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Botswana July/August 2014


JerseyGirl

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Since arriving home from our trip from Africa things at home have been a little hectic. The day after we got home, we got a puppy! (At least we had something to look forward to going back home) :rolleyes:

“We” are Lorain, mom (Jerseygirl) and Erin, daughter (badmedicine), traveling out of the country for the first time together. We started our planning in spring of 2013 and found SafariTalk through our research. We would like to start off by thanking everyone on here for posting about their trips and giving advice to the newbies!

Our first trip to Africa turned out to be AMAZING!

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Itinerary:

July 26, 2014, flight from JFK to JNB

connecting flight to Kasane.

3 nights at The Old House

3 nights in Nxai Pan National Park

1 night Mankwe Lodge

2 nights at Okavango Delta

3 nights at Khwai River

Flight from Maun to JNB

1 night in Johannesburg

Flight home August 9.

The 15 hours on the plane wasn’t as horrible as we anticipated. Even though we were stuck in the middle of a row of four, we were in the fire exit aisle, which means plenty of extra leg room ;) We put our feet up on our book bags and anticipated our trip ahead.

We were nervous arriving at JNB with a connecting flight soon after landing. However, we got lucky with a porter coming to our aide, and running us and our luggage through the airport. Bypassing long lines, we made our connecting flight on time!

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We didn’t have the same good luck at Kasane airport, as the line to get our passports stamped took over an hour with only two people working there.

We were met at the airport by Sox. Unfortunately we missed the afternoon game drive since we still had to check in and Sox left for the drive right when we arrived to The Old House.

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So we settled in, got something to eat, and watched our first African sunset from the dock overlooking the Chobe River.

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July 28

We were on the road at 6am heading to Chobe National Park for our very first game drive. Sox was our guide and it was just us and a young couple from Maryland on the drive.

After entering the park we were greeted by a beautiful herd of about 25 elephants. They crossed the road in front of us and circled back, single file, across the road behind us. To our disappointment, it was too dark for any of our photos to come out well.

The game drive lasted just over three hours. Little did we know that herd of elephants was going to be the best sighting we had all morning; aside from impala and baboons. Every other animal we spotted was far off in the distance.

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On our way back, Sox took a detour to show us the Baobab tree at Kasane’s police station that was used as a prison cell many, many years ago. Very interesting to see!

After the morning drive, we went to go charge our camera batteries, and realized that NONE of the (package of 5 different) adapters we brought were going to fit the outlets (even though the packaging had Africa listed). We decided to take the 15 minute walk into town to find one. Many stores later, and some help from a very nice local business owner, we got the correct adapter!!

By the time we got back to The Old House, it was already time for our afternoon boat cruise on the Chobe River.

Terry was our guide this time and the same couple that was with on the game drive was also with us. We were happy they were interested in the same animals as us. Since our group was not large, Terry took the small boat out which allowed us to get up closer to the animals in the marshy areas.

Our main focus was elephants, so we were thrilled to see them in many locations along the river; some just eating grass by themselves, and others in large groups playing and rolling around in the mud on the river bank.

Also seen on the three hour boat cruise:

cape buffalos

nile crocodiles

hippos

monitor lizard

a lone water buck

many species of birds.

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Terry our boat guide

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Both the morning game drive and the afternoon boat cruise were great, but we enjoyed the boat cruise a little more since we got up close views of the animals.

We had a nice dinner at The Old House and arranged to go to Victoria Falls the next day. Still feeling the jet lag, we fell asleep quite early.

July 29.

We woke up well rested and ready to go. A driver picked us up and we were on the road by 8 am. When we hit the Botswana/Zimbabwe border, we had to wait in a 40 minute que to get our visas for the day. This where we got passed off to a second driver, who at the last minute, passed us off to a third driver since the second one had to wait for other people having trouble getting through immigration. It was just the two of us and our driver on the long road to Victoria Falls.

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He asked if we wanted to do any activities available near the falls, and we decided to go on the elephant ride. So our third driver brought us to the elephant place to make arrangements, however they could not accommodate us in the time we needed. The driver then called his friend to take us to a different elephant place nearby, so now we were on to our fourth driver.

Our guides and the elephant ride was fantastic! They were very informative about the elephants and some local culture on the 45 minute ride.

