Kruger Jan 2014, a safari of wild dogs, ground hornbills and steenbok

[Tdgraves]

We have been to South Africa many times. This began long before our safari addiction. We started off with a few days here and there in game reserves and private lodges. However, last year, after having been to Etosha and discovering that Government-run camps aren’t too bad, we thought that we’d give the Kruger a go. Having just moved house, it was the only way we could justify a safari whilst we were in RSA, with the added bonus of more nights for less cost. We enjoyed it so much, that we decided to do it again. Granted you don’t get the luxurious rooms and gourmet food, but it is very cheap and you are in charge of your game drive, so if you want to watch the birds for an hour you can. Equally, if you have seen something good earlier, you can return to the same spot. Obviously it means you don’t have the guiding network behind you, but not having to share a vehicle has many advantages!

 

This year we reversed the route, to fit in with our friends’ schedule (whose home we use as a base in Jo’berg). So we entered via the Phaloborwa gate to Letaba, then Satara, Skukuza and Berg-en-Dal and out of the Malelane gate. This meant we went from the sparser game and game viewers area of the central KNP into the more densly populated (human and otherwise) southern areas. Also, last year we stayed in Lower Sabie, but their restaurant was closed for refurbishment and as there is only so much “slumming it” I will put up with, we omitted it this year! I do enough cooking at home, not on holiday as well. So this year we substituted Skukuza. I wasn’t keen, given it is such a large camp, but I now realise that this is not important in the scheme of things.

 

Last year we just caught the aftermath of the flooding. Although all gates were open, we were restricted to the tar roads for over half of our trip and several picnic sites were closed. This year the floods were much later, but instead we had the rain L

 

Itinerary

Letaba 22-23/1/14 - 2 nights

Satara 24-26/1/14 - 3 nights

Skukuza 27-28/1/14 - 2 nights

Berg-en-Dal 29-30/1/14 - 2 nights

 

I managed to squeeze in an extra night compared to last year, which we added to Satara

[Tdgraves]

Day 1 Phaloborwa to Letaba

 

Our first 3 days in South Africa had been very hot. Clear blue skies and sunshine all day. Unfortunately our rental car did not have a thermometer on it, but I would not have been surprised if it was around 38 degrees. The drive to this gate involves a lot of rural roads and although it was not busy, it was a long, hot day. Once we entered the park, there was another 50km to get to camp, so we couldn’t stop for long. However, we decided to drive the slightly longer gravel road, rather than the tar road.

 

We saw lots of lilac breasted rollers, including these two, who steadfastly refused to fly off

 

 

European roller

 

 

and this rather cute squirrel

 

 

We also saw a family of 3 ground hornbills, but they were in long grass and this did not make for the most exciting photos

[graceland]

So the LBR's were voguing for you. How polite of them. They really are a beautiful color!

 

I'm looking forward to hearing more; I've never imagined a self drive..but I guess when you go enough, you figure it all out yourself, and feel quite pleased - and rewarded!

[Atravelynn]

Your report will expand my horizons and teach me about new destinations. I am familiar with the species posted so far.

[Jochen]

Will be great to compare this thread with my own! (we spent part in Kruger NP this time as well, while we normally also choose private reserves)

So I'm very curious. Also curious what accommodation you had at the restcamps, and what you though of all camps

[Tdgraves]

So the LBR's were voguing for you. How polite of them. They really are a beautiful color!

 

I'm looking forward to hearing more; I've never imagined a self drive..but I guess when you go enough, you figure it all out yourself, and feel quite pleased - and rewarded!

Indeed. Once you have been on a couple of guided safaris, i think you would know enough to drive youself around

[Tdgraves]

Will be great to compare this thread with my own! (we spent part in Kruger NP this time as well, while we normally also choose private reserves)

So I'm very curious. Also curious what accommodation you had at the restcamps, and what you though of all camps

So it was the accommodation that initially put me off, rather than the driving, as south african luxury lodges do tend to spoil you! However, you aren't really in the room for that long, maybe four hours in the middle of the day (if you are not changing camps) and to sleep at night. So then all you need us a comfy bed and a nice hot shower. What i really missed though was the fabulous cuisine, but maybe that'll change now that the restaurants are being refurbished, certainly the selati restaurant in skukuza (in the old train station) already under new management, was really good.

 

The rooms are basic and some are tired, but there is ongoing refurbishment and for the money, what more can you ask? If they were available we had perimeter rooms, for the added view and either 2 or 3 bedded bungalows, depending on availability

[Tdgraves]

Day 2 Letaba - morning drive

 

Compared to the glorious sunshine en route to the park, it was very overcast and had rained overnight. The game is less dense around this part of the park and in the wet summer, the bush is very green. It was quite a quiet drive, however, we had our second ground hornbill sighting and they weren't even on the ground!!

