Kasanka, Bangweulu & Liuwa in Nov-Dec with Robin Pope Safaris

[egilio]

No bush dinner at Lone Palm. I did see another vehicle once in the distance, though. Maybe it was you, Eglio.

 

I recognize that wildebeest, Eglio! Thanks for sharing the gorgeous photo. You're giving me the needed kick in the behind to get going on the Liuwa portion of the trip report. You are right about lack of sunrise/sunset opportunities in early Dec. Good info about moon and dogs. We had one nice encounter with the dogs.

Were you in the group with Jo Pope? I definitley must have seen you.

[egilio]

Lynn, those pink lilies at Liuwa are really special. They give a unique look to the place.

 

Did you by chance see any tsessebes at Bangweulu or Kasanka? Just a couple of years ago, they were classified as a new subspecies (Damaliscus lunatus ssp. superstes). The latest aerial count at Bangweulue was distressing... only 400 or so counted... down from several thousand. Hopefully, that was just a wet season dispersal thing...

 

In Handbook of The Mammals Of The World their even listed as their own species 'Bangweulu Tsessebe (Damaliscus superstes)', while the ones in Liuwa are 'Western Tsessebe' (Damaliscus lunatus)'. They don't really classify subspecies, but rather see them as different taxa.

Same for Cookson's wildebeest, they list it as Johnston's Wildebeest (Connochaetes Johnstoni) with a disjunct distribution (Selous, Nyassa and Luangwa Valley).

[Pangolin]

In that brief morning at Nkwali we managed to see a Sun Squirrel and several Trumpeter Hornbills. In fact, while sitting on the ensuite, open air loo in my tent, I looked up to see a Trumpeter Hornbill in the tree. Always wearing my binocular harness I did a little birdwatching. Talk about multi-tasking!

I know I'm behind the times in catching up with this report, but this kind of talk can get you banned from some places! Another version of a pith and a pot!

[egilio]

After crossing the Luanginga you're not in the park yet. It's about a 2 hour drive to Matamanene and only after about 40 min you'll enter the park, although you won't notice it and there are no signs.

[Atravelynn]

 

In that brief morning at Nkwali we managed to see a Sun Squirrel and several Trumpeter Hornbills. In fact, while sitting on the ensuite, open air loo in my tent, I looked up to see a Trumpeter Hornbill in the tree. Always wearing my binocular harness I did a little birdwatching. Talk about multi-tasking!

I know I'm behind the times in catching up with this report, but this kind of talk can get you banned from some places! Another version of a pith and a pot!

That is hilarious Pangolin. You apparently have been following my trials and tribulations on getting banned and re-instated elsewhere.

 

Were you in the group with Jo Pope? I definitley must have seen you.

Yes, I was with Jo and Robin Pope part of the time and with Jason Afonso the other part. We did stop once for sundowners under the loan palm and maybe that is when you saw us. If It would have been nice to do the safaritalk handshake or something with you in Liuwa, Eglio, if I had known.

 

Did you by chance see any tsessebes at Bangweulu or Kasanka? Just a couple of years ago, they were classified as a new subspecies (Damaliscus lunatus ssp. superstes). The latest aerial count at Bangweulue was distressing... only 400 or so counted... down from several thousand. Hopefully, that was just a wet season dispersal thing...

We were told about them, but did not see any.

 

 

 

Did you come across the two younger lionesses too? Any news on cubs?

Only one young lioness survives. It is believed she is pregnant by the one surviving male. This lioness and Lady Liuwa spent time together and we saw them once.

Edited January 23, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Dec 1 Day 7 Liuwa

5:45 or 6:00 – 13:15 or 13:20 was typical of our morning outings. The emphasis was definitely on getting and staying out there!

 

My vehicle mate, Chris, spotted an Egyptian or Grey Mongoose, an uncommon species. He used no binoculars, yet his spotting skills were amazing. Chris attributed his talent, in part, to being somewhat colorblind, which nullifies any distractions of varied colors. This brought up a story from Guide Jason about a previous guest who had wanted to be a military pilot but failed the eye test due to colorblindness. This guy was immediately steered into Special Forces and he spent 3 tours of duty in remote areas where excellent spotting skills, enhanced by his colorblindness, were crucial to the secret missions. Makes sense, most animals are colorbind.