Afterwards, we were able to feed the elephants some treats, and were surprised they had a lunch waiting for us. We ate, chatted for a little while, and headed to Victoria Falls with our fifth driver.

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Victoria Falls was beautiful! We took some photos of the Falls and all the monkeys, but after walking around for a while Erin started feeling queasy. :wacko: Thankfully our driver was picking us up soon, so Erin waited in front of the entrance while Lorain went across the street for some small souvenirs.

Our (sixth) driver picked us up and we headed back towards Botswana and Erin was feeling much worse. At the border, I (Erin) felt like I had to vomit and rushed to the bathrooms, only to find them out of order (both women and mens). I went behind some bushes by myself and was face to face with a warthog while getting sick! At the time, I didn’t know if they were aggressive or not, so it was a little nerve wracking! But he wound up just running away after staring at me for a minute or two! Haha! :lol:

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Unfortunately, Erin was still very sick even after laying down for a while back at The Old House. She got sick many times and we were both getting nervous since we had a seven hour drive the next day to meet our guides to start our mobile safari! We had no idea what Erin was sick from, so Lorain talked to the manager to see where there was a doctor available. The manager offered to drive us to Kasane hospital to see what they thought. Well that was an experience in itself…completely different from the hospitals back at home!! The nurse told us it was probably malaria, but we refused to believe that since we were taking anti-malaria pills and had not been bit at all! She gave Erin a shot to stop the vomiting and a few anti-diarrhea pills. As soon as we got back to The Old House, Erin got sick a few more times and slept the rest of the night.

July 30.

We woke up super early to pack our belongings. Erin was still feeling nauseous, but able to function. Our driver picked us up at 8am and stopped at one other location to pick up a family of five. With seven people and all of our luggage, the van was very crowded on our long ride to Nxai Pan.

As we approached the park entrance, we saw Nick and Ewan standing there waiting for us next to their land rovers. Erin was finally feeling better, and we were both excited to start our mobile safari! :D

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Nick Langton was our guide, and Ewan Masson was the guide for the family of five. Even though we had separate guides, we shared the same camp.

Nick took us on a short game drive on our way to camp.

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We spotted: (not including birds)

Steenbok

Ostrich

Oryx

Giraffe

Springbok

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Steenbok
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When we arrived at camp, we were shown to our tent and got settled in, feeling very excited and anxious as this is our first time camping ever! The vegetarian meal the camp staff made for us was superb! We sat around the fire getting to know each other after dinner and Nick pointed out a few constellations and the Milky Way in the clear and beautiful sky. We’ve never seen so many bright stars!

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We didn’t sleep much our first night…just listened and waited for some animal calls. But no major animal sounds, just some owls and other birds. Finally drifted off to sleep around 4am and had a nice 1.5 hours of sleep before waking up to Ewan saying “Knock, knock! Morning, morning!” outside of our tent.

Still in the process of writing the rest of our trip report…more to come soon!

Edited by JerseyGirl
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How Exciting Jersey Girl. I remember your planning and anxiety - as all first timers go through..and now you are a pro :)

 

Isn't the first safari ever so exciting!!!

 

You look thrilled in every pic, and they are delightful; I cannot wait for more. The mobile camp looks divine.

 

And you do know, puppy or not, you will be planning a return :D

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@@JerseyGirl sorry to hear @@badmedicine was ill at the start of your safari. Hope things improved for her healthwise.

 

 

What a busy start you had, Vic Falls, ele rides and a sunset cruise. I'm looking forward to your Masson Safaris report as I'm just back from my third trip with Ewan. We visited Nxai Pan with him in 2008 so look forward to your sightings there.

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I was seriously doubting my mental health now, since I was quite sure I had already posted here. But all is well, I´m not crazy - you just "did it again." :)

 

Great start with lovely pics, looking forward to hearing about your adventures!

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@JerseyGirl: I am glad that you had a great time at The Old House in Kasane (I remember you posting on my TR and mentioning that you were going there). I am also glad that you liked Sox, who we considered not a very good guide. Terry was great, though... Looking forward to seeing the rest of the report...

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A safari with Ewan! This can only be good.

Eagerly waiting for more posts!

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Sorry to hear about the illness, a reaction maybe to the medication? But I guess things get better from here, judging by your enthusiasm.

 

Matt

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hope erin got better soon in Nxai, it's not fun to be sick while on holiday.

