Forums

@Whyone?That stop looks very interesting indeed!   I think I have opened a debate here on costs and what is defined as expensive, maybe I should have referred to things as 'value for money".!  My overall appraisal of Costa Rica was maybe not offering value for money in some areas, particularly the cost of food and eating out because the quality didn't match the price. We stayed in a B&B for two nights Lancashire over Easter and for a similar price to a cabin in Costa Rica we had a very comfortable and well appointed room and a superb and filling breakfast offering. They even left a help yourself decanter of sherry to set you up before going out for dinner or as a nightcap when you got in. I was happy with that!

Hard to say. He is quite busy but will usually oblige you. Why not ask him for suggestions? You have not been far in Uganda. Murchison and Kideopo perhaps would make a nice trip.   This is how it should be if you are uncomfortable (as opposed to bloody stupid as were those Tourons.)  I would never take any of  my companions out of their comfort zone or mock them. Ellies can be quite frightening, it is their best defence, but give them every respect and it can be very rewarding. Here is an old photo showing the missus being introduced to the other Galana, or is it the other way around?   Pleased you all enjoyed the Report.

That sounds very interesting! I look forward to reading about it   

looking forward to this @Hads as we are thinking of a mobile trip to Botswana- but i don't know why i had the idea you were a sensible person!!!!!

For our recent trip, we travelled as a group of 4 (2 couples) which perhaps helped with costs and logistics?   I am happy to self-drive as I prefer the freedom this affords, and most of our accommodation where private home rentals.    Perhaps the most interesting of these - it was certainly a dive into the unknown for us - was a property close to the mouth of the Sierpe estuary which was accessed only by boat.    We planned our trip so we had a 4x4 rental vehicle for the first 12 days, and then handed this back (slightly alarmingly just passing the keys of a brand new Toyota Fortuner to a chap who claimed to be from Alamo in a bar in Sierpe!!!) and relied on boats / car transfers and 'planes for the remaining 10 days.  The house in the Sierpe estuary came with a boat and a boat man / guide - included in the price and was ours to use as and when we wished.  Obviously we needed to source and carry all our supplies to the house as there would be no 'popping to the shops for a pint of milk'!  We minimised what we needed to take with us (largely breakfast stuff. fruit, beer and wine!!!) because there was an option to have a local lady come in each afternoon and cook us a (full 3 course) dinner for ~$12 per person.  She was spectacularly good - great company and a wonderful chef (professionally trained).   'Our' chef   Access to our own boat / guide 24/7 and a dinner cooked every evening for what I consider an extremely reasonable cost I believe shows that there are still interesting and affordable options in Costa Rica.     I'll post more information / pictures in my trip report over the coming days.

If Michael was late to this awesome trip report, how about me?! By preparing for the upcoming visits to Namibia and Botswana, both self-driving events, I am scouring through Safaritalk to put myself "into the groove". And boy, your trip report did the job! And photography?! Just awesome! 

I thought I might chip in on the subject of Panama.  My wife and I visited the country ten years ago.  We divided our activities between freshwater fly fishing and ecotourism, the latter in a rainforest lodge just below the Costa Rican border.  We chose Panama because we thought it would provide cheaper but otherwise similar experiences to those available in Costa Rica.  While I might have selected badly with my Panama destinations, I have to say that I would rank it among the worst of my overseas experiences - the only bonus being plenty of sloths.  I'm obviously a slow learner because I have repeated my mistakes and, in the last two years, have attempted to combine fishing with wildlife in two other countries - Belize and Guinea Bissau.  If one goes anywhere as a generalist with no huge knowledge of birding, one needs specialist guiding and, in rainforest areas, it seems that you'll need scopes just to see let alone photograph birds unless you go to places that put out feeders or provide specialist hides.    

I've also been told good things about Panama. It is quite high on the list.

