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Found 5 results

  1. I'd first heard stories of an old, abandoned and almost forgotten camp in the Southern section of Hwange National Park whilst on safari in Zimbabwe with @@Safaridude : our guide, Benson Siyawareva shared scant details of a place which was now but a memory, dusty and cobwebbed but that was situated on a migratory pathway for elephants between Botswana and Zimbabwe. I've dreamt since that day of rediscovering this safari relic; as Martin and Osa Johnson had their Lake Paradise in Kenya, so I had a camp in the southern section of Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe. Fast foward a couple of years and I heard through Mark Butcher, director of Imvelo Safari Lodges that he had taken over the lease of a long abandoned safari camp, Jozibanini and was in the process of developing a rustic, adventure style camp in an area of the park long devoid of safari tourists: of course, my attention roused, could this be the fabled place of which Benson had told me? It was imperative I found out more so I set about putting my questions to Mark in the following interview... -------------------------------------- Why is the Southern sector of Hwange underdeveloped in tourism terms? The southern sector of Hwange is underdeveloped full stop. Both by tourism and all park development, and this is a factor of geography and history. Firstly, just getting to Jozibanini which is a jump off point for the far south, is a long days drive from Main Camp, when you consider it is less than 150 km this gives you an idea about the roads ... long sections of very deep sand often low range 4 WD stuff. Also historically some of the older park plans set aside the southern wilderness areas not to be developed at all, so tourism was not encouraged there. Its viability was always going to be marginal. How does this area differ in terms of wildlife densities, flora and topography in comparison to other areas of Hwange, especially the more oft visited and popular areas? Wildlife densities in wet season are very similar to large parts of the rest of Hwange ... "this is where the elephant go in the wet season", dry season prior to us re-establishing pumped water wildlife densities were very low, in the1980's and '90's when it was being pumped I personally remember Jozibanini as 'being one of the waterholes where there were the most elephant in the dry season'. Flora and topography - very unique - two distinct and unique types down there: Jozibanini Fossil Sand Dunes. Firstly the fossil sand dunes are particularly well developed here, deep sand with teak forest on the fossil dunes and then Mopani / Leadwood combretum in the inter dune troughs with ephemeral wet season pans strung along them. Secondly the Dzivanini mud flats / basalt / mopani woodlands - some of the best Mopane woodlands in Hwange What are the seasonal differences in terms of wildlife behaviour, movement? What do you consider the best time to visit Jozibanini and why? Wet season here is a great opportunity to see Hwange's elephant enjoying their paradise... However as the dry season starts so game viewing becomes easier as wildlife concentrates around a smaller number of ephemeral waterholes and the pumped water. Best time to visit Jozi depends on what you're looking for ... if it's the intense large numbers of elephant/other wildlife concentrated experience as per my blog, (following the interview), then from late July onwards perhaps to Aug/ Sept ... if it's the green 'wet season paradise' stuff then I would go for a April /May ... if its the intense life and death drama of animals struggling for survival then it's Oct/ Nov ... they're all different but they're all good. Full moon is awesome because you can gaze out over the Jozi pan thronged with elephant at night, but moonless nights are staggering for their stars and the star beds on the decks of the Jozi tents are a major bonus. What are predator numbers believed to be and has there been any research conducted in this area of the park in recent years? Predator numbers are low because prey numbers are low because the game water supply system collapsed during the 2000's - interestingly Hwange Lion Research did a big spoor transect exercise thru the area a couple years back and discovered lower Lion densities but higher Leopard densities than other parts of the Park - and last year we sighted on a couple of different occasions a pack of over 20 plus Wild dog unknown to Painted Dog Conservation project, ... so interesting stuff. How many pumped pans/waterpoints were originally in the area, and in what state were they when you first conducted site inspections? How important is it to renovate existing waterpoints/establish new ones? The area, (?), depends where you draw the line ... when we got busy here during the '2013 poisonings' we found all the pumps and engines west and south of Mpisi hadn't been pumped for over 10 years - this included Makona, Jozibanini, Basha and Mitswiri as well as several others abandoned when they collapsed in the early 2000's e.g. Little Mitswiri. One of the biggest revelations I had