Brazil 2014: Pantanal Wonderland

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

Thank you – we spoke to someone who had seen the one-eyed Jaguar a year ago so you may well have seen the same one. Thanks for the bird information – I wasn’t sure about Boat-billed Flycatcher as none of my photos show its beak clearly enough (it was always open). But I am learning!

 

@@Atravelynn

Thank you – I put the first shot in to try to communicate some of the reality. He appears to survive with one eye - maybe his food is easy to catch?

 

And we were pleased to see a wild guinea pig as well!

 

@@Bush dog

The guarantee offers free days if a Jaguar is not seen I believe. I think it is not a helpful development!

 

I understand why, after lots of visits, you stick to the south – but I still think the north has a lot to offer as well. I think a number of the lodges are finding a way to make ranching work alongside wildlife – and in many of the activities we did we saw no (or hardly any) other tourists. It is not a pristine environment, it is not a wilderness but it is a good destination (in my opinion)

 

@@Treepol

Thank you – I think it is helpful if companies offer this broader view – and I am sure Naturetrek would have a clientele that could appreciate that. I do realise that companies have to market trips and grab people’s imagination - but they can make a wider range of animals achieve this. I think people that go need to spread the word of the diversity (as you did!) and in the planning and when there make guides aware that we have wider interests.

 

@@Alexander33

Thank you – I think it is a great destination. There is a lot to enjoy!

 

@@Sangeeta

Thank you for your kind comments.

 

I hope that river trips are not seen as failures if a Jaguar is not seen – it is a beautiful environment with much to see and enjoy. (When we went to India national parks, we certainly enjoyed seeing Tigers, but also loved seeing the environment and the other wildlife

 

Re: estimates of Jaguar numbers – I think these are fairly vague.

 

The document from ICUN:

http://www.catsg.org/catnews/03_specialissue/jaguar-nap-brazil/Cavalcanti_et_al_2012_The_status_of_the_jaguar_in_the_Pantanal.pdf

 

- suggests Jaguars have 88200 sq km of range in the Pantanal, with a suggestion of a density of about 6-7 per 100 sq km (giving between 125-150 Jaguars in the Pantanal). However, the area where they can be regularly seen is much smaller than this.

 

The document also discusses the threat of de-forestation, and about the potential positive impact of private reserves – and I think some of the lodges contribute to this.

 

@@graceland

Thank you – the Jaguar Jungle china sounds great – I am glad you are enjoying the report!

 

@@Atdahl

Thank you for your kind comments and I am glad you are enjoying it – and you never know, the chance to go may arrive in the future.

Edited October 23, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

In search of the Pootoo and along the HIghway

 

In the morning we drove a short distance up the highway and turned off onto a track. We then did walks in two woods. In the first we saw Pale crested woodpecker, butterflies, fungus, kapok trees, hyacinth macaws and

 

Lineated Woodpecker

Black-crowned Tityra (we also saw the female)

 

Ant nest

A short drive took us to an abandoned environmental education centre. Our reason for visiting here was to find the Great Pootoo. We were lucky to see two individuals

We spotted this one (well MrsQ did!)

Great Pootoo looking like a tree (Julinho spotted this one)

 

We had lunch at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve. This lodge was fine for a one night visit – food was simple but OK, bed was a bit uncomfortable. The place seemed a bit tired; we were the only guests staying.

 

Other birds we saw around the area included

Savannah Hawk

 

Jabiru

Grey-breasted Martin (?)

[TonyQ]

After lunch we headed along the highway towards Pouso Alegre, enjoying wildlife along the way

 

A distant Scarlet Headed Blackbird

Jabiru shading nest

Great Black Hawk

 

Jabiru and Chicks

 

The light was fading fast as we saw

Deer (Marsh?)

 

We arrived at the entrance to Pouso Alegre as it got dark. The access road to the lodge is 7km long – Julinho described it as the worst road in the world. While this description may contain a bit of poetic licence, it certainly was a rough track.

 

Julinho spotlighted as we went along - we saw capybara and a Brocket Deer. Dinner, a cold beer and an early night were all very welcome!.

[Zim Girl]

@@TonyQ

 

That 2nd Pootoo picture looks like a wood sculpture that has been carved from the tree itself, amazing!

