Brazil 2014: Pantanal Wonderland

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

Thank you - Marmosets are very difficult and a longer lens would certainly be useful! We found it fascinating that the Snail Kite appears to go to the same spot each time to eat! We saw Troupial a number of times, but could never get very close.

 

We liked Pouso Alegre!

[TonyQ]

Our Final Afternoon

 

At around 3.30 we set off with Julinho towards the Tapir hide. He thought that as it was hot and sunny, there was a good chance that a Tapir would turn up to cool off in the water.

Another section of the main track

 

After about 15 minutes along the main track, we approached the bridge over a pool- Julinho stopped suddenly – “look – get out quickly and approach slowly!)

 

A Tapir in the water

 

We approached slowly while wanting to move quickly!

 

We stood and watched – enchanted.

After a few minutes, another car stopped behind ours and 2 tourists got out to enjoy the sighting. (We later learned that Julinho, hearing them coming, had signalled to them to stop and get out). They stayed well behind us so it seemed like we had the Tapir to ourselves.

 

The Tapir is bigger than we expected, but it was so graceful in the water. Sometimes it swam – using its “trunk” a bit like a snorkel; where the water was shallower it walked.

After about 15 minutes it moved to the side of the pool,

 

walked out gracefully still,

 

and away.

[TonyQ]

We could hardly believe what we had seen, we were excited – but it was much more than that – it all felt wonderful.

 

We noticed Julinho had got his camera out and had taken some pictures – he was also excited by the sighting. The driver of the other vehicle and the other two tourists thanked Julino for stopping them and drawing their attention to the Tapir. (@@jeremie - the lodge was good for Tapirs for us)

 

Still buzzing, we got back into the vehicle. We said to Julinho that we thought we didn’t to go on to the Tapir hide – not because we wouldn’t like to see another Tapir, but because the viewing we just had was so perfect. I think he was a bit disappointed, but we started to continue along the main track heading towards the Trans Pantanal Highway.

Brocket Deer

 

After some time on the main track, Julinho asked us if we would like a cold beer? There was a bar on the highway not far from the gate to our access road. We could then spotlight on the way back. We thought this was a great idea – we would buy him a beer to celebrate. (Slightly embarrassed, we realised we didn’t have any money on us, so be borrowed some from Julinho to buy him a beer).

 

As Julinho was closing the access gate, MrsQ spotted

Coati

Julinho jumped in the car and we followed it along the highway – he said if we stopped or tried to get out, it would run away, so we stayed in the car, engine running.

This was our first close view of a Coati, so another little treat on our last afternoon.

 

We travelled along the highway for a short distance and then stoppped at the bar

 

Julinho’s Car

Road sign

 

We enjoyed a cold beer with popular Brazilian snack (a fried cheese pastry - much nicer than it sounds!). Some visitors came to watch us.

 

Purplish Jay

Chaco Chachalaca

As we chatted, Julinho talked about being patient with nature – if you are patient, nature will come to you. He said that have seen a lot because we were both very patient. (But he hasn’t seen MrsQ driving in Birmingham traffic!)

 

We get back into the car and spotlight on the access road back towards the lodge. We see brocket deer, crab-eating fox, coati and as we approach the pools we see lots of Capybara sitting on the road. They totally ignore the car – we have to go really slowly to encourage them to grudgingly move aside.

 

As we got back to the lodge we talked about a wonderful afternoon crowning a wonderful trip. We would go back to our room and continue packing for our journey home.

Edited October 31, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

In the middle of packing, we hear tapping at the door – it is Julinho – “come quickly there is anteater in the lodge grounds”. Shoes on-rush out.

 

 

There it is, wandering around, completely unconcerned by the 6 or 7 tourists looking at it. Some have torches – again it is not bothered, it snuffles about looking for food. It heads towards one tourist – Julinho says “stand still” – it brushes past.