was in 2012 with a film crew working in Hwange asked me to show them what Hwange would be like if we closed off the pumped water. I said I would take them to Jozi where the pumps had not pumped for more than 10 years and they could expect to see no animals and a dry dust bowl. However, when we arrived there in Oct 2012 we did indeed find a dust bowl but much to my surprise, also several herds of elephants... Jozibanini Borehole, not working for about 10 years: the elephants remembered... Those poor old matriarchs were leading their exhausted herds over 30 km from the nearest pumped water to where they remembered water used to be pumped desperately hoping to find the pumps back up and running. Is it important to renovate those old holes? Personally I believe we have a moral obligation to do it, because we built up a huge population of wildlife around those old waterholes and to just turn them off is wrong. The second reason is that leaving them turned off leaves a vacuum in that part of the park filled by poachers and under the threat of an invasion by the cattle herding residents of Tsholothso Tribal area, as is what happened during 2012 and 2013 - by re-establishing water we re-establish wildlife and make tourism possible, which fills that vacuum with a more desirable land use. The other factor that was pronounced during the '2013 poisonings' was that the law enforcement response had no place to obtain drinking water, so their patrols and their presence was limited. By simply re-establishing the water at Makona and Jozibanini in 2014 we have enabled a permanent law enforcement presence in this part of the park. Establishing new ones? A very important question ... today we recognise that the establishment of the artificial water supply system in Hwange was in hindsight perhaps not well thought out, however it is a fact and now we have a massive wildlife population, tourism industry and neighbouring communities all dependant on it continuing, so we can't turn it off - but we probably shouldn't be expanding it, the thinking as elucidated during the recent Park planning process with Ian Games and AWF was that it was okay to continue pumping at existing waterholes as the vegetation around them was pretty much just a sacrifice area anyway, and any 'new holes' would only be allowed at these sites i.e., new holes at previously unpumped water holes is not encouraged/not allowed. What is the history of the Jozibanini site? Why did you choose to develop a camp here? How much infrastructure existed and what were your first impressions upon initial site inspections and how did you envisage the new camp developing? Jozibanini was originally established as a Ranger station around 1972, and that Ranger station was built by then Senior Ranger Charlie Mackie, (at present sadly very sick), as a base from which this huge portion of the park could be managed and looked after. In the late 1990's a lease was set up to establish a tourism camp here that just got going in time for the tourism crash in 2000, the camp was abandoned and the lease was defaulted. A few years later the Ranger station was also abandoned and that whole portion of the Park pretty much left to its own devices. The worst story from that era was the pump attendants at Basha waterhole were literally forgotten and they finally, after being without resupply for several months, were attacked by elephants at night in their tin hut, from which they somehow managed to escape and walked thirsty and half starved to Makona. Pump attendants accomodation, Basha waterhole. In the wake of all this abandonment, poaching into the southern part became intense, mostly through the use of wire snares cut from the EU sponsored veterinary FMD control fence along the boundary, many many tons of wire was turned into wire snares and the wildlife with limited water was decimated. In the drought of 2012 this culminated in the biggest natural die off of Elephant we had ever seen, that resulted in plenty of 'dead' ivory available for pick up by poachers roaming in this part of the park, they then figured out how to sell ivory locally, (back doors of Chinese mines and businesses). In 2013 there was better rainfall and so no 'natural' mortality, so poachers who had now figured out how to sell ivory then figured out how to kill elephant using cyanide pellets stolen from gold mines in Southern Matabeleland. The '2013 poisonings' were not one incident but a number of incidents perpetrated by several gangs over several months, in the southern area of Hwange about 130 elephants were killed, (not the 300 claimed by some, many of those counted were dead from the previous year's drought). Fortunately the law enforcement response was strong and surprisingly usually tight lipped community members shocked by the horror of the poison did divulge information and a number of the individuals responsible were arrested and many were identified but fled the country. In the aftermath we approached the Warden, (now called Area manager), at Main Camp and we suggested to him that to prevent a re-occurrence of the poaching, the ranger station at Jozibanini needed to be