaws, the guide cannot simply call a “Mulligan.” It’s just tough luck in that case because the permit has been used. That’s why 2 visits may still be worth it if the macaws are a big reason for the Manu visit.

The ladies' loo at Boca Manu, entrance to the park was a good place to see interesting butterflies. Walking stick walking upside down at Pantiacolla Lodge Attractive Mushroom

The men's room paled in comparison.

Footwear

Manu Expeditions had a whole PDF devoted to whether clients should bring Wellington type rubber rain boots or not. The conclusion of the PDF was the same as the one I reached after going. You can’t predict the weather--you may or may not need them. Odds go up that you’ll need them in the rainy season, odds go down in the dry season. All staff wore rubber boots just about all of the time. I debated taking my bright yellow Wellingtons but there were specific comments in the ME literature to avoid bright colors. Therefore I am glad I got some army green rubber boots and took those. No one wore bright colored boots.

Note the footwear on Guide David. The brand is Muck Boots, which I'd recommend. Do not note the lack of "stop action" photography.

I needed the boots most at the Cock of the Rock Lodge trails after the landslide-producing storm. I wore them other times but they were not as imperative. They DID protect from biting ants and offered good ankle stability and protection. But they’re hot. I wore them around at home a lot before I left, with my orthotics in them to be sure they were comfortable. The other couple wore regular waterproof leather hiking boots and did fine. I believe the rubber boots could be bought not only in Cusco but at Atalaya before boarding the boat to Manu, but who knows about sizes? I can see how you’d definitely need those rubber boots rather than hiking boots if it was real wet and muddy.

Note the footwear

Weather

Everything from pleasantly cool 68 F to 100 F heat and humidity, bright sun to mist, absolute stillness to winds that posed a danger due to dry branches in the jungle canopy, light drizzle to torrential rains that produced a landslide, perfectly blue skies with puffy clouds to dreary overcast skies. Sometimes several of these occurred in one day. The coldest it ever got was probably 55 F at night. Even on the hottest days, the morning walks until about 8:00 am were cool and refreshing. There were times I was so hot and sweaty, and so were my clothes--and the laundry plan at some spots was to wash clothes in the sink--that I showered with my clothes on and washed them and me together. I think they said Sept is the hottest month. Rain can start in Oct. If I had no constraints on my travel dates, I would have planned to arrive Manu about Sept 26 instead of Oct 4. But who knows? I might have missed the wild guinea pig, baby tapir, tayra, the lucky Cock of the Rock views/shots, the Great Potoo Chick, Agami Heron, and all that otter action.

All kinds of weather

To be continued

Edited January 18, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Bush dog]

Unfortunately, I did only see two agami herons, and still the sightings were not great. One was at Barranco Alto and the other, at Rio Claro.

[Zim Girl]

Brilliant detail in that last post @@Atravelynn

Love the people and market shots in Cusco

[Atravelynn]

I think agami herons are shadow seekers hard to find, @@Bush dog. Our first sighting of it in the morning I don't know how they saw it.

Agami in the shadows This pose is less regal and stately, and tends more to the Barney Fife look, a reference to a 1960s TV sitcom.

 

5 hours is enough time to actually do something in Cusco. I thought it worked well. Thanks @Zim Girl.

[Atravelynn]

Somehow I omitted part of the Gracias to… up above

 

Don't want to leave anybody out.

 

I was impressed with the attentiveness and itinerary options that GreenTracks’ George Ledvina prepared for me, though I ended up booking only 4 nights through him this time. GreenTracks works with the Peruvian company, InkaNatura, among others.

 

I used InkaNatura for Heath River and Sandoval Lake last time (booked through George at GreenTracks) and was very impressed with their guide and properties. This time, I had another great InkaNatura guide, William, for the “Over the Andes to Cock of the Rock Lodge” part of the trip. He extended his services even beyond my written itinerary! I also got to spend time with Fiorina (sp?) an InkaNatura guide who was with another couple in our shared van. The driver was excellent as well and his skills were definitely tested when we had the cloud forest rainstorm that produced cascading waterfalls onto the winding, mountainous roads (and sometimes pouring onto the vehicle), not to mention a landslide that took the road out so the end of our journey was in the dark. So GreenTracks and InkaNatura combined for a wonderful first several days.