Edited October 23, 2014 by Zim Girl

[lmSA84]

@@tony

 

These photos are exceptional. Do you mind if I enquire what len(s) and body you use?

 

With regards to the last photo, I think it is actually a small family of Marsh deer. We were fortunate enough to see a male Pampas Deer from the Transpantaneria (~110km counting from Pocone) and the nature of the horns is quite different. They are thicker, shaped like a bowl and have a thin fur.

 

I'll be very interested to read about your experiences at Pouse Alegre we stayed there shortly before you.

[michael-ibk]

Congrats to Mrs.Q on spotting the Pootoo. Sharp eyes there! (Our guide needed a lot of patience with me when he was trying to show me where it was... )

 

Definitely Marsh Deer, I agree. Very much looking forward to see what Pousada Allegre had in store for you.

[TonyQ]

@@Zim Girl

Thank you

@@lmSA84

Thankn you for your kind words. The camera is a Canon 550D and the lens for almost everything is a Canon 70-300IS (not the L version). Thanks for the deer information. I will be interested to hear what you thought about Pouso Alegre

@@michael-ibk

Thanks for deer confirmation. Our guide had to be very patient with me as I am hopeless at spotting things!

Edited October 25, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

Exploring the Grounds of Pouso Alegre

 

We were spending 3 nights at Pouso Alegre, so would have two full days.

 

During the last couple of days, the weather had become much hotter, so Julinho suggested that we get up at 5am, have a quick breakfast and get out walking while it was still cool.

 

The lodge has extensive grounds covering a range of habitats, including woodland, meadows, shallow pools, and some marshy areas.

 

We headed over some grassland bordered by woods and soon came across

 

Capuchin monkey hanging around

 

Looking thoughtful

 

As we were standing watching, a Marsh Deer stag came through a gap in the trees and walked towards us.

 

 

We stood as quietly as we could and it just carried on and walked straight past us appearing to be completely unconcerned.

 

[TonyQ]

As it walked past us we saw some Marmosets in the trees behind it

 

Marmoset

 

Showing how long its tail is in relation to its body size

 

We carried on walking into more open ground

Southern Lapwing

 

And were surprised to see

Red Freshwater Crab (so now we know what the Fox and the Racoon eat!)

[TonyQ]

Pouso Alegre is still a working farm

 

We walked through a variety of landscapes, seeing (amongst others)

Green-barred Woodpecker

Long-tailed Ground Dove

 

Rufescent Tiger Heron

[TonyQ]

Black Vulture

 

enjoying the sun

 

Shells (probably dropped here by a Snail Kite)

Yellow-bellied Elaenia (?)

We headed back to the lodge and got there at about about 9.00. It had certainly been worth getting up early. MrsQ and I will then spend some time looking around the area close to the lodge.

Edited October 25, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

Tegu

Yellow-billed Cardinal

Silver-beaked Tanager

View back towards our room

The room was basic but fine. The shady veranda was very welcome. The lodge has added about 5 new rooms which look smaller (from the outside) and didn't have a veranda.

Edited October 27, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

A Hyacinth Macaw looks out at us

 

And a second one looks out as well - it is always a pleasure to see them interacting with each other

 

Rufous Hornero looks out of its very distinctive nest - often built in trees but here in a farm building

 

White Woodpecker

Another Tegu

By about 11am it was getting very hot (we think it reached 40C later in the afternoon) so we relaxed before and after lunch.

[TonyQ]

We met up again with Julinho in the afternoon – it had actually become a bit cloudy. We were going to visit a hide near a pool – a place where tapirs regularly visit. On the way we saw..

Tropical Kingbird youngster (possibly!)

Rufous Hornero (?)

 

Rhea

 

Orange-backed Troupial

[TonyQ]

We arrived at the hide which was a very open rough wooden structure overlooking a water-hyacinth covered pool. And we waited……

 

Brocket (?) Deer passes by on the opposite side of the pool

 

We also saw a fairly distant Agouti. We waited until it was beginning to get dark and then we gave up. We were disappointed not to see a Tapir – but know that this is not a zoo. We may try again tomorrow.

 

When we left, Julinho spotlighted and we saw

Crab-eating fox

Tapir (bad photo –but we were pleased to see it after our long wait at the hide!)