 

It sounds like a great trip so far and your report reflects the excellent fun that you both had! looking forward to the camping experience with Ewan

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How Exciting Jersey Girl. I remember your planning and anxiety - as all first timers go through..and now you are a pro :)

 

Isn't the first safari ever so exciting!!!

 

You look thrilled in every pic, and they are delightful; I cannot wait for more. The mobile camp looks divine.

 

And you do know, puppy or not, you will be planning a return :D

@@graceland, Yes we will be planning a return trip to Africa...we knew we had to go back even before our trip was over with. :rolleyes: LOL!!! Once isn't enough!! We did have an amazing time!!

 

@JerseyGirl: I am glad that you had a great time at The Old House in Kasane (I remember you posting on my TR and mentioning that you were going there). I am also glad that you liked Sox, who we considered not a very good guide. Terry was great, though... Looking forward to seeing the rest of the report...

@@FlyTraveler...when I read your trip report about The Old House, it lessened my anxiety about staying there...( Didn't really know what to expect as it was very cheap compared to the other places to stay in Kasane) We did the morning game drive with Sox...It was my daughter and I and another couple. We thought he was fine as a guide and informative about the birds and animals we seen, it was just that on that particular morning aside from the herd of elephants there wasn't much animal activity going on.

 

Sorry to hear about the illness, a reaction maybe to the medication? But I guess things get better from here, judging by your enthusiasm.

 

Matt

@Matt, We don't think it was due to the medication...it was more like she picked up a virus from the plane .... thinking that because 2 days after she was ill, I got a little sick for just a day while in Nxai Pan.

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I was seriously doubting my mental health now, since I was quite sure I had already posted here. But all is well, I´m not crazy - you just "did it again." :)

 

Great start with lovely pics, looking forward to hearing about your adventures!

@@michael-ibk, Your mental health is fine... we just re-posted because our pics wouldn't show up in our original post.

In the other post you asked which Elephant ride place we had gone to- It was called "The Elephant Experience".

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Looks like a great itinerary and the pictures so far are lovely. While sicking up by a warthog may have been terrible at the time, I think it will be quite an anecdote in the future! On the topic of being sick, taking doxycycline for malaria prevention tends to make me very nauseous IF I have not eaten anything first. But whatever the cause, I am glad to hear it was sorted, and it looks like an amazing time awaits.

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Both of you look so happy in all the photos, it is lovely to see your smiles. Me too, looking forward to reading all about the mobile. Great start to the report, though no fun being sick :(

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NXAI PAN



July 31


We woke up a little tired but Erin was finally feeling 100% better :) . While we were eating a quick breakfast, Ewan pointed over to the camp staff area where a jackal was searching for food. It was a very chilly morning since we were on the road before the sun was up. There were no animals around yet. We watched the sunrise and drove around for a while, then Erin spotted two bat-eared foxes! They were very close to the side of the road when we pulled up, but moved along quickly. Took some pictures of them, but they blended into the grass so well that the shots didn’t come out great.



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The clouds in Nxai Pan were magnificent!!




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Massive baobab tree





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Two bat-eared foxes (poor quality <_< )



We were very eager to see some elephants since there was so much dung around while driving. We patiently waited at the only water hole in Nxai Pan to see some animals. Our patience paid off as it started to warm up. A large group of male and female Kudus came for a drink. On the morning game drive we also saw:


Ostriches


Zebra (6)


Giraffes


Springbok


Lilac Breasted Roller


Kori Busterds


Secretary Bird


Atlanta Falcon


Blacksmith Pluvers


Yellow Bill Hornbill



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Lilac Breasted Roller




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Male Kudu with springbok




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We headed back to camp for our siesta. Our delicious lunch consisted of: salad, vegetarian italian sausage, potato salad, corn fritters and fresh baked bread. We used the rest of our afternoon to check out the camp site, relax and write in our journals.



We were back on the road around 4pm, still hoping for some elephant sitings. For much of the afternoon drive, we saw the same animals that were seen in the morning along with:


red crested korhaan,


a swallow tail bee eater


and a herd of wildebeest in the distance.



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We went back to the watering hole for our last stop of the day. We waited and waited until we finally saw three male elephants on their way to get a refreshing drink. What a spectacular sighting to end a great safari day!! We watched the sun set as we made our way back to camp. We timed how long the sun took to set- from when the bottom of the sun hit the horizon until it was completely gone…2 minutes and 35 seconds! Faster than we would have guessed!