 

 

****************************************************************

 

There are no photos of an adapter because Peru uses the same configuration as the US. No adapter needed for plugs used in the US. One more reason for North Americans to visit Peru. Come for the electrical outlets, stay for the macaws! I think Peru's marketers have done a better job with the slogan of "Empire of Hidden Treasures."

 

****************************************************************

 

Delightful Birding Couple #1

Gary and Laura were my travel partners on the InkaNatura part of the trip. They had traveled the world on birding photography ventures but their Ipad they had just four photos--two of each of their pet birds.

 

I asked Gary if he and Linda had become aviphiles together or if their love of birds had helped them make their initial connection. Gary responded that their enthusiasm for winged species had started in their respective childhoods and he recounted this story: “When Laura was a child she lived on a farm with lots of chickens that she would play with. In fact her mother sewed her little outfits so she could dress the chickens. She loved playing dress up with the chickens.”

 

Linda shook her head in dismay and assured me that Gary was concocting stories. “I never dressed up the chickens,” she stated emphatically, “I only tucked them into my doll buggy and took them for rides.”

 

I have a feeling those chickens were fully clothed WHILE being wheeled around, but I’ll never know.

 

What I do know is that I was fortunate to have such enthusiastic birders with me when we stopped at the unobstructed tree limb that was home to a Great Potoo, whose chick had just hatched. Gary and Laura were as thrilled as I was with that unusual sighting and they were content to spend over an hour catching glimpses of the chick. Being the first people to see this chick was a special bonding experience for us all. That baby bird was so adorable we all wanted to dress it up!

First Great Potoo Chick Sighting

2 days later, Great Potoo Chick seeking a little more independence

I was able to observe the Great Potoo chick hours later and then again the next day. The increased level of confidence and curiosity the chick displayed were noticeable, even in that short time. What a privilege!

 

Delightful Birding Couple #2

Karen and Roger were finishing a lengthy Peru odyssey that encompassed many seldom visited archeological sites in the north. It was a first visit for Roger and a return to Peru after several decades for Karen. What a fun couple to spend 9 days with for our Complete Manu Biosphere Reserve Experience. I think Manu Expeditions attracts fun and interesting people who like the outdoors, just by the type of trips the company offers.

 

We even had a “tarantula party” at my house one morning that gave rise to the Quote of the Trip. At Pantiacolla Lodge, there was a short (15 foot) enclosed, raised wooden walkway between the room and the bathroom. I made a predawn loo trip with my flashlight and noticed a tarantula on the ground, under Karen and Roger’s raised walkway, next door to me. The rooms were such that neighbors could easily hear neighbors so I knew they were already up and awake.

Tarantula seen outside before dawn and away from foot traffic in a secluded spot at Pantiacolla Lodge. Flash needed because it was dark.

 

I issued a combined greeting and invitation, “Good Morning, would you like to see a tarantula?” Of course they would like nothing more than to see a tarantula before breakfast. We determined the best viewing angle was through my room from my raised loo walkway. I have never before entertained guests where my hair and teeth were both unbrushed. But those are sometimes the “rules of the jungle,” especially when a tarantula is one of the party-goers. By sunrise the tarantula was gone.

 

Speaking of parties, if you are having any parties that require rubber boots, just so you know I am ready and able to attend. Kindly let me know whether army green or raincoat yellow would be most appropriate.

 

The End

Edited January 20, 2015 by Atravelynn

[TonyQ]

@@Atravelynn

Than you for a really enjoyable report. It has been a long time since we went to Peru (August 2007) so it has been great to revisit part of it through your trip report and photographs. As always you create an excellent mix of inspiration and important practical detail.

[graceland]

The chick is just precious; I too would have stayed for hours watching. And loved the Agami -just striking.

 

Great detail and a most enchanting report - with all the" Lynn" details we expect. I gather there will be a few here making those plans!

 

 

Thanks for sharing; it was terrific.

[ovenbird]

Loved your trip report and pics. That potoo chick is the cutest bird I've ever seen...great captures. Hey, that tarantula looks like the one we found in bed with us on our northern Peru birding tour! Perhaps it was on a tour of tourists!

