Phinda--Where the h is silent, as are the egg-laying Loggerheads

[Atravelynn]

The Cape Town Honeymooners, The Hyena Den, and the Demanding American “Lady”

Two members that shared my vehicle were newlyweds from Cape Town on their honeymoon, a strikingly attractive young couple, but more importantly they were pleasant and agreeable. The new bride wore a different, gorgeous “safari bush gown” on almost every outing and sat demurely next to her new husband and quietly enjoyed the drives. They would have made the perfect subjects for a magazine article on honeymoon safaris.

 

For the final afternoon of their visit, Ranger Sibu discussed going to the hyena den, which I had heard about from other guests and was very keen to visit. A couple of times during our drive, I asked for reassurance that we were heading in the direction of the hyena den. As the sun drew closer to the horizon, Sibu announced we were near the den and would stop for sundowners before visiting. I was feeling the panic of so close yet so far and requested we go to the den while there was still a little light. The plan was to go after dark when there was more hyena activity.

 

I could feel The Speech escaping my lips. “Some of us (meaning me) have come half way around the world at great cost for a chance at something special and unique. And we have it, right over there.” I pointed, estimating the direction of the den and hoping it was in the vicinity. “We cannot stop to have a drink and a snack now! We can drink anytime. We must go to the hyena den before there is no light!”

 

Sibu’s low key response was, “But something special is planned.”

 

The Speech resumed. “What’s more special than a hyena den with young pups? Nothing we could drink can beat seeing that. And viewing it with some daylight is better than in the dark.”

 

Realizing a compromise may be required, I suggested, “How about we have our drink at the hyena den?”

 

We reached agreement and proceeded. There were two young black pups jostling around outside the den’s entrance. Fantastic! I think some bottles and biltong were passed around within the vehicle while we watched.

 

The light quickly faded and more intense hyena activity ensued. Several adults and juveniles arrived. The tiny black pups frolicked and nursed. Their mother grabbed the pups, one by one, in her mouth and placed them where she wanted them. It was very cool and we were positioned well to see it all. Another vehicle joined us a little later. Maximum vehicle capacity at the hyena den was two.

 

Eventually, after a great show, we moved out to allow another group to get in. We drove to a spot, lit by candles. On a small table was a champagne bucket containing a bottle of bubbly and cold water—which had been ice back when we were hyena watching. There were some fancy snacks too, that were no longer hot and not as crispy.

 

The groom helped his beautifully attired bride descend the vehicle and they made their way to the special farewell hors d'oeuvres that were slightly past their peak. She observed the spread and turned toward the American “lady” to direct her first comment of the entire safari to me, “I liked your idea for the hyenas.” She was smiling.

 

So maybe I wasn’t the demanding American foreigner, after all, flying across the globe to swoop in and wreck the romantic ambiance of local newlyweds on their honeymoon with my demands. Or maybe I was but the hyenas proved a highlight for us all.

The End

Edited February 5, 2013 by Atravelynn

[ovenbird]

Lynn, this trip report keeps getting better and better! A bazillion cheetahs and impala young to go with your bazillion bats, a spotter cheetah, the cutest hyena pups, sea turtles laying eggs...what could possibly be next? I especially liked your pics of the little critters...they don't get enough attention, and the one of your guide photographing the giraffe. I don't want this report to end!

[Atravelynn]

Thank you Ovenbird, or is that Ground Hornbill?

 

I lied about no more cheetah photos. Really, that's it.

[graceland]

Well I am the first person in the jeep to take a "bubbly" when offered; but as you, I would have hightailed it to the den of adorable pups!

 

A great report! Thanks for going and reporting back to us, Lynn.

Fun and informative, as usual! Loved the giraffe shots too.

As for the cheetahs, there were plenty!

[ovenbird]

Is there such a thing as too many cheetah pics? I think not.

[kittykat23uk]

Wow lynn, Phinda looks wonderful. But I just looked up the prices. Ouch!