 

(this one taken with flash)

 

It was quite small, so probably relatively young. Julinho said it is the same one we saw on the night drive last night. We let it wander off into the bushes on its own. What a great additional treat! As we wandered past the main lodge building, the group of photographers sat reviewing their photographs - missing it all.

 

I think this time it really was the end of the viewing for the day!

Edited October 31, 2014 by TonyQ

[Atdahl]

Wow, what a great way to end your trip. A once in a lifetime Tapir experience followed up by the close encounter with the Anteater.

 

I have truly enjoyed reading your report Tony. Makes me feel like we were there.

 

How was your over all experience with Julinho? It sounds like it was great. We had tentatively booked with him but he had to cancel. While he was very good returning emails I was slightly concerned by having to pay by wiring all the money in advance to a Brazil bank.

 

Anyway, loved the report. Thanks so much for providing great details and awesome pictures!

 

Alan

[Treepol]

@@TonyQ what a magical tapir experience, how fortunate that you were in the right place at the right time. The giant antater around the lodge was also a bit special, how ironic that the photographers were too engaged with their cameas to join the experience!

[michael-ibk]

Wow, pure magic. You had many terrific sightings, but this one must have been such a highlight for you. What an incredible last day!

[TonyQ]

@@Atdahl

Thank you for your kind comments. Having a private guide suited us well - Julinho is hard working and knowledgeable. We paid 50% in advance - we did feel slightly nervous about this but we knew that others on Safaritalk had used him. (It was still a relief when he turned up )

@@Treepol

Watching the Tapir was very special - and timing was very lucky

@@michael-ibk

Thank you - it was a great last afternoon!

[TonyQ]

Reflections on Pouso Alegre

 

The room was fairly basic, but comfortable. Food was fine and plentiful; the dining room could be crowded. A number of groups use the lodge. We were there to look for wildlife in the grounds – and we loved this aspect of the lodge. The grounds were extensive and when we were out walking (or driving) it never felt like there were lots of tourists there. We would see more people in garden around the lodge but this was not a problem.

[TonyQ]

Pouso Alegre - Cuiaba

 

We set off early. Julinho said we must treat our last drive like our first – keep our eyes open and always be willing to stop. So we drove slowly along the access road towards the Trans Pantanal Highway.

Bare-faced Curassow

 

We also drove along some smaller tracks that ran roughly parallel to the main track

 

Looking towards the main track as it crosses a bridge – a cow keeps an eye on us

A small group of Capybara by the pool

We kept thinking - these might be our last Capybara….(or whatever creature we were watching)

 

Agouti

Brocket Deer

[TonyQ]

We then joined the Highway, but still kept looking at the pools and the fields as we drove along

 

Capybara

Roseate Spoonbill

Rhea with babies

 

We were excited to see the Rhea with 15 babies. Apparently the male mates with a number of females and they all lay their eggs in one nest. They then leave the male to bring up the babies. So here he is looking after 15 of them!

 

As we pulled away from watching the Rhea, a long, low very dark mammal rushed across the road in front of us into the undergrowth - we were able to watch it briefly in the vegetation before it disappeared. It was a Tayra (I am not claiming we identified this!) – a mustelid – a weasel-like animal. (Wow)

[TonyQ]

We continued

Watch out for Caiman crossing

 

Some of the pools had large numbers of Caiman basking in the sun

 

Wood Stork

At the end of the Pantanal , the road began to head uphill and becomes much redder, and the vegetation became much drier. Eventually the surface was tarmacked – but there were still things to see

Cattle Drive (taken through windscreen!)

[TonyQ]

We travelled through Pocone and on to Cuiaba, and we said our farewells and gave our thanks to Julinho at the airport. (He was beginning another trip later that day!).

 

Cuiaba airport is fine. Practical Tip – Check your bags in and then go upstairs for café/restaurants. Once you go through security, nothing is available.

 

Sept 10 Fly from Cuiaba to Sao Paulo (TAM) – flight fine

o/n Marriott (Airport) – expensive but convenient and good (free shuttle to and from the airport)

Sept 11 Fly overnight to Heathrow (BA)

 

Final Thoughts

It was a Pantanal Wonderland.

