Barranco Alto and Pantanal, a yearly appointment

[Soukous]

What a fabulous report @@Bush dog

so many stunning bird photos - I am drooling.

[michael-ibk]

Thanks for all the information about Southern Pantanal lodges, very helpful. Fab pics as always!

 

And ... What do you mean by a "real Cordon Bleu"? (Probably obvious to everybody but me but have never heard of that expression.)

[Bush dog]

@@Bush dog,

 

You mention the concerns expressed by lodge/property owners in the southern part of Pantanal. Is the situation any different in northern Pantanal? (I have never been to Pantanal, so the question may well be silly).

 

Many thanks for a very educational report full of truly stunning photographs!

 

Well, I was expecting this question (that is not stupid at all). I have been only (compared to the 8 times in the south) three times in the northern part of Pantanal, in the state of Mato Grosso (southern Pantanal is in another state, Mato Grosso do Sul) and the last one was in 2010. I did not have any discussions or relations with property owners, because often they were absent or only speaking portuguese. But from what I know, I think that the situation is worse. Indeed, further to the important demand of agrofuel (bioethanol) and the increase of food requirements, the agriculture (mainly soja) and the intensive livestock breeding are in expansion. Deforestation is already dramatically great, the most important of all the states in Brazil.

 

Thank you for your comments

[Bush dog]

@@Soukous

 

Thank you for your kind words. There are still some more bird pictures, taken in the north, to come.

 

@@michael-ibk

 

Thanks to you also for your comments.

 

"Cordon bleu" is a french expression, also used in english, that means "excellent cook".

[michael-ibk]

Ah, for me it's a breadcrumbed escalope filled with cheese and ham.

[Bush dog]

Ah, for me it's a breadcrumbed escalope filled with cheese and ham.

Yes, also!

[Bush dog]

Northern Pantanal is , like I said, different. The majority of visitors are going along the Transpantaneira road and to Porto Joffre and the Cuiaba river. They all come to see the JAGUAR. If you are focused on this superb cat, it is, with no doubt,, the place to come to. The area is easily accessible with a normal car and not too expensive and, besides, some companies guarantee the sightings! Yet, there is another place, where I have never been, where jaguar sightings are frequent ; along the Paraguay river and close to the Taiama reserve. But the the access to this place is more difficult. It’s thus more expensive and the sightings are not guaranteed. Having said that, if you want to see other mammals, like tapir or giant anteater, that I never saw in the north, in three trips, the south is much more better. The bird life along the Transpantaneira is of course very busy and chequered, but after two days of game drives on the road, I was a bit fed up (too much traffic, dust, exhaust fumes,…). I have been in different lodges and only one was good, according to my criterions of course. Those opinions are based on visits made 4 to 8 ago. Perhaps things have changed since then ?

 

 

Along the Pixaim river (close to the road)

 

Cocoi Heron

 

 

Green Iguana on a tree

 

 

Along the road

 

Neotropic Cormorant

 

 

Capibara

 

 

Vermilion Flycatcher

 

 

Savanna Hawk

 

 

Amazon Kingfisher

 

 

Roseate Spoonbill

 

[michael-ibk]

I of course do not have your experience with only one visit to the North but I would like to take up the cudgels for it just a bit.

 

Rio Paraguai is really not much harder to reach than the Transpantaneira, and I think it doesn´t get more pristine and untouched than the Isla Taiama reserve. So one can absolutely have an uncrowded, wonderful Jaguar experience in the North. Based on what I was told by our guide and the trip reports by Atravelynn and Treepol I´d say that sightings are reasonably reliable.

 

I saw seven Tapirs in the North btw (not counting a semi-tamed one). Agree about the Giant Anteaters, though, our guide told us they have become hard to see along the Transpantaneira.

 

Game drives on the road ... yes, the traffic is problematic in the Northern part, but I think it´s much better after you have passed the majority of the lodges, on the last 50 kms. At least that was my experience. And you´re not bound to the road, we did a lot of walking everywhere (even at Porto Jofre), and never met anybody else. I also had great night drives at the Transpantaneira (after midnight), with Puma, Tamandua and Anaconda sightings.

 

Even on the rivers at Porto Jofre I think you have everything but Jaguars mostly to your own. The big cat sightings, however, can be problematic with the number of boats, that´s unfortunately very true.

[Bush dog]

@@michael-ibk

 

One visit or three visits does not make a big difference in terms of experience and an opinion is always made in function of your own one and also based on what you were told and your own perception of things. Perhaps, I am wrong when I said that Rio Paraguay is more difficult to access. Like you, I was just repeating what a guide told me. Besides, I never pretended that I was detaining the truth.

 

Regarding the sightings on the Paraguay river, I said, based on what it was told to me, that they are frequent. I never said that you cannot have a wonderful jaguar experience in the north and that sightings were not reliable there. I just said that they are not guaranteed by opposition to the sightings on the Cuiaba and Tres Hermanos rivers, where they are guaranteed by a company in particular. In other words, I would say that I agree with you, the Rio Paraguay area is worth a visit, and probably not only for jaguars.

 

Obviously, you were very lucky, you saw more in one visit than me in three. I can understand why you find the area more attractive than I do.

 

You are right, the last 40 kilometers are better than the first 100.