 

The carpet of pink lilies was more evident today then yesterday and we enjoyed seeing a variety of creatures in this setting. The ground, coupled with the skies, stole the show.

 

 

Egilio's wildebeest

 

At the hyena den a few cute pups were poking their heads above ground and peering at the peaceful scene of hyenas lounging about, a sharp contrast to the raw aggression of these animals the previous night.

 

 

Another unusual mongoose appeared, the Selous Mongoose, followed by some leaping oribi.

 

 

That afternoon we found the one remaining male lion in Liwua, relaxing under cool, overcast skies.

 

One surviving male lion in Liuwa

 

We drove off for sundowners, but not that far from the lion, prompting the QUOTE OF THE TRIP. How fitting Robin Pope would be credited with it. “I have a health suggestion. If the lion approaches the vehicle, please quickly embark,” he announced in his typical understated, avuncular manner. No embarking needed, fortunately.

 

In a small patch of wetland along the Munde River we experienced The Fireflies like none of us had ever experienced fireflies before. It was an explosion that lit up the night like Christmas decorations, fireworks, floodlights or our own private Milky Way. This unexpected final sight of the night was representative of the many magical surprises of Liwua.

 

 

Lady & other Lions at Liuwa

The best guess is that Lady Liuwa was a cub in about 2001 and the pride was poached leaving her alone in 2002. There were other lions occasionally seen in Liuwa until 2007, but none stayed around. In 2009 brothers were brought to Liuwa, following an attempt to bring in a single male, which sadly resulted in his death. In 2011 a pair of females was translocated. One female was killed in a snare; and, just weeks before my visit, the brothers had traveled to Angola, where one was killed but the other returned to Liuwa unharmed. Although Lady has mated, she has not become pregnant. However, at the time of my visit in Dec 2012, the other lioness apparently was pregnant by the surviving brother.

 

We observed Lady and the pregnant lioness spending time together, leaving the male to call and call for them without success. We felt a little sorry for him. It was thought that after the cubs arrived, a more cohesive pride would form and the male would be welcomed by the females. New lion life in Liuwa, even if not Lady’s cubs, would be fantastic. A compelling reason to book a Liuwa safari now.

 

The touching documentary, The Last Lioness, by Herbert Brauer can be viewed here. It runs about 46 minutes.

 

http://topdocumentaryfilms.com/the-last-lioness/

 

Black winged stilt White Pelican Crowned Crane Great White Heron

Edited January 24, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Dec 2 Day 8 Liuwa

The researchers notified us that they had located the wild dogs and invited us to their location. It was a brisk one hour journey across the park to reach them. We arrived to find the pack of about 20 dogs on a wildebeest kill. They were playing tug-of-war with carcass parts and warding off vultures. Soon, in came the hyenas, chasing the dogs off from the nearly clean carcass. The wildes had not moved far so the dogs proceeded to chase them around some more, stampeding the herd left and right.

 

Then it was into the shady trees for the dogs. We left them to their naps and watched a pair of hyenas quench their thirst at a water hole. Later we searched out the relaxing dogs. A great Dog Day Morning!

The wild dog researchers joined us for lunch. I think the fine cuisine of Matamanene was a welcome departure from their usual rations.

Thank you, dog researchers, for all of the above!

Blacksmith Plover flock

Edited January 24, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Still Dec 2 Day 8 Liuwa

That afternoon we were charmed by three red lechwe and searched for Lady Liuwa without success.

Foreground: Red Lechwe. Background: Indigenous purple Dissotus blossums

Jason and Robin tried their luck with the radio transmission equipment to find our lioness but it was sending us on a wild goose/lion chase.

Radio tracking Lady Liuwa and the other lioness

 

That evening, we encountered the male lion again who was equally eager to find Lady and her friend. We left him roaming the plains and calling in the night.

