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As has been reported, at least two super tuskers were legally shot when they crossed over the border into Tanzania in January, a month before our group arrived in Kenya. a few more large or emerging tuskers have been shot since then.    It’s unconscionable that this takes place in 2024 when there are only 25 super tuskers on the African continent. It’s completely heartbreaking, and you can see from my video, Craig is the most gentlemanly, regal and serene of beasts.  There would be absolutely no sport involved in it. He’s a gentle soul. They are easy targets. The only challenge is that there are so few left!   A few things I learned or relearned—-elephants can be left tusked or right tusked or even ambidextrous—favoring one tusk or the other or both.    The Tsavo Trust does amazing work trying to protect this genetically gifted strain of super tuskers in this part of Africa. Most of the super tuskers are related. They break them down into Super Tuskers, Emerging Tuskers (not quite yet in the club but expected to grow into it in their prime) and iconic cows which are female eles that have long tusks but perhaps not the girth weight of the males’ tusks.    In Amboseli I believe we saw two more super tuskers including Tee Jay. He was following and chasing a female that appeared to be playing hard to get or was reluctant 😂        

Wonderful video of a snoozing Tusker!     Thanks for this TR @gatoratlarge

So af this point our group safari concluded and I bid everyone adieu but this is when an unexpected layoff comes in handy (not to worry 😁 I have a new job which is actually my old one but that’s another story) I realized that I had paid leave and therefore an opportunity to extend my stay. How many chances like that do you get in life?  So with only a couple weeks before departure I began brainstorming with @Sangeetaand Chalo on what to do if I had an extra week in Africa.    I thought about the wild dogs in Laikipia or seeking out the black leopard — but going solo it might have been cost prohibitive —I had also been watching many a YouTube video on the last remaining super tuskers and became intrigued. I decided on Amboseli and Tsavo, two parks I’d never visited (the train to Mombasa doesn’t count 😁)  I set aside three days to find Craig, a super tusker that inhabits the Amboseli ecosystem.  Also I  hoped to spend the night on the Ngulia platform to spot rhinos 🦏 in Tsavo West.    It would turn out Ngulia wasn’t open to the public at this time— rumors of a poaching incident.  Whatever the reason, the reserve inside the park was laying low and was off limits even for a day drive.    Chalo Africa was able to get one of their favorite Game Watchers guides  to pick me up at the Nairobi airport for the drive south to Amboseli. The park is rightfully known for its elephants and occasional views of the snow capped peak of Kilimanjaro when it emerges from the clouds.    I was lucky we saw Kili each day I was there and even while in Tsavo West, something I didn’t think possible. But as thrilled as I was about seeing nice views of Kili, I got that sinking feeling about Craig.   There’s no off track driving in Amboseli and roads are few with swamps all around. I could easily imagine a scenario where Craig tucks in a remote spot for several days and we miss him entirely!  Plus he traverses 100 square miles of terrain and the unseasonably early rain had scattered the wildlife, much of it outside the park and in denser bush in neighboring conservancies.    So my guide talked with other guides at the lodge (Serena inside the park) and called his contacts in the area for leads on Craig’s whereabouts. Everyone was quick to emphasize we’d be lucky to see Craig and to enjoy the park and the search. 😬 My guide got a call back from a Masai tracker late the next morning —-Craig had been located and we headed post haste to a conservancy adjacent to Amboseli tingling with excitement!   What transpired was one of the most moving wildlife experiences I’ve ever had: Clearly played around with black and white, but I liked the effect 😊           The Masai tracker said “come, come” and in a flash I was a few meters away from this majestic creature on foot! We were the only ones around with Craig and a young bull Askari — when Craig began to move, I was instructed to move slowly in reverse.   He reached the shade of an acacia tree and began to nap.   We kept the doors open, and listened quietly to the birds, the gentle breathing as Craig napped, leaning at times on one of his massive tusks to prop up his head!  His Askari laid down beside him and also took a nap!  We had our morning tea and watched on in awe for nearly two hours!  

Thank you, very appreciated!

What a lovely trip report! Thank you for shaing! Looks like there is a lion pride around Xini lagoon  We will be driving to Third Bridge in Sepember. It will be different due to the weather but on the other hand predators are territorial so, they can be somwhere arounf Xini. And maybe with cubs! 

Your photos create a great atmosphere and give a real feeling of being there!

Jaipur, a highlight We are chauffeured around by very competent drivers in a nice Toyota SUV and our favorite driver was Raj. On paper, 4-6 hours transfers look pretty good, but in person, it was a little taxing, even though we would have a tea and bathroom break along the way. On the other hand, we got to see rural India and the busy life along the road.   We visit the Monkey Temples located in a gorge with cows and monkeys roaming around and getting fed.             Visiting the bazaar at dusk is very colorful and exotic and makes for nice pictures of local life.       Jaipur is called “the Pink City” for a reason       The Wind Tempel is built in a very unique style and was actually a palace of old and seat of the maharajah.        We visit the Observatory but are a little overwhelmed with information on how it works. Anyway, the ancient sundial shows the exact time as our Apple iPhone!       Amber Fort is a must-visit destination, and we see it lit up at night   and roam around the inside areas in the morning trying to imagine the opulent life of the maharajah and his court.            

@TreepolWelcome and thank you for reading along! Are you planning on visiting India?   @xelasWelcome to you, too! We didn't want to risk our lives and sanity driving ourselves around India! Plus, no self-driving allowed in the parks we visited. We surely missed it, though.   @mtanenbaumI remember you came very close two years back? but isn't it great to have a goal and start planning to get there? 2026 is just around the corner and the time will go by fast, especially when you start planning your trip. Welcome and thanks!

Looking forward to this as well! India is on my list for after I retire, and I am hoping to go in 2026--sounds a long way off!

@Bush dogThank you for posting.  We were at Selinda in 2007.  After seeing your photos I had to look again at my photos of the trip.  Great memories.

That will be an interesting trip report, looking forward to gain a deeper knowledge about the locations on your itinerary.   P.S.: not a self-driving trip?!

Another rave vote for the final tiger. The pose in that 2nd shot by the river is very striking. Says it all. Nice Yellownape.

What a fantastic tiger sighting.

Yes, Hari, it was probably 10 years ago.   I exchanged a few messages with BB in 2018.  He was no longer in Chitabe.  He then worked for Desert & Delta, more precisely in Camp Moremi.

Ah yes, BB ..... A few years ago, I bumped into him in Maun and I think he mentioned he was in Chitabe at that time.  Right now, I don't know however.  This was maybe even 10 years ago!