[michael-ibk]

No offense meant, Bush Dog, didn´t intend to imply that you were claiming a patent on the truth. If you took it that way I apologize. Was just comparing experiences, and who knows, when I´ve seen the South it´s entirely possible I´ll share your view.

[Bush dog]

As I was there 4 to 8 years ago, there is no sense in giving an opinion on some lodges I did not like. Things might have changed since then. I will only mention the one that was a good experience : Rio Claro. Hotel Porto Joffre was also OK.

 

Pictures taken on the properties of other lodges

 

Jabiru

 

 

Great Kiskadee

 

 

Bearded Capuchin

 

 

Rufous Hornero

 

 

Black Tegu

 

 

Cocoi Heron

 

 

[Bush dog]

No offense meant, Bush Dog, didn´t intend to imply that you were claiming a patent on the truth. If you took it that way I apologize. Was just comparing experiences, and who knows, when I´ve seen the South it´s entirely possible I´ll share your view.

I can assure you I did not consider your intervention as an offense. I just wanted to precise my thoughts. But you are right, and my wife complains that sometimes I can be, even with her also, uselessly abrasive. So, it's to me to apologize if so I was.

[michael-ibk]

You were not, it´s just hard sometimes to tell online how a certain expression is meant (especially for a non-native speaker like me), that´s why I wasn´t sure. Certainly no need to apologize for you, all good.

[Atdahl]

@@Bush dog. Thanks for posting such great information about FBA. Your pictures are outstanding and just confirm that a trip to FBA needs to be on my short list. Your Anteater, Tapir, Toco topucan, and Macaw shots particularly stand out. They are just fantastic!

[Bush dog]

@@Atdahl

 

Many thanks for your nice comments

 

Pictures taken at Rio Claro

 

Sunbittern

 

 

Whistling Heron

 

 

Anhinga

 

 

Jabiru's nest

 

 

Black-and-gold Howler Monkey

 

 

Southern Tamandua

 

 

Black-capped Donacobius

 

[Soukous]

This continues to be brilliant Mike, thanks.

[Bush dog]

@@Soukous

 

Thank you so much for your support

 

 

The last pictures of the report

 

On the river Tres Hermanos

 

Giant otters : another group of otters was passing by on the opposite side of the river. It causes some territorial behaviour of the group on the pictures.

 

 

Jaguar

 

 

Black-collared Hawk

 

 

On the river Cuiaba

 

Great black Hawk eating what I supposed to be a lizard or very likely a young small green iguana

 

 

Jaguar

 

[Atdahl]

Wow, fantastic shots of the Giant Otters out of the water. Your pictures are the best advertising FBA could ever have . Thanks for taking the time to post them.

[Bush dog]

@@Atdahl

 

Thank you, once more, for your support

 

Well, I arrive to the end of the presentation.

 

I wish to thank all those who have followed, partially or totally this topic, in adding comments or not and ticking the « like this » box.

Pantanal, though different from Africa, has as much to offer and so, is as rewarding. If I emphazise FBA, it’s because I consider this place to be the only one, that I know, in the Pantanal, where the owners succeeded so well to keep a balance between humans’ activities and wildlife, in each parties’ best interests. I also found there a great respect for nature and local culture and traditions. They have , in all ways, an ethical behaviour. Nothing is made to interfere in the natural course of things to create sightings. I project, once again, to return there next year.

 

A last picture of a very common migratory specie, your servant, gazing at the nature’s spectacle, the greatest one on earth.

 

[Soukous]

First class from start to finish @@Bush dog

The Pantenal (& FBA) has squeezed its way onto my 'must visit' list and its not even in Africa.

[michael-ibk]

Thank you, Bush dog, this has been a terrific presentation, and I'm sad it's already over.

 

You really are a master photographer, and i'm already looking very much forward to your next report. Nice pic of you and the Tapir, although your pumpgun-like camera looks a bit scary.

 

You, TonyQ, Treepol and Atravelyy certainly did a good job of making a strong point for the South - Barranco Alto will be in my next Pantanal itinerary for sure.

[TonyQ]

@@Bush dog

I have really enjoyed your report, seeing tha Pantanal through your eyes. Your photographs have been superb from the beginning of the report to the end - great pictures of the otters and a beautiful Tamandua!

 

It has been really interesting seeing your perspective over time - seeing the overlap with our visit and the differences. Thank you for all of the work you have put into this.

[JohnT]

@ Bush dog , mesmerising, exquisite. Thank you for posting in such great detail.

Antbear with baby cracks it for me.

Pantanal now top of my list.

[Alexander33]

@ Bush dog

 

I am going to bookmark this report, as I consider this to be a reference to which I will return again and again until I book my own visit to the Pantanal and, I hope, have some of the same incredible experiences you have had. Thank you for your time and effort in educating me about what the Pantanal has to offer. (Your photography has also been nothing less than an inspiration.)

[Bush dog]

@Soukous@TonyQ@JohnT@Alexander33

 

Thank you once more for all your kind words.

 

@@michael-ibk

 

Thank you to you also. I passed the compliment, concerning the pictures with the tapirs and me, to my wife.

For FBA, be sure to book well in advance. Next report will be on Ruaha & Selous (yes, one more).