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August 1


Knock, Knock, morning, morning- Ewans wake up call for us….the night was very cold, but we slept great on our cozy cots with warm blankets. We washed up with the hot water the camp staff provided for us in the wash basins each morning. We bundled up and got ready to leave when Lorain’s stomach started hurting. :wacko:


To be on the safe side, she took Immodium right away and hoped for the best.



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A frigid morning!




We saw one giraffe not too far from camp, but that was the only sighting for a while.


After driving Nxai Pan’s trails for about an hour, my stomach was starting to churn. I knew the Immodium wasn't working. I told Nick I wasn't feeling well, and he simply replied “just go to the bathroom in the bush!” and handed me a roll of toilet paper. I was embarrassed, but you gotta do what you gotta do. I wasn't going to let a little diarrhea ruin my safari!!! ^_^



We drove to the watering hole for a break to have some tea and cookies, and watched a lone jackal scavenge for food there. Lorain took some Pepto Bismol hoping that would calm her stomach as we drove around some more. We saw a pair of bat-eared foxes in the same area that we saw them yesterday, but they camouflaged so well in the grass, the pictures still weren't great.


Since not much was going on, and Lorain’s stomach wasn't getting any better, we decided to head back to camp a little early. On our way back, Nick radioed ahead to the staff and asked them to make some plain white rice. After eating some rice, I just slept on and off until our evening game drive.


Erin wrote in her journal, took some photos of the camp and ate lunch with everyone else.


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Bucket shower




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Erin woke me up to see if i was going on the evening game drive and I said “Of course!” Popped some more Pepto Bismol and we were on our way.


Spotted on the evening game drive:


Elephants


Kudu


Ostrich


Oryx


Giraffes


and many birds.



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Oryx



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Back to camp…I was feeling terrible. Ewan asked if I wanted Sallie (his wife) to phone the doctor in Maun, since we were driving through there tomorrow. I told him “no thank you, let’s see how I feel in the morning.” I was hoping that this was just going to be the same 24 hour virus that Erin had. I skipped dinner and drank some sparkling water, and some regular water with a packet of electrolytes in it.


I fell asleep quite early, while Erin enjoyed dinner and sat around the campfire chatting with everyone.






August 2


Early morning wake up since we were moving on to the next camp. Thankfully feeling much better today, although not quite 100%. Didn't drink any coffee, just some water and bowl of oatmeal for breakfast. I really think that pack of electrolytes worked!


We packed our bags and loaded the truck. Nick took us on one last short game drive on our way out of the park. A few vultures near the road had us on alert. Erin really wanted to see a cheetah but was disappointed we had not seen one. We slowly made our way along the trail with our eyes peeled and finally Erin spotted three figures in the distance to our left. We grabbed our binoculars and were excited to see a mother cheetah with her two babies!! They were way too far to take any pictures, but we were still thrilled nonetheless. A great way to end our stay at Nxai Pan!



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Map of Nxai Pan






Up next: one night Mankwe Lodge and 2 nights Okavango Delta.



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  • 1 month later...

@@penolva

 

Glad you found this and asked....For some reason I don't get notifications so just try to check in...and by doing that I've have missed many an update!

Hopefully @@JerseyGirl will see we are asking for more!

 

I've been ill for many a day now and need my tr's to remember when I felt better, LOL!

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Great to hear about your trip. I missed this one befoire.

 

Eeek... what a terrible welcome to Africa -but at least you didn't both go down at the same time. Hopefully now you can both start enjoying the trip without concerns about the pit stops!

NONE of the (package of 5 different) adapters we brought were going to fit the outlets (even though the packaging had Africa listed

Note to self: If Africa is listed as a country on packaging, avoid this product!! :lol:

 

 

@@badmedicine is a selfie expert. It is a skill I have not mastered. I always hold the camera too high or too low, or too wonky.

Edited by pault
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@@penolva

 

Glad you found this and asked....For some reason I don't get notifications so just try to check in...and by doing that I've have missed many an update!

Hopefully @@JerseyGirl will see we are asking for more!

 

I've been ill for many a day now and need my tr's to remember when I felt better, LOL!

