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Zambia – South Luangwe August 2013 – Great to be back on safari!


TonyQ

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I have just been through in my mind about the leopards. I think 4 at Nkwali (possibly 5, but the good sighting in the tree could have been one of those we saw the previous night), 3 at Nsefu, 3 at the Bush Camp and at least 2 at Tena Tena (the one on the river "beach" at the lodge could have been the adult we saw earlier)

 

So 12 is the most likely figure (with a possibility of 2 more but could be duplicate). We had heard that it was a good place to see them, and for us anyway that was certainly true. We know we were lucky!

Edited by TonyQ
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Excellent @@TonyQ

Thanks for a great trip report, even if it did make me extremely jealous :)

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@@ZaminOz

Thank you - I know you had a great trip in S Luangwa because I enjoyed your report!

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Indeed I think any leopard fan will be jealous of your haul on this trip @@TonyQ! Not that I can really complain, having seen leopard and lion on two continents plus many Tiger, Cheetah and even Serval and Jungle cats this year! :D

 

I myself am thinking more of Borneo as well, with India pretty much booked for a week next May, I can see there are some good options to connect from Mumbai to KK. Not many cats there though, aside from Leopard cat. Not even going to mention the one on the top of my wishlist!! :D

 

The Pantanal is also another wonderful destination. I keep meaning to get there for a second time at some point. The only thing that holds me back is I want to take Ian back too.. :)

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Final reflections

 

We loved South Luangwa.

The wildlife viewing far exceeded our expectations.

We could not have dreamt of better leopard viewings in terms of number, quality and variety.

However, we also appreciated all of the other wildlife we saw, from the Elephant Shrew to the Elephant (and all those in between)

The Puku were beautiful.

The walking was wonderful and we want to do that style of trip again.

 

This trip certainly rekindled our desire to visit Africa again. We met an American couple who had been to South Luangwa every year for ten years. We will have a different approach - we want to go somewhere with a very different environment so we do not compare trips.

 

Where to choose - Safaritalk is providing much stimulus for discussion. Could it be Ruhaha and Selous?, Could it be Laikipia? Could it be Mana Pools. We are also seriously considering Borneo or The Pantanal (because of reading Trip Reports!)

 

Thank you for those who have read this and offered encouragement along the way. I have enjoyed putting it together and have relived many wonderful memories while doing so.

I believe I would love South Luangwa ~ and many other areas for walking that I've read trip reports on. I love the walking in Ruaha but there was nearly not the amount of game one sees in Zambia or Zim. You must realize it is totally wild and accept that ` although you can do as many game drives as you'd like; and of course get close up and personal. We chose to concentrate on walking because we've been so lucky in all our trips to Africa to have game overload. I liked looking for the aniamls. But it is not for an impatient person, or one with only enough time for a trip "here or there". However there are game camps for add ons before and after to get the thrill of many close encounters with the game.

 

I just wonder if I'd ever find another "Moli" - We were spoiled for sure! I'd sure many here would have great recommendations.

 

I'm sure you will find your next dream safari!

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@@kittykat23uk

Thank you. You certainly travel a lot - and have shown wonderful cat photos in your reports (your comment guided me to your Pantanal report - see reply)

@@graceland

Thank you - I think it can be dangerous trying to repeat a wonderful trip - a little distance of time can help - but I suppose it depends mostly attitude. I am sure you will not find another Moli, but possible someone else with their own unique talents

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Fantastic trip report, photos and writing - along with the report from @@Safaridude this has really made me want to put South Luangwa on my list of places to go. I just don't know how I would choose between the camps he visited and those you did as they all sound so good! And then @@stokeygirl is visiting yet other camps though it sounds like in the same area as the ones you visited. May I ask who you used to book the safari?

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@@SafariChick

Thank you (I have been enjoying the report from @Safaridude as well + yes his camps look good as well).

 

We booked through Expert Africa - we were impressed with them. They have staff that have been to the camps themselves so can talk from experience. If you tell them you are interested in S.Luangwa they will have someone who knows about it. (For most of our planning etc. we had Claire - she was away for a couple of weeks (when we spoke to another helpful person) - Claire was in Zambia for the 2 weeks!

They also have a very good website with lots of info about camps.

 

I don't have the expertise of most on this site, but am happy to answer questions that you think would be helpful in your planning

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Thanks, @@TonyQ - I will keep that in mind. And I have seen Expert Africa's website before and do always find it quite helpful with all the photos and descriptions.

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@@SafariChick Claire is the person I've dealt with for Zambia and also Southern Tanz. She's been extremely helpful, especially with all the trouble we've had with BA flight cancellations. Personally I don't need too much advice from agents when it comes to South Luangwa, but I think they know Zambia better than most, if not any, agents.

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@@SafariChick I can echo what has been said before. I have only ever used Expert Africa, because I can find no reason not to! They have a toll free US number and have much more information in their heads, rather than on the website/brochure, which is quite basic. They are used to long chats on the phone and tweaking itineraries as necessary :)

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Geeez! You took your time ;)

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@@TonyQ

 

Wow, your leopard sightings are just fantastic. (Have only read 1 page now, and I think you showcased more cats than five regular trip reports combined.) Really love your pics, especially the Pukus and the Civet. I have the Field Guide to Mammals of Southern Africa as well, it´s a nice way of preparing me for next year. I´m deligthed that I have 7 pages more to read. :)

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@@michael-ibk

Thank you - I hope you enjoy the rest of the report!

We did have great sightings, in particular of leopard

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Fantastic safari & report.

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Now I´ve read it all.

 

Your leopard sightings really are out of this world, can´t remember one trip report here that had more. But the whole trip must have been absolutely fantastic. I think when I go there I´ll just copy your itinerary, can´t get much better than this. Your enthusiasm and joy really is evident all through your report, I really liked that.

 

Of all the beautiful pictures I like the Roller with his lunch, the baby elephant in the swamp (looking very vulnerable), the lions at the buffalo carcass, the "Learning from Dad" one, especially the leopard in front of the buffaloes and the one-horned, battle-weary "Unicorn" giraffe best.

 

Lions at breakfast must have been an incredible thrill, were you afraid? (I confess I would have been.) How did staff react, where you told on how to behave?

 

I understand what you are saying about kills. Part of me really wants to see one, but I´m not sure I would really "like" it. (I´ve seen cheetah kills but those happened so fast I think their prey didn´t suffer for too long.)

 

Thanks for sharing.

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@@michael-ibk

Thank you for your kind comments - we loved it so I glad that came over

 

With the lions - I think I am too stupid to feel scared! When they were distant we didn't think they would come so close - as they got closer we still didn't believe it

The staff were calm and told us to stay where we were - they did shout to people still in their rooms not to come out

It was thrilling, but I never felt under threat, but it was a good way to fully wake up so early in the morning.

 

The itinerary worked well for us and was far better than we dared imagine

I am glad you enjoyed it

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