 

We were also pleased to see a Coati and a Giant Anteater (very bad photos!)

 

Tomorrow would be our last full day in the Pantanal

Edited October 27, 2014 by TonyQ

[SafariChick]

Enjoying this report so much! I really have to get myself to the Pantanal - your trip was really spectacular! Glad you finally got to see the tapir at the end of the wait at the hide!

[jeremie]

It really seems Pouso Alegre is one of the Pantanal best places to spot amazon tapirs right?

What are the there good places you would recommend for tapirs and giant ant-eaters?

 

What are the best places you would suggest to visit as a first trip to Pantanal?

 

Cheers

 

Jeremie

[TonyQ]

@@SafariChick

Thank you - there is a lot to see - it is a great place

@@jeremie

Thank you for reading. Pouso Alegre is a nice place to stay. I will give some more general thoughts at the end of the report (almost there!). I have only been to the places in this report (first visit). I think Rio Claro is a good place to go as well, and Hotel Porto Jofre was a good place to stay.

 

I think the South is generally better for Giant Anteaters (though they are seen in the north).

Edited October 29, 2014 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

Our Last Full Day in the Pantanal

 

Another early start –up at 5am, a quick breakfast and out just after 5.30. We were expecting it to be very hot again, so it was important to take advantage of the cooler start to the day. In the morning we would walk along the direction of the access road/track (It is 7km all the way to the Trans Pantanal Highway but we would not go that far). In the afternoon we would have another go at the Tapir Hide.

 

As we moved 100m from the lodge, Julinho pointed to the top of a tree

Iguana, high in a tree, catching some early morning rays

 

We begin walking along the track

Buff-necked Ibis in tree

 

Cocoi Heron

 

Pouso Alegre has some very attractive pools along the main track and they attract a variety of wildlife.

 

Capped Heron (you may also notice a Caiman –eyes sticking out of the water just in front of the heron)

A Jabiru flies by – the noise of its wings sounds prehistoric

It perches above a distant nest

[TonyQ]

Walking along the track at this time in the morning is a real pleasure. The landscape is varied – flower filled meadows, flowering trees, pasture, patches of woodland. We see a small number of photographers during the morning; they are with a photography group and are working on their assignments.

 

The main track

Saffron Finch

Orange-backed Troupial perching on a heavily scented plant

Black-capped Donacobius

[TonyQ]

We came across two Caiman lying very close together

 

As we looked more closely we could see that one had blood on its back. We turned away to glance at something on the other side of the track, and then behind us there was an explosion of noise, splashing water. We nearly jumped out of our skin.

 

 

The Caiman had attacked the second one – its teeth sticking into the back. Up to this point we had viewed the Caiman as being less scary than their African cousins – but they are powerful creatures.

[TonyQ]

A flock of Monk Parakeets fly overhead

 

We walk towards the Jaribu nest.

Two chicks are visible, and other birds nest in the lower section of the nest.

 

Chicks beg for food

The adult moves along the branch for a bit of peace

The chicks are large and well developed – I imagine they must eat a lot.

[TonyQ]

A Turquoise Fronted Amazon

Bringing a gift as a token of affection

A Roadside Hawk

A Ferruginous Pygmy Owl looks down on us (It wouldn't show me two eyes!)

[TonyQ]

Cattle are still kept here

A Rhea

Tegu (I think the Common/Gold Tegu from the bits of orange on its head and neck)

 

We had really enjoyed our walk – it shows the advantage of the extensive and varied grounds. It was very peaceful. We get back to the lodge at around 9.30; MrsQ and I explore the grounds until it gets too hot.

A Turkey Vulture soars overhead

 

We decide to begin packing (for our return home ) and to relax over lunch, taking it easy until our afternoon outing to the Tapir Hide.

[michael-ibk]

Pouso Allegre looks very good, lots of good sightings for you. Tapir and Anteater!

 

Love that Marsh Deer in #158, almost looks like he´s shedding a tear there. And great job on the Marmosets, I know from (painful) experience they are not easy at all!

That snail kite must have been very hungry. Very much enjoy the pics of the Orange-Backed Troupial, a "target bird" for me. Saw one, but no photos. Definitely brocket in #165.

 

Take you time with concluding this, I don´t want this report to end...