Get well soon @@graceland :( I will be posting my book of this years trip to Kruger and the Kgalagadi soon, its taking ages to sort out all the photographs. Take care Pen

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WOW! We didn't realize how much time has passed since our last post...life kind of got in the way!! :rolleyes:

When we made our last posts, we were actually looking into going on another safari in a year or so...but Erin and her fiancee found out they are expecting a baby...YAAAY I'm going to be a Grandma! But that means I won't have my safari partner for another few years!!(although I am still trying to persuade my Husband to go)

 

Next segment of our trip is coming up shortly! We got together yesterday and started writing again. Thanks for giving us the little push we needed to start writing again! :)

 

 

 

 

@@graceland sorry to hear you haven't been feeling well...hope you start to feel better soon!!

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As we made our way to Mankwe Lodge, we saw about a bunch of vultures flying around near the side of the road. Ewan’s truck was ahead of ours and he pulled over to check it out. We followed…the vultures were tearing up the back end of a freshly dead zebra, that either died of natural causes or was hit by a car and went into the bush to die.

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We stopped for lunch along a river (not sure which one) and had a picnic.

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Our next stop before reaching Mankwe was Maun, to fuel up the vehicles and get supplies from Sallie (Nick’s daughter/ Ewan’s wife). They loaded up the trucks with food and drinks and we were on our way again.

Nick wanted to reactivate his bird calling app, which required wifi access. We stopped at a restaurant and got to Facetime our significant others at home. Even though we only got to speak for a minute or two each, it was still nice to see them and let them know we were having an amazing time!!

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(the restaurant we stopped at)

At last we reached the lodge, which was in the middle of no where deep in the woods.

We were in desperate need of showers, so the staff filled the water tank for us. Lorain went first, so the water was still chilly as it wasn't fully heated yet, but still nice. We were surprised that the water was very salty (not sure why?).

We had to drive to the main lodge for dinner, which was served at a very long table with a few different groups of people (about 20 in total). They served corn soup, dinner rolls, porridge, salad and a spicy veggie combo.

After dinner, we all gather on the outdoor deck around the fire and the camp staff performed four beautiful song/dance routines, which we really enjoyed!!

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Erin and I slept on the first floor, and the door flaps had no zippers, so we were nervous that animals could just walk in while we were sleeping….

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HAHA :lol:

August 3

Woke up around 5am to rummaging sounds in the kitchen area, it was just Ewan heating water and getting things set up for breakfast.

In the middle of the night, Erin heard branches breaking and thought there were elephants near by, but it turned out to be Nick making a fire because he couldn't sleep. The fire was huge and the flames nearly reached the second floor! Ewan joked around saying that they were going to charge him for a years worth of fire wood!

We packed up the trucks and were leaving around 6:30am. Both our truck and Ewan’s truck were backing up at the same time and wound up backing into each other! Nick was yelling for Ewan to stop, but couldn't hear him! It was quite comical, nothing like a little jolt in the morning to wake you up!

On our way to the campsite in the Okavango Delta, we only saw a few old male cape buffalo. When we arrived in the afternoon, the strong sun made the moths and gnats swarm like crazy, especially near the tents. It was imperative to keep the tent closed at all times, as a few bugs got in just in the short time of us entering the tent. We were in very close proximity to the water and can hear many hippos calling and many birds chirping. Got settled in and washed up before our evening game drive.

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The evening game drive was very enjoyable!

We spotted:

Wildebeest

Zebra

Starling

Coucal

Jackal

Red Lechwe

Baboons

Great White Egret

Hippos

Elephants

Jacana

Pied Kingfisher

Tree Squirrels

White Faced Duck

Sacred Ibis

Spur Wing Goose

Blacksmith Pluver

Long Toe Pluver (Lapwing)

Franklin

Giraffe

Tsessebe

Red/Orange/Black Billed Hornbills

Impala

Guinea Fowl

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Hornbill

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Red Lechwe

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Impala

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Hornbill in flight

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This old male giraffe was kind enough to pose for a few selfies with us!!!

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Coucal

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Up next: Our second day at Okavango Delta...a very eventful one!!! :D

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Thanks for re-starting. Off to an obviously great time having Nick and Ewan try out fire skills and driving mistakes! Enjoy seeing pics of the two of you ; you all look excited and happy, as should be on a first safari!

 

Looking forward to your adventures.