Only male lion in Liuwa Plains

 

I mentioned that if I did not see Lady Liuwa, I would not be heartbroken because I knew she was still alive and well and had companions now. That was more important to me than a sighting. At that point Chris strongly interjected his sentiments that he would indeed be heartbroken. Chris was a robust, strapping, manly-man copper miner who towered over all of us, but at the prospect of not seeing Lady--the main impetus of his Liuwa visit--he admitted, “I will cry if we don’t see her.” Oh goodness, the pressure was now on!

 

An aside: interesting commentary on copper mining in Mana Pools. Apparently the mining companies had been given free rein by the Zimbabwe government to explore a variety of regions for minerals and had invested millions in the process. Once they found copper and developed a plan to extract it, they were thwarted. From the mining point of view, it was unfair that they were lured in only to be rebuffed, millions of dollars later. Despite this injustice described and despite depending on mining for a job, there were miners who felt Mana Pools should not be mined.

 

In the “It’s Monday” newsletter, are more insightful comments about our Liuwa trip plus photos, from Chris.

 

http://www.robinpopesafaris.net/its-monday/mon-2012/mon-20121217/

Blacksmith Plovers in huge flocks in Liuwa

Edited January 24, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Dec 3 Day 9 Liuwa

We returned to the hyena den, hoping for more activity than last time, and were well rewarded with a first—even for Robin Pope. The hyena pups had found a dead python and were intent on rolling around on it. They were very enthused and quite good about taking turns. What a fascinating activity to observe as they dragged the python around, then rolled. Clearly they all were focused on this specific group task.

 

Mother hyena was out of the den and nursing two younger pups, contentedly and visibly. Wow.

Liuwa hyena den

[Sangeeta]

That was a great report by Chris as well. We should invite him here if he isn't already a member.

 

More great stuff, Lynn. The skies and ground would have certainly stolen the show if you hadn't had all these other fantastic sightings interfering with the view

 

The fireflies sound magical.

[twaffle]

Liuwa has to be one of the prettiest of the safari park destinations, certainly at the time you were there Lynn. Green lawns, pink flower borders, blue skies, enchanting.

[Atravelynn]

That was a great report by Chris as well. We should invite him here if he isn't already a member.

When I send some photos to my safarimates, I'll give them this link and issue an invitation.

 

Liuwa has to be one of the prettiest of the safari park destinations, certainly at the time you were there Lynn. Green lawns, pink flower borders, blue skies, enchanting.

Certainly is, which of course piques my curiosity to what it looks like in June or early Nov. Safaridude will report on the appearance in Sept.

[Atravelynn]

@Atravelynn: We must have, I left Dec 8 or 9. I probably had lunch/dinner with you!

 

Mystery solved! You're one of the dog researchers, Egilio! The pronunciation of your name as I heard it several weeks ago did not click in my mind with the spelling of it here. I was thinking you were another visitor in Liuwa who may also be involved in conservation, completely overlooking the fact that you were THE wild dog researcher.

 

This rather embarrassing little miscommunication calls into question my spotting skills if I cannot even properly identify who I sat right across from at lunch!

 

So apologies and thank yous all rolled into one and again how kind of you to generously share the movements and locations of the wild dogs that resulted in our fantastic sighting!

 

Not only were you responsible for the wild dog action we saw but some considerable hyena activity as well!!

 

Should I be fortunate enough to ever return to Liuwa and you are working there, I will track you down and you can expect a package of cranberries.*

Hyenas making off with parts of a wildebeest carcass from a wild dog kill in Liuwa Plains

Edited January 25, 2013 by Atravelynn

[wilddog]

I have really enjoyed this report. Liuwa is on my bucket list, but may never achieve, it so reading your report has been fantastic. It's the really wild remote feel that attracts and you obviously though it worth the cost.

 

I was in Benguela and Kasanka a few years ago. Wading through the swamps in search of the shoe bill was quite something and it is no doubt just as arduous now as it was then. and the Lechwe filling the horizon, what a breathtaking sight.

 

Sadly our timing did not coincide with the bat migration. It looks absolutely awesome!

Thanks for sharing.

[Atravelynn]

Still Dec 3 Day 9 Liuwa

 

“Let’s go look for the Marsh Owl,” suggested Robin Pope. We pulled up to the marsh and found about three flying around, just like that. One fellow permitted us a photo. It’s stuff like this that prompts jokes about the owls being on the Pope payroll.