re-opened, he said that in the absence of funds it would be impossible so why didn't we try to resuscitate the old tourism camp lease to establish a presence there, we contacted the owner of that lease purchased it and also agreed to assist Parks in the establishment of a new ranger station nearby at Makona. Which has happened Makona Ranger station and staff, May 2016. What was the planning brief for the new camp? The old abandoned and pretty ruined camp built in the late 1990's we decided was not worth fixing up and its style, (thatched rondavel type chalets), was not really in keeping with what we wanted to do, so we decided initially to set up a basic tented adventure type camp, that we will build on as demand grows. One of the biggest tasks initially was to drag a huge drilling rig in there to redrill the old wells, part of that required a massive 6 wheel drive truck so we opted, since we were taking that in, to load it with a 'Look Up Blind', our 20 foot steel shipping containers that we bury to ground level and equip with running water and loo. The Jozi 'Look up' provided us with some very intense 'Elephant TV' during last year's dry season. The Look Up hide, in place, and providing intimate sightings How important is the development of Jozibanini for the southern sector, the wildlife and local communities? How will the latter be involved in the new camp and receive the benefits increased tourism brings? The development and success of Jozi is absolutely critical to the southern part of Hwange, without our presence there, there is nothing ... so the cockroaches come out to play again. All staff are hired from local community and those with poaching on their CV are preferred. One of my hopes for the future is that the original inhabitants of this part of the park were the few families of San that Davison found when he came to work, most of their descendants live now in two villages at Gibi Xegu and Makulela, and are very much disenfranchised and forgotten. As more staff are required as the project grows we're looking to hiring as many of their young people as we can afford, to get them back into their park and give them useful employment. I'm looking forward to having some of those bright eyed keen young San men out front on our walking and biking trails. Work with nearby schools has already started, we've used some of our philanthropy money to build a class room block and 2 teachers houses at Sihazela School and I'm looking forward to taking our Dentists down there, if not this year then next How will you market Jozibanini and how will it compliment the Imvelo portfolio? To which type of guest would the camp be best suited? Jozi right now works well as a 2 or 3 night "Adventure Add on" to an existing Hwange or Imvelo trip. For example, if someone is interested in a 3 nights Camelthorn and 3 nights Nehimba package then they can look at a 2 night adventure add on to Jozi: An all day safari through the park with picnic lunch, ending in the late afternoon for sundowners at Jozi, an activity we call the pump run! then a couple of nights there before either returning to Camelthorn or Bomani or carrying on to Nehimba. I have said that it is probably best suited for experienced safari goers looking for something different, but having said that 2 of our groups last year were first timers and loved it. When they got back to Camelthorn, they were bragging to the other guests around the dinner table how they'd been off roughing it with bucket showers and star beds. How many guests can the camp accomodate and what are the tented facilities comprised of - how is the camp set up? How are game drives scheduled? Will there be the use of private vehicles if required by guests? Right now we have 3 tents each set up for 2 guests so for now maximum of 6, though if we get the bookings very easy to add more tents as time goes on Each tent comprises: a 12 sq m bedroom area, an en suite bath room comprising bucket shower, flush loo and running cold water only hand basin a 12 sq m front deck for star beds So far we have only had one group at a time so each group has a dedicated full pro guide and so activities decided day by day as discussed and planned with guests - game drives, game walks and combination, bike rides, Look Up blind, all day drive etc Another interesting aside is that Mike Ross ex Zimbo and founder of Mike Ross Travel in the UK who passed away tragically last year, we took him to Jozi in 2014 to help kind of figure out what the hell could be done with it and he came up with a number of good ideas and assisted greatly in conceptualising it - we named one of the tents 'Mike's Tent' in his memory - it was actually built on the spot under an Acacia tree where he had slept on a bed roll during his visit. Mark adds his thoughts in the following blog post which he's given me permission to publish... Sunset at Jozi... Images courtesy and copyright Mark Butcher, One can also read @@Soukous's interview with Mark, here, and his article about Hwange's elephant dilemma here. The views expressed therein are solely those of the interviewee and do not necessarily reflect those of Safaritalk.
