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Found 8 results

  1. I am thinking to change my camera (D7000). Overall I like it, the only thing that drives me nuts is the size of buffer. Normally buffer space ends right when you really really want to continue shooting . I am not that savvy in photography so I need your advise. Do you think D500 is worth the price asked (it is pretty expensive)? Are there other improvements comparing to D7000 which I will notice (on my amateur level) other than buffer size?
  2. I have been planning to get a full frame camera for my February 2018 safari, and earlier in the year had decided on the D810. I was really tempted to buy a few months ago when they had a great sale going on, but decided to wait as it was rumored that the replacement model would be announced over the summer. That turned out to be true (sort of), with Nikon announcing the name (D850) but very little else. To be honest, the D810 has everything I really want in a camera. In fact, the main change I am hoping for from the D810 to the D850 is to change the CF card to an XQD since my other camera is a D500. Sure, faster this or better that would be nice but not entirely necessary. I just saw this article (Nikon D850 Will Be a ‘Baby Nikon D5’, Reports Say) that among other things speculates that the D850 will sell for $1200 more than the D810 (putting it up to around $4000 based on current D810 pricing). I'm really hoping for the official word from Nikon soon on specs and pricing, as for that price I'd definitely go with the D810. So a question for D810 owners. What do you wish your D810 did better?
  3. I'm not one to usually ask for lens advice but I'm really stymied! I'll be traveling to the Masai Mara in September for the migration and of course birds and everything else. We will have a private guide and vehicle for most of the trip, just sharing for three days in one camp. My problem is that I have too many lenses to choose from! (I know, a sad story.) I'll have two bodies, a Nikon D810 (full frame) and Nikon D500 (1.5 crop.) My current thoughts: I'll take the 24-70 2.8 and the 70-200 2.8 for use on the D810. For scenery, larger and closer beasts, beasts in habitat, etc. This is pretty set. But I have several options for the crop frame D500, which will be my primary for birds and also, I'd imagine, any kind of action as it is built for speed. 1) The 200-400 F4 VR has been my staple safari lens for years. I have had good success with this lens, and used it mostly with the 1.4 tc. But have not been 100% happy with the IQ, especially with the TC. It is well known that this lens does well at short distances but does not resolve well at long distances. So the con of this lens is less than excellent IQ, especially with the TC. But the pros of this lens is versatility of range, and also hand-holdability. I can hand-hold this pretty well for short distances walking and for longer periods in a vehicle. It focuses quickly even with the TC. It also close focuses a bit closer than the 500 F4. 2) 500 F4 VR The IQ of this lens is superb and does well even at long distances. Adding a 1.4 tc barely effects quality, in my opinion. PROS of this are: Better IQ with the TC than the 200-400, and longer reach. This would be especially useful for birds. CONS: Too heavy for hand-holding. Would need to always have support in the vehicle, whether bean bag or maybe monopod (walking isn't really an issue for this trip as I doubt there will be much, even in the camps which are small.) Less versatile than the 200-400 in range (but I could cover that range with the 70-200 + TC) 3) Nikon 200-500 F5.6 VR This lens has surprisingly good IQ and I think its actually sharper than the 200-400VR. PROS: Very versatile range. Totally hand-holdable, I can walk with this lens all day on a sling strap, so would be very easy to maneuver in a vehicle. CONS: Slow to focus at times, especially in low light. Slow lens (F 5.6) In theory it can be used with a 1.4 TC but I haven't tried it. I'd also be concerned about the build...its a well-built lens but it does extend when zooming which can introduce a lot of dust and makes it less rugged than the other two which are weather sealed, pro lenses. SO...if you have read this far...thoughts??? I guess one question I'd have is how often in the Mara are you really distant from the action? I've got lots of time to fret over this....
  4. Hi Safaritalkers I thought I would open up this question. I have a pretty good idea what works for me, but it is always interesting to get other views and learn something new. My gear as a background for my thoughts. I use pro body Nikon cameras, now I only have Nikon D4 (x2), but a D500 will join my bag in the future. I have owned and experienced some Nikon bodys (D90, D300, D7000, D3, D800) now sold for different reasons. I have a Ricoh GR (compact with APS-C sensor and 28 mm lens) for snapshots. I have a almost full set up of lenses (50 mm f/1,4 24-70 f/2,8, 70-200 f/2,8, 300mm f/4 PF, 200 mm Micro AF, 600 mm f/4 and TC-1,4 and 2,0). Only lens i´m considering buying in the future is 14-24 f/2,8. Anyway, Auto focus: I always work with "backfocus", AF on the thumb button (AF-ON) and not on the shutter. I move around a lot which focus point it is measuring from according to composition. I always use continous focus. I almost always use one (singel) focus point. Sometimes I try different focus setting with more helping/active focus points like d21. But to often focus is lost on some pictures because of grass. Only when I photo birds in flight (BIF) I go for all focus points (d51). Obviously landscape I would do with single point AF. Something I have not experimented with is focus following setting (I use normal - "3"). It would be very interesting with comments and experiences of this. Mode: I always use manual. And almost always with auto-iso with a maximum setting of 12800 iso. When really dark or when auto iso goes over 6400 I often go to manual iso settings. Obviously shutter times and aperture is on back and front wheel. I always have them preset according to what I expect might happen, but is quick to change when it is action. Exposure: I use full area exposure measure. I have point measure on the pv button and use it sometimes. But I use exposure compensation all the time. FN button: On the fn-button I can change to different crop modes, but I never use this. I crop al lot in post. VR: I use it with care. If possible I turn it of. So basically I use it if I have to go to 1/2 of shutter times / lens length. I almost always use a beanbag (when in a car), which helps stability a lot. I do prioritize short enough shutter time before low iso. Be aware that if you have VR on and put the camera on a hard surface (car frame) then the movements of the VR will make the pictures blurred. Handhold it or use a beanbag. Tripod setting for tripods. Lens changing: I try to avoid it. On big reasons for 2 or 3 cameras. But I also do sensor cleaning my self, and normal do that a couple of time on a safari trip. I check for dust spots (zoom in on bright pictures) several times daily. Flash: I don´t use flash on wildlife or birds. Shooting people i sometimes use it, but I don´t even bring a flash on safari. Decision making: 1) Settings like shutter times and aperture according to what I expect. Focus point center, because of speed and availability to crop in post if necessary. 