 

 

and this soggy guy, who I assume is a brown snake eagle

 

 

There was a huge storm, so we repaired back to the room for half an hour to let it pass and went back out again. We found these vervet monkeys in the road drinking the after effects of the storm

 

 

 

We found these impala, who were very nervous

 

 

as we looked on the other side of the road, we could see why

 

 

the hyaena was very interested in the scent around the tree.

 

Then back to camp for a hearty bush breakfast and to dry off!

[Kitsafari]

So pleasant to see the 2 monkeys playing on the road! Made me smile....

[Tdgraves]

Day 2 Letaba - Evening drive

 

The sun had returned and we headed north to the S48 Tzende loop.

 

Where we found this pair of Tawny eagles soaking up the sun

 

 

and this hoopoe

 

 

a black korhaan (hiding)

 

 

and this cute steenbok

 

 

nearer to camp we saw this grumpy looking buffalo

 

[Tdgraves]

Day 3 Letaba - Morning Drive

 

We start off with birding and find this magnificent Korhaan, who rewards us with a song

 

 

and this lilac breasted roller, who looked so much better once the sun came around onto him

 

 

and then this pair of buffalo having a spa day (could've easily missed them as there was only a small clearing in the trees)

 

 

 

 

 

 

and back to camp to check out and have breakfast.

[Tdgraves]

Ooops - didn't turn the page over, I thought that it was a quiet drive, completely forgot about the stars of the safari - the Southern ground hornbills

 

 

 

 

and this young hyaena

 

 

I must double check before posting next time!

[Tdgraves]

Day 3 transfer Letaba to Satara

 

Middle of the day drive to change camps. Interesting to see the landscape change as you move further south into the park, much less mopani bush and being able to see into the river. Quite hot, so not too much about. We found this family of giraffe right next to the road.

 

 

And as the middle of the day approached, everyone was hiding in the shade

 

 

I have never seen a vulture on a nest before, this white backed vulture was just north of satara

 

 

and this carmine bee-eater was in an adjacent tree

 

 

Timed our arrival in satara to perfection - check in opens at 2pm. Time for a short rest after unpacking before the next drive

[Tdgraves]

Two things I forgot to say about Letaba:

 

1. They have some "tame" bushbuck living on site. They sleep under the overhang of the thatched roofs of the rondavels at night (sweeeeeeeeeet!)

2. They were using the elephant hall for a private event one night and a braai was being set up behind, with trestle tables (but no food). Three vervet mokeys were sat on the plastic chairs, waiting for dinner time! Unfortunately, Chris who was driving and therefore was nearest to them, was too slow with the camera....

[Tdgraves]

Day 3 Satara Afternoon Drive

 

Last year, we saw one report of a wild dog sighting, which was miles away from where we were, so when we checked in to Satara and saw that they had been seen that morning in the area, we felt that we should go and look, as it may be our only chance. It was a little further than we would usually do as an afternoon drive, but we felt that we had to take what may be our only chance. We therefore left quite early and the sun was still quite harsh and very hot when we saw some female kudu.

 

 

the ubiquitous steenbok

 

 

 

We did a ferrari-safari to get to the approximate area where the dogs were sighted, which was very dense bush. There were some vultures sitting in trees, but we could not get closer on the roads and were unable to see anything. I'm sure we were in the right sort of place, but it was still a bit too hot for them to come out to hunt

 

However, on the loop back towards camp, we found our first rhino family.

 

 

 

 

and at the Sweni dam, at least 7 ground hornbills roosting for the night (having seen several over the course of the day), but too far away from the road for a good shot.

 

No dogs, but a good day!

[TonyQ]

@@Tdgraves

I love the buffalo rolling in the mud!

And the steenbok have beautiful eyes

Great start to your report

[Tdgraves]

@@Tdgraves

I love the buffalo rolling in the mud!

And the steenbok have beautiful eyes

Great start to your report

 

I've always loved steenbok, but they are usually quite shy!

[Tdgraves]

Day 4 Satara morning drive

 

We drove the S100 loop. Some impala were definitely on edge, but we couldn't see why. On the sightings board later, others had seen cheetah, so I assume this was what had spooked them. Got close to a lot of birds and with clear blue skies, got some nice shots.

 

Senegal coucal

 

 

Grey hornbill

 

 

Amur falcon

 

 

 

Lesser grey shrike

 

 

but of course it couldn't possibly stay sunny - yellow billed kite

 

 

 

Green-backed heron

 

 

A smaller creature, who obliged for a few minutes before running away

 

 

We then saw our first lions, which was pretty amazing, given that they are the exact same colour as the grass and were quite far away. This is the best shot. As the one next to it put its' head down and was invisible, I remembered why it can be so scary walking in the bush - absolute camouflage! In fact one car drove straight on by....there were at least 3, but it was impossible to see further into the bush, where they all walked to after a while.