Marsh Owl Liuwa Plains

 

Liuwa’s Blue Wildebeest migration numbers approximately 50,000 max in comparison to the approximately 1.5 million Blue Wildes that migrate through Kenya and Tanzania. But Liuwa’s is the second largest wildebeest migration known in Africa and the fourth largest migration on the continent. This morning we were privileged to witness several galloping strings of wildebeest going from here to there. A few even splashed through a big puddle, executing a Liuwa crossing.

Liuwa river crossing or rather puddle splashing

Wildebeest in Liuwa Plains

 

It was our last full day in the park and time was running out for a Lady Liwua sighting. We were reassured that everyone who had come to Matamanene had gotten at least a glimpse of her and that she often teased guests by disappearing for a while and then bursting onto the stage in grand fashion, ever the star.

 

We were watching a couple of African Skimmers and other birds at Kings Pool, not far from camp, when we heard the baboons alarm calling in the heavy forest across the pool. There supposedly are no leopard in Liuwa or that would have been our first guess, given the habitat.

 

A few minutes later, emerging from the thicket directly across from us, was Lady Liuwa, followed by her female companion. She sauntered to the bank like a super model down the runway. Out of a 3600 square kilometer park, Lady Liuwa chose the open area directly across from our vehicle to reveal herself and have a drink with us. She lapped up the water for several minutes in perfect light, joined by the other lioness, in front of a backdrop of indigenous purple dissotus blossums. Eventually their thirst was quenched and they headed back up the bank and into the brush.

The purple dissotus blossums surround the other lioness

Lady Liuwa of Liuwa Plains

 

We could tell they were on the move along the water by the sounds of the monkeys, so we followed them on our side of the water. A second time, directly across from our vehicle, Lady emerged from the tall grass and gave us sultry snarl, posing for a few seconds as she gazed our way. Her head was adorned with foliage accessories that obscured the unbecoming bulky radio collar. It was as if we had looked up from our cameras and shouted across the river in photoshoot-speak, “Work with me!” It is my favorite photo of her.

Lady Liuwa of Liuwa Plains - no collar visible in this shot

 

When the “Lady Liuwa Show” concluded, Jason explained that such behavior was typical of this lioness. It demonstrated her affinity for humans that was so evident in the documentary. Thank goodness there would be no tears for Chris in Liuwa, although he admitted that he might very well cry when reviewing his photos back home. At least those would be tears joy, reminiscing about Lady's dramatic appearance and admiring the photos of it.

 

Lady Liuwa's encore, in landscape format

 

Kings Pool was an environment for an indigenous water lily, Nymphea Nouchali.

 

Nymphea Nouchali, indigenous water lily

Edited January 25, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

I have really enjoyed this report. Liuwa is on my bucket list, but may never achieve, it so reading your report has been fantastic. It's the really wild remote feel that attracts and you obviously though it worth the cost.

 

I was in Benguela and Kasanka a few years ago. Wading through the swamps in search of the shoe bill was quite something and it is no doubt just as arduous now as it was then. and the Lechwe filling the horizon, what a breathtaking sight.

 

Sadly our timing did not coincide with the bat migration. It looks absolutely awesome!

Thanks for sharing.

It was indeed worth the cost. There are more places on that "may never achieve list" than on the bucket list for most of us. Unlimited wants with limited resources. Darn economic reality!

 

Thank you for the comments, wilddog!

[egilio]

You're more than welcome! And I'll remember the cranberries!!!

 

@Atravelynn: We must have, I left Dec 8 or 9. I probably had lunch/dinner with you!

 

Should I be fortunate enough to ever return to Liuwa and you are working there, I will track you down and you can expect a package of cranberries.*

[Atravelynn]

Still Dec 3 Day 9 Liuwa

 

We capped off our evening with a picturesque Greater Flamingo in the sunset, a highly unusual visitor for this park.

 

Greater Flamingo in Liuwa Plains

 

In other bird activity, a Secretary bird elicited a lot of excitement from the Popes because those are uncommon in Liuwa. Interaction with a Long tailed widowbird, added further intrigue to the sighting.