@wilddog sure, I absolutely agree with you. Mana Pools is also quite an open space, the animals can see you far away and if they don't feel comfortable they move away. I never take somthing for granted. Especially, the possibility to be in the bush. Actually, we cannot take for granted our lives, too. And this is a priveledge to see the wildlife. I think, this is why I am trying to make good photos and videos of wildlife and trying always to learn and develope myself in this topic.   Tja.. in Botswana I would not leave the car if it is not necessary.  I remember, in Kwara I left the car to mark my territory as I saw after a few minutes s guide and my partner gesticulating me something from the car.. and yelling. I rashed back. A big male lion was about 100-200 metres from me. And as I was leaving the car nobody saw him! Even not a guide.  So, no low level photos in Bots

@ElenaHThe reason you can get out of your car in Mana Pools is that the park has always had walkers as, for Zimabaweans, it is like going to their 'back garden'.  Walking has been going on 'for ever' there and the animals are accustomed to seeing people on foot. hence the few 'roads'   In most other safari areas  getting out of the vehicle would cause alarm to the animals and quite possibly provoke an attack. Walking is not without risk, which is why many use a Zim guide to walk with them to ensure they don't bump into an unseen roaming hippo, pride of lions or a defensive elephant. A guide is also recommended in the park rules.   Over the years I have had some amazing times on foot there, as have others.  Never take this paradise,  or it's animals, for granted.

I agree with @madaboutcheetahbut the problem is that you normally don't leave your car in Botswana. Why normally? In some private concessions with some guides you can leave vehicle and make pictures from a low perspective. But it is only in some cases. In Mana Pools you can do it always. So, the perspective does matter.   For the lodges it depends on the time you go there. If it is mid of Septmber and later than you can stay near the flood plains becasue it looks like the dogs like to hunt there when having puppies who are following. Other than that I would recommend the tour operators who are geting up early like Stretch Ferera Safaris or Robin Pope Safaris. They were always the first ones on the way (an hour or more earlier than the others).   Or you look for specific photographic safaris. They are quite expensive but get in touch with Carole Duschuymere  https://caroledeschuymere.com/ in Facebook or in Instagram. I think, she makes the most afordable photographic safaris and they will get dog for 100%. Carol stays with her group in Mwinilunga Safaris camp. The camp is quite basic (not luxury but very good) and it reduces the price.    Nyamatusi is intersting because they are close to Nyamatusi area and can drive there as the first in the morning. And in this area are very few vehicles. The camp belongs to African Bush Camps operator and I would combine it with Kanga Camp wich is in a different area or with Zambezi Expeditions which is closer to flood plains and get a discount for more nights with the same company.   The other very good choice is Nature Ways. They set up a mobile camp and have excellent locations -  one of which is flood plains and the other between Nyamepi and Mana Mouth. They also do safari in Chitake Springs. I think, it is the only operator who provides safaris in Chitake. You can also see a tour with Africa Geographic Travel here  but I think, they make it with Nature Ways as well. I think, the price is quite ok. But you can check also Nature Ways. Some of our SafariTalk members made the tour with them. Yes, it is 700$ per night. But if you think, how we did it - we paid 300$ per night per sight plus about 150$ per night for the car with full insurace plus food and fuel. Well it is for two or more persons. But you need to work hard! Pitch your tent, cook the meal, wash the dishes, make a shower, dig the toilet... and it is all by +38 or more ;-)  So, self-driving gives you a lot of freedom and flexibility but also a lot of work and responsibility.

The UK couple we were talking to when caught in the rain at Arenal Observatory were in agreement about prices in CR and he suggested Panama too. Not as commercialised and the birding just as good in his opinion.

What a wonderful adventure for you @Hads and your family. Great memories made and dogs to reward you after a tough day of travel.    Great report so far and lovely photos too! Looking foward to the rest.

Very interesting report Fred and an enjoyable read. I'm afraid I don't share your love of seeing Elephants, they make me very nervous and I prefer them at a fair distance and in open ground. It's scary driving through the bush when you know there is a herd grazing and they can appear out of nowhere. I certainly don't want to hang around if one is heading my direction!

Might I recommend, Botswana !!! for those dogs ......