Kasanka, Bangweulu & Liuwa in Nov-Dec with Robin Pope Safaris

[Safaridude]

Wow wow wow! Can't wait for the rest. I am going to Kasanka and Bangweulu later this year, so this is going to be a great guide bookf for me, Lynn.

Edited January 19, 2013 by Safaridude

[graceland]

What a great" Lynn" experience, as usual. Though bats scare the bejeesis out of me,a pair of wigwam socks hanging in the tent might have the same effect. (and snakes, )

 

Whenever I wonder where I might "wander" next, I just find a ATL report and add it to the bucket. Great stories and photos, Lynn. I could use a lesson on TR and photo sharing from you too.

 

Perhaps GW would grant you a forum" topic specific" utilizing ST on "creating a book worthy report", including a lesson on DRAWING in your birds (or bats).

 

And Lady Lluwa, what a treat!

 

AS all your reports are.

[Game Warden]

Atravelynn, can you add your shoebills to this topic? Thanks, Matt.

[savoche]

Wonderful report! Both Liuwa and Kasanka are moving up my "must visit" list now...

[Atravelynn]

No swamp walking required, I presume in Mabamba. That location has piqued my interest too. You can never get enough Shoebills!

 

On 1/19/2013 at 12:44 PM, Safaridude said:

Wow wow wow! Can't wait for the rest. I am going to Kasanka and Bangweulu later this year, so this is going to be a great guide bookf for me, Lynn.

A Spring trip for you Safaridude? I now have more incentive to finish this thing promptly.

 

On 1/19/2013 at 12:52 PM, graceland said:

Though bats scare the bejeesis out of me,a pair of wigwam socks hanging in the tent might have the same effect. (and snakes, )

Lynn. I could use a lesson on TR and photo sharing from you too. Perhaps GW would grant you a forum" topic specific" utilizing ST on "creating a book worthy report", including a lesson on DRAWING in your birds (or bats).

GW has already created a thread on bookworthy reports. http://safaritalk.net/topic/1620-tips-on-writing-your-trip-report/

Here are his photo sharing instructions. http://safaritalk.net/topic/14-posting-images-in-the-text/

I'll add that I open up 2 safaritalks when posting pictures. One is for the report and one is to choose the pictures. Otherwise it gets to tedious for me. I'll also add that I first right click the photo to choose the size from the choices provided of small,medium, or large. Then I click on the photo and copy the address from the address bar. Of course, all of this is done AFTER you create your album.

 

You could ask specific questions as you go along in the Help Forum. Others have done that.

 

As for being scary, I would not have enjoyed the bats landing on me or flapping around in my hair, but they were far, far away. In fact we never saw a single bat when we were out and about during the day. We even were hoping for some shots of them hanging upside down asleep, but the areas where they rest are now off limits to guests. You'd have to be lucky to find bats on the fringe of the forest asleep. Film crews from BBC and from Korea were granted permission (at a hefty feed) to enter the forest and that's how BBC got footage of birds of prey hunting bats. Some of the promotional literature we saw at Kasanka stated, "Get close to bats" or something like that. It showed an eyeball to eyeball shot of a flying bat. That is almost impossible to see now that there are restrictions of going into the forest. The closest we got to the bats was in the Thatched/Bupata Hide.

Edited December 17, 2018 by wilddog

[AKR1]

Fantastic trip report (as usual) Lynn. The bat shots are amazing although I doubt they reflect the panorama of a sky full of migrating bats as far as the horizon that you experienced. Thanks for sharing.

[Atravelynn]

Nov 28 Day 4, Morning and Evening Bat Visits.

3:30 wakeup

3:45 tea

4:00 depart Wasa

Arrive at BBC hide by 4:40

 

BATS #3 at the BBC Hide

Approx 4:50-5:30; Best sunrise colors were 5:00 to 5:15.

 

BBC Hide, morning

 

5:30-6:00 Descend from hide and leisurely walk to vehicle. Pukus in the mist were visible.