  2. On my recent visit to Hwange I stayed in both Bomani Tented Lodge and Camelthorn Lodge. Although both are part of the Imvelo safari lodges portfolio, they could not be more different. Both camps are constructed on community land close to Hwange's Ngamo gate, in the south east corner of the park. Where Bomani is a tented lodge that sits looking out onto open plains, Cameltorn is a much more substantial, stone built affair nestled in a forest of acacia trees. Bomani Tented Lodge Spurwing tents at Bomani Bomani has 9 guest rooms and 1 family room. The guest rooms come in 2 different styles: The earlier Hornbill tents are raised off the ground on stilts and have solid wood floorboards whilst the newer Spurwing tents are set on concrete bases at ground level. All the guest rooms have views out over the plains and both styles have their champions. Whilst the Spurwing tents look out onto the camp waterhole, the Hornbills, being elevated, give a better all around view of the surrounding plains and do enjoy slightly better ventilation. Guests who might be nervous at having just a sheet of canvas between them and wildlife will appreciate the elevated Hornbill rooms. There is a large central building which contains the dining room, bar and lounge. Camelthorn Lodge Camelthorn has 8 guest rooms, all of which are stone built and referred to as Forest Villas. Something for my Children The reason for Camelthorn's sturdy construction is because when the local chief was approached for permission to build the lodge he said he would agree as long as it was something that would stand the test of time so that his children and his children's children could see it. Although it's location denies Camelthorn guests the same kind of views as those enjoyed at Bomani it does have some distinct advantages. At the hottest times of the year the surrounding forest provides shade that keeps the lodge cool and in winter, when sleeping in a tent can be pretty cold, the solid Camelthorn rooms each have their own fireplace to keep guests cosy and warm. Great Food On balance I would say that the food at Camelthorn is of a higher standard than that at Bomani. The food at Bomani is plentiful and excellent but at Camethorn it more closely resembles fine dining. Both lodges draw their staff – as much as possible - from the local community and Imvelo's ties to the local community are very strong indeed. A Tough Choice I've stayed at both lodges and would be more than happy to stay at either of them again. Choosing between them depends entirely on what your own individual priorities are. They both traverse the same part of Hwange and so the game drives are generally excellent with the ubiquitous elephants augmented by regular sightings of lions, cheetahs, buffaloes, zebras, elands, sable antelope. For me, the biggest draw card at Bomani is its location and the fact that when you are not on game drives the waterhole provides constant activity. The single biggest draw at Camelthorn, for me at least, is the head guide Sibs. Sibahle Sibanda, to give him his full name, is quite simply one of the most exceptional guides I have ever had the pleasure of working with. That is not to diminish in any way the other fine guides working at Camelthorn and Bomani – we’ve never had a bad review about any of them – Zimbabwean guides have a reputation for being amongst the best in Africa and Imvelo have a reputation for attracting the best of them. Please remember that these are just my opinions and, as such, they are subjective. The Elephant Express Those of you that have visited Hwange will be familiar with the drive out from Victoria Falls. To reach the turn-off for Main Camp and properties like The Hide takes about 2 hours. To reach Bomani and Camelthorn takes longer. It's about 2 hours to Halfway House where guests would swap their road car for a game vehicle and embark on a drive through the community land that takes just under 2 hours. It is the sort of journey you don't want to do twice in 1 safari and so many people opt to drive in and fly out – There is an airstrip about 300 metres from Bomani. Now there is another way - The Elephant Express Because the main Victoria Falls – Bulawayo railway line runs along the park boundary and right through Ngamo, Imvelo have built their own railway tram to bring guests to their lodges. Now, instead of the long drive guests will only drive as far as Impofu Siding, just beside Main Camp. There they board the Elephant Express for the journey to the lodge. It has literally transformed a rather tedious drive into an enjoyable game viewing ride, complete with refreshments. It really does add an extra dimension to the safari. So much so that a ride on the Elephant Express between Ngamo and Impofu is now being offered as an alternative activity to a game drive if the schedule allows.
  3. Community led Conservation – the only way forward You only have to spend a few minutes in his company to see that Mark Butcher (Butch) is a man on a mission. That mission, in broad terms, is to ensure the survival of Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park and its wildlife. Butch knows he cannot do it alone; to have any chance of success he needs to get the local communities that border the park to buy in to the idea that their own future and the park's future are inextricably intertwined. The reason is simple: if the people living on the park's periphery are supportive and willing to work with the park, they can provide a valuable and vital barrier between the park and the surrounding countryside. If, as is too often the case, they see the park and its wildlife as the enemy, they can provide a very easy route in and out of the park for poachers. The reality of this was demonstrated only too vividly by the recent poaching of Cecil, one of Hwange's best known lions who was enticed out of the park into an adjacent unprotected area and then killed. There is no overnight success, Butch knows that the road ahead