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What a terrific mother-daughter safari. Sorry about the illnesses, but glad you overcame them. And you overcame the adapter problem. Lucky you discovered it when there was a business owner around to help and not way out in the bush. You'll have photos to discuss and good times to recall for years to come.

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A nocturnal Nick. Not quite as romantic as elephants. Hope he got his afternoon nap next day! :D

 

And congratulations to @@badmedicine and Grandma. No wonder you didn't post.

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Glad to see this one continue! Looks like this was quite a lot of fun.

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  • 2 weeks later...

August 4

Despite all the bird calls, frogs and hippo snorts right outside our tent, we had a very restful sleep. We found the animal calls throughout the night soothing.
Feeling refreshed when we woke up, we had a quick breakfast and were on the road before the first hints of day light.

The first sighting of the morning was a Saddle Billed Stork, however, it was too dark to take a good photo. After driving for a bit, Erin excitedly pointed out ears peaking out from the top of the grass. Nick turned off the engine and a hyena finally emerged from the tall grass! It was our first hyena sighting and we were thrilled!!! He slowly crossed the trail right in front of our vehicle and continued on his way.

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We passed a large herd of elephants in the distance and also some wildebeest, zebra and impala when Ewan radioed to us that they spotted a pride of Lion. We quickly met up with their truck and observed 5 females and 2 teenage males relaxing in the grass after a meal. Their chins and chests were tinted red from blood and one of the females tossed around an antler.

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It was turning out to be a fabulous morning- seeing two new animals we haven't seen yet! We watched the lions for quite a while and then left with Ewan’s group to have some tea and cookies.


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1361_zps6894849d.jpgOur wonderful guide, Nick Langton

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1340_zps184dcdd1.jpgTea, coffee and delicious oatie cookies made by Sallie Masson

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Continuing on…

We came across a large group of elephants on our right hand side, crossing the trail to the our left hand side. Nick stopped the truck and turned off the engine to watch them. One male elephant still on the right was beginning to look very agitated that we were there. He kept shaking his head at us and stomping his massive foot. He moved around to the front of our truck , now facing us, he then stomped his foot again and trumpeted extremely loud. Erin was still calm, but I was terrified and kept trying to tell Nick to get out of there!! Thinking back on it now, there was really no place to go, as we were surrounded by the herd at this point, and the bull was directly in front of us! Nick did not look worried at all, he did not think the elephant was serious about charging us since he did not tuck in his ears and fold his trunk, which was a sign of a true charge. I was pretty much crouching down in the last row of seats in the vehicle when he finally moved to our left hand side with the rest of the herd. My adrenaline was pumping and I told Nick let’s get out of here while there was a clear path for us to leave.

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Agitated to our right...

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Finally moved to the left and cleared the way...

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Goodbye angry old bull!



After that exciting episode of our safari, we came across a group of wild dog pups- about 5 or 6 of them. We were captivated observing the pups running and playing with each other without any adult supervision around!

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The adult wild dogs were just up the road lounging in the grass, minding their own business until a herd a wildebeest approached and did not like where they were laying.

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One of the wild dogs got up, and the wildebeest started chasing him!!


1445_zps634540c0.jpg(note the wild dog to the left of the wildebeest)



As if that wasn't exciting enough (to see another animal we haven’t seen before, and some action between the wild dog and wildebeest); a herd of zebra come strolling up, just as the wild dogs were getting settled again. Apparently they felt the same way as the wildebeest did and wanted the wild dogs to move.
One zebra decided to take action and approach and chase the dogs as the others were behind him.

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The wild dogs decided to move from their resting area after that fiasco and head back up to check on the pups near their den, before making their way to the watering hole for a refreshing drink as the late-morning sun was starting to heat up the day.

 

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We stayed and watched the wild dogs for quite some time, but before heading back to camp for siesta, Nick wanted to show us Third Bridge since it was a short distance away.

Erin thought it was fun crossing Third Bridge, which was a little rickety and half under water; I, however, was a little more nervous…I thought the truck was going to start filling up with water! We made it across the first time safely and turned directly around to go back; but this time, some logs were out of place from our previous crossing, and Nick stopped the truck halfway across and starts fixing the misplaced logs! Didn’t even take off his shoes! HAHA!

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Back to camp for some lunch, rest, shower and journal writing after an adventurous morning!

 

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