 

6:00-7:15 Game drive back to camp. Main subjects were puku, a few birds of prey, arthropods, and an endless sea of white termite mounds. We stopped for some purple Wild Ginger Lilies and yellow Wild Rose Lilies. With the help of Webby and Graham, we harvested an edible mushroom, Termitomyces Letestui.

Termite Mounds, Kasanka

Wild Ginger Lilies with Grub inside, head of the Green Snake from Bangweulu, Flap-necked Chameleon at the lodge, Millipedes

 

7:30 breakfast, which included delicious sautéed Termitomyces Letestui. (While I’ve only highlighted this one unique entrée, all the food at Wasa as great.)

 

8:15 Depart for Luwombwa River

A Flap-necked chameleon that I proudly spotted on the gravel driveway in front of camp sent me off on the 90 minute transfer to the river. We saw a few puku and monkeys to/from Luwombwa. Everybody else decided to go with Graham to Livingstone to meet with Chief Chitambo's relative, who Graham was interviewing for his research. It was in Chief Chitambo’s village that David Livingstone died. So Jacob drove the Livingstone visitors I and got a private canoe trip with Webby and Amon.

 

9:45 Arrive Luwombwa Lodge

This is the other lodge in Kasanaka. The area along the river is a stark contrast to Wasa on the lagoon.

 

10:00-11:45 Canoeing on the Luwombwa. I sat in the middle of the canoe and looked/photographed while Amon and Webby paddled.

Waterlilies on Luwomba River

 

There’s a pair of Pel’s Fishing Owls that live along the river, but unfortunately they were nowhere to be found. We did see many White Fronted Bee Eaters nesting in holes along the bank.

White fronted Bee eaters nesting along Luwomba River

 

Some croc photos turned out properly menacing. Many kingfishers.

 

Luwombwa River crocs

 

A beautiful, peaceful paddle. Jo Pope mentioned that a Luwombwa River safari (with at least one overnight) was one of the most beautiful excursions she had ever taken. I can see why.

 

Luwombwa River

 

I lunched with Amon, who guides at Tafika during high season. A bright and impressive young man! After lunch, I was afforded the luxury of a little snooze in one of the lodge rooms. Just what I needed after my 3:30 wake up.

 

14:00-15:30 return drive to Wasa

Edited January 19, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Still Nov 28 Day 4, Morning and Evening Bat Visits.

16:00 depart Wasa for Fibwe Sitatunga viewing hide

16:40 arrive Fibwe hide

 

The Fibwe hide requires about a 20-meter stair climb, to look for sitatunga. We saw one male, but sometimes they see many. People also watch the bats from Fibwe, but it is not ideally located for bats. We stayed about 15 minutes.

To the Fibwe Sitatunga Hide Lower Platform of BBC Hide visible

 

BATS #4 at the Public Lookout

17:45- 18:45 pm

 

We walked about 15 minutes from the Fibwe hide to the public lookout. The Fibwe hide, BBC hide and the public viewing area (on the ground in kind of a parking lot) are all within walking distance. So if there are members of a group who do not want to climb up to the platform hides, they could remain on solid ground at the public lookout. We were fortunate that the public lookout had no other bat watchers besides us. A few stragglers of the same elephant herd we had watched on our first night could be seen in the distance.

 

Kasanka

 

We also saw a couple baboons. The researchers we encountered informed us they were a subspecies of Yellow Baboon, known as Kenda Baboons, which have slightly different behaviors from other baboons. For example the Kenda males spent more time grooming females than other baboons.

 

Kenda, subspecies of Yellow Baboons, Kasanka

 

The public lookout provided an expansive view with picturesque trees in the sunset. The hides need to be reserved, which Guide Jacob took care of for us. But if you were on your own and could only observe from the public viewing spot, you’d see lots of bats. The day before, a group of excited school kids that had stayed in the Wasa campground came by truck to view bats at the public site. There is plenty of room in this parking lot viewing space for dozens of people.

 

Kids on their way to bat viewing at Public Lookout, Kasanka Public Lookout, evening

Public Lookout, evening

 

40 minutes back to Wasa Lodge.