is a long one but the groundwork has been laid. Butch's company, Imvelo Safari Lodges, currently has 3 lodges in Hwange NP and 2 are built on community land close the park's eastern Ngamo gate. To get the consent from the community leadership meant overcoming the villagers' natural antipathy to the wildlife that regularly took their livestock and the park authorities that protected it. Indeed whilst we were in Ngamo village Johnson, the headman, told us that two of his donkeys had been killed by lions just days earlier. A significant measure of the progress that Butch has achieved was hearing from the headman that despite lamenting the loss of his donkeys to lions no-one from the village was sent out to track down and kill the lions responsible as would have been the case in days gone by. Johnson understands that the benefits that tourism can bring his community far outweigh the occasional loss of livestock and as we sat and chatted to Johnson the high regard in which he holds Butch was very evident. The land around Ngamo village is not great farmland and, like the park itself, has no permanent water. In a country where unemployment is very high, the lodges provide both employment and training. Employment means a far more reliable source of money to buy food and other essentials, than could be gained from farming. There is no doubt in Johnson's mind that tourism represents the way forward for his community. One of his own sons, Vusa, is now working as a trainee guide with Imvelo and is a terrific role model for other youngsters in the village. Improving the quality of life Imvelo's commitment to Ngamo is about much more than simply providing employment. Pumps have been installed to provide a clean water supply; vital for the health of any community. A new pump at Ngamo school Imvelo's annual 'Mobile Dentist Safari' welcomes a team of dentists from Europe who give their time to provide dental care for the communities; performing in excess of 1500 procedures in the space of a week; many of them on people who have never seen a dentist before in their lives. Mobile dentistry Education, Education, Education But the cornerstone of Imvelo's community work is providing education for the village's children. Education that will set them on the path for a better future. Using their own money, augmented by philanthropic donations, they have overseen the construction of primary schools in Ngamo and other communities. Decrepit buildings have been replaced by custom built classrooms and purpose built accommodation for teachers. Classrooms, old and new teacher accommodation, old a new The enthusiasm shown by the children for attending school – many of them walking several miles each day - is testament to the value of this project. Schoolchildren at Ngamo Ngamo classroom It doesn't end there. Faced with the issue of where to educate the children after they finish primary school, work on a secondary school for Ngamo is nearing completion. A natural barrier Butch's vision is to have a string of lodges along the park boundary with lodge staff drawn from the local communities. In return the villagers play their part in protecting the park's wildlife by acting as a barrier against infiltration by poachers. If this model can be replicated all around the park's boundary it will be a huge step towards safeguarding the future of this iconic Zimbabwean park. Mark 'Butch' Butcher Butch’s wildlife career started in 1979, when he became a ranger for the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Management. He completed a BSc in Zoology and Botany at Rhodes University, before moving on to work for Zimbabwe’s Forestry Commission. As Provincial Wildlife Officer, Butch was responsible for all the wildlife that roamed within 1.8-million acres of indigenous forest. Whilst undertaking this enormous task, he quickly discovered how essential the local people’s support was to the wellbeing of the estate. Butch began to develop programs that would both engage the people and benefit the natural ecosystems. He finally left the Commission to develop these initiatives from the other side of the fence. Butch’s lifelong passion for Hwange – it’s elephants, wildlife and communities – formed the cornerstone for Imvelo Safari Lodges to grow into what it is today. See it for yourself All guests staying at either Bomani Tented Lodge or Camelthorn Lodge for 2 nights or more have the opportunity to visit Ngamo community and school during their stay. Trust me, it is not like other village visits.
  4. For those of you who are already thinking about where visit in 2016 ... If you haven't been to Zimbabwe then this is a great introduction at a terrific price Victoria Falls, Hwange NP and the mighty Zambezi Fabulous lodges, amazing wildlife, incredible value Combining the awe inspiring Victoria Falls with Zimbabwe’s largest game park, Hwange NP, and ending with 2 nights on the banks of the Zambezi river, this diverse 10 (or 12) day itinerary travels at a leisurely pace and allows you plenty of time to enjoy Hwange’s fabulous wildlife. Outline itinerary: 9 nights / 10 days Day 1 Arrive Victoria Falls, transfer to Gorges Lodge. Day 2 Morning to visit the falls before transferring to Bomani Tented Lodge in Hwange NP. Day 3 Bomani Tented Lodge. Day 4 Bomani Tented Lodge. Day 5 Game drive through the park to Nehimba Lodge, located in the centre of the park. Day 6 Nehimba Lodge. Day 7 Nehimba Lodge. Day 8 Leave Hwange NP and transfer to Zambezi Sands Lodge on the banks of the Zambezi river where you can enjoy canoeing on the river, games drives or game walks. Day 9 Zambezi Sands. Day 10 A leisurely start before transferring to Victoria Falls airport for your onward connection. US$£3,320 GB£2,215
  5. Imvelo Safari Lodges acquire Nehimba Lodge This looks like being great news. Nehimba was already a highly rated lodge and Imvelo have a great reputation. A welcome addition to their portfolio.

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