[SafariChick]

@@Atravelynn loving this report! Have been working on an idea for Peru with the family. Was thinking of not doing the Amazon parts with them but I don't know, it is so tempting. That baby tapir - soooo cute!!! What a great sighting!

[jeremie]

Great post Lynn!

You should next try Madidi!!!

[Atravelynn]

We've been in touch on Madidi before @@jeremie and you have some good info. It is on the list. That would be the lengthy and ever growing list of wonderful places to visit. Thanks again for the recommendation.

 

There's so much in Peru. Hard to know what to do and sad to have to cut out a lot of great places if time is not very, very abundant, @@SafariChick. Your family will have a great time!

 

@@ovenbird, in your bed? What happened next? Maybe that guy was on a Tarantula Tour!

 

Thank you @@graceland. Manu is an enchanting place

 

2007? About time for a return, @@TonyQ. Too many spots to return to and too many new ones to discover.

 

I have been enjoying the LuAnn comic strip about Peru since I have returned, and since Gunther has returned.

Edited January 21, 2015 by Atravelynn

[graceland]

All of Peru is enchanting; I felt something very special while there (when not sick) but Manu is 'specially so. I did not capture the shots you did - perhaps the time of year, (and did not see a tapir - and fortunately not a tarantula!)

so I truly enjoyed reading through your amazing report. Your research did you very well! I need to learn from that, LOL. I wonder if the Peru Tourist Board knows how many Africa Addicts get to South America as well!

 

 

Maybe I can join @@SafariChick as the baggage handler on her Peruvian adventure, when it comes to fruition - before or after her chimpanzee safari

She and I dream alike...

[Livetowander]

@@Atravelynn I've just emailed InkaNatura enquiring about a trip to Peru, and while awaiting a response, I did a search and your trip report came up. I must have channeled you because I e-mailed the same company you used asking about the very trip you describe above. Very eerie as I don't recall seeing your report before now. You answered all my questions including those I didn't even know I had!

[SafariChick]

 

 

You answered all my questions including those I didn't even know I had!

 

@@Livetowander you have identified the essence of an @@Atravelynn trip report By the way, I had just came upon this article about Manu which reminded me that it's on my "some day" list: http://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2016/06/manu-peru-biodiversity-national-parks/ Interesting article, has information on the people that live in Manu which I don't feel like I knew about - it does talk about them hunting in the park for subsistence and taking baby monkeys from the park as pets - but says they release them again when they grow up.

Edited July 30, 2016 by SafariChick

[Livetowander]

Thanks for the link to the article, @@SafariChick. I've made a few visits to Yasuni in the Ecuadorian Amazon, and often wondered about the tribes living in that park. In visiting them, I see that although hunting is an essential part of their lives, there is also an increasing reliance on domesticated livestock (especially chickens) for food. The appeal of baby animals as pets (the equivalent of kittens and puppies), goes with the territory, but it's the scale of the commercial pet trade that is unsustainable.

 

On a different note, I found the map of Amazonian biodiversity intriguing, especially in the Guyanas. I've had my eye on this area for a while, but the tourist infrastructure in these parts is minimal. I would love to see more reports on northern Amazonia.

 

(Hope it's OK to post the map).

 

[Atravelynn]

That is a wonderful article, @@SafariChick. Very thoughtful and enlightening.

 

One suggestion @@Livetowander, that I'd give and that also had been given to me, is to use an intermediary with InkaNatura, rather than booking direct. I believe the pricing is the same for the InkaNatura segments I booked through an agent. InkaNatura posts their modular itinerary pricing. I booked the Manu Expeditions segment directly.

 

Had not noticed the comments from Graceland until now. Brought a smile to my face.

Edited August 10, 2016 by Atravelynn

[Livetowander]

@@Atravelynn, The way things have gone thus far with my enquiry, that sounds like good advice. Thanks.

[xyz99]

@Atravelynn I had seen and read this before, but I re-read it today. We'll be in Manu the last week of Aug, and both your TR were used a lot for planning. We're using GreenTracks too and will have 1 night only (I know, I know) at the Cock of the Rock, 2 at Manu Learning Center Lodge and 4 at Manu Wildlife Center. I'm praying for good weather and good wildlife sightings. And of course, that we stay healthy though the entire trip  

 

Thank you for all the details about tripod/monopod, external flash, rubber boots, etc. They answer all my questions plus some. I am very tempted to only take a gorillapod, one that is sturdy enough to hold my camera + zoom. What are your thoughts on that? I have a Canon 80D + 300 mm zoom lens. 