Edited January 19, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Safaridude]

Nope. I am going in September (not even trying for shoebill or bats(, so you have plenty of time.

Edited December 17, 2018 by Tdgraves
P

[Safaridude]

Something strange happened on the last post by me. Lynn asked the question, 

[Game Warden]

If having technical issues can you report it in the software update topic? If it's a case of wine, can you tell me which one you are drinking?

[Atravelynn]

 

This is the stuff of strange dreams after too much Mexican food late at night. Or perhaps a more potent, banned substance. I doubt the above lines have ever been typed, uttered, or even thought of before.

 

Everything in this thread is looking fine to me. I checked to be sure none of the sitatungas had a shoebill head. If Lady Liuwa had somehow been defaced, we might have been in trouble with the law.

Edited December 19, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[Game Warden]

I dream about seeing 3 pangolins...

[Atravelynn]

 

I dream about seeing 3 pangolins...

Just one would suffice for me. What would a group of 3 pangolins be called? A tripod of pangolins? A pangle of pangolins? More accurately, highly improbable.

-----------------------------------

 

 

Nov 29 Day 5, Morning bats and return to Lusaka

3:30 wakeup

3:45 tea

3:55 depart Wasa

Arrive at BBC hide by 4:30

 

BATS #5 at the BBC Hide

4:35-5:45

The last 15 minutes were spent photographing blue monkeys from the hide and the nice light on the trees. The bats were gone by 5:30.

BBC Hide, morning

 

6:00 – 7:00 The game drive back to the lodge focused on more of the white termite mounds in interesting light and puku.

 

Kasanka

 

Between our final breakfast and packing up, we were treated to views of a sitatunga grazing in the identical spot as she was when we arrived. A male sitatunga and a mother and baby also periodically showed themselves across the lagoon, nice final memories of the lovely Wasa Lodge.

 

10:30 Depart Wasa for airstrip

11:00 – 12:30 Fly Skytrails to Lusaka

Skytrails Pilot Brad fueling the plane Wasa from the air

 

I bid farewell, with a package of dried cranberries* from Wisconsin, to Guide Jacob, who had worked tirelessly and enthusiastically to make our bat trip worthy of those TV Batman exclamations: Zowie, Powie, Swoosh, Kapow, Bam, Wow!

 

Hello to Guide Rod Tether, who had not changed a bit since the last time I had seen him over four years ago. Upon arriving at his lovely home, I could say the same for Guz Tether. Their growing family of three children, plus three dogs and a cat must be their secret for staying young. One of the Kutandala staff members, Michael, had continued his employment with the Tethers in Lusaka, so it was nice to see him too.

 

We had a wonderful visit and Guz pulled off some of her Kutandala cuisine magic for a gourmet lunch and dinner, complete with greens picked from their garden. Since leaving Kutandala, Guz has put her talents to work in her own catering business and Rod is arranging and leading safaris with Zambian Expeditions. The kids were enthusiastic and fun to be around and I had the unexpected pleasure of watching Grease 2, a favorite of the youngest child and several playmates. The Tether’s hospitality was wonderful, and it included a very early morning trip back to the airport for an 8:00 flight.

 

My goodbye to Rod included not only some cranberries*, but the sincere hope that we would meet again within a few years.

 

~~End of the 3-night Kasanka part of the trip~~

[egilio]

 

The movements of the wildebeests seem to be related to where grass fires have been, and rains. Last year they went by Matamanene (North to South) almost unnoticed and by the time RPS was doing their safaris the majority of the wildebeests were actually quite far south of Matamanene Camp. You can see herds of several thousand from the ground, but when you fly over them you see several herds of each several thousand close together, while on the ground you would only see (part of) one herd. Because Liuwa is so flat, and not will rolling hills like the Serengeti, it's difficult to get an overview of the herds from the ground. More regularly herds of up to a thousand are seen.

 

Around this time, when there is much more water the concentration of animals actually becomes higher, but the movements are severely restricted. The day I left (first week of December) the first seizable lechwe herd was seen again, and I received a report about ten days ago that a pack of 20 wild dogs had taken 5 lechwes in one hunt in one pan!