Rare sighting of Secretary Bird in Liuwa Common Quail African Snipe

Long tailed Widow Bird

 

 

A Whimbrel caused a lot of commotion. Chris’s giant lens caught the Whimbrel, which was confirmed by consulting Birds of Africa, south of the Sahara by Ian Sinclair and Peter Ryan--a good bird book for Zambia because Zambia tends to be excluded from Southern African and from East African bird books, being neither. For Kasanka, an East African bird book works well and for Liuwa a Southern African bird book works well.

 

Fish Eagles Spurwing Geese Crowned Crane

 

Interesting, Unusual Endemic Birds. but not every single bird seen

Flock of Blacksmith Plovers, along with an infiltrator, in Liuwa Plains

The terrain-altering deluge of rain rolled in big time during our farewell evening meal. The sudden flooding prompted a small, harmless Harold Snake to seek shelter in our dining tent. I spotted it and announced its arrival, making it the first snake that I ever spotted in Africa. The Harold Snake was promptly escorted back out into the rain.

 

Speaking of dining tent, the food was tremendous. Favorites included cold cucumber soup, fish cakes, and grilled mango. It was all superb.

Edited January 27, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Dec 5 Day 10 Liuwa back to Lusaka

Our last morning we left camp and 6:45 and were sent off with a brief farewell song and small gift from the camp staff, who all had done an outstanding job throughout our stay. We enjoyed a variety of birdlife such as a Bateleur and a juvenile and parent Fish Eagle joining forces to defend their catch from a marauding Yellow Billed Kite. The gorgeous yellow ground cover was a common theme whether for a pecking jacanas, hyenas in the spa, or a preening pelican, emphasizing the landscape’s continuing integral role in the beauty of Liuwa.

 

Liuwa Plains

 

11:45 Back at the Kalabo airstrip it was our turn to be the wistful departing guests, welcoming the excited newcomers, who hauled some impressive and massive photo gear. We assured them it would be put to excellent use.

 

The Popes were presented with their package of Wisconsin dried cranberries*; I’m guessing another first for them, along with python-rolling hyenas for Robin and the zorilla for Jo. It was time to depart on Proflight for the 2.25 hour flight back to Lusaka, arriving about 14:30, in plenty of time for the 18:20 flight to Johannesburg.

 

My RPS Kasanka Bat Safari and RPS Liuwa Plain Safari were, in every respect, top quality with a capital QU!

 

 

Lady Liuwa, on safari with Robin and Jo Pope, visiting the home of the Tethers, the fruit bat migration—it was a trip of encounters with legends and legends in the making.

 

~The End of Kasanka & Liuwa in Nov-Dec with Robin Pope Safaris~

 

 

* Wisconsin produces enough cranberries to provide everyone in the world with 26. I am working on the distribution.

Edited January 28, 2013 by Atravelynn

[twaffle]

It was all superb.

 

Just like this report. I think I'd really like Liuwa, it looks so perfectly beautiful.

[Sangeeta]

Very well done, Lynn. Totally echoing twaffle here. The only thing left to add to this report is a matching sultry snarl by our own Lady Liuwa herself

Edited January 28, 2013 by Sangeeta

[ZaminOz]

Thanks Lynn, for another outstanding trip report. Beautiful.

(but please stop making me homesick)...

[Atravelynn]

Thanks Twaffle and aplogies ZaminOz.

 

Very well done, Lynn. Totally echoing twaffle here. The only thing left to add to this report is a matching sultry snarl by our own Lady Liuwa herself

 

No sultry smiles but I can curl my lip on the right side like Elivs and Billy Idol.

[JohnR]

* Wisconsin produces enough cranberries to provide everyone in the world with 26. I am working on the distribution.

 

Anyone who actually likes them can have my 26

 

Brilliant TR though

[madaboutcheetah]

Lovely report, Lynn. Just catching up with this ........ Nice to see dogs in Liwa and you certainly had a great all-round trip in these off-beat destinations. We shall soon be comparing notes from the Wildebeest migration in the serengeti.

 

Hari