2) I always work to find what I am looking for. Which means I look for good light, good angles and good background. I choose what place/habitat I am in according to this more than chance of finding an animal. Often if I have a good spot and know animals is/might be around I sit and wait for them to come to me and the good photographic spot. 3) Shot away if something interesting pops-up. Hope for the best. 4) If subject is around for more than a sec, I start thinking of optimizing that picture: I change focus point to make a better composition in frame. I change aperture and shutter time, dependent of action of subject, size of subject (depth of field, DOF) and background. I change exposure compensation. I use 10 frames/s and usually take a few bursts. Even with many exposure there is almost always one or a few that is better than other because of the subjects facial expression, eyes etc. 5) Change camera with different lens, to have another perspective. I more and more work to include more habitat, which means shorter lenses. 6) Start changing my position to get better or new angles, backgrounds etc. 7) I sometimes take several pictures in a panoramic fashion with intention to stich them in post. 8) I sometimes use bracketing on landscape photography, like 5 exposures with 0,7 exp steps. I think that is it. Developing in post is a much larger knowledge area. Obviously it reflects on how you take a picture, but that could not be covered here. Once again, I guess my only active question is about the focus following setting. But i´m interested in any reflection and discussion on this topic.
  5. For those of you who may be considering a new DSLR and are baffled by the differences between the full frame and crop frame sensor formats, this article from is very enlightening. Nikon D500 vs Nikon D750: Which DSLR should you choose?
  6. I had a very unusual problem with my D7100 on our recent trip – every time I turned the camera on, either through the “On/Off” switch or by touching the shutter button then Musekese’s radio would crackle. To save the battery, Nikon’s default is for the metering etc to shutdown after ~5 or so seconds inactivity, being reactivated by a half-press on the shutter button. This half-press also brings in the auto-focus and, I assume, the image stabilising. This interference occurred whether we were on foot, in the boat (though this would have been the same type of handset as on foot) and in both vehicles, giving a very noticeable crackle on the radio every time. Short of turning the radio off, there didn’t seem to be any way of stopping the crackle, only mitigating it by turning the volume right down and the interference was present at distances from the handset of upto ~3m (I didn’t extensively test this). No-one else’s equipment seemed to trigger this, Phil has a D300, one guest had a D7200 (ie slightly updated version of mine) and another a D600 – none had this problem. Has anyone come across this before & any suggestions for things I could try before contacting Nikon? The wireless mobile adapter setting was off.
  7. Given Olympus withdrew from the dSLR market last year. I'm now looking to fill the hole in my bag that my aging Olympus e-3 and the 150mm F2 prime (300mm in 35mm terms) that I rent are going to leave. I'm looking for a mid range tele (again around 300mm) on a budget which will get me started on another system. I will be keeping a Olympus EM-1 and my beloved 50-200mm f2.8/3.5 lens with 1.4 TC which will give me just under 600mm reach (it's a 2x crop sensor). Plus a handful of shorter primes, it's an ideal travel camera but the AF isn't great for action, which is why I'm looking elsewhere. I have around £2000 to £2500 to spend and about 2.5kg to spare in my carry on allowance. I'm looking at what's currently on the market. I would sooner spend more on the lens than the body (but may rent in the short term). Here's my short list. Cropped sensors with 70-200mm F2.8 or 70-200mm F4 Nikon D7100 Canon 70D Canon 7D Mk II (out of my price range if I want to buy a decent lens) Fullframe with 300mm F4 (f2.8 is too heavy and out of my budget). Nikon D750 Canon 5D Mk III (out of my price range if I want to buy a decent lens) I'm not interested in the Canon 6D or Nikon D610 I have researched both cameras in the past they didn't appeal. Also the Nikon D810 has too many pixels for my needs. Cameras are overpriced here in the UK, I'm comfortable to look at the 2nd hand and grey import markets. Instead of buying new I'm thinking that maybe a slightly older camera but higher up the range (Canon 1D, Nikon D3) could be a solution and there must be some great lenses out there that are no longer on the market. Camera requirements for me are (in rough order) Fast AF and C-AF (even in poor light) High frame rate (>5 fps) Light (less that 2.5kg for camera and lens) Good low light performance (Acceptable RAW files at ISO1600) More than 12 Megapixels Large viewfinder, ideally 100% Weather and dust sealing (I can run the e-3 under a tap to clean it) Articulated screen (nice to have for studio/macro work). Lens requirements F4 or Brighter at 300mm Sharp wide open light, ideally < 1.5kg Not too worried about IS/VR, you tend to switch it off for action anyway. So does anyone have any suggestions outside of my shortlists above? Especially with the older gear.
  8. Hey Guys If you looking for an awesome getaway with the family, and you are photographically inclined, then head on over to my website where you will see that I offer both private photographic safaris as well as safaris run in conjuction with Pangolin Photo Safaris who are based in Kasane on the Mighty Chobe River which is a prime wildlife photographic destination. Head on over to my website Or head on over to Pangolin Photo Safaris Website and lets see what we can organise for you Have a great day and enjoy your next trip into Africa.

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