 

Barranco Alto in the south is a superb lodge and we loved our time there. We hoped to see Giant Anteaters – and our hopes were surpassed. I also loved the Tamandua and the Armadillo that we met.

 

In the north we had our own hard working knowledgeable private guide for all activities (Julinho) and this worked well for us, giving us the freedom and flexibility that we wanted (so we could watch e.g. Capybara for half an hour if we wanted).

 

I think most of the lodges offer activities (walks/drives/boat trips) but I cannot comment on those as we didn’t use them.

 

We really enjoyed Rio Claro - access to the river and a very enjoyable walk in the woods. Hotel Porto Jofre was a very good Hotel – our time on the river gave us exciting Jaguar sightings but also so much more (including the Giant Otter family). Pouso Alegre was very enjoyable and offered different environments to the other two (and we had our Tapir!). (Originally we were thinking of combining Araras Eco Lodge with Pouso Alegre, but Julinho suggested that using Rio Claro would give more variety).

 

 

Thank you all for reading, and the “likes” and comments have been much appreciated - they were very encouraging along the way.

 

The Pantanal is well worth a visit.

Edited November 3, 2014 by TonyQ

[michael-ibk]

Thank you, Tony, it was wonderful re-visiting the Pantanal via your report. You really had terrific sightings, Jaguar, Puma, Giant Otters, Armadillo, Tapir, Giant Anteater, Tamandua - just wow! I almost was expecting Maned Wolf and Bush Dogs to appear in this report.

 

And, dare I say it - you´ve become quite the birder, the Pantanal seems to do that to all of us.

 

So, again, thank you for the work you´ve put into this, I enjoyed it tremendously, and the little details you were providing will be very helpful for a Pantanal return trip - Barranco Alto will definitely be in any itinerary!

 

So, what next for you?

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

Thank you - I am glad you enjoyed the report - thank you for following it. We did enjoy the birds on this trip - and I got into photographing them more than I ever have done before (big, colourful, close!) We did see well over 100 species, almost all of which were new to us. (Serious birders will see many more - a couple at Barranco Alto had a "target" of 200 species)

 

I am sure you would enjoy Baranco Alto.

 

Our next trip is to Borneo in April 2015- and we are thinking about Kenya for 2016 (Jan/Feb) though we have not got down to any planning for that yet!

Edited November 3, 2014 by TonyQ

[Alexander33]

@@TonyQ

 

Thank you for this wonderful trip report. You had so many great sightings, I feel I almost need to go back and re-read everything. Having just returned last month from my first trip to South America (Peru), you have really inspired me to consider the Pantanal as our next South American destination. Thanks again for taking the time and trouble to prepare this report.

[Zim Girl]

@@TonyQ

 

This has been a very enjoyable Pantanal report. Lots of detail, great photos and definitely one to go back and re-read.

[xelas]

@@TonyQ

And a big Thank You also from my side. I have enjoyed it very much, great details and great photos. I hope one day I could post a similar one.

[TonyQ]

@@Alexander33

Thank you - I think it is a great destination

@@Zim Girl

Thank you for reading and for your positive comments

@@xelas

I have enjoyed your reports and look forward to more!

[Sverker]

Thank you for an excellent report. Interesting stories, great pictures ...

 

Photography

 

You have a zoom ending at 300 mm - did you wish to have a 400, 500 or 600 mm or were the animals so easy to come close that this was not needed?

 

Do you use a teleconverter?

 

(I am planning to buy a DSLR with a long tele … )

 

 

Language

 

How is the knowledge of english generally?

 

Among the guides?

 

Do you speak portuguese?

 

(Suppose I should refresh my portuguese when I go there sometime in the near future)

 

Thanks again for a great trip report.

[TonyQ]

@@Sverker

Thank you for your kind comments

 

Photography

Yes my lens is 70-300mm (on a cropped sensor). I don't have a teleconverter.

