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If Michael was late to this awesome trip report, how about me?! By preparing for the upcoming visits to Namibia and Botswana, both self-driving events, I am scouring through Safaritalk to put myself "into the groove". And boy, your trip report did the job! And photography?! Just awesome! 

I thought I might chip in on the subject of Panama.  My wife and I visited the country ten years ago.  We divided our activities between freshwater fly fishing and ecotourism, the latter in a rainforest lodge just below the Costa Rican border.  We chose Panama because we thought it would provide cheaper but otherwise similar experiences to those available in Costa Rica.  While I might have selected badly with my Panama destinations, I have to say that I would rank it among the worst of my overseas experiences - the only bonus being plenty of sloths.  I'm obviously a slow learner because I have repeated my mistakes and, in the last two years, have attempted to combine fishing with wildlife in two other countries - Belize and Guinea Bissau.  If one goes anywhere as a generalist with no huge knowledge of birding, one needs specialist guiding and, in rainforest areas, it seems that you'll need scopes just to see let alone photograph birds unless you go to places that put out feeders or provide specialist hides.    

I've also been told good things about Panama. It is quite high on the list.

@wilddog sure, I absolutely agree with you. Mana Pools is also quite an open space, the animals can see you far away and if they don't feel comfortable they move away. I never take somthing for granted. Especially, the possibility to be in the bush. Actually, we cannot take for granted our lives, too. And this is a priveledge to see the wildlife. I think, this is why I am trying to make good photos and videos of wildlife and trying always to learn and develope myself in this topic.   Tja.. in Botswana I would not leave the car if it is not necessary.  I remember, in Kwara I left the car to mark my territory as I saw after a few minutes s guide and my partner gesticulating me something from the car.. and yelling. I rashed back. A big male lion was about 100-200 metres from me. And as I was leaving the car nobody saw him! Even not a guide.  So, no low level photos in Bots

@ElenaHThe reason you can get out of your car in Mana Pools is that the park has always had walkers as, for Zimabaweans, it is like going to their 'back garden'.  Walking has been going on 'for ever' there and the animals are accustomed to seeing people on foot. hence the few 'roads'   In most other safari areas  getting out of the vehicle would cause alarm to the animals and quite possibly provoke an attack. Walking is not without risk, which is why many use a Zim guide to walk with them to ensure they don't bump into an unseen roaming hippo, pride of lions or a defensive elephant. A guide is also recommended in the park rules.   Over the years I have had some amazing times on foot there, as have others.  Never take this paradise,  or it's animals, for granted.

I agree with @madaboutcheetahbut the problem is that you normally don't leave your car in Botswana. Why normally? In some private concessions with some guides you can leave vehicle and make pictures from a low perspective. But it is only in some cases. In Mana Pools you can do it always. So, the perspective does matter.   For the lodges it depends on the time you go there. If it is mid of Septmber and later than you can stay near the flood plains becasue it looks like the dogs like to hunt there when having puppies who are following. Other than that I would recommend the tour operators who are geting up early like Stretch Ferera Safaris or Robin Pope Safaris. They were always the first ones on the way (an hour or more earlier than the others).   Or you look for specific photographic safaris. They are quite expensive but get in touch with Carole Duschuymere  https://caroledeschuymere.com/ in Facebook or in Instagram. I think, she makes the most afordable photographic safaris and they will get dog for 100%. Carol stays with her group in Mwinilunga Safaris camp. The camp is quite basic (not luxury but very good) and it reduces the price.    Nyamatusi is intersting because they are close to Nyamatusi area and can drive there as the first in the morning. And in this area are very few vehicles. The camp belongs to African Bush Camps operator and I would combine it with Kanga Camp wich is in a different area or with Zambezi Expeditions which is closer to flood plains and get a discount for more nights with the same company.   The other very good choice is Nature Ways. They set up a mobile camp and have excellent locations -  one of which is flood plains and the other between Nyamepi and Mana Mouth. They also do safari in Chitake Springs. I think, it is the only operator who provides safaris in Chitake. You can also see a tour with Africa Geographic Travel here  but I think, they make it with Nature Ways as well. I think, the price is quite ok. But you can check also Nature Ways. Some of our SafariTalk members made the tour with them. Yes, it is 700$ per night. But if you think, how we did it - we paid 300$ per night per sight plus about 150$ per night for the car with full insurace plus food and fuel. Well it is for two or more persons. But you need to work hard! Pitch your tent, cook the meal, wash the dishes, make a shower, dig the toilet... and it is all by +38 or more ;-)  So, self-driving gives you a lot of freedom and flexibility but also a lot of work and responsibility.

The UK couple we were talking to when caught in the rain at Arenal Observatory were in agreement about prices in CR and he suggested Panama too. Not as commercialised and the birding just as good in his opinion.

What a wonderful adventure for you @Hads and your family. Great memories made and dogs to reward you after a tough day of travel.    Great report so far and lovely photos too! Looking foward to the rest.

Very interesting report Fred and an enjoyable read. I'm afraid I don't share your love of seeing Elephants, they make me very nervous and I prefer them at a fair distance and in open ground. It's scary driving through the bush when you know there is a herd grazing and they can appear out of nowhere. I certainly don't want to hang around if one is heading my direction!

Might I recommend, Botswana !!! for those dogs ......

One word description:   WOW.

The colors of the hummingbirds and frogs are resplendent too.  Great Fer-de-lance shot.

Of all the amazing sightings, I think the Hedgehog is my favorite!    

Fantastic.   Thank you VERY much for this trip report @ricmiles I am just discovering it - somehow I missed it till now.     Ndutu is on my bucket list and seems to stay "one or two trips out" for some reason.   TRs like yours tap me on the shoulder and say "get thee to Ndutu".  

Really good stuff @Whyone?- the Giant Owl Butterfly is amazing and the Fer-de-Lance must have been a real treat to see!   And Resplendent Quetzals and Poison Dart Frogs are on many a bucket list (mine included).