 

One thing not mentioned here, or I might have missed it, is that the wildebeests calves drop around end of October/early November, and this happens mostly in the south of the park, around Matamanene. The wildebeests stay around in the south until May/June and RPS runs safaris in Liuwa in April-May too.

Edited December 17, 2018 by wilddog

[Atravelynn]

In general when researching this trip, early Nov seemed more suited to Liuwa both for wilde calving and for less rain. "Dramatic storms and skies" was what I kept reading about Dec, which was true. We also got to watch the ground bloom in December.

 

Don't know about the scenic game flight. Might be worth investigating. I do know that there was an airstrip that was built at Matamanene, but it was not being used. From what I understood it was created in such an eco-friendly manner that the usefulness of it was impaired.

 

Egilio, we might have crossed paths. I departed Liuwa Dec. 4.

 

In contemplating when to go, you may end up returning in a different season just like the couple did that was traveling with me. Two years ago they went in May. One thing they said about May was that it was extremely cold.

 

Time with the Tethers was great, .... You're so right about Guz's cuisine.

[egilio]

Anything is possible at a price. But there is no pilot in or around Liuwa could conduct commercial flights. If you come in in a small plane (not caravan) but with SkyTrails in the 206 for example it could be that the costs are not that excessive. But it also depends on available fuel.

 

Early of late November...the only thing maybe a bit better in late November is less smoke in the air, but in late November there can be so many clouds that sunsets are less dramatic. The one thing I would pay attention too is moon. Try to come around new moon. The wild dogs will be less active during the night, and thus more active during the day.

 

@Atravelynn: We must have, I left Dec 8 or 9. I probably had lunch/dinner with you! Did we have bush dinner out near Lone Palm?

Edited December 17, 2018 by wilddog

[egilio]

Here a picture from late last year!

Edited January 21, 2013 by egilio

[Atravelynn]

On 1/21/2013 at 1:38 PM, egilio said:

... Anything is possible at a price. But there is no pilot in or around Liuwa could conduct commercial flights. If you come in in a small plane (not caravan) but with SkyTrails in the 206 for example it could be that the costs are not that excessive. But it also depends on available fuel.

 

... Early of late November...the only thing maybe a bit better in late November is less smoke in the air, but in late November there can be so many clouds that sunsets are less dramatic. The one thing I would pay attention too is moon. Try to come around new moon. The wild dogs will be less active during the night, and thus more active during the day.

 

@Atravelynn: We must have, I left Dec 8 or 9. I probably had lunch/dinner with you! Did we have bush dinner out near Lone Palm?

No bush dinner at Lone Palm. I did see another vehicle once in the distance, though. Maybe it was you, Eglio.

 

I recognize that wildebeest, Eglio! Thanks for sharing the gorgeous photo. You're giving me the needed kick in the behind to get going on the Liuwa portion of the trip report. You are right about lack of sunrise/sunset opportunities in early Dec. Good info about moon and dogs. We had one nice encounter with the dogs.

 

... I will be interested in your planning for Liuwa, especially if you are planning an independent trip. Such a special place. I could see returning a couple of times. (See does not necessarily equal afford, though.) Safaridude is to Liuwa going in Sept. Maybe there will be lion cubs running about at that time.

[Atravelynn]

9 nights would be a great plan! Maybe in 2015 or after we can organize a Safaritalk Liuwa trip. Having several people to share either the vehicle cost (more of a possibility in late Oct/early Nov) or flight cost (good choice for early Dec when everything is likely to be wetter) makes sense.

 

If seeing Lady Liuwa is your priority, by 2015 who knows? She is estimated to be 11 currently.

Edited January 21, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Nov 30 Day 6 Lusaka to Liuwa

At the airport I was reunited with Wendy and Hugh and met our new participant, Chris. Jo Pope joined us, as we would be hosted in Liuwa by Robin and Jo Pope.

 

8:00 – 10:15 scenic flight to Kalabo with Ngwazi Air (departure tax of 58,000 Kwachas)

 

Flight to Liuwa Plains more specifically to Kalabo

 

Robin Pope and Guide Jason Alfonso were there to meet us at the airstrip in Kalabo.