 

Do you need a longer lens? It depends what sort of pictures you take.

At Barranco Alto it was only occasionally that I thought a longer lens would be helpful (but I tend to concentrate on what I can do rather than what I can't.)

The Giant Anteater shots were taken between 110mm and 300mm - we did get very close to them, getting out of the vehicle and walking to them. On the river we got very close to birds (closer than I ever have before!). Some of the Capybara portrait (head and shouldrs) were taken at 200mm. When we were in a canoe I don't think I could have managed a lens that was much bigger.

 

However, if you look at the report by @@Bush dog you wil see what an excellent photographer can do with a longer lens.

 

In the north, the picture was more mixed. We did quite a bit of walking, and although a 400mm lens probably would have been helpful on occasions, I don't think I would like to carry bigger than that. Monkeys were probably the most difficult - a long lens would certainly be helpful, but you also need to be mobile to keep up with them. (My monkey pictures are generally cropped) Around the lodges, small birds were very approachable - in some of the other areas they were less so - a long lens would give you better pictures of those.

 

When looking for jaguars, on the first 2 days we saw them we sat in the same place for a long time. 400mm would have been helpful (some of my pictures are cropped to about that size). A lot of photographers had much longer lenses on tripods. When we saw the Jaguar that went into the water and onto the beach, some of those are taken at 110mm (to have the full animal with a bit of environment) - the close ups are at 300mm.

 

I think you take video - so of course you cannot crop.

 

I have never ued a lens longer than 300mm, but I am sure 400mm would be useful. I would have found a longer lens too difficult but many people use them successfully.

 

Language

In Barranco Alto, excellent English was widely spoken

 

In the north we had our own guide who had excellent English - we didn't use the lodge guides so cannot comment - though I think most would have English speaking guides. English didn't seem common amongs other lodge staff, or indeed around the country. We made an attempt to learn some Brazilian Portuguese (slightly different to that in Portugal) but not successfully. I certainly think it would be good to learn some or refesh it if you already have it. I think if self driving it would be essential.

[Sverker]

Thanks for very thorough answer.

 

Yes, i am a videographer but thinking of a DSLR with video capabilities. In fact a 300 mm is the most likely new lens. My Sony EX1 is a big camera and has a resolution of 1080x1920, so stills from it is not that great. Maybe I get a more versatile equipment with a DSLR (Full format) with a 24-130mm zoom and a 300mm?

 

It is always difficult to choose between the light stuff and the heavy stuff. I also have a heavy tripod which is necessary for good video.

 

Anyway, you prove that it is possible to such great pictures with a moderately long telephoto lens as long as the animals are cooperative.

[Bush dog]

@@TonyQ

 

Just back from the wilderness. Thank you for defending so well those magnificent wild places. I particularly appreciate your full of pertinence general thoughts.

[Atravelynn]

Wonderful shots on page 8. You found the well camouflaged potoo!

 

How long did you wait for the tapir? You must have been thrilled when it appeared.

 

Then the swimming tapir! When your guide whips out the camera, you know it is something very special.

 

I had to laugh when you realized you had no money for your tapir celebration drink.

 

Did I understand the coati joined you at the bar? It appears he is as close as the next barstool.

 

I agree with @@michael-ibk on how tricky marmosets are to photograph, but you got him.

 

"Wonderland" indeed! And your excellent photos prove it!

Edited November 16, 2014 by Atravelynn

[graceland]

@@TonyQ, spent some quality time catching up with your wonderful adventure. Finding the tapir must have been the highlight, although the birds you photographed were all stunning.

 

As much as we love South America, the Pantanel has not been on the radar. Must remember your guide, the lodging; take notes and put it on the list.

 

The stories along with the photos are as enjoyable. Thank you for all the detail and notes on lodges, roads, (remember to bring cash for beer!) and all those little things one would want to know!

I can imagine you did not want this one to end!

Edited November 16, 2014 by graceland