 

We're going for a total of 2 weeks, with the 1st one in Sacred Valley and MP. This makes packing complicated, as Aug is winter there and it's cold at high altitude. How big was your bag? I would love to pack everything in a carry-on, but I don't think it will be possible. How difficult would be to travel with a regular 24-25 inch bag, considering all the Manu transfers? 

 

I don't remember, did you go to Machu Picchu on your prior trip? Would it make sense to take the zoom lens there? Or just a wide lens? Thanks.

[Atravelynn]

You can see the Cocks of the Rock with one night, @xyz99  You'll definitely have a morning and maybe the eve of arrival.  Do push for two visits if timing permits. I think one visit is often on an itinerary, but since you just minutes by car, it is easy to go twice.  The gorilla pod would work if there are few people in the Cock of the Rock hide.  If there are lots, then you may not be able to set the gorilla pod on the  rail.  But that may just mean a handheld camera which gives the maximum maneuverability, or you can hold the gorilla pod for more stability.

 

Your varied climates will make a carry-on harder to do.  I do recall many places to buy different types of blankets used as wraps for warmth and sweatshirts if you needed them.  Rubber boots alone (and remember, not brightly colored ones!!) can nix the carry-on only plan.

 

I visited Machu Picchu and Sacred on a previous trip that did not include Manu. In fact, it was Aug that I went to MP, like you.  The whole trip in Aug had great weather.  That trip did include jungle time after MP and Sacred City, so packing concerns are similar.   I had a checked bag in addition to my carry-on.  The 300 would be used in the Sacred Valley mainly for birds and for the llamas that roam around MP.  Otherwise wide angle is ok.  I just checked my llamas at MP and birds at lodgings in Sacred Valley.  All photos were never more than 100 mm.

 

Have a fabulous trip to this marvelous country with such diverse destinations!

 

 

 

[kitefarrago]

Maybe these posts should go to a trip planning thread. I was in south-western Peru last summer, from late July into August, and like you plan to, there was the Sacred Valley and other areas in the Andes, plus time in the Manu.

 

I do think that carry-on will be hard to manage given that you also have photo gear, et cetera. We had good weather with just some drizzle and, in the Manu, some heavy showers at night. You'll definitely want a fleece and a waterproof jacket, but I think that should be sufficient unless you have plans to go really high in the Andes (we spent some time above 4000m looking for various birds), or unless you're one of those people who is always cold.

 

Birding groups spend several nights at Cock-of-the-Rock lodge because it's a convenient base when it comes to looking for bird in the medium altitude zone, but if your main purpose is to go to the lek then one night is indeed sufficient. It was very dark there last year (overcast day) and my photos didn't come out too well. We went one latish afternoon, so maybe it's better earlier in the day.

 

Andrea

[xyz99]

@Atravelynn Yes, we'll hopefully have an afternoon/evening and a morning visit at Cock of the Rock, so that will have to do. I was hoping for more birding in the area, but Manu Learning Center is only about 1 1/2 hr away, so maybe not too different habitat? We did not fit in the regular schedule of any of the Manu trips, so we'll have a private guide for the 7 days there. This means we can arrange our time as we want, more or less. We were told that lodges would provide rubber boots if needed, so no need to worry about them. 

Good to hear about the good Aug weather, hopefully we'll have the same. And I think I'll carry my zoom up to MP, you always need one when you don't have one, right? 

 

@kitefarrago You convinced me, the carry-on only does not sound feasible. 

I think our highest point will be Cusco for 1 night only, and we'll pack accordingly. Thank you both for responding; yes, maybe this should've been a separate planning post...

[Atravelynn]

Nice to have the flexibility of a private guide, @xyz99.  Are there 2 of you going to Machu Picchu?  That will make carrying camera gear easier.

 

Heavy showers at night are preferable to rains that caused mudslides wiping out a road in Manu, @kitefarrago, but that was October.

[xyz99]

@Atravelynn Yes, it will be 2 of us on this trip so we'll divide the load. It's getting closer