[Tusker]

Lynn, thank you for sharing. As usual, you have some excellent pictures, and it sounds like you had an amazing time.

 

Phinda is on my list for a future visit one day.

[Atravelynn]

Thank you for your interest and comments, everyone.

Wow lynn, Phinda looks wonderful. But I just looked up the prices. Ouch!

 

 

The prices have turned into ouch. They were not so bad in 2012 because there were 3 tiers of pricing depending on dates and I picked the lowest tier, plus there was also the stay 4 nights pay for 3. For 4 nights Phinda which included a private (no one else came and went with me) hour and forty minute transfer to/from Richards Bay Airport, plus a night and breakfast in Joburg it was $2035. I paid extra for the turtle safari when I got there. If others had shared the airport transfer with me, I would have gotten a small refund.

 

So, about $500/night for one person traveling solo and that included Joburg hotel, breakfast and all transfers.

 

I just checked the Phinda rates and the least expensive time for the least expensive lodging is $618/nt based on a double sharing. No transfer costs and no Joburg hotel with breakfast included. But the Phinda policy has always been no single supplement.

 

Perhaps the world recession is officially over. You heard it here first.

Edited February 9, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Pennyanne]

"Maybe Mrs. and Mrs. Pennyanne will be cheetah viewing at Phinda. I do think I had some good luck. 10 sightings, in 8 outings, 7 photographable in December. Light was never real good in Dec. In June 2007 I had 7 cheetah sightings in 10 outings and I think all were photographable."

 

 

Yes, the Pennyanne's have added Phinda to our list. The list is growing due to all the excellent trip reports. ?We want to go everywhere! However Phinda looks like a place we will try and get to within the next few years as long as prices don't go up too much.

Loved the photos of the mother hyena and pups. You have had some amazing sightings on this trip.

Edited February 9, 2013 by Pennyanne

[kittykat23uk]

Lynn, at the price you got it sounds reasonable, given the sightings you had. Wonderful cheetah pics! but i had in mind as an option to combine with whale watching in Moz, but that would have to be summer which is peak time for this area. I guess that would be a no go, especially for this year.

[californiagal1017]

Fantastic shots Lynn!! And your tripreport is a mine of information, thank you!!

[KathBC]

All those cheetahs Lynn on my I would have been in heaven and on the tracker seat no less!

 

Your giraffe photos seemed to play out like a symphony or even hand puppets on the wall.

 

Ouch on the eye sting, that must have been a bit scary.

 

Love the montages...what programme do you use for your pics?

 

Interesting read and as always very informative...where to next?

Edited February 11, 2013 by KathBC

[Atravelynn]

Your giraffe photos seemed to play out like a symphony or even hand puppets on the wall.

 

Ouch on the eye sting, that must have been a bit scary.

Thank you Jo, Californiagal, and KathBC.

 

Looks like a symphony in the snapshot but the giraffes were young males pushing each other around.

 

To get the collages I insert pictures into Publisher. There are probably better ways to do it, but I know how to do that. One reason I make collages is I still print out my photos, mostly in 5x7s. Sometimes I can get two photos for the price of one print if I get a pair of complimentary pics on one 5x7 print. Also if I put several pics on an 8x10, the one 8x10 costs less than numerous 5x7s. Scrunching down some shots is also forgiving if the quality is not what it could be.

 

Where to next is Tanzania in March. My 2012 trip was late in the year, arriving home Dec 10 and my 2013 trip is in the first quarter. So it is feast right now for Africa travel, but will be famine until probably mid-2014.

Edited February 11, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

pair of complementary pics

 

too slow on the edit.

[BJlock]

I loved, loved, loved reading about your trip. I haven't been able to find much first hand knowledge of Phinda. We are finalizing plans that include 4 nights at Sodwana Beach (Rocktail Beach Camp) and then hopefully 3 night at Phinda. This is the first I've heard about different lodges in Phinda for different wildlife, so thank you for that. Unfortunately, we will miss turtle season. But, for some odd reason, I'm now very excited to see cheetahs!