 

 

 

Staying with the black and white theme - a magnificent kudu bull and the gathering storm

 

 

And so to breakfast, which ended up being wors rolls as the restaurant closed 2 days earlier than advertised for the re-franchising. Given that the menu at the kiosk was wors rolls or pap and wors (and we had 5 more meals left...) we made a plan and bought all the requisite materials for a braai and cooked breakfasts and thanked the stars that our room was equipped with a kitchen (as not all are)! The shops are well stocked, but if we'd have known that we were going to be self-catering, we would have brought supplies with us from a shop with a better range and not at premium prices. I think we were customers of the year though, as we were proudly presented with a free gift - a Nestle Christmas hamper with all sorts of goodies in it! However, it all added to the experience and it was quite nice bbq'ing under the stars and secretly laughing at those unable to light a braai

[Tdgraves]

Day 4 Satara afternoon drive

 

There was some evil looking weather in all directions, and despite it being the weekend and therefore busy in camp, most people seemed to have decided to stay inside. We went along the S100 and then could decide which direction when we got to the end. Despite it getting darker and darker, by some sheer fluke, we managed to navigate completely around the storm! This is what was approaching...

 

 

It made taking photos rather tricky!

 

We saw a troop of baboons playing in a tree and I couldn't quite believe what I was seeing down the camera lens. I kept thinking, "no, he's not going to do that, is he?" but he did.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

a baboon swing!!

Given the weather, there was not much general game about. There was a male ipala chasing his females around, but I didn't manage to get a decent shot in the semi-darkness. We found this guy though...

 

 

At the end of the road we decided to turn right as it was quicker to the tar road and the left hand turn which we had taken in the morning already had a few very muddy patches with deep puddles - we didn't want to get stuck. Fortuitously this meant we avoided the rain. We only saw 3 other vehicles all afternoon. They were a bit surprised that we were trying so hard to get a shot of this guy though...

 

 

We saw a family of 5 ground hornbills (scared away by an oncoming car), but no steenbok.

 

 

Turning on to the tar H6 was the best decision ever. As we spotted this...

 

 

They had obviously been there a while as there was a dry spot on the road where he was asleep. They were very tired and not impressed that we had interrupted their nap.

 

 

 

 

However, when Chris accidentally banged his camera on the car door, he was instantly awake. I have never seen a lion "jump" before, it was quite funny!

 

 

 

It was getting late and they are very strict at closing the gates at the correct time, so as we had at least 12km (all guess work as there are only signs at the junctions) to get back to camp, we decided that we had to drag ourselves away from this private lion sighting. However, fate played a hand. Not 500m further up the road and we find another sleepy bunch....

 

 

Four adults and two cubs/pups asleep at the side of the road, less than 500m away from a pair of sleeping male lions!

 

 

 

We really did have to go now and did not stop to look at a large family of elephants en route. We arrived at the gate at 18.30 and the guard had already closed one side - phew! It was very tense on the way back as my husband does not like being late and he was stressing. Thoroughly worth it though and just goes to show - NEVER miss a game drive

[Tdgraves]

Forgot to mention, the first night in satara, while we were watching an animal documentary in the open air amphitheatre, we looked up and saw the international space station! What a coincidence....

[Sangeeta]

That baboon swing is hysterical

 

Lovely bird shots from the beginning of the report.

 

I think if the weather is bad, all kinds of animals decide it's easier to coexist than wrangle for space. I wonder if that is why there were two lots of sleepy predators so close to one another?

[Kitsafari]

love the baboon swing shots!

[Tdgraves]

Day 5 Satara morning drive

 

Needless to say, the rain caught up with us. I think it had rained most of the night and it didn't stop all day. We decided to stick to the tar road, not having a 4x4 and took the H7 to Orpen. There were more people about, including some pretty disgruntled looking passengers on a game drive from outside the park.

 

There were lots of raptors in trees attempting to dry off

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and we saw a little nyala family

 

 

 

some other birds

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and some soggy general game

 

 

I've never been on safari in the rain before, so our mission became "find the soggiest animals"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But despite the weather, managed to get quite a few shots - so it's always worth going out. Had a fleeting glimpse of a hyaena, but no chance for a photo and no steenbok.....

[Atravelynn]

The baboon swinging on the tail shows their sense of humor. Great zebra shots. You just made it through the gate in time. What would be the penalty for being late?

[Tdgraves]

The baboon swinging on the tail shows their sense of humor. Great zebra shots. You just made it through the gate in time. What would be the penalty for being late?

 

No idea - I don't think that they'd leave you locked out, but you can imagine the atmosphere in the car