 

30 minute drive through town and wait at the river bank for the pontoon-ferry, which took only 10 minutes to cross the Luanginga River.

 

Then we embarked on a 2-hour drive to camp. The first hour was barren of wildlife, even though we were officially within the park. We endured a brief rain shower that stopped just in time for our initial sight of the Blue Wildebeest, which arrive in this part of the park late Oct/early Nov. That is also the time frame during which they gave birth. We saw several umbilical cords on new calves but no birthing.

 

We lunched with the wildes.

 

First glimpse of a few of the approximately 50,000 wildebeest that migrate through Liuwa Plains from late Oct to Dec

 

Another 45 minutes and we were at the charming Matamanene camp, which means place of the pools.

 

Robin and Jo Pope at Matamanene entrance

 

16:00 After tea we departed and observed the first of many storms on the horizon. A monitor lizard was intent on its digging and paid us no attention. We found wildes and wattled crane and hopped out of the vehicle for closer inspection of the pink lilies covering the ground, reminding me of the poppy scene from Wizard of Oz.

 

 

Amachiris lilies

 

 

During sundowners we watched the crowned crane land in a nearby pond.

 

All photos in Liuwa Plains

Edited January 22, 2013 by Atravelynn

[graceland]

What an adventure you are on....

 

and I love the pink spider lilly. Wish I had seen more.

 

Its always nice to have a moment to stop and smell/see the flowers.

[Atravelynn]

Spider lilies, monitor lizard, wild dogs... lots in common...were we on the same trip Graceland? Oh wait, of course not if mine had bats.

Spider Lily in Liuwa Plains

--------------------------------------

Still Nov 30 Day 6 Lusaka to Liuwa

 

The night drive produced a zorilla! My first and even more amazing Jo Pope’s first.

Zorilla on night drive in Liuwa

 

Then we came upon about a dozen hyenas on a kill. Soon they were joined by the rest of the clan until we counted 28. The feeding frenzy got a little wild with internal squabbles carried out away from the carcass and next to the vehicle. Horrific howls and yowls were part of these raucous quarrels and when we shined the light toward the sound, there was plenty gnashing of blood-covered teeth. For half an hour these nearby battles in the blackness persisted, growls and bone crunching at the carcass. The scene emphasized the stark brutality of a hyena’s existence. It was an adrenaline rush for the human observers, and probably a just normal night out for the hyenas.

 

Hyenas on a kill in Liuwa Plains

 

Our day ended about 20:15, which was typical.

 

Approximations for Liuwa: . = 5:45. Sunset = 18:40 High temps = 90 ish at times during the day, but some days high was only 70s F. Probably 60 F at night.

 

Vehicles in Liuwa

Covered, 2 rows of seats. On almost every outing, we took two vehicles, one with Guide Jason and one with Guides Robin and Jo, meaning 2 guests in each vehicle most of the time.

 

Robin Pope in the drivers seat and me riding shotgun--Didn't notice the fish eagle in the trip until photo was downloaded.

 

 

Sometimes one of the vehicles also had a scout. There were rain flaps that rolled up/down and rain ponchos provided.

 

Edited January 22, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Sangeeta]

Just relooked through all the photos again for the sheer pleasure of it, Lynn - those bat scenes are truly incredible and I can understand why you felt like embracing the scene like you did. And the combo of the bats & black lechwe & Kapotwe and now all this color and subtle beauty of Liuwa... simply overwhelming. The watery, marshy ground seems to really accentuate even the most delicate colors here.

 

Did you come across the two younger lionesses too? Any news on cubs?

[Safaridude]

Lynn, those pink lilies at Liuwa are really special. They give a unique look to the place.

 

Did you by chance see any tsessebes at Bangweulu or Kasanka? Just a couple of years ago, they were classified as a new subspecies (Damaliscus lunatus ssp. superstes). The latest aerial count at Bangweulue was distressing... only 400 or so counted... down from several thousand. Hopefully, that was just a wet season dispersal thing...